EBAY Temp control

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Stauffbier

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2011
Messages
5,087
Reaction score
1,060
Location
El Paso
So, to my excitement I received my STC-1000 today. When I opened the box my excitement turned to despair. They sent me a 220VAC instead of the 110VAC that was on the product description of my order. Now I gotta figure out how to get this thing back to the seller in China and get the correct controller. Very depressing! So much for having my ferm chamber ready by next weekend! Have any of you had this problem?
 
I had the same thing happened from Mixdtea or something. He was polite about it and shipped me the new ones immediately.
 
Poke around, I want to say someone took one apart and they are rated for both just at different amperages
 
Um, whether it's rated for both depends on what sort of power supply it has in it.

I haven't bought an STC-1000, but my 110v WH-7016c - which looks awful similar, like same designer and factory similar, has a 110v to 12v transformer in it, and then a 5v regulator for the logic bits.

If the STC-1000 220v version has a 220v->12v transformer, with no 110v tap on the transformer (meaning we can't cut some traces and solder some wires to convert it), hooking it up to 110v might result in ~6v on the low voltage side, which would be enough to power the logic but perhaps not enough to throw the relays on and off.

If you post high resolution pictures of both sides of the board, I can tell you if it's likely to work or can easily be converted.

But yes, in my experience, chinese ebay sellers often fall into two categories. 1: Sellers who resolve your problem double-quick with no questions asked, 2: Sellers who don't give a crap until you threaten negative feedback, and then resolve your problem double-quick.
 
Poke around, I want to say someone took one apart and they are rated for both just at different amperages
I was wondering about this..

If you post high resolution pictures of both sides of the board, I can tell you if it's likely to work or can easily be converted.

But yes, in my experience, chinese ebay sellers often fall into two categories. 1: Sellers who resolve your problem double-quick with no questions asked, 2: Sellers who don't give a crap until you threaten negative feedback, and then resolve your problem double-quick.

I sent them a message a couple hours ago. I'll give them a couple days to respond, before I take it up with Ebay. If I get stuck with it I'll definitely post photos to see if you can help me out!

Thanks Friends!
 
I was wondering about this..



I sent them a message a couple hours ago. I'll give them a couple days to respond, before I take it up with Ebay. If I get stuck with it I'll definitely post photos to see if you can help me out!

Thanks Friends!

It's very possible. A lot of transformers are dual-primary - meaning that they have two 110v primary coils. If you wire them end to end you can apply 220v, or wire them in parallel for 110v.

But the transformer in my wh-7016c is single-primary.

It's also possible that they have a full-range switching power supply like my cheap PID does. But they would probably advertise that if they did.
 
I've seen some of these on Ebay that say "220 or 110", but the one I bought was listed as 110. I'm thinking they make them with all three options (110, 220, or dual).. I don't want to play around with it out of fear I might hurt it and mess up my chances of getting a refund. I looked to see if I could open it to post photos, but I would have to cut the schematic sticker that's on it. I guess I just have to wait and see what sort of response I get from the seller..
 
If the STC-1000 220v version has a 220v->12v transformer, with no 110v tap on the transformer (meaning we can't cut some traces and solder some wires to convert it), hooking it up to 110v might result in ~6v on the low voltage side, which would be enough to power the logic but perhaps not enough to throw the relays on and off.
This would be the outcome you get enough juice to power the unit but not enough to throw the relays. I made a mistake and purchased from the wrong vendor that only was selling the 220v versions so i was sol sending it back to get the 110v version. I wasn't the only one because there where a few group buys going on last year to get replacement transformers to convert it to 110v. It was a pretty simple solder job to replace it and the transformers where pretty cheap but the places that sold them had a minimum order so you had to order multiple transformers at a time.
 
So, they responded. For $5.00 shipping they will send the proper controller and let me keep the 220 one. I guess I can live with that. Maybe I will indeed try to modify the 220 one for my future keezer build...
 
This would be the outcome you get enough juice to power the unit but not enough to throw the relays. I made a mistake and purchased from the wrong vendor that only was selling the 220v versions so i was sol sending it back to get the 110v version. I wasn't the only one because there where a few group buys going on last year to get replacement transformers to convert it to 110v. It was a pretty simple solder job to replace it and the transformers where pretty cheap but the places that sold them had a minimum order so you had to order multiple transformers at a time.

Another option would be to remove the transformer, jumper across the through-holes it used to sit in, and power it with a 12vac or 12vdc wall-wart.

Cutting a trace and inserting a diode and capacitor as a voltage doubler on the low voltage side might work too. BUT if the transformer isn't marked as being compatible with 60hz power (many countries use 50hz power), there is a small risk of fire. It also might not be able to service enough current for the relay coil, which would result in fast on/off switching, or just unreliable operation.
 
Take that deal, when the 110 model comes, look at the way the transformer is wired, and copy it on the 220 one. Two for the price of one + $5. Win :)
 
Take that deal, when the 110 model comes, look at the way the transformer is wired, and copy it on the 220 one. Two for the price of one + $5. Win :)

If the circuitry is the same in both, then I'd say this is a genius idea!
 
It is, the difference is the wiring tabs on the transformer, I've wired transformers for both 220, and 110. just different tabs. I would be seriously embarrassed if the 110 unit you receive is not identical to the 220 one except for the wire locations on the transformer. It will cost you $5 to find out :D
 
It is, the difference is the wiring tabs on the transformer, I've wired transformers for both 220, and 110. just different tabs. I would be seriously embarrassed if the 110 unit you receive is not identical to the 220 one except for the wire locations on the transformer. It will cost you $5 to find out :D

like i said - it might be a transformer with a single 220v primary. but i don't live in a country with 220v mains power so i have no idea how common that is. Living as i do in a country with 110v power i am used to seeing a lot of iron with dual primaries like you suggest. Especially in board-mounted transformers.
 
Well, I hope I can use it for something. If not I'll sell it to someone in the UK or some place they use 220..
 
So I think I just accidentally ordered the 220 and its shipping on the way now. Can someone fill me in on my mod options, I have access and skill to replace a transformer or wire in a 12v supply. Need info on what transformers I can use to replace it(model #), or what shortage I need on the 12v wall wart.
 
So I think I just accidentally ordered the 220 and its shipping on the way now. Can someone fill me in on my mod options, I have access and skill to replace a transformer or wire in a 12v supply. Need info on what transformers I can use to replace it(model #), or what shortage I need on the 12v wall wart.

I haven't modified mine yet, so I can't help. I'm still waiting for the correct 110 model to arrive. It's funny that the wrong one showed up in 11 days, but the right one can take up to 6 weeks according to the shipper! I'm not a happy boy at the moment!
 
I know I've seen a post on here that shows how to wire a new, cheap transformer to turn a 220V model into a 110V model.

If you can find it i would be eternally grateful, i have tried a myriad of searchs and i cant find anything with specifics. I actually ended up getting mine through NewEgg, so i'd be disappointed of a US company is actually selling 220V ones..its whats in the description though...

Mad at myself because i knew this before ordering, and i even ignored other sites because it was listed as 220V...then I just ordered this one and didnt even think to look because it was in the US.
 
If you can find it i would be eternally grateful, i have tried a myriad of searchs and i cant find anything with specifics. I actually ended up getting mine through NewEgg, so i'd be disappointed of a US company is actually selling 220V ones..its whats in the description though...

Mad at myself because i knew this before ordering, and i even ignored other sites because it was listed as 220V...then I just ordered this one and didnt even think to look because it was in the US.

I foudn one with the transformer removed and a 12VDC wall wart to power it. I'll keep looking. That might be the thread I am remembering.
 
Back
Top