My Weldless Build Using Strut

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Yea on one of my old burners I also used the BBQ grate to give me enough base. I just don't want to tear this apart and rebuild if I go too wide. But I also want room to mount the burner. Think ill stick with the 13"
 
Alot of great builds in this thread, and very informative. I have not seen anyone use the solid channel strut in a build? Is there any reason why you wouldn't to? To me it would end up looking alot more like a welded stand, and still have all of the functionality, thoughts?
 
Alot of great builds in this thread, and very informative. I have not seen anyone use the solid channel strut in a build? Is there any reason why you wouldn't to? To me it would end up looking alot more like a welded stand, and still have all of the functionality, thoughts?

I'd say weight, price, and availability. I haven't seen it locally. I've had a tough time even finding bolts, nuts, and fittings other than online.
 
I'd say weight, price, and availability. I haven't seen it locally. I've had a tough time even finding bolts, nuts, and fittings other than online.

I have an electric supply company close by that carries the entire cooper b-line, channel and fittings. They list the solid channel as cheaper, just wanted to make sure it was not a major functionality disadvantage by going solid channle as opposed to slotted
 
Yeah no reason why you shouldn't be able to use solid. I know I did a couple of fittings where I used the slots, you could always just drill it if you needed to.

-G
 
I am using stainless solid channel strut on my build right now. I will post pics when it is done. It isnt significantly heavier. At the local electrical supply store they were blowing it out and It was cheaper than the slotted... Which is why I bought it.

It looks great. Similar to square tubing for a welded stand.

Pictures coming soon. I am waiting till its done to post but the first pic of it during a loose assembly is pure brewing porn. Sorry to tease.

The stainless fittings are killing my budget though. And there is no point in having SS strut and not use SS fittings and bolts. eBay has been a project saver but it is taking longer than expected to build on budget. Either more money or more time to scour eBay for random parts on the cheap is needed.
 
I am using stainless solid channel strut on my build right now. I will post pics when it is done. It isnt significantly heavier. At the local electrical supply store they were blowing it out and It was cheaper than the slotted... Which is why I bought it.
wow great score! was this a local mom-n-pop shop, or a national chain? i'd go with SS if it wasn't 5 times the price of zinc-plated.
 
TerraNova said:
The stainless fittings are killing my budget though. And there is no point in having SS strut and not use SS fittings and bolts. eBay has been a project saver but it is taking longer than expected to build on budget. Either more money or more time to scour eBay for random parts on the cheap is needed.

Do you have fittings in the path of the flame? Aren't your fittings internal anyway? Just trying to speed up your process so I can see the brew pron! :)
 
It was a local place so small it wasn't even mom n' pop...it is just mom....or pop I guess, the guy there DID have a handlebar mustache so he couldn't be "mom".

I bought his last 50' (5 x10'). It was a laborious search, and his shop didn't even have a website. It took old fashion phone calling to see what he had in stock and his price. He was also a good 45 minute drive away each way (that turned into and 4 hour excursion due to California traffic and a fender bender on the freeway).

The cost IS killing me and even making me doubt myself on going all stainless. But when I think about how I will be happy with it, say, a year from now, I keep going. And after much thought I decided I would rather tighten up on some other expenses for a couple of months than to have to deal with zinc burn off (cause you never really know if more isn't going to burn off later) and then the inevitable rust that follows once the zinc is gone. And for the record, I am not saying the guys using galvanized are doing it wrong...I am fortunate to have the budget I do for this. If it was two years ago, I would have had to decide between a galvanized stand with the drawbacks or nothing at all....to which I would have chosen the galvanized with the drawbacks.

Pics coming...well, maybe not soon, but they are coming.
 
Do you have fittings in the path of the flame? Aren't your fittings internal anyway? Just trying to speed up your process so I can see the brew pron! :)

They aren't internal, and they would be exposed to the elements and the liquid from a brew day. And from the pictures I have seen of zinc burn off it looks like the fittings get hot enough to lose the galvanized coating...but I don't know for sure. It is still a ways away from a fire up.

