American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

Yep, that will work fine.

Thanks for your help. I ordered this last night.
Crystal Malt 10 Lovibond
I wasn't sure if Caramel was the same.
I plan to give it a shot This weekend.

Was looking for a nice pale ale to persuade the SWMBO to drink some home brew instead of the BMC she drinks. Im going to give this a try.

I am using your exact grain bill. The hops are close. I dont have enough cascade on hand to fill the exact hop bill. So i may add some centennial at flame out instead or I might just stick with my limited cascade and only have 30 or so IBUs.

I have some british ale yeast available also from a previous harvest. So I am going to use that instead of the Nottingham.

So similar, but just a change in yeast. But the grain bill will exact. Thanks for the recipe.

I saw that US-05 is a good substitute for the Nottingham dry yeast, but could anyone suggest a comparable WYeast liquid strain?

I believe wyeast 1056 is the same as US-05.

Just drank my first bottle of this. I'm very pleased. It doesn't have as much flavor as my other stuff, but this is just what I was going for; very quaffable, light, refreshing, etc. Will be easy to drink lots of this. The hops dropped right out. The color is light, but not too light, good head and carbonation.
My SWMBO still doesn't like it. Oh well, just leaves more for me

I'm considering adding more hops next time. I just got a bunch of fresh hops from a family member that lives near Yakima. Any suggestions?

Also, it seems to have a bit of chill haze to it. Nothing wrong with the flavor, but how can I avoid that with the next batch (or should I even bother)? I didn't secondary it, and bottle conditioned.

violins said:

Just drank my first bottle of this. I'm very pleased. It doesn't have as much flavor as my other stuff, but this is just what I was going for; very quaffable, light, refreshing, etc. Will be easy to drink lots of this. The hops dropped right out. The color is light, but not too light, good head and carbonation.
My SWMBO still doesn't like it. Oh well, just leaves more for me

I'm considering adding more hops next time. I just got a bunch of fresh hops from a family member that lives near Yakima. Any suggestions?

Also, it seems to have a bit of chill haze to it. Nothing wrong with the flavor, but how can I avoid that with the next batch (or should I even bother)? I didn't secondary it, and bottle conditioned.

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I'm glad you like it. It's meant to please a broad spectrum of beer drinkers.

Did you put in any whirlfloc or irish moss in the boil at the end? That will help reduce chill haze.

I'll try Irish Moss with the next batch. I'm excited to try some different hops. I only had 1 oz of Cascade so I used 1 oz of Willamette with it. Still finished very smooth.
Thanks!

I am having trouble getting this beer to carbonate. It was in basement for 4 weeks in bottle at about 64 degrees then moved it upstairs for another 4 weeks at 67 to 68 degrees I've had 2 other beers that carbinated just fine in the same time period in the same conditions. It has just a very slight bit of carbination.but is still pretty flat I am pretty sure I put in the priming sugar (4.5 oz.) but it has been so long I cant bee 100% sure.

I'm thinking I'm going to try this recepie out soon and it was going to be the first I diddn't mess with but LHBS dosn't stock nottingham dry yeast. They have another brand, can't think of it right now, want to say muttons but I'm not sure. How do you think it would taste with WYeast ROGUE PACMAN yeast(my personal favorite yeast)? My LHBS stocks it PERMINATELY btw!!!!!

mgable said:

I am having trouble getting this beer to carbonate. It was in basement for 4 weeks in bottle at about 64 degrees then moved it upstairs for another 4 weeks at 67 to 68 degrees I've had 2 other beers that carbinated just fine in the same time period in the same conditions. It has just a very slight bit of carbination.but is still pretty flat I am pretty sure I put in the priming sugar (4.5 oz.) but it has been so long I cant bee 100% sure.

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My version of Edwort's HPA was slightly overcarbed, if anything, and I've not heard of anyone having carbing problems with this beer. For that reason I'd guess it's something specific to your current batch.

For carbonation I believe you'd ideally want your bottles at 70F for three weeks, so perhaps you could give your bottles a shake to rouse the yeast, and then up the temps a little bit. It's odd that your other beers carbonated fine under the same conditions (did they use the same yeast strain?), but warming your current batch and waiting would be a lot easier than adding more sugar and recapping each bottle, so maybe go with that for now and see if it helps.

Last night I made my first go at Ed's Haus Pale Ale.

