Mr Beer - Read all about it and ask questions

so if i bottle this week/weekend i should still be ok?

BFitch said:

so if i bottle this week/weekend i should still be ok?

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Yes.

I don't remember what the Mr. Beer keg is made of.
If it is PET (recycle code 1) then it will be extremely resistant to oxidation.
PET plastic is comparable to Glass. http://www.better-bottle.com

mredge73 said:

I don't remember what the Mr. Beer keg is made of.
If it is PET (recycle code 1) then it will be extremely resistant to oxidation.
PET plastic is comparable to Glass. http://www.better-bottle.com

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It's recyclable, but it's #3, not 1. I think the person who expressed concern about possible oxidation wasn't suggesting that the plastic could leak, but that since it uses a "passive airlock" relying on the layer of CO2 to coat the surface and keep oxygen away, that the CO2 layer might not remain intact over a longer time frame.

thanks guys. i have full intentions of bottling this by the weekend. as long as st pattys day doesnt get in the way

bpgreen said:

It's recyclable, but it's #3, not 1. I think the person who expressed concern about possible oxidation wasn't suggesting that the plastic could leak, but that since it uses a "passive airlock" relying on the layer of CO2 to coat the surface and keep oxygen away, that the CO2 layer might not remain intact over a longer time frame.

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That's what I was talking about bpgreen.

Wishing you a good brew BFitch!

I've got some very good honey that I'm trying to use in various applications - when bottling, does anyone have an idea what the conversion from the Mr. Beer recommended measure of priming sugar to honey be?

Ringoshoe said:

I've got some very good honey that I'm trying to use in various applications - when bottling, does anyone have an idea what the conversion from the Mr. Beer recommended measure of priming sugar to honey be?

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I've never primed with honey, but I think that if you want to prime with honey, you should probably batch prime since it's probably difficult to accurately measure/weigh the small amount needed to bottle prime.

I would also use a priming calculator to figure out how much to use. I forget what site I used when I started batch priming, but lately I've been steering people to this one: http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/p/brewing-tools-formulas.html#bpc

Yes, I'd definitely be batch priming (got a bottling bucket for that, and the inevitable expansion to bigger fermentors ) because the potential imprecision of bottle priming rankles my engineering soul. I'll check out that calculator, and the one I remember seeing mentioned a dozen or so pages back in this thread too.

why does mr beer always taste like yeast?

grouperdude said:

why does mr beer always taste like yeast?

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How long do you let it condition? The longer you let it sit the better it gets. Once in a while I pick up a Mr beer kit, they clarance then at the local home store. I have found that I'd let it sit for about 4weeks after bottling and it taste better.

grouperdude said:

why does mr beer always taste like yeast?

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a. You are pouring the entire bottle into the glass.

b. You are not fermenting long enough.

c. You are not conditioning enough.

d. You don't like the taste of the fromunda yeast, try another.

e. all the above.

Try a different yeast, s-05 has been working well for me and seems to form a more compact sediment. Can usually pour the entire bottle gently and still have clear beer.

You can also cold crash it before bottling.
Set it in the fridge for 2 days before bottling; most of the yeast will fall out of suspension.
Bottle from the spigot on level ground as instructed and toss out the bottom.

The beer will still be a "living" beer as in not everything will fall out. Try some unfiltered bottle conditioned commercial beers and see if you get the same "yeasty" taste.

I've decided that I really don't like the Mr. Beer's unregulated airlock. Aside from being a little bit jury rigged, would there be any problem with using a little silicone or the like to seal up the notches, then punch a hole in the lid, add a grommet, and use a regular air lock?

I really don't like the fact that once fermentation has stopped, there's nothing stopping changing air pressure from pushing oxygen into the keg.

You would need to use some real food grade silicon like GE Silicone 2 at $5-$7 a tube.
If you use the cheap acrylic stuff it will shrink over time and you don't want that in your beer.

