Arduino, PID, or other?

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Islandboy85

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M set on going electric in the future. I don't need automation of the entire process. I do however want better temperature control. That having been said, what is the advantage or one system over the other? PIDs cost about $45 each, but one Arduino with a display is under $30. The SSRs, temp sensors, etc are going to meet to be purchased regardless of the system, so I was wondering why someone would go with one over the other.
 
M set on going electric in the future. I don't need automation of the entire process. I do however want better temperature control. That having been said, what is the advantage or one system over the other? PIDs cost about $45 each, but one Arduino with a display is under $30. The SSRs, temp sensors, etc are going to meet to be purchased regardless of the system, so I was wondering why someone would go with one over the other.
Just a serious suggestion. Choose wisely and go with a very reliable vendor that backs his products. Auber Instruments is that vendor IMHO.

Also plan on your future adventure. In other words - choose a PID that can handle your adventure down your road of automated brewing. This product is my strong suggestion. SYL-2352

I've posted a lot of diagrams on this forum that might help you. Do a search and you might find one that fits your plan.

Wishing you the best.

P-J
 
P-J said:
Just a serious suggestion. Choose wisely and go with a very reliable vendor that backs his products. Auber Instruments is that vendor IMHO.

Also plan on your future adventure. In other words - choose a PID that can handle your adventure down your road of automated brewing. This product is my strong suggestion. SYL-2352

I've posted a lot of diagrams on this forum that might help you. Do a search and you might find one that fits your plan.

Wishing you the best.

P-J

That was the Auber PID I was considering. I'm curious about the ease of use of an Arduino. We have Love PIDs on our vacuum ovens in our composite shop at work and other equipment. They seem straight foreword how they work. I'm thinking the Arduino looks a bit harder to master, but seems like I could expand the brewery a lot more, but I don't foresee myself doing that. I still like a hands in approach. I just want more control of temps.
 
I'm sorry. I read Arduino in your initial post. That is a totally different path down this road.

I'm out and apologize for the interruption and diversion...

P-J
 
P-J said:
I'm sorry. I read Arduino in your initial post. That is a totally different path down this road.

I'm out and apologize for the interruption and diversion...

P-J

No, it's cool. I'm just wondering what each mehod is capable of, costs, and any other reason people chose them.
 
No, it's cool. I'm just wondering what each mehod is capable of, costs, and any other reason people chose them.
Reliability. Backup. Support. Ability for precision control. A boat load of brewers that use the product. Diagrams for wiring it in a brew system. (A lot of 'em drawn by me.)

Sorry for spouting off.

BTW: I'm not affiliated in any way with Auber Instruments. I just think he brings a superior product to the brewers table with awesome suport.

So sorry.. I'm done and out of here with my opinions.

My sincere apologies to you for side tracking your thread.

P-J
 
P-J said:
Reliability. Backup. Support. Ability for precision control. A boat load of brewers that use the product. Diagrams for wiring it in a brew system. (A lot of 'em drawn by me.)

Sorry for spouting off.

BTW: I'm not affiliated in any way with Auber Instruments. I just think he brings a superior product to the brewers table with awesome suport.

So sorry.. I'm done and out of here with my opinions.

My sincere apologies to you for side tracking your thread.

P-J

Yeah, the wiring is easy for me to figure out. I've been googling to see if there is a ready to go code for the Arduino, but haven't really found what I'm looking for. I don't know code, so I think that may sink the Arduino for me. It does look cool, just too hard to learn for now.
 
As far as I know, the brewtroller code is written for the arduino as it is basically the same hardware. You can learn a lot from the brewtroller forums in regards to the Arduino's capability.

Or you may be interested in just using the brewtroller as you controller.

Link: http://www.brewtroller.com
 
As far as I know, the brewtroller code is written for the arduino as it is basically the same hardware. You can learn a lot from the brewtroller forums in regards to the Arduino's capability.

Or you may be interested in just using the brewtroller as you controller.

Link: http://www.brewtroller.com

You won't be able to implement the full brewtroller code on the current arduino uno. You may be able to get it to work for the mega, but it's written for their hardware.