However, if I could go back in time, I would have maybe bought aluminum or galvanized casters. I was a bit over zealous (and by a "bit" I mean completely) when ordering those and I went right to the SS section of the website. I feel I shopped around and got a good price for SS casters but now I am kicking myself for WASTING that cash...they won't get remotely hot enough to warrant that extra cost. As I am typing this I have decided to see if I can exchange them and use my head a bit more with some future purchases.

As for the porn (or pron as you and my 18 year old cousin calls it), maybe I am making it out to be more than what it really is but I cannot tell you how many times I go out to my workshop to get a light bulb or something and end up spending 20 minutes staring at it and pondering what to do next.
 
The stainless fittings are killing my budget though. And there is no point in having SS strut and not use SS fittings and bolts. eBay has been a project saver but it is taking longer than expected to build on budget. Either more money or more time to scour eBay for random parts on the cheap is needed.

It's nuts isn't it?

The SS strut itself is fairly reasonable. Even the SS bolts weren't too bad.

I did stainless fittings except for the corner pieces. They wanted $44 each for those. I think it's because they were welded. The other pieces weren't that bad.

I just added some length to the stand keep the flames away from the corners. If it's a problem I might look to replace them later, but that's unlikely.
 
It's nuts isn't it?

The SS strut itself is fairly reasonable. Even the SS bolts weren't too bad.

I did stainless fittings except for the corner pieces. They wanted $44 each for those. I think it's because they were welded. The other pieces weren't that bad.

I just added some length to the stand keep the flames away from the corners. If it's a problem I might look to replace them later, but that's unlikely.

Yes the strut is reasonable. It's comparable in price to stainless tubing everybody uses in welded stands and relatively speaking the cost of the fittings and specialized nuts ( Here) is the same as hiring a welder. I looked into welding, I would need to take a short course in welding and get my hands on a machine, both of which would be even more money, but I liked that I can customize the stand and change it on whim with strut. There is no downside to using strut vs welding.

Still, those welded corner pieces are EXACTLY what is killing me. I have 2 but am still sourcing two more. Good idea about lengthening the stand but one of the things I wanted to do was make a compact stand. Still, that is a great workaround. I do love working on/engineering this project.
 
Yes the strut is reasonable. It's comparable in price to stainless tubing everybody uses in welded stands and relatively speaking the cost of the fittings and specialized nuts ( Here) is the same as hiring a welder. I looked into welding, I would need to take a short course in welding and get my hands on a machine, both of which would be even more money, but I liked that I can customize the stand and change it on whim with strut. There is no downside to using strut vs welding.

Still, those welded corner pieces are EXACTLY what is killing me. I have 2 but am still sourcing two more. Good idea about lengthening the stand but one of the things I wanted to do was make a compact stand. Still, that is a great workaround. I do love working on/engineering this project.

I'm about 75% through mine. I opted for about 75% SS. The whole top and sides are SS. The bottom pieces are galvinized.

I would have rather done a shorter stand, but i'm adding casters on the side so I can store it up on it's side and roll it around. I thought that was a good compromise. I was more concerned with storage space.

Very happy with it so far. Can't wait to fire it up this weekend.
 
Made it through our maiden voyage today. The 23 tip jet burners hooked up to 1/2" natural gas brought 6 gallons of cold hose water to a rolling boil in exactly 30 minutes. I used a quick disconnect at the house to prevent kids from being able to turn the gas on. The width is 15.25" wide, as wide as my smallest pot could reach. 3" casters help move it around and the diamond plate protects my cooler from the heat. I haven't done a total cost yet, but guess its around $300-$400.00.

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Looks awesome! So you went with the same QD's as I referenced? They are working great for me.

Thanks man. Yeah, the quick disconnect is the only way to go. 3/8" is easy to find, the 1/2" takes a bit more looking.
 
I've seen a lot of single tier and two tier systems on this thread, but there weren't too many three tier systems. I have been working on this for a while, but finally finished it, and used it for a brew this week.

IMG_20130223_165702.jpg


I built mine with the idea that it should be able to store in a 24"x24" floor space in my shed. I wanted the system to be portable (if I wanted to take it somewhere) and be able to brew anywhere with or without power.

