Step by Step build a 110v portable PID controller

After many requests, I finally have enough time to do a write-up on this.

It is my single element, 110v PID controller that I use on my eBIAB setup.



Credit goes to jkarp because I made mine from his original Countertop Brutus 20 Thread.

Parts needed:

Enclosure:
(1) 6x6x4 WP Box. (I am linking to Amazon for reference, I think they are cheaper at HD, Lowes, etc)

http://www.amazon.com/Carlon-E989N-CAR-Junction-Box/dp/B0037MZW1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1357739799&sr=8-2&keywords=6x6x4+weatherproof+box

Combo Switch/Receptacle and Cover:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-109-05225-WSP-Combo-Switch-Receptacle/dp/B00004YUMX/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1357739869&sr=1-1&keywords=switch+receptacle

2 to 3 feet bulk 12awg wire (hot, neutral, and ground)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G9TNFG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Replacement extension cord end

http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-05984-Replacement-Yellow/dp/B000FPANE8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1357740128&sr=1-1&keywords=replacement+extension+cord+end

Note. You can also simply buy a 12awg cord, and cut it to length. I was able to buy an end and 3' or wire cheaper than a complete cord, that is why I told you of either option.

1/2" Romex connector

http://www.amazon.com/Romex%C2%AE-Connector-1-2-in/dp/B0003S2MEQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1357740244&sr=1-1&keywords=romex+connector

And you will need 2 wire nuts.

From www.auberins.com:

PID Controller SYL-2362

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=106

Solid State Relay MGR-1 D4825

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=9

Heat Sink HS25

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=45

K Type Thermocouple

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_3&products_id=2

That's it. Build pictures continued in next post.

Wiring Diagram:


Enclosure parts:


PID Components:


You'll need to cut out for the receptacle on one side of the box.


You'll drill a hole for the Romex connector and slot the box for both the heatsink and thermocouple wire on the OPPOSITE SIDE of the box from the receptacle.




Everything installed and wired inside

Assembled





In use

Looks good. I like your heat sink mounting idea, pretty clever.

Looks great.

I like the simplicity of it. Too me it keeps in the spirit of BIAB.

Chris

heat sink idea is great. I struggled with that when putting together my setup.

This is the perfect post for me. Exactly what I needed to build exactly what I want exactly when I was putting project together!

I'm not very familiar with this sort of electronics, so this is a really big help!

Thank you very, very much for putting this together!!

I made some pretty similar design choices for my 110v PID, including the exact same box! I wanted an E-stop on mine but it was probably overkill.

alien said:

I made some pretty similar design choices for my 110v PID, including the exact same box! I wanted an E-stop on mine but it was probably overkill.

Click to expand...

You just blew my mind. That is pretty damn cool.

Thanks. If only I had done a really nice photo series and great tutorial.

Disintegr8or, very good build and very helpful for my eBIAB build thoughts.
alien, holy cow, cool build. Who would have ever thought of a flower pot pid controled smoker??? Very cool.

Hey thanks! it works pretty good. Wasn't my idea though, I saw it done on YouTube.

What probe do you use for that?


Never mind. Read your other thread. Carry on

Very cheap PT100. If I did it again I wouid probably go for a 2x thermocouples because you can get pointy ones to monitor meat temperature. Can't remember off hand whether my PID controller accept thermocouples though.

Flippin' awesome.

This is great. Wonder if something simple like this could be ported over to controlling a RIMS tube.

What size element do you use in this setup?

This controls one of my 1,650 watt elements.
I use (2) 1,650 watt elements in my 11 gallon pot.
Only one goes through the PID, and that is only when mashing.

Slicker than snot. Like the whole keep it way simple wiring approach. Great build with great pics, made it easy enough for my dumb azz to figger out.

Wheelchair Bob

Would this setup work with a 2000w 120v element? If not, what changes would need to be made. I'm converting a kettle to a eHLT, still going to boil with my Blichmann burner and mash in a cooler (for now). I think this might work for good way to heat strike/sparge water.

subscribed to save for later. nice job!

Would that controller work for controlling a boil?

Britinusa said:

Would that controller work for controlling a boil?

Click to expand...

I only use it to control the mash. To boil, I unplug the PID, plug both elements directly into the wall and let them go at it full blast. Gives me a rolling boil with 8 gallons.

Subbed

sbrbrad said:

I only use it to control the mash. To boil, I unplug the PID, plug both elements directly into the wall and let them go at it full blast. Gives me a rolling boil with 8 gallons.

Click to expand...

Thanks for posting, this helps me out a lot. It is nice to find a simple, easy to follow PID setup as I am not very good with electrical stuff.

I am thinking of doing a similar setup, but plan on boiling ~13 gallons with 1500watt 120v elements. Do you think it would be a good idea to add a third element? How long does it take you to boil 8 gallons?

Disintegr8or said:

Wiring Diagram:

Click to expand...

I am looking to build this same setup but with two (or three) elements hooked up to the same PID. I would like to do this so that I can leave all three elements plugged in and walk away without having to worry about overshooting my mash temp or boilovers (I plan on setting the target temp on the PID to just under boiling and then turning it on to manual mode once I am ready to watch it closely for the final few degrees.

Is this possible to do? I don't have any electrical experience so any input would be appreciated. I drew up a diagram of what I thought might work using an extra switch and SSR but this could be completely incorrect.

If anyone could let me know if I can change anything to make this work (short of buying another PID and thermocouple) it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

I would just like to add after a few months: Don't scrimp out and buy the cheaper PID off of Amazon like me. Buy the Auber. The Amazon one is a POS.

Great Job!

Disintegr8or said:

Click to expand...

Forgive my ignorance, but what is the plug on the left side of the kettle?

Looks like a second element not under PID control.

@sbrbrad which PID controller did you buy and what problems did you have?

alien said:

Looks like a second element not under PID control.

@sbrbrad which PID controller did you buy and what problems did you have?

Click to expand...

That's what it looks like to me as well, but I was confused as it said it was a one element system.

I assume that it's just that the PID is only controlling one element.

Would this same plan work for a 240V PID controller, just with different plugs? Or would it need to be a completely different setup?

Thanks,

Fairly similar, the major difference is that you need a 2 pole switch that cuts power to both hot wires. And of course your PID and other components must be able to handle 240 V.

I started wiring up my hybrid of this and jkarp's box last night - basically the same as this, but splitting the incoming hot with a wire nut to go to another switched outlet to power a pump. How the hell did you get 12 gauge wire into those PID terminals? I had to use some lighter gauge stuff that I had lying around.

You don't need anything like 12 gauge wire to the PID, I would think anything from about 22 AWG up would be fine provided there is a 1A fuse somewhere upstream.

Yeah I had read that a few places elsewhere. The OP didn't mention any smaller gauge wire in the parts list, so I was just wondering how, in this case, they got 12 gauge wire into those terminals.

In any event, thank you for the thread Disintegr8or, I just finished my control box build last week and it works like a charm!

Where did you find your 110v heating element?

I got both of mine on eBay for $12


There are a lot on there. Mine are 120v 2000

How hot does the heat sink get? Any risk of melting the box?