pH Meter

I bought a bench pH meter. Now I need a pH electrode with a BNC connection. Anybody got a good source?

This is the best price I am seeing:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G8PUHU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Which meter did you get? On the one hand there is little point in getting a high performance electrode for an inexpensive meter but, OTOH, you wouldn't want a cheap electrode for a high performance meter.

If the meter is a $100 - 200 instrument then I am sure this electrode would be fine for use with it.

I got this meter:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230735670823&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:1123

I think it is a pretty high end meter. I hate to drop too much $$ on the probe since they wear out, but also hate buying things twice when I decide I want things to work better...

I'll need to put a new power supply on it (the AC/DC converter is for Canada I think)

That probe should be fine for that meter. I would get a tmp probe or a 3in1 probe for it so you can utilize the ATC function also.

That's a pretty nice meter which is, I assume, being sold so cheaply as it is a dicontinued model. It has specs which indicate that it can support a higher quality electrode. The first step up is to double junction models such as http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/p...junction_gel_filled_BNC_connector/EW-59001-70. This only increases the price a few $ and will prolong the life of the electrode. I'd estimate 6 mos life for a single junction and 1 year for a double junction. A very good electrode would cost over $200 but the ones I have been using last over 2 years and hold calibration for weeks.

Note that you will also need a thermister based temperature probe (or will have to measure the temperature by other means and enter it manually into the instrument), buffers (4 and 7) and storage solution for whichever electrode you decide on.

And Canada is 110 so that wall wart wouldn't work in Canada either. You will need a 1/2 amp 9 V wall wart which you can get at radio shack. You can cut the connector from the 220 V unit you have and splice onto the wires from the new unit. Be very careful to get the polarity right. You can also take the unit to Radio Shack and possibly get a wall wart with matching connector or at least an adapter.

The temperature probe is probably 2.5 mm phone but you can find that out at Radio Shack too.

230vac? one could probably find a 120v to 9V 200mA transformer though....

I might step up to the double junction. With increased accuracy and life I think I can justify that.

That's exactly the plan for power. I grabbed a 9VDC wall wart (My work shop has a box of old ones). I'll hack the plug off the supplied on and solder it on.

It's been my experience that it is easy to find in a given country what you need to make stuff in the country you are in work over seas but not conversely. IOW you will find a ton of stuff at Radio Shacks in the USA, at the airport etc for converting 220 (overseas) voltage and plugs to 110 but not the other way around. With modern switching power supplies for almost everything stepup/stepdown transformers are becoming rare as most warts will do 50 - 60 Hz and 100 - 240 VAC and are lots lighter than a transformer. But in principle a step up transformer would work. OTOH OP should have no trouble finding a half amp 9 VDC wall wart at Radio Shack.

errr

How about this puppy:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G8PUG6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

When using pH meters I need to calibrate often, store the electrode in storage solution (not dry or DI). Anything else?

I use a cooler MLT. Do I just draw a sample off, cool it, and measure. Then circulate wort if I add any additions? I think Gordon Strong says to measure at mash temp, but I thought most literature references room temp. Is there a good how-to for this?

ajdelange- my last 2 beers with your RO + additions method have been great. That's why I'm buying this.

RDWHAHB said:

How about this puppy:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G8PUG6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Click to expand...

What I particularly like here is that this electrode is specifically recommended for your meter.

RDWHAHB said:

When using pH meters I need to calibrate often, store the electrode in storage solution (not dry or DI). Anything else?

Click to expand...

The meter should be calibrated each brew day. The manual for your meter has detailed calibration instructions. Use fresh buffers. The best, IMO, are the ones that you buy as a little capsule full of powder and mix with DI water just before use. Can't get much fresher than that.

Whenever moving from one liquid (buffer or sample) and another, rinse the electrode with a stream of DI water from a wash bottle. Shake (gently) off the excess DI water and/or blot the electrode dry (don't touch the bulb) with paper towel.

Move the electrode around a little in each liquid to rinse any water clinging to the bulb or reference junction away.

RDWHAHB said:

I use a cooler MLT. Do I just draw a sample off, cool it, and measure. Then circulate wort if I add any additions? I think Gordon Strong says to measure at mash temp, but I thought most literature references room temp. Is there a good how-to for this?

Click to expand...

Do measurements at room temperature. Even the home brewing community is coming around to accepting that as the standard and it is much easier on your electrode (will prolong its life).

ajdelange- my last 2 beers with your RO + additions method have been great. That's why I'm buying this.[/QUOTE]

Electrode ordered. I figure next brew day I will measure pH, but might not adjust until I get a handle on the whole meter thing. Ought to be fun.

Got the meter. Soldered on my power supply with good results. Got reminded why I don't solder for a living; 2 solders took 45 minutes.

Probe hasn't shipped so I won't get to play on my brew this weekend.