ProMash says I hit 79% Eff. :rockin:

The ol' refractometer gave me 10.5 after the wort was cooling the same reading jumped to 12.00 ~ 1.049

It was pretty easy, now air-lock is showing signs of activity.

Thanks for the easy reicpe, I made some of this last night to try to please the non dark\heavier beer drinkers. Although I had to use an ounce of Centennial cause thats all the lhbs had, I'm sure it'll be awesome all the same!

Congrats Schlenkerla & Strangebrewer. Be sure to let it age some before drinking.

Hey everyone! This is my first post here. I just got into homebrewing and thought I would try this recipe since everyone seems so crazy about it and I need a refreshing beer now that it's getting hot! I attempted the mini mash version but with a few minor changes I'm a little worried about. My LHBS didn't have any Crystal 10L and told me that Cara-pils would be a good substitution so I used that instead. He was also out of Cascade so I substituted Amarillo. Now I'm not too worried about the Amarillo but the Cara-pils has me worried. After brewing and pitching I got on the computer to look up Cara-pils to see if it was close to Crystal 10L and discovered it's not even close. So I guess I'm looking for some advice on whether you guys think the beer will still be close to the Haus Pale Ale or if it will be completely different. I'm sure it will be drinkable but might it lack the complexity or depth of flavors of the original? Anyway, sorry for the long first post and thanks for all the great information on this site!

It will be different, but probably pretty good. Carapils is a form of Crystal, but lighter in color.

Hey Edwort, do you have your Beersmith file for this recipe? I'm trying to get it identical to yours but I'm having problems. Here's my file, does anything look out of place that would account for the differences I'm getting?

http://dl1u.savefile.com/a620bfb67fe385bb24db0f589b002188/edworts.bsm

I don't use beersmith. I use a recipe calculator over at tastybrew. What problems are you having?

My IBU's, SRM's, and several others are off from your calculations. I thought we were using the same program.

No idea why, but if you follow the recipe, it will make a tasty beer.

Ed,

Forgive me if you have already answered this in the last 38 pages, any idea what your strike water temp usually is on this?

McSwiggin' said:

Ed,

Forgive me if you have already answered this in the last 38 pages, any idea what your strike water temp usually is on this?

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That depends on the temperature of your grain. Check out the strike temp calculator here.

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml

Thanks Ed, that is actually the calculator I have been using. Lately I have been missing my mash temps by a couple degrees.

Make sure you preheat your MLT with a couple gallons of hot tap water for about 15 minutes.

My problem has actually been in the other direction. Since I started using that calculator, I end up a couple degrees high. My MLT retains heat so well that it takes a while to get it down a couple degrees. Probably not a big deal. Just curious.

If you over shoot the temp, just start dropping ice cubes in it and stir. Keep checking temp every 30 seconds as the ice melt and you will bring the temp down.

Thats a good tip. Thanks Ed!

well, i finally jumped on the bandwagon. my swmbo went to the lhbs and got everything for the pm version. kinda. the right yeast,TEN OUNCES OF CASCADES!!! sorry,. the only problem is she got screwed up with the grains. two pounds veinna, and one pound of crystal 40, all mixed together. i'm sure it will be good but i wanted this to be perfect. on the plus side i will still have 5 gallons of tasty beer.

I just did a version of this followed the grain bill completley
but used:
columbus as bittering about .5 ounce
then .5 cascade at 30
.5 cascade at 15 and 5
then I am dry hopping with an ounce of amarillo which is where it is at right now. I also used wyeast 1056. When I racked to dry hop it tasted pretty good already. Now to wait for another 2 weeks before I bottle

my name is brian and i'm an airlock sniffing addict. ok, now that that's out of the way, let me relate my experience with this brew so far. I brewed it and pitched the yeast this past sunday. By Monday afternoon I had a steady stream of bubbles coming from the airlock and smelling of sharp fresh hops. As the fermentation intensified monday night and through tuesday the hop smell persisted, but was joined by the subtle smell of yeast/bread. So far so good, right? Well yesterday (Wednesday) the hop smell gave way to the yeasty/bready smell which intensified throughout the day until it peaked last night. The overwhelming smell of yeast was joined by the somewhat disturbing smell of fart. The fart smell has persisted throughout today and a few minutes ago, when I took another whiff tonight, the fart smell had overcome the yeasty smell to become the dominant aroma. Is my brew contaminated or is the fart a common scent for this brew? While I'm usually pretty good about drinking/eating anything, a beer that smells of old stale farts probably won't make it to my mouth. Please tell me this is a common occurence during the fermentation of this brew and that it will give way to beautiful malty aromas. Thanks!