You could definitely use an Arduino as a part of your build, and depending on the size and complexity of your rig it may be able to handle all of the control duties. You can also use it in conjunction with a computer to handle I/O duties over USB or wireless if you want to really get into it. You will also need to design and construct external circuits to drive any additional hardware.

I am currently building a single vessel 5 gal rig with an Arduino. There are some useful libraries out there for PID functionality, temp sensor reading, displays, etc. but you'll have to write your own code. That said, it's not hard to learn at all. When I started 7 weeks ago I had zero programming experience and I now have the first version of the code completed.

I also have a completed 2-vessel brewery using auber PIDs. They are good units, and orders of magnitude simpler to get running, but they also have limited functionality. The basic model doesn't do temperature ramps, which is something I wish I had now. Also, while the alarm relay could be used to trigger events beyond an alarm, you will need to implement whatever logic should follow with additional circuitry or add a uC.

Basically, the auber PIDs are very good at controlling power to the element, but don't do much else. The arduino can do a lot more, but comes at the cost of a significant time investment and will require more complex wiring, as well as knowledge of low voltage circuits.

If I had it to do over again I would have skipped the auber PIDs on my two vessel brewery and built it around an arduino (Mega for that one).
 
trigger said:
You won't be able to implement the full brewtroller code on the current arduino uno. You may be able to get it to work for the mega, but it's written for their hardware.

You could definitely use an Arduino as a part of your build, and depending on the size and complexity of your rig it may be able to handle all of the control duties. You can also use it in conjunction with a computer to handle I/O duties over USB or wireless if you want to really get into it. You will also need to design and construct external circuits to drive any additional hardware.

I am currently building a single vessel 5 gal rig with an Arduino. There are some useful libraries out there for PID functionality, temp sensor reading, displays, etc. but you'll have to write your own code. That said, it's not hard to learn at all. When I started 7 weeks ago I had zero programming experience and I now have the first version of the code completed.

I also have a completed 2-vessel brewery using auber PIDs. They are good units, and orders of magnitude simpler to get running, but they also have limited functionality. The basic model doesn't do temperature ramps, which is something I wish I had now. Also, while the alarm relay could be used to trigger events beyond an alarm, you will need to implement whatever logic should follow with additional circuitry or add a uC.

Basically, the auber PIDs are very good at controlling power to the element, but don't do much else. The arduino can do a lot more, but comes at the cost of a significant time investment and will require more complex wiring, as well as knowledge of low voltage circuits.

If I had it to do over again I would have skipped the auber PIDs on my two vessel brewery and built it around an arduino (Mega for that one).

I can build prototype circuits easily, am used to mostly DC wiring since it's what I work around on airplanes, but my geek side is well... It's special. It doesn't learn quickly or retain much. I tried to learn code for those stupid graphing calculators I had in high school and it was an epic failure.

In pieced together an electric rims brewery package from http://www.oscsys.com/home.php and it's not really that much more than an all PID system. That being said I'll be using a pulse wave modulator for the boil kettle probably because, let's face it it's like a stove top. I might do it to the hot liquor tank, too. The mash is the biggest issue I have while brewing right now. I really don't need much to solve my problems, but as I look at upgrading I'd like to only do it once. I'm married and the upgrade to electric will be a stretch probably. I'm sure I'm the first to experience that brewery finance argument though. Lol.
 
IF you are willing to spend some time learning the arduino and don't need complex automation then the arduino uno will be able to handle exactly what you want to do for much cheaper than the brewtroller or an all PID system. If you go this route you can easily implement PID control of your HLT, which is beneficial as it's mostly fire and forget. However, as I said before, it will require a more significant time investment than a PID/PWM system. The benefit will be the flexibility. You can start with very basic functionality, and add in features as you would like by simply connecting to a computer and uploading a new sketch once you've written and tested it.

As an example for my current setup I've got it on a very simple 2sec window PWM output for boil control with an integrated timer that triggers an alarm for 4 hop additions and cuts power at the end of the timer. That is running great (on the mockup, still waiting on parts for the physical build). I have a spare arduino and have built a breadboard prototype system with LEDs' to simulate outputs for testing new code. I'm currently working on a more complex boil function that heats at 100% to just before boiling, triggers an alarm and cuts power to maintain 208 F until an action by the user. This is to prevent boilovers and key the first hop addition. Then the boil progresses for the set time, triggering alarms at hop times as set by the user at the beginning of the brew session. After the boil timer expires the final alarm is triggered, power is cut and whirlpooling begins. Once I've got this bit all working I'll be able to upload it to the arduino and away I go.

