sanitary tri clover keggle conversion

BrewSwag 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
T

trailblazer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2009
Messages
231
Reaction score
0
Location
murrieta
i got a deal on three kegs i have yet to pick up for 20$ each. im planning on having tri clover fitting welded on and i was wondering what would be a good size. i could save alot of money by having 1.5" butterfly valves and reduce to half inch barbed fitting. if i go with 1/2" ball valves it will cost a little more but is their any better differance in the two? i also want a sight glass, thermometer and false bottom. what do ya think? ill post pics when i start getting the stuff.
 
look up klg stainless. Kevin can offer you some great pricing. I would go with 1.5" sanitary. It is very common and small enough for our purposes.

Your other option is to get the 3/4" stuff that Sabco sells, but that will be pricey.
 
they have good prices on some stuff but they dont have any barbed fitting for conecting hoses. i might order some clamps and weld feruls from them. you can get the butterfly valve for 2 dollars less from st pats. im lookin at 82.50 from stpats for the tri clover ball valve setup with hose barb. i just have to find a welder that welds stainless in my area.
 
For $2 I would take Kevin's customer service over the potential disaster that is dealing with St. Pats. The horror stories fromt hat place are nearly unbelievable. There are several stories about the owner actually cussing out customers who called with questions about their orders.

For barbed fittings check out brewershardware.com. Derrin is a vendor here and makes great stuff. If you only need the barbed fittings just shoot him an email and he wil set you up.
 
anyone have any experiance with g.w.kent? it seems like a very proffesional place and their prices arn't bad. im gonna buy the fittings for my keggle and sanky fermenter from their and get a sanky fermenter top peice from brewer's hardware. the only thing i want for my fermenter from gwkent is the airation stone tri clamp thing. 4" by 1/2" tri clamp stone i can mount on the keg fermenter so when ever i want i can airate.
 
just picked up the kegs.

-two sierra nevada, one random
-straight sided
-great condition
-$20 per keg
 
I'm in the process of putting together an electric herms setup with 1.5 tri-clovers, brewershardware has been a great find. I'm using 3 piece ballvalves with derrins' tri-clover sets.
 
im gonna use the 1.5" butterfly valves and have the whole setup 1.5" tri clamp. i wana make a 13.5 gallon fermenter also with a triclamp pro racking port, 4" oxygen stone, tri clamp thermometer, and be able to carbonate or pressure rack the thing. thats gonna be wayyyy later on though. this build is gonna set me back a little (alot). im having trouble finding stainless welders in my area. the guy i bought the kegs from said he knows someone so if could get a little deal that'd be awsome.
 
Just out of curiosity, what are teh benefits of using tri clamps? They look cool, but how is it any different than using a standard barbed fitting?
 
Man those tri clamps look sweet! On my brewery I use hose barbs and a realllllly flexible silicone tubing with hose clamps. I don't drip much, if any, wort when switching hoses around. With the tri clamps I see potential for lots of wort loss... Is there really a problem with that? Is your system going to be set up with a few 3 way valves and 2 pumps so you don't have to ever change your hoses around so that you don't lose any wort?
 
i havnt decided yet how i would like to do it. tri clover valves are pretty pricy, ive been searchin ebay and ill find a great deal and then the last hour of the bid it will go from 20 to 50 and you can buy new ones for that price. i dont think im gonna get any of those three way valves, i dont mind changing hoses around. im also gonna do a two tier with the lauter tun elevated and one pump. all the fittings on the kegs will be 1/2" threaded and ill use adapters because its just esier that way to get a dip tube in the false bottom and i can change things whenever for fairly cheap.
 
Whats wrong with this:

Simply weld the coupler to your keggle.

They are 2" Tri Clovers with 1/2" NPT fittings from KLG's Ebay Store

1/2" 304 Stainless Steel coupler: $1.65
2" 304 Stainless Steel Tri Clover to 1/2" NPT Male: $11.95
2" 304 Stainless Steel Tri Clover to 1/2" NPT Male: $11.95
1/2" 316 stainless Steel Ball Valve: $9.50

Total: $35.05



360085811032_15.jpg
+
360072925268_16.jpg
+
360072925268_16.jpg
+
360133881915_9.jpg
= $35.05



So do I win the Boerderij Kabouter Award for the best Stainless Steel Post of the Day?;):D
 
ive already thought of that. but.....you forgot to adapt the welded couple to the valve.

im gonna use tri clover valves if i can find some for a reasonable price. if not ill probably use that method just with 1.5" clamps instead of the 2". theres alot of good ****zle on ebay you just have to watch it like a hawk. im gonna get all the adapters and whatever else from klg.
 
