Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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I'd like to thank you FlyGuy for giving me all I need to do my first All Grain Batch. I got the exact same cooler and it worked. I did modify things a bit. I couldn't find a 5/8's SS Washer so I used a 3/4 SS Washer... In order to get seal I used two ruber 5/8's wasthers one inside and one out.....

I used 30" braid...I must say it got tangled up pretty good in first batch so I'm not sure if I need a shorter braid or go ahead an build a manifold....

I can't wait to taste this batch.........:mug::rockin:
 
If you can't find 5/8 ss washers, make them. Take a 1 1/2 od ss washer with a smaller hole lock it into a vise and drill out the center hole with a step drill bit to 5/8 . Cool the bit with a little wd40. Deburr the new hole (sand paper wraped around a wood dowel will work) and clean off. you will now have a 5/8 ss washer.
 
I get really bad temperature loss with this setup. Even when pre-heating the tun with boiling water. What did I do wrong?

I ran this setup for what ended up being 2 hours and at an hour and a half, it had not dropped an entire degree. Granted, it was entirely full, 24 lbs of grain. The only parts that were halfway warm were the valve and a little bit of the lid.

Were you possibly somewhere breezy?
 
I get really bad temperature loss with this setup. Even when pre-heating the tun with boiling water. What did I do wrong?

I wouldn't put boiling water in there, I don't think it's rated for that and you might get some cracking or splitting (I've seen pics of that).

How bad of a temp loss? When I put my strike water in 10F over what I want to mash it's a PITA as I don't get heat loss. I have to usually wait and keep stirring to get the temps down.

Are you using the big orange water cooler that most others are using here or a thinner walled rectangle cooler (sorry, didn't look through to see if you posted otherwise). The lid...I'm not sure it's as insulated, when it's cooler I put a folded up blanket on top to help keep the heat in but when it's 60F+ outside I get no heat loss over an hour.

Good luck.
 
Big orange water cooler. I typically lose 10F or so doughing in, then another 10F over the hour.

Makes mashout at 170 really difficult.

And nope, I'm doing this indoors.
 
I suspect nearly all of that loss is the temperature of the grain equilibrating with the water. It is probably not heat lost outside the cooler.
 
I have a 10-gallon Home Depot cooler and a 5-gallon Igloo cooler. The Igloo only loses a degree over 90 minutes. The Home Depot loses about 4F over 90 min. I open once every 15 min to stir.

I usually pre-heat with strike water 10F higher than I need. I let it sit for 10 minutes before stir-cooling it down to actual strike temp, then dough in. Are you using any sort of brewing software? BeerSmith has a section to input temp of grains. I think default is 72F, but mine are always stored at 60F so I correct that.
 
Maybe it's just bad luck or what but I've gone through two of these coolers now (10 gal) due to cracking just from tap hot water.

I just want to brew!
 
Maybe it's just bad luck or what but I've gone through two of these coolers now (10 gal) due to cracking just from tap hot water.

I just want to brew!

What kind are you rocking? I found a Coleman at Savers for $6.... it must have been at least 10 years old. Works like a friggin' champ and I've been using it for almost two years.
 
Dave,
I'll been looking into this myself. If you can afford the silicon tubing, I understand this is the best. Someone posted that McMaster had it cheaper than your LHBS but its wall is thinner and hence less expensive (under $2 / ft). Right now, I'm leaning toward 3/8 ID but 1/2" would probably be better.

I'm using a Keg with a weld on 7/8 coupling, gravity feed. Yesterday, when I was trying it out, I ran into a problem that Bobby M has talked about in the past. Because my draw tube is only 3/8 ID, there was so much air in the tube line (1" OD) that it had to be purged before I could get it to flow. Kind of a pain, so I'm thinking of reducing down right out of the coupler to 1/2 or even 3/8 ID going into the ball valve and then a barbed fitting, hence reducing the volume in the tubing line.

Would anyone else like to comment?
BB
 
Not quite as cheap as it was when the original post was started. I just got back from home depot and scored a 10g (37.99) and all the exact parts as listed for a total of $70. That did not include the fender washers I already had. Damn, plumbing parts are high these days.
 
I just built this with a 5 gallon igloo cooler from Wal-Mart $15 and all the required plumbing parts from Lowe's for about $28, INCLUDING SS fender washer 2 pack. What the heck plumbing wise did you get that you spent $70 in parts???
 
I just built this with a 5 gallon igloo cooler from Wal-Mart $15 and all the required plumbing parts from Lowe's for about $28, INCLUDING SS fender washer 2 pack. What the heck plumbing wise did you get that you spent $70 in parts???

Ummm 39 + 28 = 65 +tax

I bought the cooler 39 and my parts were around 28 as well.
 
OK, OK, same page... I thought you were stating you paid $37.99 for the cooler and $70 in parts. Gotcha...
 
I just built this with a 5 gallon igloo cooler from Wal-Mart $15 and all the required plumbing parts from Lowe's for about $28, INCLUDING SS fender washer 2 pack. What the heck plumbing wise did you get that you spent $70 in parts???

where did you get the SS washer in lowes at? general location in store I searched to no success.
 
I was in the Hardware area, going through the blue pull out drawers. I found a 2 pack of 3/4" SS fender washers that I made work... While in that area, I also further leak proofed the design by purchasing a rubber grommet to fit in the hole in the cooler wall. I then slid the ball valve/brass nipple through the grommet. I still utilized the washers, internally and externally...
 
