Burner help

I have read countless threads and now I have contacted the company with no luck. I really need some advice on which burner to use for low pressure propane. I am not confused on the pressures. I fully understand the 11" water column or .5 psi for low pressure. 1)What I would like to know is who uses the 23 tip jet burners for this application and more specifically what are the size of the jet orifice for low pressure application.

I bought one from Thunder group and they could not tell me if it could be used for LP LP or what the orifice size are. I tried on low pressure and it seems like it works well but its a beast on high. Is there a difference in the sizes? When on low pressure I had a little yellow in the tips and it left no soot behind.

Next question is I have the Blichmann floor burner and wanted to convert that to low pressure. I drilled out the jet 3/32 but get a really yellow flame that leaves a lot of soot behind. Should I fill the whole and go smaller? I have looked at the chart that compares (Low Pressure Orifice Chart) orifice to BTU output. Is it better to start small and work my way up? Also this burner has been used for high pressure many times so I don't think it's burning any paint/oil off.

Thanks ahead of time for some help.

I found an issue with the blichmann burner, the air intake shutter seemed to be the problem. I guess the air flow dynamics were not adequate for full combustion. I found that out by removing the shutter and it burned blue. The shutter does not open the air port full so at 100% open it looks like only 30-40% area open.

The conversion to low pressure for the multijet burners requires a complete nozzle replacement. For anything over 10 nozzles on NG it is just to much under a converted keg. If you are trying to convert the 6" ring burner then 1/16" is the right size, same for the 4" burner, 3/32" for the 10" burner. With the higher output burners, most of the high output is going up the sides, while the smaller burner will actually heat faster because the fire stays under the kettle.

Kladue thanks for the response.
I have a few follow up questions. I have the 23 tip burner, would you suggest stepping down to 10 tips or pack it up for another burner. The heat out put with the current tips looked adequate to heat up my converted kegs. Do you happen to know what the orifice size is so I could check if it right? This is the main question that I looking for an answer to because the company could not tell me. They I have found one thread that states that low pressure LP orifice is #75 drill index size. I'm going to check my burner to find out because the out put rating of this burner was 100,000 btus, which seems low for these jet burners.

Do you think that the air flow in on the banjo style burner is the reason for the poor combustion? It is the 10". I'm going to conduct a boil test in the near future to make sure this setup is good to go.

The 10" banjo burner is the most successful burner in the brew stands, able to operate with high/low pressure propane and NG with just changing the gas jet fitting. Replacement gas jet/valves are $8 and take 5 minutes to change out and adjust air shutter disk.
If you are having dirty flame( all yellow) look inside the burner for anything that should not be there, cobwebs, leftover casting sand, etc., anything that slows down air/gas flow will have a big effect on flame.
For the lowest cost source look at AGS site for the 10 cast burner and order the appropriate gas jet fitting from Williams Brewing HURRICANE BURNER LPG GAS VALVE @ Williams Brewing.

Thanks, I actually just bought that burner and had it delivered yesterday. It works great. You make a great point on the ease of transition from one gas to another. This direction would allow a very easy transition to natural gas. Thanks for your help.