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I was talking about the classic fermenter... is there a jug?

You're the one who said you had a Mr Beer jug that you were considering using as an extended hopper. I was asking what you meant by jug.

I'm not familiar with the classic fermenter. Mr Beer has had a number of different fermenters over the years. They had a small one they called a Pilot that I think was 6 quarts (same sized refills, I think you added water at bottling time), they had some larger fermenters (6.5 gallons or so) and they've had the 8.5 qt barrel shaped fermenter (the one they have now that many people call the Little Brown Keg or LBK). The one they have now is noticeably darker than earlier versions of the LBK.

Which one are you calling the classic fermenter?
 
I just ordered a Mr. Beer from Amazon. Kinda excited, maybe about a week or so until I have time to use it.

I def. haven't read through the whole thread, did read about the first 10 pages though. One question I have is with extract do you still need to boil, and hop, and chill, and whatever else with the wort?

I have a couple wines going, but am growing impatient at waiting for them to clear lol. Besides, I'm a beer guy, however, reading about the 1-3+ hour brew days always turned me off. With work and a family, hard to find the time to allow for that.

Anyways, I'm planning on minimum 2 weeks in the Mr. Beer keg fermenting, maybe 3, then minimum 2 weeks bottle condition before even cracking a first tester. I have some patience, but man, that first 2+ month apfelwein barely started to clear. I'd be happy to wait minimum of 4 weeks for a first tester brew!
 
I just ordered a Mr. Beer from Amazon. Kinda excited, maybe about a week or so until I have time to use it.

I def. haven't read through the whole thread, did read about the first 10 pages though. One question I have is with extract do you still need to boil, and hop, and chill, and whatever else with the wort?

I have a couple wines going, but am growing impatient at waiting for them to clear lol. Besides, I'm a beer guy, however, reading about the 1-3+ hour brew days always turned me off. With work and a family, hard to find the time to allow for that.

Anyways, I'm planning on minimum 2 weeks in the Mr. Beer keg fermenting, maybe 3, then minimum 2 weeks bottle condition before even cracking a first tester. I have some patience, but man, that first 2+ month apfelwein barely started to clear. I'd be happy to wait minimum of 4 weeks for a first tester brew!

If you're using one of the Mr Beer kits, you don't need to do a hop boil because the extract is prehopped. In fact, boiling the HME (Hopped Malt Extract) can change the characteristics of the hops in it, so you want to avoid that.

There are instructions that come with it, but basically, you'll add Booster to cold water, bring it to a boil, turn the water off and add the HME, then add that to cold water in the fermenter, then top if off to the 8.5 Qt mark. Make sure you have cold water in it before adding the hot wort or you'll warp the fermenter.

Once you've got it all in the fermenter, whip it up really good (this is not just to mix the ingredients, but to introduce oxygen that the yeast use in the intial stages). Then sprinkle the yeast on top, wait 5 minutes and whip it up again. Then just leave it alone for two weeks or so.
 
This is my first post but I have been reading for several weeks. My introduction into home brewing was a "Mr. Beer" kit back in 1998. I am getting back into brewing after a 4 year hiatus. Thank you "Mr. Beer"!
 
I will always owe gratitude to Mr. Beer as well. I recently stopped using my MB stuff and graduated up to the 5 gallon batches. MB is excellent to get your feet wet into brewing b/c if you don't like you don't have much invested. If you do like it, you can move up with having too much stuck into the old equipment. Wherever brewing leads me, my start was MB!
 
I just stopped using Mr. Beer and am fermenting my first five gallon batch. A friend gave me the mb kit and one refill, i am passing it on along with the one refill i had left so that someone else can enjoy this hobby. Thank you Mr beer.
 
I started with a Mr. Beer kit more than a few moons ago. I am not sure if I did something wrong, but I found it to be terrible (as I recall) and it made me wonder if making good beer at home could be done. I bought the books, I read them. I searched what was available on the interwebs back in the day (much less than there is now). Found a few on-line stores, ordered a basic 5 gal equipment kit (bucket fermenter, bottling bucket, racking cane, you know the one). Brewed a pre-hopped kit. Made more less than great beer. Read some more, brewed a true extract added hops, followed the instructions..... Viola!! Good Beer!! Mr. Beer sat in the closet, re-located to a new state with me, then found a new home with someone who tried my homebrew and said something to the effect of I would love to try something like this.
 