I'm looking forward to doing this build and start stepping up my capacity for homebrew. :D I just wanted to see what the latest word on the SS hose clamps was. I saw a post early in the thread showing some corrosion but haven't seen too many listing that as an issue. I am planning to do the copper spring stiffener inside the braid and just wondering what people are finding successful. Thanks for the info!
 
Home Depot sells the 5/8 SS washers now (at least is Canada). Found them in a purple bin in their hardware section. I think they were/are $1.48 each.
 
IDK if I bought the wrong 1 inch coupler but I jumped through hoops to find a local for 5/8 fender washers and then had to drill them to 11/16 to get them to fit the coupler. My part number was the same as the original but apparently the outside dimensions have changed slightly.
 
Does anyone know if it is just Home Depot (USA) that has these coolers? I was just at the local HD and the lady said she had never heard of them, so I asked someone else and they said they have never seen them in the store...

I've ordered 3 through Home Hardware and all 3 have cracked while adding water! All in the same place (a ring around the 2 gal. mark), The first one might have been my fault I had the cooler filled with cold water to test my valve and such, then right after put hot water in it. But the other two, no way! One was luke warm water and the other a little cooler.

I know my water is hard but come on...
 
Not quite as cheap as it was when the original post was started. I just got back from home depot and scored a 10g (37.99) and all the exact parts as listed for a total of $70. That did not include the fender washers I already had. Damn, plumbing parts are high these days.

I can speak for him, but I find that Home Depot's prices on plumbing supplies are about the highest in town. I can save about 30% using Mills Fleet Farm or Menards.
 
I'm looking forward to doing this build and start stepping up my capacity for homebrew. :D I just wanted to see what the latest word on the SS hose clamps was. I saw a post early in the thread showing some corrosion but haven't seen too many listing that as an issue. I am planning to do the copper spring stiffener inside the braid and just wondering what people are finding successful. Thanks for the info!

SS Hose clamps are working fine for me.
 
SS Hose clamps are working fine for me.

Thanks BendBrewer -- I thought there would be a lot more feedback since this is such a popular thread.

I went out and bought my parts yesterday -- the stainless steel hose clamps I got are marked "Corrosion Resistant" too, so hopefully that will be enough to prevent that rusty picture from early on in this thread. With the climate we have down here in Tucson, I should be able to set my Tun outside to dry almost instantly and prevent any extra moisture from hanging around. It's a dry heat. ;)

I decided to go a bit of a different route and install a Tee inside the cooler on the end of the nipple and do a circular loop of SS braid with a coiled up pice of copper wire inside for rigidity. I'll post pictures after I do my build (hopefully next weekend). I did a quick dry fit last night and it only took about 20 minutes to get everything apart/together. Now I just have to find that 5/8" SS washer and I'll be ready to go.
 
Try these for the SS washers. They should have 10 packs.

Atore Code: AZTUC
Tucson, AZ 85713 3455 S. Palo Verde Rd. # 143
Tucson, AZ 85713
P: (520)670-1896
F: (520)670-1897


Store Code: AZTU1
Tucson, AZ 85705 4720 N. La Cholla Blvd
Tucson, AZ 85705
P: (520)-888-2571
F: (520)-888-2643
 
just bought a new braid for mine-the old one pinched itself shut after a year. It was easier to find SS braids this time, which is good news. BendBrewer, nice avatar. Love me some Kimock.
 
Thanks BendBrewer -- I thought there would be a lot more feedback since this is such a popular thread.

I went out and bought my parts yesterday -- the stainless steel hose clamps I got are marked "Corrosion Resistant" too, so hopefully that will be enough to prevent that rusty picture from early on in this thread. With the climate we have down here in Tucson, I should be able to set my Tun outside to dry almost instantly and prevent any extra moisture from hanging around. It's a dry heat. ;)

I decided to go a bit of a different route and install a Tee inside the cooler on the end of the nipple and do a circular loop of SS braid with a coiled up pice of copper wire inside for rigidity. I'll post pictures after I do my build (hopefully next weekend). I did a quick dry fit last night and it only took about 20 minutes to get everything apart/together. Now I just have to find that 5/8" SS washer and I'll be ready to go.


Guy at my LHBS said that the hose clamps themselves don't rust but that the screw that is in them will (as seen in this thread). I ended up using plastic zip ties on either end of my SS braid, and then used the SS hose clamps for when I built my wort chiller.
 
I have just used zip tyes to attach my SS braid. I think you should go that route first cause they are cheap. I don't baby my cooler MLT at all and havn't had any problems in many months of brewing.
 
Just built what might be the easiest MLT/HLT yet. It could be the cheapest also. I picked up a 48qt Igloo Marine Cooler for 24.99. Installed a Brewers Edge Kettle valve i got from Austin HBS or 18.99. I only used the drain plug seal and bushing from the cooler with the nut from the valve. I'm currently doing extended leak testing so will let you know how that goes, so far 10 minutes and no leaks.
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_33_82_89&products_id=12186

OK maybe not the cheapest.
 
Well it held water overnight, no leaks. The hot tapwater I filled it with was still warm
(no i didn't check temps). So it should hold temps fairley well. I'll find out next sunday for shure.
 
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