I would seek out an alternative container rather than messing with it.
Look for containers with recycle code 1 and they are everywhere; Minute Maid OJ, V8 Juice, ect...

RingoShoe,
i started with a MrB myself, and had similar concerns about the lack of airlock, and after one brew, (even before it was completely fermented) had gotten a 2 gallon brew bucket from northern brewer (roughly $6) and had my second brew going in it.

I am limited on space that i can devote to brewing, small house, small kitchen, and brewing small batches works the best for me. I'm getting 1.5gallon yields from my 2 gallon buckets, and have two or 3 going at a time, so i have a wide variety of homebrews at any given time.

happy brewing!

I've already acquired a couple of buckets to insist in my other endeavors, but I hate to waste a perfectly good tool when all it needs is just a little modification (and I have a Tim Taylor-esque drive to 'fix' things like that... )

Ringoshoe said:

I've decided that I really don't like the Mr. Beer's unregulated airlock. Aside from being a little bit jury rigged, would there be any problem with using a little silicone or the like to seal up the notches, then punch a hole in the lid, add a grommet, and use a regular air lock?

I really don't like the fact that once fermentation has stopped, there's nothing stopping changing air pressure from pushing oxygen into the keg.

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Have you actually used it yet?

Ringoshoe said:

I've already acquired a couple of buckets to insist in my other endeavors, but I hate to waste a perfectly good tool when all it needs is just a little modification (and I have a Tim Taylor-esque drive to 'fix' things like that... )

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Considering how well that always seemed to work for the tool man, I'd say you should consider carefully whether you want to "fix" something that isn't broken.

bpgreen said:

Considering how well that always seemed to work for the tool man, I'd say you should consider carefully whether you want to "fix" something that isn't broken.

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I agree.
It is not broken, it is designed like that to idiot proof the fermentor because many of their customers will not fully read the instructions or take an interest in brewing like we have. No fumbling with airlocks, No risk of suckback, No worry about the airlock going dry, No risk of explosion due to clogged airlock (or lack of vent), Fewer parts to loose and sanitize, etc...
Downside is oxygenation toward the end of fermentation. You can minimize this by placing it in a draft free location like a closet or cabinet.
To ease your worries, purchase a hydrometer and bottle as soon as you determine that the primary fermentation is complete.

bpgreen said:

Considering how well that always seemed to work for the tool man, I'd say you should consider carefully whether you want to "fix" something that isn't broken.

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Well, as much as I hate to let it go, I've finally decided _against_ hanging a turbo-charged diesel engine under the air lock cap. As strange as it may sound, 'more power' is not always the answer...

Kealia said:

Have you actually used it yet?

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Yes, I've got my second batch of beer bubbling away right now. I actually have two kits, having picked up the complete super deluxe kits on a woot.com sale, because with what I knew about brewing then, despite what the instructions said, I knew I wanted to rack into a secondary. It was while it was sitting there in the secondary for a couple weeks that I started thinking about what the open vents would mean in terms of gas exchange and even then I was already beyond Mr. Beer's 'ready to bottle and go after 2 weeks' approach, but there's nothing else wrong with the kegs, and the taps are so convenient. I'd rather re purpose them so they fit my requirements than just let them sit.

Ok, if I understand you correctly then you're also using the LBK (little brown keg) as a secondary? If so, I would agree then - I wouldn't do it because it's not airtight. If we're talking about for primary (even a long one) I certainly wouldn't worry about it - and don't.

Cheers.

Home woot has Mr. Beer Kits today for $25 shipped, including liter bottles:

http://home.woot.com/

I started out with Mr. Beer that I got for Christmas. I would have to say that it was the best Christmas gift I ever got! It got me into the homebrew game and now I'm a homebrew addict. I still use it for brewing 2 gallon test batches. It's the perfect solution for testing new processes and ingredients. I will say that I did add an airlock to mine though because I'm a tinkerer and could leave it alone

I would not hesitate at all to recommend Mr. Beer to anyone interested in getting into homebrewing. You won't be out a bunch of cash if you find it's not your bag and if you get addicted you can still use it for years. In my opinion Mr. Beer is a win win deal. But if you get the kit read up on the brewing process it is far to simplified in their instructions in my opinion. Anyone who starts homebrewing should get John Palmer's How to Brew book it's as important as the equipment. Join HBT because ANY question you could ever have can be answered here.

