Easy Stove-Top Pasteurizing - With Pics

okemasis said:

I love this method, but always end up with some lees in my bottles after the week of carbonating. Does anyone else run into this, and is there a way around it? I want to check because it could just be sediment, as I only filter through a mesh bag, which is not very fine.

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If you are going to bottle condition, i.e. have the yeast in the bottle and eating up some sugar to produce CO2 in the bottle, you will get a small layer of yeast at the bottom of the bottle. If you get the rid of the yeast before bottling (by cold-crashing and filtering, for example) then you would need to force carbonate it in a keg.

Did my 1st cider about a month ago..all good!

Pasteurising the 2nd batch...had 2 bombs go off in the pot! Scared the pants of me!

Did exactly as stated in this thread both times with 2 different results...
Trying to get a fridge, may start cold crashing after last night!

great thread papps, thanks for all the information...

I did a cider back on Nov 23 using a cry nottingham yeast, unfiltered organic apple cider and dextrose. It was actively bubbling for 3 weeks, so I let it go and took a hydrometer sample on 12/21 and got 1.010. Time got away from me with the holidays, so here I am with a cider 6 weeks in the carboy. I took another hydro reading and it doesn;t seem like it dropped below 1.008, but it's definitely much drier and less sweet...it actually has some natural fizz to it now.
Here's my plan:
I;m going to crash cool it to 40, I assume like beer, it won;t drop out all the yeast and like my beers, I bottle them cold with less priming sugar and they always turn out fine. In this case I plan to backsweeten, but hope to have enough carbonation at the time of bottling to just pasteurize (once I let the bottles come up to room temp-if they don't have a decent level of carbonation, I'll check every day since it already has some fizz and won;t need much to carb.
I plan on using mostly 22oz bottles, would you use the same temp profile, 190 for 10 minutes? thx.

I was glad to find this procedure spelled out and tried it on a batch this summer to good effect. A second time something got out of hand, probably let the water get too hot and I lost some fizz to over heating. It was a bit more 'still' than I had planned but still very palatable.
cheers!

So my first batch required lots of sugar for back sweetening so I took extra precautions. I was gonna pasteurize to keep them from exploding essentially. I am just now getting half way through and I checked one of the bottles I had already pasteurized and it was a gusher. I check two more and had the same issue. Before I began I checked several bottles to make sure the weren't over carbed, and I thought they were perfect. Does anyone know why they became gushers? Will they stop doing so after cooling completely or being refrigerated?

Try chilling one before opening. Cold liquid holds more CO2 than warm. Give it a day or more to re-absorb the CO2 driven out before popping it open.

ChrisVZ said:

Try chilling one before opening. Cold liquid holds more CO2 than warm. Give it a day or more to re-absorb the CO2 driven out before popping it open.

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thanks! Just got nervous since i was planning on handing them out. i feel that would be a crappy gift.

OK so I've used the stove top method with great results. Now I wanna get a large stainless pot with removable basket and top. Large enough to hold six 12 oz bottles with the lid on. I plan on modifying it with a big dial thermometer. Anyone know what I mean and where I can get it?

MarkKF said:

OK so I've used the stove top method with great results. Now I wanna get a large stainless pot with removable basket and top. Large enough to hold six 12 oz bottles with the lid on. I plan on modifying it with a big dial thermometer. Anyone know what I mean and where I can get it?

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You can get your basket and maybe the whole setup you describe in the canning/preserving section of your local superstore of farm supply store.

I know this question has already been asked and answered somewhere in this huge thread. I just cannot find it, so I gotta ask again.

If I ferment to 1.000, and back-sweeten to 1.013, and then bottle in 22 oz. bottles, is there a way to use FG to calculate potential CO2 volumes, assuming all of the sugar is fermentable? All of the carbonation calculators I can find measure sugar adjunct by weight or volume, and I'd like to use gravity.

What I'm getting at: I want to know if cider that is bottled at 1.013 will become a bomb. I have always pasteurized in the past, but am wondering if I need to in this instance.

Again, I know the answer is already out there. My apologies for repeating the question. As always, thanks! I've avoided a lot of mistakes from the good info I've picked up here.

Do you want the cider to be dry? Because, if I'm understanding your question correctly, the yeast will eat up all your backsweetening sugar, leaving you with no backsweetening.