The main tower is 24"x24" and about 5' high. It has two BG12 burners, one for the HLT and one for the boil kettle. The bottom shelf is set at about 22" high, so I can syphon directly into the fermenter.

The shelf on the right hand side is built using two heavy-duty folding shelf brackets, and holds my Gatorade mash-tun. Its set about 45" off the ground (just enough to syphon into the BK). Because it folds it means that I can fold it down and store the whole system easily, without taking up extra floor space.

The top is 60" high, and holds the HLT, with another BG12.

I attached the burners is attached using threaded rod and a standard piece of angle-iron, so I can adjust the height. The threaded rod has a nut on it at the top (to make it hold through the fitting), and two at the bottom to sandwich the piece of angle iron.

I was a little afraid of condensation on the top bracket dripping back into the BK, but that seems to be ok (theres enough distance to not make that an issue).

The biggest problem I have is with the zinc on the crossbars flaking off - but that will go away soon I hope.

Since I wanted to be able to move this, I put harbor freight 7" or 8" wheels on the back strut supports. The supports are about an inch off the ground, and you can see where I had to level the stand to get it sturdy on my uneven (muddy) ground, but it held up well, and was nice and sturdy yesterday.

As you can see I still have to figure out a good way to attach the propane manifold, but the zip-ties are working for now ;)

I'm really glad I did this.. I realized that I spent way too much time lifting and balancing pots and fermenters before. Now brewing seems so much easier :)
 
I've seen a lot of single tier and two tier systems on this thread, but there weren't too many three tier systems. I have been working on this for a while, but finally finished it, and used it for a brew this week.

IMG_20130223_165702.jpg


I built mine with the idea that it should be able to store in a 24"x24" floor space in my shed. I wanted the system to be portable (if I wanted to take it somewhere) and be able to brew anywhere with or without power.

The main tower is 24"x24" and about 5' high. It has two BG12 burners, one for the HLT and one for the boil kettle. The bottom shelf is set at about 22" high, so I can syphon directly into the fermenter.

The shelf on the right hand side is built using two heavy-duty folding shelf brackets, and holds my Gatorade mash-tun. Its set about 45" off the ground (just enough to syphon into the BK). Because it folds it means that I can fold it down and store the whole system easily, without taking up extra floor space.

The top is 60" high, and holds the HLT, with another BG12.

I attached the burners is attached using threaded rod and a standard piece of angle-iron, so I can adjust the height. The threaded rod has a nut on it at the top (to make it hold through the fitting), and two at the bottom to sandwich the piece of angle iron.

I was a little afraid of condensation on the top bracket dripping back into the BK, but that seems to be ok (theres enough distance to not make that an issue).

The biggest problem I have is with the zinc on the crossbars flaking off - but that will go away soon I hope.

Since I wanted to be able to move this, I put harbor freight 7" or 8" wheels on the back strut supports. The supports are about an inch off the ground, and you can see where I had to level the stand to get it sturdy on my uneven (muddy) ground, but it held up well, and was nice and sturdy yesterday.

As you can see I still have to figure out a good way to attach the propane manifold, but the zip-ties are working for now ;)

I'm really glad I did this.. I realized that I spent way too much time lifting and balancing pots and fermenters before. Now brewing seems so much easier :)

Nicely done. That fits all of your stated needs.

Can you post a close up on the shelf? Is it a store bought item that you converted? I would like to add a shelf to mine and have been noodling around with trying to fabricate one.

Any info would be appreciated.
 
The bayouclassicdepot 10 tip burners are some of the cheapest quality out there look through old threads where people have tips fall out and cant thread back in. Just look at their disclaimer on the page about how none of them are tested and you cant return them.

Im not sure how you plan on igniting the burners but also not that bayouclassicdepot burners the 10 tips do not have the threaded hole for a standing pilot..

