Need examples of C02 tanks outside kegerators

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cdubbaya

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I'm wondering if anyone has pics or a thread explaining how they ran a CO2 gas line out side of their kegerator or keezer?

I'm starting a conversion but I wanted to see some examples of how other people set up their system. I've decided to convert a mini-fridge, but I have a 20lbs CO2 tank and can't fit it in the fridge with 2 corny's.

I've been reading the forums all day, but all the photos I've seen are with 5lbs tanks that fit inside the fridge.

Thanks in advance!
 
im going to be sticking 1/4" od stainless through a grommet on each side to feed a manifold for each primary reg.... one more (total of 6) keg INSIDE is worth it to have the 20#er on top of the fridge.
 
what kind of mini fridge do you have?? on a keezer you can put the gas line threw the wooden coller. on a mini fridge it depends on the fridge
 
I read a thread once of a guy who ran shanks through the wall of this kegerator (just like the liquid lines) and had barbed fittings on each side. I thought that was a very cool idea and supposedly nearly foolproof.
 
Somebody makes a pass through shank to run co2 through a wall. It has 1/4" MFL on each end so you can just connect up your lines on each side. I've been meaning to order one, but can't figure out where I saw it.
 
This is what I did and it works great, PVC through the side and filled with spray foam.

DSC01611.JPG
 
I just used a 1/4" brass nipple, about 1.5" long. Put it through the sidewall close to the door and added barbed fitting on both sides. That was my old kegger, so I don't have any pictures.
 
I just ran the line from the reg right through the fridge wall into the 4 port manifold inside. No fittings in the wall, but I drilled the hole to just a hair over the outside dia of the CO2 line. Works quite well, and is fairly simple. I will post pictures when I get home.

TB
 
I just ran the line from the reg right through the fridge wall into the 4 port manifold inside. No fittings in the wall, but I drilled the hole to just a hair over the outside dia of the CO2 line. Works quite well, and is fairly simple. I will post pictures when I get home.

TB

I have the same setup. I was going to put a bead of silicone around the hose, but it's such a tight fit that I didn't bother.
 
I used this bulkhead from AHS
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_40_131_574&products_id= 10234

the gas hose off my regulator has one of these on the end:
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_40_131_575&products_id= 1272
I hope you've seen/used one of these before, its the same part that screws onto a QD as seen here:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/kegging/soda-kegs-fittings/ball-disc-1-4-mfl-gas.html

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewi...s/gas-connector-kit-bl-ball-lock-version.html


unless you have one of these:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/kegging/soda-kegs-fittings/ball-disc-1-4-barb-gas.html

anyways, That AHS "mini bulkhead" works exactly the same as any other draft bulkhead, except CO2 passes through, and not liquid. On the inside of the fridge, use another FFL fitting on the inside, and run the gas line with a QD to your Keg(s) / regulator of choice.
 
I just ran the line from the reg right through the fridge wall into the 4 port manifold inside. No fittings in the wall, but I drilled the hole to just a hair over the outside dia of the CO2 line. Works quite well, and is fairly simple. I will post pictures when I get home.

TB

Here are some pictures

DSC00384.jpg


DSC00385.jpg


Inside showing the manifold and temp probe, but you can see where the line comes in through the wall:
DSC00388.jpg


TB
 
The bulk head will work if you are planning on keeping the reg(s) on the outside and run low pressure hoses to the inside of the freezer, if you want to have the reg(s) on the inside and run the high pressure through the collar then you will need to convert from RHT to LHT. Most LHBS don't stock this hardware but then can order it.

Currently I use a 6 foot remote cylinder connection hose to a brass elbow connected to the elbow is a 6 inch brass nipple from the nipple it goes to the LHT to RHT converter finishing up the reg.

The reason I decided not to use the bulk head bolts posted was because it was 2 more connections that could possibly fail at some point.
 
Why did you use the PVC and the spray foam?

The PVC was just to make a clean hole & I had some,the foam was for insulation .And by keeping every thing out side it makes for a clean inside & room for more kegs.
DSC01613.JPG
 
I have the same setup. I was going to put a bead of silicone around the hose, but it's such a tight fit that I didn't bother.

Same here. Lines are friction fit through the side of the fridge. Simplicity.
 