Good question. You must be one Fart Smeller, I mean Smart Feller.

I have no idea, as my fermenters are in a freezer in the garage.

One man's farts are another man's ambrosia though.

KingBrianI said:

my name is brian and i'm an airlock sniffing addict. ....... The fart smell has persisted throughout today and a few minutes ago, when I took another whiff tonight, the fart smell had overcome the yeasty smell to become the dominant aroma. Is my brew contaminated or is the fart a common scent for this brew? While I'm usually pretty good about drinking/eating anything, a beer that smells of old stale farts probably won't make it to my mouth. Please tell me this is a common occurence during the fermentation of this brew and that it will give way to beautiful malty aromas. Thanks!

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Yes - They smell. As the yeast make beer they fart too ya know.

It/They will also taste like farts (I think, never tasted one or want too) if you try to drink them too soon. Like right now.

Wait until it done, rack to the 2ndary or bottle and wait about 3 weeks and you have some tasty beer to drink. - No Farts Honestly!

You ought to call this one Fartopia Pale Ale!!!

haha, thanks for the resassurances guys. i've decided to give the yeast some privacy while it takes care of business.

Ed, I noticed that you call for no hydration or yeast starter with the Nottingham. I am assuming that you have had luck with this, but I have to be honest that I have never heard of this before. I thought that you always had to make a starter with dry yeast. I am still somewhat of a noobie, but it just seemed odd. I'm going to try this recipe this weekend, thanks for the economically friendly beer.

zacmac said:

Ed, I noticed that you call for no hydration or yeast starter with the Nottingham. I am assuming that you have had luck with this, but I have to be honest that I have never heard of this before. I thought that you always had to make a starter with dry yeast. I am still somewhat of a noobie, but it just seemed odd. I'm going to try this recipe this weekend, thanks for the economically friendly beer.

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Having a starter always helps, but you can either dry pitch, or rehydrate as noted on the package or have two on hand all of the time. That way if you have a dead one you're OK. You just add another pack. This is my back up yeast. Its a good neutral yeast to have at the ready.

zacmac said:

Ed, I noticed that you call for no hydration or yeast starter with the Nottingham. I am assuming that you have had luck with this, but I have to be honest that I have never heard of this before. I thought that you always had to make a starter with dry yeast. I am still somewhat of a noobie, but it just seemed odd. I'm going to try this recipe this weekend, thanks for the economically friendly beer.

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You don't need a starter for Nottingham or Safale-05. Nottingham recommends you rehydrate, but Safale does not. I've done it both and it does not matter either way IMHO.

Thanks so much guys, I appreciate your feedback. I trying the Haus Pale Ale this weekend and with some luck will have it ready to drink for my son's 1st Birthday party in July. Of course for the mature attendees only, birthday cake for all others.Take care.

I decided to give "all grain" a try. After all the posts about Ed's "Haus" Ale I figured that would "bee" a good one to start out with. I knew I would need to split the boil into two pots. I didn't think I would need three.

I suppose the three pots have quite a bit more surface area than one large pot. I'm thinking that's why after "boil off" I only ended up with about 3 1/2 Gallons. So, after I cooled the wort, I added enough tap water to the fermenter to bring it up to 5 1/2 gallons. Was that OK???

I don't know how to figure out my "efficiency" yet. But, after I put my sample into the freezer to cool it to about 60 deg, my hydrometer reading was 1.048. A little short I think. I'm not sure what I did wrong there. It could be I added too much water.

Also, my LHBS was sold out of the Nottingham yeast. I used Muntons. Do you think that will make much difference?

For my first try at all grain brewing everything seemed to go pretty well.

(Except for the flood and the mild heat stroke...)

But, I came out looking (and tasting ) pretty good. It does seem a little "lighter" than yours. I'm not sure why.





I can't wait til it's done.

Thanks for sharing the recipe Ed.

Kornbread

How do you brew at someone elses house and then get it to your own house without ruining it?

dp69_2001 said:

How do you brew at someone elses house and then get it to your own house without ruining it?

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Put your bucket or carboy fermenter in the back of your car and take it home. Add the yeast when you get home. The jostling will help aerate it.