Fermentation with WLP 002.... Did I make it stop???

Hey,
Just got done brewing my second batch... A ESB and I used a WLP 002 yeast for my starter. I bought a cool brewing bag because 1)I don't have the room for a freezer I can control my fermentation temps 2) My first batch was a Imperial IPA and I kept it around the mid 70's so I wanted something to help with temps.... Anyways I started the first fermentation on Sunday and I got up on Monday to check my temps... It went from 64 to 61 over night... I took a bottle out to get my temps around 64-66 degrees.. Just a side note it did get up to 70 this AM because I didn't switch out my frozen bottles soon enough.

I noticed the fermentation started off strong but since Monday night it looks to have stopped and just quit.... Not foamy head or anything... Just wondering if I stopped the fermentation and what is a good temp range for WLP 002? Thanks I hope I don't leave anything out

It's good. Leave it be for at least another week then take a gravity reading. Record the trading then take another two or three days later. If it's stable, you're good to bottle /keg.

it has a 65-68 range so if you are below 65 it's probably slowed way down, get it back up.

you post is a little confusing but i'm assuming you are talking about active fermentation.

Should I just let it be it room temp of about 70? If so how long should I let it stay around that temp?

The blow off tube was doing its thing from Sunday from when I came home at lunch... I got home after work and checked the temp of 65 and noticed the blow off tube was very quite

eastoak said:

you post is a little confusing but i'm assuming you are talking about active fermentation.

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Yes... Sorry just typed that up while rocking a baby... Lol sorry about that

the first 12-18 hrs are critical for fermentation temps in terms of off flavors. after that what's done is done.

Okay thanks guys

I use this yeast in most beers. I've found that big temp drops will quickly cause the yeast to flocculate and settle. But small changes due to ambient shift aren't a big deal. It is recommended that you ensure the temp stays high at the end of fermentation to encourage cleanup.

On another note, I've had it actively ferment a batch at 59 degrees so it has a nice temp range. I prefer fermenting most beers at 62-64 until it starts to slow down. Then ramp up. If you want a good dose of English character, 68 degrees is a little better.

kanzimonson said:

I use this yeast in most beers. I've found that big temp drops will quickly cause the yeast to flocculate and settle. But small changes due to ambient shift aren't a big deal. It is recommended that you ensure the temp stays high at the end of fermentation to encourage cleanup.

On another note, I've had it actively ferment a batch at 59 degrees so it has a nice temp range. I prefer fermenting most beers at 62-64 until it starts to slow down. Then ramp up. If you want a good dose of English character, 68 degrees is a little better.

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True dat ^^^^^^^^^. WLP002 is the same as WY1968ESB. You want to start it out at 63-64*F, run it there a few days and then let it come up to about 68.

If you keep it too cool or drop the temp after it's mostly done, it will floc out and form a very, very firm yeast cake at the bottom which is darn near impossible to rouse unless you gently stir it up with a sanitized spoon.

The first three days I would say were between 61-64 most... I have it now at a steady 68 and will rack into the secondary on Saturday

HopHead_32 said:

The first three days I would say were between 61-64 most... I have it now at a steady 68 and will rack into the secondary on Saturday

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There's no good reason that I know of to rack an ESB, especially one using WLP002, into a secondary. That strain drops like a rock and forms a firm layer on the bottom leaving you clear beer in the primary. ESB is one of my regular brews and I've never put one in a secondary.

All that you're doing is increasing the risk of oxidation and, to a lesser extent, contamination. If you decide to do it anyway, be sure to take a gravity reading first and make sure that it's completely done fermenting.

BigFloyd said:

There's no good reason that I know of to rack an ESB, especially one using WLP002, into a secondary. That strain drops like a rock and forms a firm layer on the bottom leaving you clear beer in the primary. ESB is one of my regular brews and I've never put one in a secondary. All that you're doing is increasing the risk of oxidation and, to a lesser extent, contamination. If you decide to do it anyway, be sure to take a gravity reading first and make sure that it's completely done fermenting.

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Can do man thanks. I was going to check the gravity on Saturday... The OG before fermentation was 1.066 and I'm wondering what it will be a week later... I'm also surprised at the amount of trub, the carboy was about 1/4 full of trub and now this morning it's less than 1/2 inch... Hoping its a good second brew

if it did stop prematurely (and you won't know until that gravity reading), or left you with diacetyl, which this yeast can do if it doesn't get around to finishing, you'll be hard pressed to get this strain going again. what i have done successfully is to siphon some of the yeast cake off the bottom (autosiphon is the best for this cause you can pump out the sludge) into 500-750ml or so of fresh starter wort and get it going until it's really fermenting, this can be just a few hours, add it back in and give it a few days.

After a week checked my gravity.... Started 1.066 at 60F before fermentation.... Today a week later at 60F 1.014..... I think it's done.... Anyone agree?

Our first brew wasn't temp controlled.... This was our first brew (second overall) and we could control the fermentation temp... Last time it was very violent but since the temp was down it was slower and less crazy.... Just got me nervous lol... Thanks for everyone's input!

HopHead_32 said:

After a week checked my gravity.... Started 1.066 at 60F before fermentation.... Today a week later at 60F 1.014..... I think it's done.... Anyone agree?

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likely done. but if you aren't certain then check it again in a few days!

dinnerstick said:

likely done. but if you aren't certain then check it again in a few days!

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Crazy question..... Is there a chart or a way to give you a estimated finished gravity?

HopHead_32 said:

Crazy question..... Is there a chart or a way to give you a estimated finished gravity?

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an easy way it to enter your grain bill into an online calculator or buy brewing software like beersmith. you could also do the math by hand and i think palmer covers that in his book "how to brew". the easiest way of all is to let it sit for 3 weeks, done for sure.

eastoak said:

an easy way it to enter your grain bill into an online calculator or buy brewing software like beersmith. you could also do the math by hand and i think palmer covers that in his book "how to brew". the easiest way of all is to let it sit for 3 weeks, done for sure.

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Yeah I just was reading that in "how to brew"...... Been trying to read as much as I can but due to a 3 month old is hard to read more than 10 mins. Thank man

BigFloyd said:

There's no good reason that I know of to rack an ESB, especially one using WLP002, into a secondary. That strain drops like a rock and forms a firm layer on the bottom leaving you clear beer in the primary. ESB is one of my regular brews and I've never put one in a secondary. All that you're doing is increasing the risk of oxidation and, to a lesser extent, contamination. If you decide to do it anyway, be sure to take a gravity reading first and make sure that it's completely done fermenting.

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Thanks man for the heads up on the ESB recommendation.... I'm going to leave it in the primary for the next three weeks. Thanks again