The brewtroller will allow a lot more functionality, and it'll work well right out of the box. You'll have to do some learning, but as there's already a community for it the learning curve will be much shorter than if you were to try to do it all on your own. Also, the brewtroller has all the functionality built right into it, you just have to set it up properly for your system. Unless you start with an arduino Mega you won't be able to achieve the flexibility of the brewtroller, and a PID/PWM system won't be able to come close to either in terms of automation.

All of that said, the simplicity of a PID/PWM system is a definate strength. There is less to go wrong, and they are much easier to implement. With a system like Kal's any experienced brewer should be able to learn how to run the whole thing with about 5 mins training.
 
I went with an arduino and totally automated the system. Look at my build here.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
trigger's posts are a good summary of my thoughts...

I use a very early Brewtroller today with a propane-fired system and I'm looking at going electric now and possibly switching over to an Arduino Mega.

For me, playing with the Arduino is as much of a hobby as brewing. I have a few of them around the house doing various things (one manages my keg cooler and fermentation chamber).

With the Arduino, there's no shortage of sample code available; much of the Brewtroller code could be usable for you too. Things that may seem difficult at first (connecting up an LCD and getting data to it, getting temperature sensor readings) are relatively easy once you start playing with it.

In the end, you can make it as simple or complicated as you want with the Arduino.
 
I love the hot plate RIMS. That could save me a bundle. Does it have enough power to do a 10 gallon batch?

This is a Pasta/Noodle maker, I picked up at a local Chinese supermarket for $25 :mug:. The appliance is rated at 1000W(raises about 1.5F per minute for a 4 gallon recirculating mash). It handles the temperatures very well for the 5 gallon batch. But, during the Sac Rest to Mash out, there is a ~18F difference and this appliance takes about 15-20 minutes to raise the 18F. Hope that makes sense. I have explained it in the 2nd video.

Just one more tip, I took a silicone(food grade) tube and inserted a DS18B20 IC into it for the temperature sensor and sealed it using food grade silicone adhesive. Finally, I used a clip and made the IC dip into the recirculating wort. This is a good sensor which will give you about .1F precision.

To answer your question, this may maintain the mash at set temperature for the 10 gallon batch, but during the Sac to Mach out, it will have a problem. I would advice you to go for a device with at least 1500W and that should take care of it.

My entire post with details is here...
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/brewmigo-my-all-grain-electric-brewery-306571/
 
simba123 said:
This is a Pasta/Noodle maker, I picked up at a local Chinese supermarket for $25 :mug:. The appliance is rated at 1000W(raises about 1.5F per minute for a 4 gallon recirculating mash). It handles the temperatures very well for the 5 gallon batch. But, during the Sac Rest to Mash out, there is a ~18F difference and this appliance takes about 15-20 minutes to raise the 18F. Hope that makes sense. I have explained it in the 2nd video.

Just one more tip, I took a silicone(food grade) tube and inserted a DS18B20 IC into it for the temperature sensor and sealed it using food grade silicone adhesive. Finally, I used a clip and made the IC dip into the recirculating wort. This is a good sensor which will give you about .1F precision.

To answer your question, this may maintain the mash at set temperature for the 10 gallon batch, but during the Sac to Mach out, it will have a problem. I would advice you to go for a device with at least 1500W and that should take care of it.

My entire post with details is here...
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/brewmigo-my-all-grain-electric-brewery-306571/

Good to know. I may end up having to make a normal RIMS tube then because hot plates that big cost just as much if not more.
 
I went with arduino as I like the DIY side of it.

As for the programation, there example basicly for everything you will want to do.
Ex: Runing the LCD, reading the Ds18b20 sensor, Runing the PWM output.
All you have to do after that is merging everything in one program.
I went pretty simple as I only drive my 1500W/120V HLT with it, I got the LCD, a pot for adjustment, and a button.
I program 2 menu on the LCD, one is showing HLT in auto mode info (temp reading, output and set point), one the HLT in manual mode showing temp and output.