I just brewed my first batch of beer ever with Mr. Beer 3 weeks ago. It's the West Coast Pale Ale. I went ahead and added hops to it. I used an ounce of Golding palletized hops. I boiled 1/2 oz for 30 min. And added the other 1/2 oz 5 min before ending the boil. Since it's only a 2 gallon batch I figured that should be plenty. After the boil I put the wort in the sink full of ice water.
I am shocked how well my first batch turned out. I drank a regular beer today ( I think it was a typical light beer mass produced) and could barely finish it because it wasn't nearly as good as my beer. Thank you mr beer. I'm in love with homebrew!!
 
I'm on my 4th batch (brewed Sunday the 5th) and I have to say that all of them have acted differently regarding signs of fermentation. The straight up basic kit (Golden Cowboy Lager) took right off, within a few minutes. The deluxe kit (HCCD and Pale Export) took off after about 2.5 hours. The last two batches I've done hop boils in DME to start out and then added the HME at flameout. Those have taken a lot longer to start a krausen ring but both had a trub layer within an hour or three. Those I just left alone and after the night passed, generally they were producing krausen the next day. My fermenting area runs 67 to 70 as it's right next to the AC units in the back space of the finished basement. The AC runs all day now that it's summer and keeps the back room consistently temped. It's nice to read all the posts in this topic that basically reassure you and let you know to RDWHAHB!!
 
I've been brewing with Mr. Beer now for about 8 months. Started off with the basic refills, then graduated to their recipe kits. In that time i have experimented with adding dme, carapils and other steeping grains, higher quality yeasts, and most recently fruit (pumpkin to be exact) to enhance the beer made. So far the kits have impressed me quite a bit. As of now i am looking to start biab all grain brewing but i will continue to use the LBK's as my primary ferms simply because they fit so perfectly in my ferm chamber (johnson controlled dorm fridge). 5 gal buckets just don't work for me and the small batches help to broaden my pipeline's variety.
 
I also just moved on from Mr. Beer kits to all-extract/5-gallon batches. I put an order in with a mail-order supplier and I'm just waiting to get it all in--waiting on shipping to an APO is no fun. I got a 6.5gal plastic fermenter and a bottling bucket, 2 immersion chillers (I have a plan to 'super-cool' the wort to get it down to pitching temp QUICKLY), some bottling supplies, a cream ale recipe, and some miscellaneous hardware, parts, and pieces. I've considered looking at the clubs on post and off to see if anyone's getting rid of any empty kegs...maybe I can builid my own kegerator while I'm over here with used parts out of the ville...but I digress..

I appreciate Mr. Beer for what it is--an ENTRY level homebrewing experience. It got me started and I'm glad for that. As others have said, if you don't want to move up, you can get acceptable beer from the kits and your investment isn't that much. However, if you DO decide you want to move on, it's a GREAT place to start because you can get acceptable beer with minimal investment that you can learn tips and techniques that you want to carry forward to your 5-gal batches. I've learned alot with each batch that I've made from MB, and I'm sure the learning curve is STEEPer (hahaha, get it, it's word-play....steep....nevermind) with 5-gal extract brewing (let's not even discuss all-grain) but I never would have made it this far without my wife getting me a Mr. Beer kit.
 
Well, my first mr. beer kit has been in the primary for 2 weeks. Planning on bottling it this weekend or next! However, I know the directions state use table sugar and prime bottles. I have a bottling bucket, so I figured I'd just batch prime to make it easier. But how? How much water should I boil and how much sugar should I dissolve? I know it's more technical and should be calculated out, but isn't there fallback safe (non bombable) average amount to use when priming?
 
Well, my first mr. beer kit has been in the primary for 2 weeks. Planning on bottling it this weekend or next! However, I know the directions state use table sugar and prime bottles. I have a bottling bucket, so I figured I'd just batch prime to make it easier. But how? How much water should I boil and how much sugar should I dissolve? I know it's more technical and should be calculated out, but isn't there fallback safe (non bombable) average amount to use when priming?

