What's the gap in your barley crusher? Just got my mill

Hello,
So i just sold a couple things last weekend on Craigslist, and i finally bought a barley crusher, (which i've wanted for way too long). and when i got paid yesterday, my wife let me buy my first 50# sack of pale malt as well. The barley crusher instructions say that the gap is set at .039 thousands of an inch. my question is this. Since i've never milled my own, what would be a good gap to start? or does barley vary enough in size that you adjust yours frequently? Like so many other brewers on this amazing HBT forum, i always want to try to do things perfect the first time.

I would try it as is and see what your efficiency is. This way you will have a base line which to judge from. I would also get a feeler gage and see what the actual gap is verus the listed gap. When I bought mine the gap was preset .035.

I set mine at .032, which happens to be the thickness of a credit card.

.035 - my efficiency is 80-85%

I recently bought a monster mill 2.0 The guy said leave it as is it is normally preset at the right thickness for most grains

I set my barley crusher to .035 and get a nice crush.

+1 on .032. I get 80% batch sparging. Get a feeler gauge. Mine came set at the marks and it was .035, not .039 like the factory says. Congrats.

thanks for the input Gentlemen, you've been more helpful than you know

I recently did my first batch with my new Barely Crusher. Used factory settings and got 77% eff.

I just got mine as well. Tightened the gap a bit (~1 O'clock / 11 O'clock) and ended up at close to 86% eff. Overshot my OG by about 10 points, but I also had alot more boil-off than my last session too (first winter batch in CO).

default setting works great for me. I get very good efficiency consistently.

I have mine at .035. Factory setting was .039 at one end and about .035 at the other.

I set mine at .035 just because I wanted to tinker. I wonder just how different my .035 is from other people as I do believe that not everyone measures with a feeler gauge in the same way. The gap on mine from BC was not even across its length so I suggest checking it with a gauge.

As what everyone said, the default are both set at 12 o clock. I changed it to about 1 o clock (which is 11 o clock on the other side). Just watch the rollers to make sure they are moving toward each other to get it correct. I believe this is about .035 as opposed to the default .039.

I have about 150 batches on my BC and about 50 batches ago the rollers started losing their “bite”. If I tried to get to my desired gap (which was pretty aggressive), the grains would simply slip and not churn through.

Now I’ve gotten to the point of crushing once at the wider setting, and then running it through again at an even more aggressive gap than before. It’s a pain to crush twice, but my efficiency jumped about 6-8 points.

I use a lot of rice hulls though to prevent stuck sparges.

I am using the default setting .039 and have success with it getting about 82-86% with that. I haven't actually measured it with a feeler gauge so it may not be set to that but I haven't changed it.

For my process, a 0.028" gap results in a consistent 80% - 82% brewhouse efficiency with no stuck sparges. But, I wet mill my grain to prevent making flour.

With the default gap, I was in the mid 70s. I never measured it but I assume the factory sets the gap pretty accurately.

BierMuncher said:

I have about 150 batches on my BC and about 50 batches ago the rollers started lowing their “bite”. If I tried to get to my desired gap (which was pretty aggressive), the grains would simply slip and not churn through.

Now I’ve gotten to the point of crushing once at the wider setting, and then running it through again at an even more aggressive gap than before. It’s a pain to crush twice, but my efficiency jumped about 6-8 points.

I use a lot of rice hulls though to prevent stuck sparges.

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Hey BierMuncher, A couple thoughts crossed my mind while reading your post. FWIW... Have you checked with BC to see if they would replace the rollers? Have you tried conditioning your grain before milling to see if it would "bite" better? I've found that the conditioned grain gives a much more consistent crush and stuck sparges & rice hulls are a thing of the past. Good luck!!!

Wow... you guys have some fine settings. I set my Monster Mill MM-2 @ .042. I tried .038 and it wouldn't even crush, just sat there spinning. I get 75-78% efficiency.

Tech211 said:

I have mine at .035. Factory setting was .039 at one end and about .035 at the other.

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It's funny that you mention that, mine came the same way. I assumed it was some mistake on my part, so I left it at factory settings. I have gotten 82-84% eff on three batches. Perhaps next time I'll adjust it all down to .035 to try and eek up my eff.

When you tighten your rollers do you not worry about tannin extraction? Because the added efficiency sounds awesome, but I don't want to compromise w/off flavors from tannins. I never checked my gaps, but now I'm off to find my feeler gauges!

ok I just checked, and mine is .039 on one side, but tighter on the side w/the crank on it. I'll work on setting it up a better.

I use a spark plug gapper and set all grains for .042" and wheat malt at .040".

I condition my malt and set the gap to 0.034".

bdnoona said:

It's funny that you mention that, mine came the same way. I assumed it was some mistake on my part, so I left it at factory settings. I have gotten 82-84% eff on three batches. Perhaps next time I'll adjust it all down to .035 to try and eek up my eff.

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You probably will get a point or two. I know I did.

I don't think that the uneven settings are a problem, though. I know JSP makes a mill that only adjusts on one side.

Does anybody know of any gap settings that the pro's use?

punk_rockin2001 said:

When you tighten your rollers do you not worry about tannin extraction?

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Tannin extraction is a function of pH and runoff gravity, NOT the size of the milled husk.

However, you will get increased color extraction if you mash with overly shredded husks. That's why you wet condition your malt before you mill. It makes the husk more pliable to prevent shredding.

I'm at .042 on a Monster Mill 2 and I consistently get 85% eff. batch sparging. I check the gap before every crush as I have some issues with one of the thumb set screws loosening regularly.

lamarguy said:

Tannin extraction is a function of pH and runoff gravity, NOT the size of the milled husk.

However, you will get increased color extraction if you mash with overly shredded husks. That's why you wet condition your malt before you mill. It makes the husk more pliable to prevent shredding.

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What do you mean a function of the runoff gravity? How does that affect tannin extraction? Do you mean if the gravity is too low it will extract more tannins or is it something else?

punk_rockin2001 said:

What do you mean a function of the runoff gravity?

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I'm referring to the runoff gravity dropping below, say, 1.008 and/or pH going too high due to a declining buffer capacity.

Have a read and see if this answers your questions about wet milling.

When you guys measure your gap, are you just sliding the feeler gauge into the gap without the rollers spinning, or are you having to force them down? I noticed I can have a variance of over .01" between either sliding the feeler gauge down, to making them spin and barely getting the feeler through.

rcrabb22 said:

I'm at .042 on a Monster Mill 2 and I consistently get 85% eff. batch sparging. I check the gap before every crush as I have some issues with one of the thumb set screws loosening regularly.

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Try using some locktight you shouldnt have any more problems

Had my BC mill for a while, but just getting around to using it. Measures .035 on one side and tighter on the other. I'm gonna set it for .035 (cause that's the largest feeler gauge i have). Got my coleman extreme set up with a Bargain Fittings braid. If I get a stuck sparge, I'm blaming Bargain Fittings, lol...

-Aaron