Much better quality can be found here http://www.topfoodservice.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=KECABJ

They have a good price and search the site for pilot also for around $5 you can get a pilot that threads into the burner they also have cool little manual pilot shutoff valves that fit 1/4 inch tubing and also cheap gas lines. $48 for a better quality burner is fair IMO... Plus there are many people on this forum who have used them and they are really happy with them.


that is really good info. i will use this when I buy my burner. thanks for the fair warning.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRoboto
The bayouclassicdepot 10 tip burners are some of the cheapest quality out there look through old threads where people have tips fall out and cant thread back in. Just look at their disclaimer on the page about how none of them are tested and you cant return them.

Im not sure how you plan on igniting the burners but also not that bayouclassicdepot burners the 10 tips do not have the threaded hole for a standing pilot..

Much better quality can be found here http://www.topfoodservice.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=KECABJ

They have a good price and search the site for pilot also for around $5 you can get a pilot that threads into the burner they also have cool little manual pilot shutoff valves that fit 1/4 inch tubing and also cheap gas lines. $48 for a better quality burner is fair IMO... Plus there are many people on this forum who have used them and they are really happy with them.

that is really good info. i will use this when I buy my burner. thanks for the fair warning.

I'm happy with this merchant and the burners. They are good quality and the pilots are worth the extra $. They ship quickly too.

I won't deal with bayouclassicdepot.com. No communication and really poor customer service. To cancel my order I had to send an email and leave a voice-mail (just in case). Never got a confirmation of any kind.
 
How come the larger burners from that vendor are so significantly less expensive than the smaller burners? Seems strange that an 8" burner with 20 tips and throwing 150k BTUs is $20 cheaper than the 10 tip, 6" burner throwing half the btus. They're really skinny on details and specs (at least that I can find) so it's hard to tell if one would require a significantly greater gas pressure than the other, for instance... It seems like a no brainer, if the same pressure would run both equally efficiently, to go with 2 of the larger burner for just slightly more than the cost of 1 of the smaller, no?
 
How come the larger burners from that vendor are so significantly less expensive than the smaller burners? Seems strange that an 8" burner with 20 tips and throwing 150k BTUs is $20 cheaper than the 10 tip, 6" burner throwing half the btus. They're really skinny on details and specs (at least that I can find) so it's hard to tell if one would require a significantly greater gas pressure than the other, for instance... It seems like a no brainer, if the same pressure would run both equally efficiently, to go with 2 of the larger burner for just slightly more than the cost of 1 of the smaller, no?

I saw that too. I was concerned about enough gas pressure to run 2 of the larger burners. I'm tapping into a 1/2" line.

I also read some threads where people were plugging the extra jets to make them work better. Most of the threads I saw indicated that the 10-tip burners work pretty well.
 
Much better quality can be found here http://www.topfoodservice.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=KECABJ

They have a good price and search the site for pilot also for around $5 you can get a pilot that threads into the burner they also have cool little manual pilot shutoff valves that fit 1/4 inch tubing and also cheap gas lines. $48 for a better quality burner is fair IMO... Plus there are many people on this forum who have used them and they are really happy with them.

MrRoboto, how did you install these burners? i'm unfamiliar with them so i'm trying to figure out if they need to be supported by the gas line (i.e. all solid piping must be used); or if they're like banjo burners that can be mounted via bent slotted steel & have the gas fed via a flexible hose, etc. some pix would be most appreciated if you have the time to post them.

thanks for all your help with these burners! that site should give you a commission...
 
These strut builds are awesome. I just finished my frame a couple days ago and I'm slowly but surely adding all the pieces (pumps, pump switch, gas plumbing, etc.)

For all the single tier builders out there, has anyone seen or done an extra section with a flat top for a "workstation" type thing? I envision being able to leave my paper and pen and iphone for note taking. I also see a drawer underneath that could hold refractometers, hydrometers, irish moss bottles, small thermometers, etc. I looked on mcmaster car for a drawers and found two but I hadn't seen them used in any other brew stands and I wanted to see more.

The last thing I was thinking about was something to hang mash paddles or long stainless spoons on. Has anyone seen a good idea for this?

Thanks!
 
sccrgolee said:
The last thing I was thinking about was something to hang mash paddles or long stainless spoons on. Has anyone seen a good idea for this?