I used an online calculator a long time ago and came up with 60 grams of sugar for a Mr Beer batch. I slightly overfill, so my batch size was about 2.4 gallons. I add the sugar to about a cup of water, heat it in the microwave for about a minute, stir to dissolve all of the sugar, then bring it to a boil. You want to be careful that you don't let it boil long, or it will turn to candy.

I always let it cool to near room temperature before adding it to the priming container, but some people just add it hot, since it will cool quickly and only kill a few yeast cells that it comes in contact at the start.

I forget what calculator I used, but Screwy Brewer has one that takes into account things like style, fermenting temperature, etc and allows you to use measurements instead of weights if you don't have a kitchen scale.
 
That 60 gram amount sounds about right for 8 liters. FWIW that's about 1/3 cup of table sugar. Simply bring about a half of a cup of water to a boil, then pour in the sugar. Stir thoroughly to dissolve. An alternative is to add the sugar and water to a microwave safe dish (e.g. Pyrex measuring cup) and nuke it for a minute or two. Again, stir it to make sure everything dissolves completely. Now, syphon your beer from the fermenter into your priming vessel and add the priming syrup to this mix. Stir thoroughly to disperse the simple syrup evenly throughout the beer, but do not splash. Syphon into bottles & seal. Leave at room temperature for at a couple of weeks to ferment, carbonate, and clarify. Longer is better. In the future replace the booster with more malt (HME, LME, DME, etc) if you prefer a fuller-bodied beer. Hope this helps.

Scott Birdwell
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
 
I certainly got my start with Mr Beer. Drinking batch number 3 right now, the Bavarian Weissbier and have the Czech Pilsner in the bottles ready to go to the refrigerator next weekend. Awaiting an order of a 3-pack to get number 5 going. I was given an Ale Pale set and am reading 2 of Papazian's books right now, and am hoping to start a 5-gallon batch of Pumpkin Ale soon. I'm in that middle stage, where I want to do both. Mr Beer is my comfort zone, but I am ready to grow a bit. Just need to take that plunge and start.

Tom
 
Thomas,
There is certainly nothing wrong with a "comfort zone" when it comes to homebrewing. However, I think you will find the "Ale Pail" set to be pretty much the same, except bigger and easier to clean and maintain than the Mr. Beer. The real difference comes from the ingredients and procedure that you use to produce the beer, regardless of the equipment. The Ale Pail is not necessarily different than the Mr. Beer. You can do "dump & stir" brewing with the Ale Pail or all-grain with the Mr. Beer, or vice versa. The Ale Pail, like Mr. Beer, is a proprietary brewing set-up, but because the five gallon size has been the standard in the homebrewing industry for so long, you will likely find that are an almost endless variations on "skinning that cat," compared to the Mr. Beer. These same recipes and techniques could obviously be scaled down from 5 gallon to 8 liters, though. Most experienced homebrewers, however, would consider that there is too much time and effort required to brew to end up with only a handful of bottles. Ending up with nine six-packs for your time and effort is nice! We have a lot of customers that brew 10 - 20 gallon batches. I don't think they're washing a lot of bottles, though :) Good luck!

Scott Birdwell
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
Houston TX
 
I was running out of space and time due to 2 young kids, so I worked on a way to produce the quality of homebrew I've been enjoying since I started the hobby 8 years ago, but on a much smaller scale. I came up with brewing 12 pack size batches and after some trial and error found a way to be extremely consistent with finished volume and quality. It is rare that I make anything but these size batches and now I can brew after the kids head to bed and still be done at a decent time to hit the sack. I also brew multiple times a week now, so I've always got a wide variety of tasty brews in the fridge. I love small batch brewing!
 
I was running out of space and time due to 2 young kids, so I worked on a way to produce the quality of homebrew I've been enjoying since I started the hobby 8 years ago, but on a much smaller scale. I came up with brewing 12 pack size batches and after some trial and error found a way to be extremely consistent with finished volume and quality. It is rare that I make anything but these size batches and now I can brew after the kids head to bed and still be done at a decent time to hit the sack. I also brew multiple times a week now, so I've always got a wide variety of tasty brews in the fridge. I love small batch brewing!