When I'll got the 4500W element for the BK, I'll add a menu to set the output in manual for the boiller.
 
Islandboy keep your head up, I found it daunting when I started but after a couple of months I have a good idea about programming the arduino. If you want plug and play then go for a PID but if you want to go for the custom look then use the arduino.The good thing about the arduino is you can build what you want, you can add a number of temperature probes( not just one like the PID) and you can control a number of outputs Here is a simple code for a thermostat that is PID controlled, it has all the building blocks you will need.

//a simple thermostat
#include <LiquidCrystal.h>
#include <OneWire.h>
#include <PID_v1.h>
OneWire ds(11);
LiquidCrystal lcd(2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7);
//*push*buttons
const int Button_up = A3;
const int Button_dn = A2;
const int Button_prev = A1;
const int Button_nxt = A0;
const int Heat = 9;
// variables
int WindowSize = 5000;
unsigned long windowStartTime;
double Setpoint, Input, Output;
boolean Start = false;
boolean Conv_start = false;
float set_temp = 20;
float Temp_c;
int temp;
byte data[2];
byte i;
byte Busy = 0;
//Specify the links and initial tuning parameters
PID myPID(&Input, &Output, &Setpoint,200,5,3, DIRECT);

void setup(void)
{
// Start up the library
l
cd.begin(16,2);
pinMode (Button_up,INPUT);
pinMode (Button_dn,INPUT);
pinMode (Button_prev,INPUT);
pinMode (Button_nxt,INPUT);
pinMode (Heat,OUTPUT);
windowStartTime = millis();
//tell the PID to range between 0 and the full window size
myPID.SetOutputLimits(0, WindowSize);
myPID.SetMode(AUTOMATIC);
}
void loop(void)
{
Temperature();
Setpoint = set_temp*16;
Input = Temp_c * 16;
lcd.setCursor(0,0);
lcd.print("Set Temp =");
lcd.setCursor(10,0);
lcd.print(set_temp);
lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
lcd.print("Temp =");
lcd.setCursor(7,1);
lcd.print(Temp_c);
if (!(digitalRead(Button_up))&& !(Start))
{
while (digitalRead(Button_up)==0){
}
set_temp= set_temp+0.25;
}
if (!(digitalRead(Button_dn))&& !(Start))
{
while (digitalRead(Button_dn)==0){
}
set_temp= set_temp-0.25;
}
if (digitalRead(Button_prev)==0)
{
while (digitalRead(Button_prev)==0){
}
Start = true;
}
if (digitalRead(Button_nxt)==0)
{
while (digitalRead(Button_nxt)==0){
}
Start = false;
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
}
if (Start)
{
PID_HEAT();
}

}
void Temperature(void)
{
ds.reset();
ds.skip();
// start conversion and return
if (!(Conv_start)){
ds.write(0x44,0);
Conv_start = true;
return;
}
// check for conversion if it isn't complete return if it is then convert to decimal
if (Conv_start){
Busy = ds.read_bit();
if (Busy == 0){
return;
}
ds.reset();
ds.skip();
ds.write(0xBE);
for ( i = 0; i < 2; i++) { // we need 2 bytes
data = ds.read();
}
unsigned int raw = (data[1] << 8) + data[0];
Temp_c = (raw & 0xFFFC) * 0.0625;
Conv_start = false;
return;
}
return;
}
void PID_HEAT (void){
myPID.Compute();
/************************************************
turn the output pin on/off based on pid output
***************************************************/
unsigned long now = millis();
if(now - windowStartTime>WindowSize)
{ //time to shift the Relay Window
windowStartTime += WindowSize;
}
if(Output > now - windowStartTime) digitalWrite(Heat,HIGH);
else digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);

return;


}



the code is in deg c because that's what we use down here so you will have to use a formula to change it to deg F.

cheers steve

thermostat.jpg
 
I just started my automation using a NetDuino product which is basically an Arduino that runs Microsoft's .NETMF framework. I just happen to do C# dev and wanted something that I was a bit more familiar with.