ShadyHoller said:

I know this question has already been asked and answered somewhere in this huge thread. I just cannot find it, so I gotta ask again.

If I ferment to 1.000, and back-sweeten to 1.013, and then bottle in 22 oz. bottles, is there a way to use FG to calculate potential CO2 volumes, assuming all of the sugar is fermentable? All of the carbonation calculators I can find measure sugar adjunct by weight or volume, and I'd like to use gravity.

What I'm getting at: I want to know if cider that is bottled at 1.013 will become a bomb. I have always pasteurized in the past, but am wondering if I need to in this instance.

Again, I know the answer is already out there. My apologies for repeating the question. As always, thanks! I've avoided a lot of mistakes from the good info I've picked up here.

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Pappers_ said:

Do you want the cider to be dry? Because, if I'm understanding your question correctly, the yeast will eat up all your backsweetening sugar, leaving you with no backsweetening.

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Right, I should have clarified that. I'd be OK if it returns to dry. I'm thinking along the lines of a dry apple champagne. In the past I have been gun-shy, and have pasteurized with residual sugar before much carbonation has built up. Just wondering if 1.013 (if fully fermented in the bottle) could be expected to produce enough CO2 to blow the stack.

FWIW, most of this year's batch is going to be pasteurized before the sugar ferments.

I don't know about your 1.013 question.

If you want it dry, there's no need to backsweeten, you could just prime as you normally would, then wouldn't have to worry about over pressurized bottles.

Hello,

(this answer may be somewhere in this thread...)

Does anyone know how much granulated or corn sugar is needed to prime just 1 gallon for carbonation? I used EdWort's Apfelwein recipe... Also, I do want to backsweeten, which I can do with nutrasweet, splenda, or whatever. Does anyone know about how much sweetner I would need? I have quite a few of the small sweenter packages at home. Does either sweetner (prime or back) need to be added to water and boiled prior to adding to the batch?

A half packet of Montrachet yeast was used which I have heard causes it to be dry...

When bottling I am going to put some in a plastic bottle as well, I heard by using one you can get an indicator of how your carbonation is doing by feeling the pressure...

Thanks!

ND

Pappers_ said:

If you want it dry, there's no need to backsweeten, you could just prime as you normally would, then wouldn't have to worry about over pressurized bottles.

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Right. Good point. I only ask because we back-sweetened (in bulk) everything that we bottled, with the intention of pasteurizing as soon as it developed mild carbonation, using the squeezie plastic water bottle test. The thought of letting some continue to ferment in the bottle didn't occur to me until that whole batch was sweetened and bottled, in the neighborhood of 1.012-1.013. I thought I could just leave a few bottles out of the pasteurizing treatment, and let them become apple champagne, but I'm starting to think that, at this sugar level, we might be risking too much carbonation.

(We have some remaining cider that is completely dry and still, in bulk-storage in carboys, so I guess can use that, with a little priming sugar, for a dry sparkling bubbly.)

Anyway, I'll stop hogging the stage here. Thanks for talking me out of a half-baked idea. I don't want exploded bottles in the basement. Or anywhere else.

This looks awesome. I have 3 questions:

1.) Is this technique ok for Oxidized caps? (it doesn't melt the plastic)
2.) Does this process effectively stop your cider from getting vinegary?
3.) Has anyone ever tried this by putting bottles in the oven and slowly heating to 190 degrees? This may be more time efficient

DrunkJohnnyAppleseed said:

This looks awesome. I have 3 questions:

1.) Is this technique ok for Oxidized caps? (it doesn't melt the plastic)
2.) Does this process effectively stop your cider from getting vinegary?
3.) Has anyone ever tried this by putting bottles in the oven and slowly heating to 190 degrees? This may be more time efficient

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I haven't tried the oven but have had success with the dishwasher. Uses lower temperatures over a longer period of time - feels safer to me and easier to clean if any do blow!

I used the Intensive setting that ran for a couple of hours - max temp of about 50 deg celsius with the whole 6 gallon batch done in one cycle and no bombs so far. Important to monitor your carbonation levels before any pasteurising method, of course.

