New E-Build - Service Panel Question

After a tragic brew-day where I lost my entire Saison and burned the $#!* out of my right foot I decided to ditch my old set up (two cooler, three tier, system) and finally upgrade my 15 gal BK with a RIMS, two keggles, and a pump.

Initially I was just going to send power to my RIMS tube and direct fire the rest but after reading a lot of the posts on this site I think it makes sense to go all electric for control and costs but I don't know how many amps I have available on my service panel. I have an available 240v power source on the panel from the old water heater (I had an on demand system installed) but I'm not sure if its a 60A or just 30A. Below is a picture with the referenced breaker turned off.

I am pretty handy but don't really know squat about electrical systems and I greatly appreciate any advice on how to attack this build.

This looks like 240v (2x 120V phase) @ 30 amps.
Many electric builds use this power source for a 240V element up to 5500Watts. You just can't run multiple elements at the same time. Also make sure you have GFCI protection.

This looks like 240v (2x 120V phase) @ 30 amps.
Many electric builds use this power source for a 240V element up to 5500Watts. You just can't run multiple elements at the same time. Also make sure you have GFCI protection.

If you still have the water heater, it might be handy to start strike water at 160 degF instead of 60 degF.

Do you know the manufacturer of your service box? Those breakers look to be pretty old.

crazyirishman34 said:

Do you know the manufacturer of your service box? Those breakers look to be pretty old.

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it looks like Fedferal Pacific. The house is only 25 years old...I seem to remember our electrician saying they had some recalls but our componenets were made by someone else and labeled Federal Pacific, i think part of a bankruptcy settlement.

When we put in the gas on demand water heater I asked about adding amperage to the panel and he said we were tapped out without running another wire from the master power. Its a big house.

jCOSbrew said:

This looks like 240v (2x 120V phase) @ 30 amps.
Many electric builds use this power source for a 240V element up to 5500Watts. You just can't run multiple elements at the same time. Also make sure you have GFCI protection.

If you still have the water heater, it might be handy to start strike water at 160 degF instead of 60 degF.

Click to expand...

What is the difference between the dryer breaker (its the 30A breaker above the off one) that has "30" only written on one of the two jumped breakers and the off one below it that has "30" written on both of the jumped breakers? and I was hoping 12-14 was 60A total.

I am planning on putting a Spa panel in for GFI...can i just connect it where the old WH wires terminate? There is a dead end junction box there now.

ANd i do not have the water heater amymore but the on demand water heater delivers 100 - 140 degF water whenever I want it.

chadillac7819 said:

What is the difference between the dryer breaker (its the 30A breaker above the off one) that has "30" only written on one of the two jumped breakers and the off one below it that has "30" written on both of the jumped breakers? and I was hoping 12-14 was 60A total.

I am planning on putting a Spa panel in for GFI...can i just connect it where the old WH wires terminate? There is a dead end junction box there now.

ANd i do not have the water heater amymore but the on demand water heater delivers 100 - 140 degF water whenever I want it.

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I don't think there is any difference in the breakers other than the markings. You can certainly use that breaker or swap it out with a bigger one if you want. Since you are basically right at the panel, I would suggest replacing the existing receptacle with a 4-wire version if it is not already.

edit sorry not receptacle...dead end j-box...

Are you planning on using the same wire that they water heater used?

crazyirishman34 said:

Are you planning on using the same wire that they water heater used?

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that seemed like the easiest option...connect the spa panel directly where the water heater was asn then run wire from the panel in flex tube to my brweery about 15 feet away.

any changes at the box and i would need to call my electrician.

If you plan to run just one element at a time, your fine but do put the GFI spa disconnect in for protection. Being 25 years old, I'm sure it's a 3 prong outlet. I was in a similar boat and had read the threads how you can convert to add 4 wires out of your spa disconnect on a 3 prong outlet. But it just didn't seem right. I decided to add another breaker in the panel - $12 and its 50amp, Run 6/3 (4 wire) from panel to spa disconnect at brew bench $40, Then 6/3 wire to the panel. Took about an hour to do.

garbageman said:

...had read the threads how you can convert to add 4 wires out of your spa disconnect on a 3 prong outlet. But it just didn't seem right.

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It isn't. You made the right decision.

There is a workaround for 3 wire if you will only have modest 120V loading (controls, pumps) requirement but 4-wire is best and cheapest if you can pull the wire without having to tear your house apart.

I agree with the last 2 post. If you shop around you should be able to find an electrician that will do the work in the panel for you.

I love those fed pacific panels. They keep me steadily employed. Google search "federal pacific panel" is all I tell my customers. I suggest you don't spend any money on that panel. Just get it changed. negotiate having a brew circuit installed at the same time. Most home insurance companies will drop your coverages if they find you have one of those fireboxes in your casa.

chadillac7819 said:

that seemed like the easiest option...connect the spa panel directly where the water heater was asn then run wire from the panel in flex tube to my brweery about 15 feet away.

any changes at the box and i would need to call my electrician.

Click to expand...

I don't know about your water heaters, but mine have all been 240V only, meaning two hots and ground, whereas most brew setups seem to be geared to 120/240V that use a neutral (and decidedly preferable with dedicated equipment grounding, meaning 4-wire circuit).