just racked this to secondary with a gravity reading of 1.012, on to two pounds of pasteurized seedless green grapes and an ounce of french oak with heavy char. A rebel, I know... the sample I took to get the gravity reading was most delicious
The efficiency reading means nothing until you enter in your numbers from the brew day. Go to the fermentation tab and set all of the fields that are editable to 0.0. it should then show a brewhouse efficiency of 0.0%.
Thanks its always nice to get some reassurance. I plan to keep it in the primary for a little longer because i do not have anywhere near the amount of bottles needed and whats the fun in buying emptiesAll of the trub is normal for biab. I transfer everything into my fermentor when I BIAB just make sure to let everything settle out before transferring to secondary or bottling. If the beer looks cloudy let it sit longer or cold crash to force the yeast out of suspension
egsb said:I'm a fairly new brewer so I was hoping to get some insight on my issue. I brewed this and let it sit in the primary for 2 weeks then age in the keg at room temp for close to 3 weeks. I chilled it and carbed it this weekend and am getting a very strong alcohol tasting finish at the end. My fermenting temps were good and consistent as well. Any ideas? Or is this beer simply not ready yet?
Thanks
What was your OG & FG? What yeast did you use?
I just brewed up my third batch of this which dropped from 1.011 to 1.006 after just a few days in secondary and 3 weeks in primary. Would this be from moving it around or maybe an increase in temp(I moved it to a slightly warmer room, but just by like two defgrees.)?
i would like to hear some discussion about this because i've had a lot of my beers do this sort of thing over the last year and i can't pin down the problem...any opinions from the veterans?
Honestly it could be several different things causing it. Reintroduction of oxygen, getting the yeast stirred up, wild yeast. If it's going to do that though, better in the secondary than in the bottle. I usually don't secondary unless I'm doing it to clear so I haven't ran into that problem yet.
This is my Haus Pale Ale. A very quaffable beer that is very easy to make using basic ingredients and a dry yeast.
Grain Bill
8 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt
2 lbs. Vienna Malt
0.5 lb. Crystal 10L Malt
Mash
Single Infusion mash for 60 minutes at 152 degrees.
I batch sparge in a 10 gallon water cooler with a stainless braid manifold. Click here for great info on Batch Sparging.
Dough-in with 3.5 gallons of water. After 60 minutes, add 5 quarts of 175 degree water and begin vorlauf. My system only takes about 2 quarts before it clears up, then it's wide open to drain in the kettle. Have another 3.25 gallons of 175 degree water ready for the next batch sparge. You should then get 6.5 gallons to your kettle for the boil.
Mini Mash
You might be able to do a mini mash with 5 lbs. of light DME.
Heat 3.5 qts of water to ~168/169F in a pot.
Heat a gallon of water to ~170 in another pot.
Add 2lb. of Vienna and 1/2 lb. of Crystal 10L (crushed grains) to the pot with the 168/169F water and stir very throughly.
Put lid on that pot, placed in oven at 150F.
Let it sit for an hour.
Pour the water (now wort) into your brew pot through your strainer. Put grains back into pot.
Pour the 170F water into the pot where your grain is, stir throughly, let sit for 10 mins. Pour that wort into your brew pot through your strainer.
You'll get 50-60% efficiency with that partial mash method.
Add additional water, extract, and hops to the brew pot and proceed like usual.
Extract Version
Here's what I have converted for an Extract version. Vienna must be mashed, but Austin Homebrew sells Munich LME which should bring this pretty darn close to the All Grain version. Just steep your Crystal 10 L and do a full boil and follow the hop schedule.
6.5# Extra Pale LME
1.5# Munich LME
8 oz. Crystal 10L (steep)
Boil & Hops
1.0 oz Cascade 6.6% at 60 min.
0.5 oz. Cascade 6.6% at 30 min.
0.25 oz. Cascade 6.6% at 15 min.
0.25 oz. Cascade 6.6% at 5 min.
Chill to 70 to 75 degrees
Pitch with Nottingham Dry Yeast. No starter or hydration. Update! With the Nottingham shortage, Safale -05 is a great substitute and will make a great beer too. Very similar.
This ferments out very fast, so I will crash cool and keg after 1 week to 10 days. This recipe is calculated at 75% efficiency. I'm getting over 80% though with my Barley Crusher and my 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler w/stainless braid MLT.
The beer drops very clear after sitting in the kegerator for a week and looks like this.
It's my Haus Ale because it turned out to be a beer that everyone likes. It's light, crisp, dry, and very tasty which means several trips to the tapper.
You can get all the ingredients with a single click here: http://www.brewmasterswarehouse.com
It is too cold in Montreal to brew all grain so I'll try a partial mash for the first time. Can't find a Munich LME...what can I do since Vienna should be mashed? I heard that if you mix the vienna with some 2-row then it would work....can you help? thanks
thanks tennesse!Vienna can convert itself--it doesn't need 2row in the mash (or so I've read, I've never done a vienna SMASH before). Depending on how big your mashing kettle/pot is, you could add some 2-row to lessen the amount of extract you have to use. Use a calculator (brewtarget is free, or use the recipe generator at BMW) to figure out how much 2-row and how much light L/DME you need to hit Ed's gravity numbers. Also use this to see how much you can fit in your pot.
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