As the saying goes, "To each, their own!" Seems like a lot of work for a twelve pack, but obviously it's not too tedious for you and having variety is definitely nice. Have fun!

Scott Birdwell
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
Houston TX
 
Thanks Mr. Beer for getting me interested. I started brewing at the beginning of the year, and Mr. Beer was my gateway to it.

I did two batches with it before moving on to my LHBS extract brewing starter kit and turkey fryer. I'm content to continue on with extract brewing for a while, but eventually I will want to equip for AG.
I have to say, the Mr. Beer came out great as far as I and my wife were concerned. I read the first few pages of this thread and saw that a couple people weren't happy with the results. There are three possible explanations for this that I can think of:

1. You did it wrong. Read the instructions more than once. If you just follow the directions, you're going to get decent beer.

2. The kit contained old/mishandled extract & yeast.

3. Your expectations were set too high. It's not going to make a 35 point beer, but it will be decent if you follow the directions.

I agree with the folks that recommended substituting dextrose (corn sugar) for table sugar when it comes to priming. Also, mixing a priming solution with it rather than measuring it out into individual bottles is a much better way to go. And don't use tap water if you're on a chlorinated municipal supply.
I did have a couple of flat bottles on my second brew, so what I also learned that the plastic bottles and plastic caps need to really be cranked down after the initial use.

I'm currently on my third extract brew, but I still get some use out of Mr. Beer for cider/hooch. And you can always loan it out to a buddy that might want to get into brewing too. You certainly can't complain about the value.
 
. . . a couple people weren't happy with the results. There are three possible explanations for this that I can think of:

1. You did it wrong. Read the instructions more than once. If you just follow the directions, you're going to get decent beer.

2. The kit contained old/mishandled extract & yeast.

3. Your expectations were set too high. It's not going to make a 35 point beer, but it will be decent if you follow the directions.

A few comments on the above:
1) Definitely a possibility. It's amazed me over the past 30 plus years the number of customers that have come in and bought more or less the same ingredients and yet ended up with noticeably different results. Procedure is important!

2) Possible but probably not probable. Malt syrup does get old if left on the shelf and the color darkens noticeably with age. Yeast will likely go before the syrup, but the shelf life is something like 2 years.

3) The most likely of the three IMHO. I tasted a lot of initial MB batches that customers have brought in over the years and have been underwhelmed myself. I don't think the main problem is the quality of the HME or the dried yeast provided, so much as the quantity (at least of the HME). Frankly, 1.2 lbs. of malt extract for 8 liters of beer is very light in my opinion, especially if you are hoping for import/craft beer results. Two cans will produce a noticeably better beer (unless you prefer standard domestic beer). I see that Mr. Beer is beginning to release some larger cans (1.8 lbs) and I expect that the results will be noticeably better. Replacing the booster with more malt is a good start.

Other potential pitfalls include:
4) Fermentation temperature. We're probably extra sensitive to this on the Gulf Coast, but temperatures in the upper 70's & low 80's will yield noticeably inferior results. Sometimes this is difficult to avoid in the six months of the year that we call summer down here. If possible, choose cooler temperatures (62° - 70°F). You'll be glad you did.

5) Age. Many beginning homebrewers underestimate just how much the flavor of homebrew improves with adequate aging. What tastes like crap at a week or two in the bottle may taste MUCH better at three to four weeks, and absolutely great at two to three months. FWIW I've noticed this difference is even more pronounced on homebrews with a relatively high percentage of adjuncts (e.g. sugar, booster, honey, etc.). If you use a whole package of Booster in a batch, that's 13 oz. of adjunct versus only 19 oz. of malt extract (actually, if you remove the moisture from the syrup, it would closer to 16 - 17 oz. of dried malt extract). You're approaching 45 - 50% adjuncts. Hopefully MB will move toward those larger cans and dump the Booster in the future. Better flavor, fuller-body, quicker aging. Can I have an "Amen" from the choir?

Scott Birdwell
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
Houston TX
 
Hi. Was hoping to get some info on a hop variety. I bought some rhizomes from a hop farm in Tasmania in Australia. I live in western Australia. The variety is called red earth. I cannot find any info on this variety on the Internet and the provider has got no more info other than when hops are developing they can have a red hue to them and that they have a earthy woody aroma.