But be warned once you start brewing your own beer you will become HOPELESSLY addicted! When you taste the awesome fruits of your labors there will be no turning back! You will find yourself thinking what if I added this or what if I tried that. Suddenly you'll see all kinds of new toys when your at the store shopping. Stainless steel will take on a whole new meaning in your life. So be warned this is one of the awesomest most fun hobbies!

I've never brewed with anything but Mr. Beer. And I've finally taken the plunge and upgraded to real equipment. Currently waiting for it to arrive, and can't wait.

I made a few batches with Mr. Beer that I really liked, and got some great feedback from friends who tried it. Two that come to mind are a blackberry ale and a chocolate ale. They weren't perfect...but they were certainly better than a lot of beers I've bought in stores.

I just tried my Mr. Beer WCPA that I've had bottling for 2 weeks and it was extremely sweet. The beer had what seemed like the perfect carbonation, it was just too sweet for my taste. I'm just curious if that sweetness will subside if I let them sit for several weeks longer? I know time will cure most things, but I haven't been able to find much on sweet flavors. Either way I think some Apfelwein is in my brewing future...

The sweetness will not completely go away.
A few factors could have played into it being too sweet; you won't know for sure until you buy a hydrometer.

Many extracts finish with a high FG that will give it a bigger body and taste sweet.
For the Mr.Beer kits; you don't need to boil them long, 10-15 min max.
Just enough to sterilize them and mix together well. The longer you boil extract the higher risk you place on caramelizing (unfermentable) it so the FG will go up.

The other thing to consider is the age of the HME. Hop bitterness in these pre-hopped cans will decline over time. So the older the can the sweeter it will be.

I got about 30 pages into this thread before I realized it would take me forever to get caught up haha.

Another new brewer here. A few college friends and I wanted to get into it. I know the Mr. Beer kits aren't the best, and knew that well before I ordered them, but went for it anyways. I got three for $60--bottles included--so I'm not gonna complain that I have some kits that I'll be able to take with me when I leave town for the summer.

I brewed my first 3 batches on the 13th. None of them were done without SOME kind of alteration to the original WCPA. Eventually, I'll get into the 5 gal brewing sets, but it's not practical until I live somewhere a little more permanent.

No questions really--I found this by making sure the krausen forming was normal. I thought my batches had gotten infected

Thanks for the thread and the site. I hope to be around more.

Yeah, kreusen can look pretty funky.

I ferment my MrB keg-thingie inside a cooler with ice bottles and cold packs to keep it about 10 degrees below ambient temperature. That's a nice way to keep brewing in the summer, and a big benefit as compared to brewing bigger batches.

Welcome to the obsession, BDub!

Justibone said:

I ferment my MrB keg-thingie inside a cooler with ice bottles and cold packs to keep it about 10 degrees below ambient temperature. That's a nice way to keep brewing in the summer, and a big benefit as compared to brewing bigger batches.

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I do the same thing with the Mr Beer keg and it works great even out in AZ. I have just switched to 5 gallon All-grain batches after making a total of 4 Mr Beer kits. The swamp cooler method in a rubbermaid tub and frozen bottles worked just as well on the larger batches, if not better. I would not submerge the LBK since it has a spigot though.

OClairBrew said:

I do the same thing with the Mr Beer keg and it works great even out in AZ. I have just switched to 5 gallon All-grain batches after making a total of 4 Mr Beer kits. The swamp cooler method in a rubbermaid tub and frozen bottles worked just as well on the larger batches, if not better. I would not submerge the LBK since it has a spigot though.