I can tell you that I've found code snippets for just about anything I need to do brewery-wise including rooting through the Brewtroller code.

It's definitely more of a hobby.. If I had wanted a no-code system I would have gone with the BCS-460. I've seen that in action and it's really sweet.

I would have gone with the Brewtroller if I hadn't wanted to screw with coding in C# -- but the NETMF hardware I picked up is really nice and has a 4" touch screen I'm using to provide menus and real interactivity.

It's a daunting task. I've been assembling my RIMS, tuning my PID code, and generally working on this thing for a few weeks.
 
matho said:
Islandboy keep your head up, I found it daunting when I started but after a couple of months I have a good idea about programming the arduino. If you want plug and play then go for a PID but if you want to go for the custom look then use the arduino.The good thing about the arduino is you can build what you want, you can add a number of temperature probes( not just one like the PID) and you can control a number of outputs Here is a simple code for a thermostat that is PID controlled, it has all the building blocks you will need.

the code is in deg c because that's what we use down here so you will have to use a formula to change it to deg F.

cheers steve

Wow, thanks for the help. A guy I grew up with who is a computer geek extraordinaire recommended I start with writing out a pseudo code. This is what I've got so far...any thoughts?

Brewery pseudo code

HOT LIQUOR TANK:
-User inputs set temperature using control panel buttons and initiates program start.
-Arduino check float switch status: if switch is open it is an unsafe condition to heat. Sound alarm for one second every minute. Display and flash "FLOAT" on LCD display in the bottom row and flash the HLT actual temp <H set 175 act 100> on the first row and <FLOAT> on the lowest row. If float switch is closed continue to next program step.
-Compare set temp to actual temp. If set temp is higher than actual temp by 1 degree outpost to pin ( ) to cycle heating element on at 80% duty cycle. Recompare set and actual temp. If set>actual continue to heat. Loop until set temp is achieved. When set temp is achieved sound alarm for 1 second and flash actual temp on the LCD display on and off once a second for 15 seconds. Maintain temp of HLT. Until canceled by control panel buttons or float switch opens.

MASH LAUTER TUN:
-User inputs set temperature using control panel buttons and initiates program start.
-Arduino checks for voltage to pump relay. If there is voltage present it is safe to heat.
if switch is open it is an unsafe condition to heat. Sound alarm for one second every minute. Display and flash "FLOAT" on LCD display in the bottom row and flash the MLT actual temp <M set 175 act 100> on the second row and <PUMP> on the lowest row.
-Compare set temp to actual temp. If set temp is higher than actual temp by 1 degree outpost to pin ( ) to cycle heating element on a 2 second duty cycle. Recompare set and actual temp. If set>actual continue to heat. Loop until set temp is achieved. When set temp is achieved sound alarm for 1 second and flash actual temp on the LCD display on and off once a second for 15 seconds. Maintain temp of MLT .Until canceled by control panel buttons or pump relay is deenergized.

BOIL KETTLE:
-User inputs set temperature using control panel buttons and initiates program start.
-Arduino check float switch status: if switch is open it is an unsafe condition to heat. Sound alarm for one second every minute. Display and flash "FLOAT" on LCD display in the bottom row and flash the BK actual temp <B set 175 act 100> on the third row and <FLOAT> on the lowest row. If float switch is closed continue to next program step.
-Compare set temp to actual temp. If actual temp is lower than 205degree outpost to pin ( ) to cycle heating element on at 90% duty cycle. Recompare set and actual temp. Loop until set temp is reaches 200 degrees. At this point change duty cycle to 80% duty cycle until 205 degrees. At this point cycle heat on for two seconds and recompare set/actual temps. When set temp is achieved sound alarm for 1 second and flash actual temp on the LCD display on and off once a second for 15 seconds. Maintain temp of BK Until canceled by control panel buttons or float switch opens.
 
Wow, thanks for the help. A guy I grew up with who is a computer geek extraordinaire recommended I start with writing out a pseudo code. This is what I've got so far...any thoughts?

I would change the way you're activating you heating elements. Look into PID algorithms. Just having an On/Off based around a target temp will cause you to bounce up and down around the target. I tried doing this at first with my MLT RIMS and was all over the page temperature-wise. and a matter of 5 degrees in the MLT does matter.