Anyone got any more info on red earth hops.

Cheers
Josh
 
Hi. Was hoping to get some info on a hop variety. I bought some rhizomes from a hop farm in Tasmania in Australia. I live in western Australia. The variety is called red earth. I cannot find any info on this variety on the Internet and the provider has got no more info other than when hops are developing they can have a red hue to them and that they have a earthy woody aroma.

Anyone got any more info on red earth hops.

Cheers
Josh

You might get better results in the ingredients forum: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/

or maybe the hops growing forum: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f92/

But there may not be much out there about these. I did a google search and only found one link (http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=65327) which was a posting on another forum asking if anybody knew anything about them.
 
As the saying goes, "To each, their own!" Seems like a lot of work for a twelve pack, but obviously it's not too tedious for you and having variety is definitely nice. Have fun!

Scott Birdwell
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
Houston TX

It's not work, it's fun! I'd brew every night if I could!
 
2) Possible but probably not probable. Malt syrup does get old if left on the shelf and the color darkens noticeably with age. Yeast will likely go before the syrup, but the shelf life is something like 2 years.

Hopefully MB will move toward those larger cans and dump the Booster in the future. Better flavor, fuller-body, quicker aging. Can I have an "Amen" from the choir?

Scott Birdwell
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
Houston TX

Agreed this is not the most likely of causes, but I'm thinking of the "picked it up at a yardsale" guy. I see these routinely at yardsales/fleamarkets etc...it seems a lot of people buy the kit, or receive it as a gift and then never use it. Who knows how long those have sat around and under what conditions?

Would you settle for a hell yeah? :rockin:
 
Agreed this is not the most likely of causes, but I'm thinking of the "picked it up at a yardsale" guy. I see these routinely at yardsales/fleamarkets etc...it seems a lot of people buy the kit, or receive it as a gift and then never use it. Who knows how long those have sat around and under what conditions?

Would you settle for a hell yeah? :rockin:

That's true, especially the gift part. Every November & December we sell tons of kits that end up in the hands of people who have no real interest in brewing. It's a shot in the dark gift idea, especially for folks who are hard to buy for. Most of the other 10 1/2 months of the year, the vast majority of the kits actually get used because the people that buy them are either the end user or they were requested by someone who wants to brew. Perhaps this is one difference between Mr. Beer & typical LHBS kits: MB gets sold for a little as $30 - $40 and most LHBS kits with ingredients go for around $100, if not more. People tend to consider whether they are actually going to use the item before spending that kind of money. But, for $30 - $40, you might just buy it on a whim. Hopefully, they'll follow through. . .

The other part of this is the "abused/mishandled" aspect. If the dried yeast is stored in the garage during the heat of the summer, it is going to lose viability quickly. Meanwhile the syrup is darkening and losing all semblance of subtlety.

I still suspect that the major source of dissatisfaction is the expectation that the beer will taste just like (fill in commercial beer name here) and when the beer tastes rough with a noticeable twang (especially if being sampled too early), they're let down. As the expression goes, "Patience, Grasshopper!" It'll get better!

Scott Birdwell
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
Houston TX
 
Thanks for all the great advice on here, everyone! I finally settled on a kit from Midwest, along with a Autumn Amber ale kit. Didn't spend big money, and pretty much have what I need to get started. My best advice to other noobs is this: TAKE THE TIME TO READ THROUGH THESE FORUMS! Ask questions. Check out the websites for the various vendors you see on here (some have really great FAQ and instructional sections). I can say that it took very little time to get a general idea of what to expect, what you need, and what to do IF you do your homework first. I'll keep everyone posted on how my first brew day goes! Thanks again...
 
Thanks for all the great advice on here, everyone! I finally settled on a kit from Midwest, along with a Autumn Amber ale kit. Didn't spend big money, and pretty much have what I need to get started. My best advice to other noobs is this: TAKE THE TIME TO READ THROUGH THESE FORUMS! Ask questions. Check out the websites for the various vendors you see on here (some have really great FAQ and instructional sections). I can say that it took very little time to get a general idea of what to expect, what you need, and what to do IF you do your homework first. I'll keep everyone posted on how my first brew day goes! Thanks again...