Those KLG prices are great, and is almost turning me to tri-clamps. But when you deal with those threaded fittings, the benefits of tri-clamp are negated... or am I wrong?
It always made sense to go tri-clamp in my mind because of the smooth pathway for the liquid that is very easily cleaned, and has no nooks or crannies for things to build up in. Once you throw in threads, you may as well go with cheaper threaded fittings. There are some really cheap SS disconnects around. I won't mention it again because last time I did before i bought some, people around here bought the guys out before I could buy any myself!
Cheers
 
Budzu said:
Those KLG prices are great, and is almost turning me to tri-clamps. But when you deal with those threaded fittings, the benefits of tri-clamp are negated... or am I wrong?
It always made sense to go tri-clamp in my mind because of the smooth pathway for the liquid that is very easily cleaned, and has no nooks or crannies for things to build up in. Once you throw in threads, you may as well go with cheaper threaded fittings. There are some really cheap SS disconnects around. I won't mention it again because last time I did before i bought some, people around here bought the guys out before I could buy any myself!
Cheers
Click to expand...
Tri-Clovers are just Sanitary Quick Disconnects. The threaded fittings are permanent connections. Why would that negate the purpose of the Tri-Clovers?
 
trailblazer said:
ive already thought of that. but.....you forgot to adapt the welded couple to the valve.

im gonna use tri clover valves if i can find some for a reasonable price. if not ill probably use that method just with 1.5" clamps instead of the 2". theres alot of good ****zle on ebay you just have to watch it like a hawk. im gonna get all the adapters and whatever else from klg.
Click to expand...

What did I forget? Why would this not work? I have no idea what you plan to put on the other side of the valve.

triclover.jpg
 
Sawdustguy said:
Whats wrong with this:

Simply weld the coupler to your keggle.

They are 2" Tri Clovers with 1/2" NPT fittings from KLG's Ebay Store

1/2" 304 Stainless Steel coupler: $1.65
2" 304 Stainless Steel Tri Clover to 1/2" NPT Male: $11.95
2" 304 Stainless Steel Tri Clover to 1/2" NPT Male: $11.95
1/2" 316 stainless Steel Ball Valve: $9.50

Total: $35.05



360085811032_15.jpg
+
360072925268_16.jpg
+
360072925268_16.jpg
+
360133881915_9.jpg
= $35.05



So do I win the Boerderij Kabouter Award for the best Stainless Steel Post of the Day?;):D
Click to expand...


Been building using Tri-clove's for a few years. Got tired of quick connects leaking and having to replace the O-rings.

So I came with tri-cloves I use at present.

You might check out the classifieds here.

35.05 but forgot gasket and clamp about another 8.00


Swagman:cool:
 
Swagman said:
Been building using Tri-clove's for a few years. Got tired of quick connects leaking and having to replace the O-rings.

So I came with tri-cloves I use at present.

You might check out the classifieds here.

35.05 but forgot gasket and clamp about another 8.00


Swagman:cool:
Click to expand...

You are absolutely correct kind sir!
 
a tri clover mpt adapter at the end of that setup and a tri clover barb adapter would complete it. that drawing sawdust guy made is nice. thats how i might do it if i cant find these tri clover valves for any cheaper then 40$ a peice.
 
Sawdustguy said:
What did I forget? Why would this not work? I have no idea what you plan to put on the other side of the valve.

triclover.jpg
Click to expand...

Doesn't that design sort of defeat the purpose of putting a valve on your vessel, AND a QD or triclover? I mean, if you swap that thing off the vessel has to be empty when you do it or you're looking at a huge mess.
 

Similar threads

jwill911
Fermzilla Gen 3.0 doing away with the dreaded collection jar
Replies
9
Views
2K
jwill911
jwill911
M
For Sale Brewhemoth 22 Gallon Conical Fermenter with 3/8" Chiller coil $700 - will ship
Replies
1
Views
638
Mellman
M
B
For Sale 1/2BBL (15gal) all grain setup for sale. Self collection in Boise, Idaho
Replies
0
Views
394
bradybjr
B
segallis
Fermenter King Unitank Question
Replies
3
Views
770
segallis
segallis
ferm.adventures
Sold 20 gallon OG Spike Solo Kettle (npt) ($250) (Connecticut)
Replies
4
Views
439
ferm.adventures
ferm.adventures
CornyKegs 300

Latest posts

Back
Top