This is one of the harder things I had to wrap my head around but the basic principle is that the PID Algorithms will adjust the duty cycle to a variable the will lead you into your target temp with the goal of landing right on it, then maintain it.

The tricky part is tuning it for your exact hardware setup; but there are some decent guides on how to do that out there.

I actually based mine off of the PID code in the Brewtroller software and it's been working excellent.

-Scott
 
First thought is that you may want to reconsider the float switch. I've got one wired through one of the signal legs on the SSR controlling the element power. {Then tie the positive signal terminal to the input pin you've designated on your arduino through a 100k pulldown resistor.} That way your SSR is directly dependent on the float switch state, so bad code can't cause an unintentional misfire. You could do this with a leading edge triggering since your SSR won't always be on. In other words, at the beginning of your code look for the leading edge of a ms pulse through the SSR. If the float is open it won't see it, and that can trigger your alarm. If it is closed all is fine and move through the program.

As far as the temperature control, try using the PID library on arduino.cc.

For the pump relay bit that's just a bit of Boolean. If pump != HIGH trigger the alarm and heat = LOW.

For the boil you won't want to go with temperature. You want to use PWM control, which can be based by setting up a timer, then adjusting the proportion of the time that the element recieves heat. Just make sure that you keep in mind that the load waveform is 60 Hz. You want at least 0.5 periods to pass in the minimum power setting, assuming you're using a zero crossing SSR. This means if your minimum power is 5% (I used 5% increments) that should correspond to 1/120th of a second.

looks like your on your way though!

edit {thermo final today caused me to come up with a bit of bad wiring}
 
Here's my Basic pseudo code for my MLT, I don't have a float:

Alert user to connect MLT hoses, wait for user input
Activate Recirc Pump
Wait 30 secs
Activate PID to ramp temp to desired temperature
when mean temperature of MLT is at target for more than 3 minutes alarm user that mash-in can begin
When user confirms shut down PID and Recirc Pump
Prompt user to press button when mash in complete
start recirc pump and wait two minutes for clearing
resume PID on Ramp Schedule to re-hit target temp
when target temp re-aquired start visual mash timer
...

It's something like that. I'm at work but that's the basic jist.

Note that I manually direct fire my MLT to get it within RIMS range before I start the process.

I've only done test water batches so far; my whole automation process is far from complete but I've got the MLT code down pretty good.
 
ScottSingleton said:
I would change the way you're activating you heating elements. Look into PID algorithms. Just having an On/Off based around a target temp will cause you to bounce up and down around the target. I tried doing this at first with my MLT RIMS and was all over the page temperature-wise. and a matter of 5 degrees in the MLT does matter.

This is one of the harder things I had to wrap my head around but the basic principle is that the PID Algorithms will adjust the duty cycle to a variable the will lead you into your target temp with the goal of landing right on it, then maintain it.

-Scott

I'll look into that. I knew when I was writing the pseudo code this could be an issue, bu didn't know how to get around the overshooting issue. Thanks I'll look into that.
 
trigger said:
First thought is that you may want to reconsider the float switch. I've got one wired through one of the signal legs on the SSR controlling the element power. {Then tie the positive signal terminal to the input pin you've designated on your arduino through a 100k pulldown resistor.} That way your SSR is directly dependent on the float switch state, so bad code can't cause an unintentional misfire. You could do this with a leading edge triggering since your SSR won't always be on. In other words, at the beginning of your code look for the leading edge of a ms pulse through the SSR. If the float is open it won't see it, and that can trigger your alarm. If it is closed all is fine and move through the program.

edit {thermo final today caused me to come up with a bit of bad wiring}

You're correct. After I read what you wrote it made sense since now the float switch isn't as much part of the circuit logic as is it an actual mechanical safety if you will.
 
ScottSingleton said:
Here's my Basic pseudo code for my MLT, I don't have a float:

Alert user to connect MLT hoses, wait for user input
Activate Recirc Pump
Wait 30 secs
Activate PID to ramp temp to desired temperature
when mean temperature of MLT is at target for more than 3 minutes alarm user that mash-in can begin
When user confirms shut down PID and Recirc Pump
Prompt user to press button when mash in complete
start recirc pump and wait two minutes for clearing
resume PID on Ramp Schedule to re-hit target temp
when target temp re-aquired start visual mash timer
...