So I take it you got the Starter Plus kit with the bottles and kettle? Cool. I won't say good luck, I'll just say have fun! You're gonna love it.

PM-ing you with some tips for your first batch.:mug:
 
It looks like the full lineup of the new refill kits is now up on the Mr. Beer site. There's 3 distinct levels of kits (maybe 3.5?):

"Standard": $15.95-17.95
3.7 % ABV, single 1.87 lb can of HME; 10 varieties, ranging from light "lagers" to Irish Stout

"Craft": $21.95
5.5% ABV, single 2.86 lb can of HME; 4 varieties, focusing on full-bodied ales

"Deluxe": $19.44-25.44
Any of the above kits, with a pouch of (style appropriate) UME that adds 1% ABV to the base kit

Standard refills are available now, as they have been for some time; everything else comes online Sept 4th. I assume we'll see individual ingredients (HME/UME) for sale at some point soon after that. I imagine we'll continue to see some sort of seasonal releases as well, that focus on more than just higher ABV, since the normal range now spans from 3.7 up to 6.5% ABV already.

On the plus side: All refills are now all-malt, booster seems to be a thing of the past. These kits will probably, on the whole, make better beers than the old kits. There's more variety of off-the-shelf higher ABV beers now; ~6%+ ABV kits are no longer limited to single-run "Seasonal" specials.

On the downside: Prices have gone up. Most of the Premium & Deluxe kits aren't that far off the price you could brew a 5 gal extract batch for. Then again, Mr. Beer has never been the value proposition (Aside from initial startup cost).
 
bpgreen said:
I used an online calculator a long time ago and came up with 60 grams of sugar for a Mr Beer batch. I slightly overfill, so my batch size was about 2.4 gallons. I add the sugar to about a cup of water, heat it in the microwave for about a minute, stir to dissolve all of the sugar, then bring it to a boil. You want to be careful that you don't let it boil long, or it will turn to candy.

I always let it cool to near room temperature before adding it to the priming container, but some people just add it hot, since it will cool quickly and only kill a few yeast cells that it comes in contact at the start.

I forget what calculator I used, but Screwy Brewer has one that takes into account things like style, fermenting temperature, etc and allows you to use measurements instead of weights if you don't have a kitchen scale.

Thank you for sharing this! Very informative for a new brewer. It definitely helped me out! Happy brewing!
 
Certainly. It will cost a few hundred. CO2 tank, regulator, 2.5 gallon keg, hoses/connects/faucets... and a fridge space. :ban:
+1

You could actually use 5 gallon kegs, too, and they cost a lot less than 2.5 gallon kegs. You can either keg two batches at a time or just use a lot of CO2.
 
Anyone try mixing OVL and HCCD together with no booster? I did it a couple weeks ago just to try to use up HME cans I had sitting around. I tasted a sample last night and I'd call it a best bitter. Caramel maltiness before the bitterness hits the back of your tongue, fading to a nice floral aftertaste. I'm not big on bitters but I think I might like this one quite a bit.
 
Anyone try mixing OVL and HCCD together with no booster? I did it a couple weeks ago just to try to use up HME cans I had sitting around. I tasted a sample last night and I'd call it a best bitter. Caramel maltiness before the bitterness hits the back of your tongue, fading to a nice floral aftertaste. I'm not big on bitters but I think I might like this one quite a bit.

It's Mr Beer's "Fallen Friar" recipe:

Fallen Friar Hoppy ABV = 4.5% SRM = 12 IBU = 45
1 can High Country Canadian Draft
1 can Octoberfest Vienna Lager
1 Yeast Packet
1 Sterling Hops
ferment for 2 Weeks warm/cold carb 3 to 4 weeks

I have made this one twice since I like the HCCD anyways, and I really this body & feel / taste of this brew.
 
New Brew's post raises excellent points. Mr Beer will never be as cost effective as five gallon in the long run- nor five gallon as cost effective as ten and so forth. The smaller the batch the higher the cost per serving.

That said, the small batch size has its advantages for those of us with Beer ADHD and cost differences can be minimized by using half of a Muntons Gold kit or, better yet, moving away from kits all together.
 
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