I can honestly say I have read all 70 pages of this thread, but do not think there was an answer to my question...BTW, what great information! Has anyone done this with champagne yeast? What is the concern about a batch made with champagne or white wine yeast? Is it just so much more aggressive that it overcarbonates before you pastureize? My first couple batches are .998 now, so I think there are pretty much done. Hoping to prime with dextrose, bottle & pastuerize. Second question: my batches don't seem to be clearing (I did not use pectic enzyme)...is it too late to add that for more clarification? Would something else be better? Many thanks!

Welcome, Archer! I can't answer your question from experience. I think if you let the yeast ferment to dry (as I do now) and then backsweeten and pasteurize, I see no problem using champagne or wine yeast. These temps will knock them out. I think pectic enzyme needs to be added pre-fermentation, but I may be wrong.

I've watched all of seasons 1 and 2 of Archer on Netflix and I am secretly hoping your username is taken from the show.

Thank you, Papers. I already have an Archer avatar from the show for when I upgrade my membership here.

I will ask my local HBS if there is anything I can do for clarification; maybe I just need to be more patient. Would you happen to know if its better to age the cider either 1) in the 1 gallon carboys before bottling, etc. or 2) going ahead with bottling to 12 oz beer bottles, carbonating, pastuerizing, and then aging?

Archer said:

I can honestly say I have read all 70 pages of this thread, but do not think there was an answer to my question...BTW, what great information! Has anyone done this with champagne yeast? What is the concern about a batch made with champagne or white wine yeast? Is it just so much more aggressive that it overcarbonates before you pastureize? My first couple batches are .998 now, so I think there are pretty much done. Hoping to prime with dextrose, bottle & pastuerize. Second question: my batches don't seem to be clearing (I did not use pectic enzyme)...is it too late to add that for more clarification? Would something else be better? Many thanks!

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Archer,
I have pasterurized my ginger beer fermented with champagne yeast using this method. I very carefully watch carb levels by opening bottles every 12-24 hrs post bottling and then pasteurize using the method described in the first post. I have done this with both 12 oz and 22 oz glass bottles. I have had 2 bottle bombs in one pasteurizing batch(6 bottles) out of almost 2 dozen batches because I got the water too hot. Now I back it down by 10-15 degrees and leave sit 50% longer.

What is the temp and time for pasteurizing 22 oz bottles? Still 190 for 10 minutes or do I need to go longer?

Thanks!

alers22 said:

What is the temp and time for pasteurizing 22 oz bottles? Still 190 for 10 minutes or do I need to go longer?

Thanks!

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I don't pasteurize 22 ouncers, but wanted to say that I typically use 180 F now. Just pasteurized another batch last Thursday, without incident.

Pappers_ said:

I don't pasteurize 22 ouncers, but wanted to say that I typically use 180 F now. Just pasteurized another batch last Thursday, without incident.

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Anybody have experience with larger bottles? I have a couple nice 32oz. bottles I planned on using for my next batch.

alers22 said:

What is the temp and time for pasteurizing 22 oz bottles? Still 190 for 10 minutes or do I need to go longer?

Thanks!

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I ran an experiment back in october and posted the results here. 8 22oz in 2 1/2 gal of 190 degree water for 20 min got them up to 138F. When I did it for real, I did 6 at a time in 3 gal of water for 20 min. to make sure they got hot enough.

Hey all. I've read a handful of pages here. Great stuff! If its already been asked then I apologize but I couldn't find it. Anyways here's my question. I'm making a hard lemonade and don't want it to go past about 9%. Will this method work for the hard lemonade? I want to carb it in bottle then shut down the ferment.

idrinkstuffnthings said:

Hey all. I've read a handful of pages here. Great stuff! If its already been asked then I apologize but I couldn't find it. Anyways here's my question. I'm making a hard lemonade and don't want it to go past about 9%. Will this method work for the hard lemonade? I want to carb it in bottle then shut down the ferment.

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It should work. You could let the lemonade ferment to dry, then backsweeten with more lemonade, bottle, and pasteurize when the bottles are carbed.

Ya if it stops the ferment. This recipe can apparently get a little carried away and go upwards of 15%+. Just wanna be prepared for the worst. If I back sweeten do I just add sugar to taste then bottle and pasteurize when ready?

idrinkstuffnthings said:

Ya if it stops the ferment. This recipe can apparently get a little carried away and go upwards of 15%+. Just wanna be prepared for the worst. If I back sweeten do I just add sugar to taste then bottle and pasteurize when ready?