It's something like that. I'm at work but that's the basic jist.

Note that I manually direct fire my MLT to get it within RIMS range before I start the process.

I've only done test water batches so far; my whole automation process is far from complete but I've got the MLT code down pretty good.

What kind of display are you using? I've only been able to find 20 x 4 LCD displays. That is limiting me to display like this
Line one: HLT set 175 act 175
Line two: MLT set 150 act 150
Line three BK set 212 act 212
Line four: <fault messages>

I suppose I could have the alert messages like "hook up the pump" displayed there. I wonder if it would be better to have a second 20 x 2 LCD to display the fault and user action required messages on, but two displays sounds like it could get REALLY furry.
 
In my switch from propane to electric and Brewtroller to Arduino Mega, I'm looking at giving this LCD a try: http://www.adafruit.com/products/438 (just ordered it last night).

Right now my Brewtroller uses a 20x4 character display and it takes some creativity to get everything you want on it. You can always use an optical encoder to switch between "screens".

What I want to try and do with the new LCD is operate with a blue backlight normally and then use the RGB backlight to flash the backlight red when an action or alarm is occuring.

Definitely checkout what's going on over on the Brewtroller site, it may give you some ideas too.
 
What kind of display are you using? I've only been able to find 20 x 4 LCD displays. That is limiting me to display like this
Line one: HLT set 175 act 175
Line two: MLT set 150 act 150
Line three BK set 212 act 212
Line four: <fault messages>

I suppose I could have the alert messages like "hook up the pump" displayed there. I wonder if it would be better to have a second 20 x 2 LCD to display the fault and user action required messages on, but two displays sounds like it could get REALLY furry.

I'm using a 3.5" color LCD touch screen.

The exact device I'm using is here: http://www.ghielectronics.com/catalog/product/136

My basic end-game is to try and have a Brew-Magic type of system where I just send up my Beersmith recipe, it does all the steps/calcs, then reports back with actuals.
 
I should qualify that last post. I'm not looking to do one-button brewing. I do want the system to walk me through steps to make my recipes as reproducable as possible.

I don't think I'll ever get to automated liquid routing with gate valves, etc. but I do want the system to tell me to connect this/that/the other and report back with exact temps and durations.

-Scott
 
That's a nice display, a bit beyond what I'd be willing to pay at that size though.

For my setup, my end goal is to have some feedback information and basic at the LCD display but I would like to see the majority of it HTTP accessible.
 
just to give you an idea of what my display looks like this is my PID tuning screen. The kettle is empty and the RIMS is disconnected but you can see how much info I can pack in a screen.

from here I can see the continual PID duty cycle, hold temp, actual temp and live adjust the tunings.

WP_000385.jpg
 
I went with the Cobra because I wanted Integrated USB and SD Cards for transfer of recipes, etc. I also wanted built in ethernet so I can have the device eventually send stats to a database, etc.

I've heard great things about the FEZ panda product with the touch screen add-on. I think there's another brewer here that's developed some nice stuff on the panda.
 
Yeah, a bit pricey. This one is only $40 for a touchscreen display http://www.ghielectronics.com/catalog/product/262 any thoughts on this model?

btw that link is for the 2.5" LCD only, you still need the controller which is the FEZ Panda II I was talking about.

You get the display plus the panda for $80... not too bad.

The processor is a bit slower than the one I'm using, has a bit less ram, and doesn't have built in ethernet.

But that was my second choice -- I just wanted the support for the bigger touch screen and had a refund check to burn.
 
ScottSingleton said:
btw that link is for the 2.5" LCD only, you still need the controller which is the FEZ Panda II I was talking about.

You get the display plus the panda for $80... not too bad.

The processor is a bit slower than the one I'm using, has a bit less ram, and doesn't have built in ethernet.

But that was my second choice -- I just wanted the support for the bigger touch screen and had a refund check to burn.

Lol, well if you've got the money go big or go home :)
 
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