Priming When Kegging?

I'm about to rack my first batch. Everything that I have read tells me I should prime the batch when kegging but with less priming sugar than if bottling. But my friend says I don't need to prime since I'm going to have gas hooked up to it. Any suggestions?

You do not need to prime it if you have it hooked up to your CO2 (force carbed). There is another method where you can prime it with sugar, basically using your keg as a giant bottle, but you do not need to do that if you will be using CO2.

If you prime with sugar you'll have to leave it at room temp to carbonate. That means another ~3 weeks before you can pour. Plus you'll have to deal with the sediment in the bottom of the keg (comes up in at least the first pint). Neither issues happen when you force carbknate. I would just make damned sure the brew is otherwise ready to go to glass before moving it to keg. Then just set it at serving temperature, and pressure, for two weeks before you pull a pint.

Thanks for the comments. I'm planning on cold crashing it tomorrow so seems it wouldn't be a good idea (or even necessary) to prime.

Thanks.

twilbrew247 said:

Thanks for the comments. I'm planning on cold crashing it tomorrow so seems it wouldn't be a good idea (or even necessary) to prime.

Thanks.

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I've yet to cold crash any beer I've made. I simply give it enough time for the yeast to flocculate out and then transfer to keg. Of course, since I'm transferring with a CO2 push, I don't need to move the primary to do that. If your brew is clear (I'd leave it in primary until it has cleared) then you just need to rack to keg and put it into the fridge/keezer/etc. Let it rest there for about 24 hours, then connect it up to the CO2 feed.

What's the best way to rack to a keg? Should I just purge the keg with beergas first then just siphon?

twilbrew247 said:

What's the best way to rack to a keg? Should I just purge the keg with beergas first then just siphon?

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That's what I do.

Once the keg is clean, and sanitized, fill it with CO2 (you only need 5psi for this case) then pull the relief valve in the lid to remove the pressure. You'll still have CO2 in the lower part of the keg. Fill from the bottom (obviously) and the CO2 will blanket the brew as you fill.

BTW, 'beergas' is a mix of CO2 and nitrogen (typically 75% nitrogen, 25% CO2, but can be 80/20 too) and not something you would carbonate with. You carbonate, typically, with CO2. IF you want to use a stout tap and get the typical Guinness style pour, you would set the keg on beergas once it's fully carbonated. You'll also need to have the beergas at a higher PSI than CO2 in order to maintain the carbonation level. I've not done this (yet) since I really don't have the space for it. It is something I plan on doing this fall/winter though. :rockin:

Something to keep in mind, depending on what you ferment in, you could transfer with a CO2 push too. Carboys can be fitted with the caps that allow you to put the racking cane (in the middle) and a hose to the CO2 regulator on the other nipple. You only use a couple of PSI to get the beer to flow. It does make it easier, IMO/IME this way. I also use the liquid post on the keg to fill it. So, I don't put anything into my sanitized keg other than beer, when filling it. Since I fill two 3 gallon kegs with every batch, I do watch as it fills (covering the opening with a clean, sanitized, towel).

Awesome...you answered a couple more of my questions too.

If you force carve you will get 5-6 legs per 5lb tank of CO2. If you prime with sugar you will get closer to 15 tanks a bottle. You also give the beer a few more weeks to age which never hurts. Just a few ++ for priming

JeepDiver said:

If you force carve you will get 5-6 legs per 5lb tank of CO2. If you prime with sugar you will get closer to 15 tanks a bottle. You also give the beer a few more weeks to age which never hurts. Just a few ++ for priming

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I'm through 7 kegs, all force carbed at 30psi and consumed at 10-12psi, and still have a good bit of gas to go from a 5# CO2 tank.

Force carb away. CO2 is cheap anyway. I pay $1/lb to refill mine at a fire extinguisher shop.

I am going to force carb my skeeter pee I'm making and have everything but a co2 tank. My dad has an empty cylinder though, do you think it matters if the cylinder was used for oxygen or asetaline? Or anything for that matter. Or should I just make sure its empty and fill it with co2

william2010 said:

I am going to force carb my skeeter pee I'm making and have everything but a co2 tank. My dad has an empty cylinder though, do you think it matters if the cylinder was used for oxygen or asetaline? Or anything for that matter. Or should I just make sure its empty and fill it with co2

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You CANNOT get CO2 put into anything that's not rated for CO2. So, no, you cannot use an O2 or acetylene tank for CO2. You also need to make sure the hydro stamp on the CO2 tank is not over five years old. You won't be able to get it filled but you can exchange it. You might be able to exchange the other tanks towards an CO2 tank.

Golddiggie said:

You CANNOT get CO2 put into anything that's not rated for CO2. So, no, you cannot use an O2 or acetylene tank for CO2. You also need to make sure the hydro stamp on the CO2 tank is not over five years old. You won't be able to get it filled but you can exchange it. You might be able to exchange the other tanks towards an CO2 tank.

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Great, thanks a bunch for the info. I might have to do that. where do I generally get them filled?

I get mine filled at a place that services/sells CO2 based fire extinguishers. They simply fill while I wait. You can typically exchange at welding gas supply stores. Check to see what's in your area.

I have been extremely fortunate in having a good friend who provides gas services for restaurants (and likes beer), so I have free reign to beergas and CO2!

But he recommended welding supply companies for small amounts of CO2 filling.

Dead Ringer IPA (Bell's two-hearted clone).

Quick update: Dead Ringer IPA complete and quite tasty! :rockin:
Ended up force carbing at 30 psi, but forgot to turn down the CO2 for 3 days. Now it's at 10 psi and improving.

JeepDiver said:

If you force carve you will get 5-6 legs per 5lb tank of CO2. If you prime with sugar you will get closer to 15 tanks a bottle. You also give the beer a few more weeks to age which never hurts. Just a few ++ for priming

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i believe the 5-6 kegs is for half barrels.. that would be 15-18 soda kegs which does seem about right from my experience

Hi,
I have a related question to this topic. I have to buy some gas to carbonate and dispense beer from 5 gallons kegs. The gas distributor told me that I should use "Gazobière" (beergas 50/50) instead of only CO2. I want to use this gas to carbonated AND to dispense. Does the beergas is suitable to carbonate the keg or I should consider only CO2?. I don't want to have 2 types of gas.
Thanks!

Use 100% CO2 for normal brews. Beer gas (typically 75/25 nitrogen/CO2) is used for stouts or with a stout tap. Using a 50/50 mix means you'll need to push double the psi to obtain the same carbonation level. Basically he's talking from his posterior.