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It will stop the fermentation if it kills the yeast. What kind of yeast do you use in your recipe?

When I backsweeten cider, what I do is add more apple juice, bottle immediately, and start checking the bottles for carbonation levels in a couple of days. Sorry, I've never made hard lemonade so can't speak from experience with that.

I used EC 1118. The recipe uses ALOT of sugar. The acidic nature of the lemon is supposed to kill off the yeast early. But it doesn't always. Then you get high abv. So I'm just kinda being ready for worst case. After reading more I've got an idea. Gunna cold crash at right abv. Let it clear. Then bottle and pasteurize at right carb amount.

Best to do this outside on a coleman stove or turkey fryer to avoid the wifes wrath. You might go a whole case before WHAMO

I am looking to make homemade wine coolers and want to use this method to stop fermentation after carbonation has been achieved... I am looking to use a champagne yeast and just didn't know if it would work with this type of yeast? Any experience?

Any help would b appreciated! Thanks!

Pappers_ said:

When fermentation slows down, I start taking gravity readings and tastings. When its at the right level of sweetness/dryness (for me, that's about 1.010- 1.014), rack to bottling bucket with priming solution and bottle.

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Hey all,

First time cider brewer here, I've searched pretty far and wide and can't quite understand this part. I messaged the OP, but figure I might as well just ask the group.

5 gallons treetop, 5 cups sugar, 1/2 t wyeast nutrients and a vial of WLP775 Cider yeast.

Started at 1.069 and 7 days in primary I'm at 1.012

Can I safely prime and bottle now? And should I prime exactly like a beer batch?


Thanks!

michael_mus said:

Hey all,

First time cider brewer here, I've searched pretty far and wide and can't quite understand this part. I messaged the OP, but figure I might as well just ask the group.

5 gallons treetop, 5 cups sugar, 1/2 t wyeast nutrients and a vial of WLP775 Cider yeast.

Started at 1.069 and 7 days in primary I'm at 1.012

Can I safely prime and bottle now? And should I prime exactly like a beer batch?

Thanks!

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Id say if your at the gravity you wanna stop at sure prime and bottle. Just keep an eye on them to make sure they dont overcarb. Fill a plastic bottle as a guide so yiu can check every 12 hrs or open one every day or so to get a gauge on how fast its carbing then pasturize

Ostomo517 said:

Id say if your at the gravity you wanna stop at sure prime and bottle. Just keep an eye on them to make sure they dont overcarb.

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Great, thanks!

I can share my response to Michael's pm with everybody. These days, my base recipe for a simple, semi-dry cider that non-craft drinkers almost universally enjoy is:

1) 3 gallons of apple juice, pectic enzyme and Nottingham yeast into a 3 gallon carboy
2) ferment to dry, until the fermentation is finished
3) backsweeten with 1 gallon of apple juice and bottle immediately; pasteurize when the bottles are carbonated; I heat the water to 180F now, down from the 190F that I used to use; have never had a bottle blow, either during pastuerizing or afterwards

Sometimes I will backsweeten with another kind of juice, like pomegranate or raspberry.

Pappers, So you have diluted your original 3 gallons...what does that do to your alcohol content? Any way to predict this? I have 3 gallons of pretty high (9%?) alcohol content in secondary that is now down to 1.000, and I'd likle to end up at about 5-6% after back sweetening. How do I figure out how much juice to add on the back end?

I may have stumbled across the answer on another post...

To calculate the change in ABV by adding water:

(original volume * alcohol percentage) / new volume

if you added half a gallon water to 3 gal of 8.46% ABV:
3 * 0.0846 / 3.5 = 7.41% ABV

If I sweeten with apple juice or concentrate and pastuerize before it ferments, then wouldn't that be like adding water?

Archer said:

I may have stumbled across the answer on another post...

To calculate the change in ABV by adding water:

(original volume * alcohol percentage) / new volume

if you added half a gallon water to 3 gal of 8.46% ABV:
3 * 0.0846 / 3.5 = 7.41% ABV

If I sweeten with apple juice or concentrate and pastuerize before it ferments, then wouldn't that be like adding water?

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Seems like it would to me.

Has anyone tryed putting the bottles in a cooler, heated the water and poured it over them maintaing the temp to the 180F specification for 10 mins. Or do you think this would work?