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I've done the water bath thing with my 5 gallon batches. It works just fine, of course, and makes a good, clean beer. The issue is one of convenience, and stuff growing in the water. Dumping out all that water is a major pain! (I don't dump it down the tub drain, since our tub drain is what I would call "sensitive".)

Others might not have my issues.

With the MrB keg, though, it's a dry system. A Coleman(tm) cooler fits the keg nicely, with room for three frozen water bottles and a cool pack. I wouldn't submerge MrB either, but the dry system is a lot neater and less mess/fuss, plus SWMBO likes how it fits neatly and quietly in a corner, as opposed to sitting in our tub for two weeks. (If you have a house instead of an apartment, you have more room, and if you have a basement then you are golden. Us, we're city-dwellers.)

I do agree the cooler method is super simple and works great. I have found that with one 2 liter bottle I can get the temps down 10-15 degress below ambient with swapping for a fresh bottle 1-2 times a day. The water bath is not as easy and I have experienced what you have. I am still using the Mr Beer (making apfelwein with it at the moment), but I was drinking it faster than I could make it so it made sense for me to upscale.

I'm just starting brewing for the first time and I can't decide how to get started. Should I go with the Mr. Beer?

For the price, ease of use and size I say yes. It will teach you the basics without overwhelming you.

You'll get a million suggestions on how to make it better, but let me start with the easiest one. If you buy a kit, they typically come with the West Coast Pale Ale (WCPA) and a pack of Booster. Replace the Booster with a can of the Pale UME and then follow the rest of the directions as far as heating and mixing and you'll be much happier.

Temp control and sanitization will be your best friends.
And extend the timing to: ferment for 2 weeks. Leave for AT LEAST 2 weeks in the bottle at room temp before chilling.

And read - lots.

Kealia said:

For the price, ease of use and size I say yes. It will teach you the basics without overwhelming you.

You'll get a million suggestions on how to make it better, but let me start with the easiest one. If you buy a kit, they typically come with the West Coast Pale Ale (WCPA) and a pack of Booster. Replace the Booster with a can of the Pale UME and then follow the rest of the directions as far as heating and mixing and you'll be much happier.

Temp control and sanitization will be your best friends.
And extend the timing to: ferment for 2 weeks. Leave for AT LEAST 2 weeks in the bottle at room temp before chilling.

And read - lots.

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That's great, thank you. I can see how so many people here say that this ends up being a time consuming hobby. I haven't even started brewing yet and I have already spent at least a few hours just reading about it! Time to take the plunge and get started.

Kealia said:

For the price, ease of use and size I say yes. It will teach you the basics without overwhelming you.

You'll get a million suggestions on how to make it better, but let me start with the easiest one. If you buy a kit, they typically come with the West Coast Pale Ale (WCPA) and a pack of Booster. Replace the Booster with a can of the Pale UME and then follow the rest of the directions as far as heating and mixing and you'll be much happier.

Temp control and sanitization will be your best friends.
And extend the timing to: ferment for 2 weeks. Leave for AT LEAST 2 weeks in the bottle at room temp before chilling.

And read - lots.

Click to expand...

Buy a hydrometer; best tool you will own as a homebrewer.

I didn't start using a hydrometer until I started making 5 gal. batches. Since the Mr. Beer keg is so small, I felt like any loss to the hydro tube was too much. UME is Unhopped Malt Extract. I'll see Kealia's two weeks and raise her one week. I think you should leave it for three and three. Read, like she said...
Welcome to the addiction. Pete

Yeah, if I were being 100% honest with my input I'd say ferment for 2, carb/condition for room temp for 4 total and then sit in fridge for a week before tasting but we all know that nobody has that patience for their first outing so I was trying to be realistic

I recently used DME to replace booster in recent batches of Cowboy Golden Lager and Classic American Blonde Ale. I drew a hydrometer sample after 3 weeks to check to see if I'm approaching FG.

Both samples had small brown floaties which I assume is undissolved DME. Will these fall out of suspension in the bottle, or is there something else I need to do?

Thanks for all the help