Thanks!

I first thought of using a hook with a magnetic base to hold my spoon and whisk. The magnet was not strong enough though. Perhaps a stronger magnet would work. However, I did find some wire hooks that attach with the 3M tape (the kind that are supposed to hold really well but can still be easily removed). These work really well for me. I simply attached them to my top front beam.

That is something to consider.

Mark
 
These strut builds are awesome. I just finished my frame a couple days ago and I'm slowly but surely adding all the pieces (pumps, pump switch, gas plumbing, etc.)

For all the single tier builders out there, has anyone seen or done an extra section with a flat top for a "workstation" type thing? I envision being able to leave my paper and pen and iphone for note taking. I also see a drawer underneath that could hold refractometers, hydrometers, irish moss bottles, small thermometers, etc. I looked on mcmaster car for a drawers and found two but I hadn't seen them used in any other brew stands and I wanted to see more.

The last thing I was thinking about was something to hang mash paddles or long stainless spoons on. Has anyone seen a good idea for this?

Thanks!


I am in the build process on mine and I am doing the whole 9 yards on what you are describing.

  • Fold up table wing like the one mentioned a few posts up on this thread.
  • Hooks for hanging my stainless mash paddle (going to drill into the strut and bolt the store bought towel hook)
  • Under mounted draws. As seen here I haven't seen any in SS that are the right size (or budget) so I may just go with painted ones as they will be under a shelf anyway.

I am surprised more people don't add additional hooks, shelves, and drawers to thier stand. Why make it hard on yourself on brewday?
 
thanks guys for the posts...i'm still surprised i haven't seen more drawers on peoples stands as well as an additional stand for a workspace...taking notes, etc.

i've looked long and hard for someone who's added a workspace and haven't seen it, so if you all know of something, please post!

thanks again for the comments!
 
sccrgolee said:
thanks guys for the posts...i'm still surprised i haven't seen more drawers on peoples stands as well as an additional stand for a workspace...taking notes, etc.

i've looked long and hard for someone who's added a workspace and haven't seen it, so if you all know of something, please post!

thanks again for the comments!

One thing not mentioned is the amount of heat put out by the burners. The idea of putting a shelf or drawer anywhere on my stand is a no go. You would be better off putting a separate table somewhere behind you. I've had to add metal plates here and there just to shield certain pieces of tubes, rubber, etc. my stand has a rubber strip that caps the "C" channel when it faces upward. This rubber starts to smolder, even though its 12" under the nearest burner.
 
bobbrewedit summed up my thoughts pretty well - I could see having a hook here or there to hang you hoses or your mash paddle/spoon, but having a work surface to rest your phone, or even drawers? That also sounds to me like a call for a separate structure than the one that's generating many thousand BTU's of heat - unless, that is, you're an electric brewer. You electric guys I could see working in the drawers and stuff, maybe. But even then - in my case for example - I'd personally keep my rig in my garage and the rest in my basement between brew days. Having a drawer or two on my brew rig, heat issues notwithstanding, would probably become something of a novelty after a brew or two...
 
thanks for those thoughts on drawers and hangers. i guess that's why i didn't see a whole lot of info about that stuff. those that did it, probably removed them after their first brew day! thanks again guys....i'm continually impressed by this site. i absolutely learn a ton on here. i hope at some point i can contribute some advice instead of just questions.
 
MDRex said:
How strong is the 13/16 strut and for what sections would be safe to use it?

If I could do it again, I would use the 13/16" strut for the vertical pieces. For a 5 gallon system, I'd bet you could use it for the whole thing. Figure you wouldn't span more than 18-20 inches with it. Head to the hardware store and see if you can bend a 2' piece! In all seriousness, there are stats on the strength of all the strut and connectors because its usually used by architects and engineers in construction who need that info.
 
These builds inspired me to do one of my own and step up to 10 Gal batches.I'm going single tier with three burners . I picked up my strut and a few other pieces tonight . All my fittings nuts and bolts will be here tomorrow I acquired one keg just need two more they are hard to come by here in Baltimore . Ill post up some pics of the build as I go along .
 
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