Electric Disconnect @ Kettle?

I'm in the middle of finishing the planning of my 240v Electric HLT and Kettle.

I'd like the ability to disconnect the power cable coming off of my HLT and Kettle element at the actual kettle itself, if possible (so I don't have a long wire hanging off of each kettle permanent) -has anyone found a way to do this?


Also: I really don't like the solution of having a square electrical box permanently attached to my HLT / Kettle as a water proofing mechanism. Has anyone come up with another alternative to the "ElectricBrewery.com" option? -I'm thinking of something plastic & cylindrical that waterproofs the connection and sticks out a bit from the element connector.


For what it's worth I'm using a 50amp spa disconnect GFCI box connected to a 4 prong 50 amp electric range plug (the house's main circuit breaker is actuall 40 amp to this circuit so the overload protection is 40amp) -I'm then going to connect a single 5500 w 240v element with a locking dryer-style cord to my HLT element. -When I'm done draining the mash I will disconnect the cable going to the HLT and connect it to the boil kettle which will have plenty of liquid covering the element. -So again, I'll only ever have 1 5500w element running at a time.


My biggest concern is a solution for connecting my cable to my electric element safely and having it be fairly waterproofed without having a huge square plastic box connected to my kettles. -If there's a solution that also allows me to disconnect the cable @ the kettle that's a bonus!


Thanks,
Adam

this seems like the best way to have a kettle disconnect to me.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/s...ow-did-you-do-212079/index10.html#post4472090

Granted you need the box there but Im not sure how you could do a disconnect at the kettle without a box or a small piece of cord handing there.

He links to the switchcraft connects on the next page of that thread.

I'm sure there's a male twist lock connector that can be modified just so, and potted with silicone or the like, to achieve what you're trying to do.

Bobby_M said:

I'm sure there's a male twist lock connector that can be modified just so, and potted with silicone or the like, to achieve what you're trying to do.

Click to expand...

Bobby, as always, a GREAT idea!


-I'm also thinking of maybe using a drilled-out PVC end-cap glued into a very sort length of PVC tube, and then another end cap (not glued) on the outside with the male twist lock connector potted with silicone in this end cap.

My HLT has one of your 1" welding spuds installed to support the electric element but my kettle has a 1 1/2" TC welded in with a 1 1/2" TC to 1" NSP adapter so it can be easily and quickly removed if necessary.


Adam

OMJ said:

this seems like the best way to have a kettle disconnect to me.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/s...ow-did-you-do-212079/index10.html#post4472090

Granted you need the box there but Im not sure how you could do a disconnect at the kettle without a box or a small piece of cord handing there.

He links to the switchcraft connects on the next page of that thread.

Click to expand...

OMJ, these things are GREAT and look like they'll save me a ton of $$.
I'm thinking of combining this with a bit of PVC tubing as a solution.

Thanks for the recommendation. (I didn't make it to page 10 of that thread; I'm trying to get this build done and start brewing; it's already been over 2 months since I last brewed and I'm going CRAZY!)


Adam