Hey Thanks Guys,

@keiths, I like that the manifold is on the outside of the keg, I may consider doing this as well although I'm not looking to fill my fridge full of holes if I don't have to.


Any risk of hitting some lines on a mini-fridge? I know many people say that most of the lines are on the top, but I want to make sure I can drill a small hole in the side if needed.
 
I just ran the line from the reg right through the fridge wall into the 4 port manifold inside. No fittings in the wall, but I drilled the hole to just a hair over the outside dia of the CO2 line. Works quite well, and is fairly simple. I will post pictures when I get home.

TB

Same here. Easiest way to go about it.

If you are worried about condenser lines in the body of the fridge just do the corn starch test. That said, you are probably good to go as I believe all the lines are on top in a mini fridge. Mine is a full size so I can't really say...
 
I'm wondering if anyone has pics or a thread explaining how they ran a CO2 gas line out side of their kegerator or keezer?

Thanks in advance!

My setup uses a standard shank and a QD on the outside.
CO2_Manifold3.jpg


Gas_In1.jpg



Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
Corn starch test?
Yup. Another one of my ideas a bunch of years ago when I was in the process of converting a Sanyo 4910. I knew that there were refer lines running through the top metal skin of the unit but I needed to locate them exactly. A tablespoon of corn starch mixed with Vodka makes a 'paint' that can be used for the task. Paint the surface and then start the refer. The condenser lines are welded to the inner surface of the outside metal skin. The condenser lines get hot and shed the heat pulled from the interior of the refer. With this done, the alcohol evaporates very quickly and changes the cornstarch mix from a dull off white to a stark white as it is dried. The lines can be located precisely (IF you watch closely) using this method.

To HappyLoon: What make/model mini-fridge do you have? Does it have a set of coils attached to the back of the unit? If not - when you plug it in and allow it to run, feel the sides of the box. Do the sides get warm?

This is some important info to gather so that you do not destroy the unit by drilling a hole in the wrong place. You only get one chance to do it right. No?

BTW, With the Sanyo unit, there is a drain hole below the cold plate inside the unit. I ran the co² line through the drain to the 20 pounder. You might want to chech to see if your unit has a drain as well.

Hope all of this is of some help to you.

Edit: Here is a link to a build that I did for a friend in 2006. Some of the pix are no longer there but you will get some ideas - hopefully.
BB get together/Sanyo Conversion
 
More work being done... a little at a time... Look at the greenish/blue CO2 line coming into the fridge... It's got alot of silicone and because it has been moved around the silicone isn't even sealing around the hose any more. Plus because of the nature of the hose if you try and bend it too much it will kink and shut off, otherwise it runs out into the kegerator more than I would like it too... So... REDESIGN!!!!
Manifold.jpg


Finally figured out how I was going to run the CO2 line through the frigde wall and got that all mounted today. Going to let the foam finish expanding and leaking out then clean it all up and I'll put a little paint on the outside to clean up the ugliness a little.
I also mounted the regualtors and checked everything for leaks. I will probably change the Air hose on the inside soon, I used 5/16" hose and it didn't fit as tight as I would like it, so I'll go down to 1/4" ID hose and that should give a nice tight fit and prevent leaks.

Below you can see how the line can no be run right down the side of the fridge instead of it sticking out and worrying about it kinking.
IMG_0336.jpg


Here you can see the 2 fittings on either side of the fridge wall.
IMG_0337.jpg


And here is inside with the regualtor, gauges, and make shift manifolds mounted... (The black hose is the one that will be changed.)
IMG_0335.jpg
 
I used a 1/4"x3" Brass Nipple
12bf9c69-3d5d-4adc-bd07-62f444af8871_300.jpg


2 - 1/4"x1/4" 90's
c8bdedfc-f5ce-4f3a-befa-0e4b4f8dba86_300.jpg


2 - 1/4"flare x 1/4" MIP unions (Note: the best pic I could find to represent what I got. Mine were yellow brass like the above fittings)
e8b2dd72-ad08-461b-ab4a-3fe6ec615849_300.jpg


2 - 1/2" Brass Washers
Washers-flat-washers-brass-washer-copper-washers-2801_image.jpg


Total cost for "bulkhead" fitting with tax $23. (note: I used a local family owned hardware store, the prices are a little higher but I like shopping locally. You could probably find it a little cheaper at a larger store.)
 

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