Unveiling my brewery & garage build

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I don't see where you'd need to put spacers in there. I'd just put a layer of backer board over the existing sheetrock and put the SS back on top of that. You could then either get an SS edging or just fill the edge of the backer board with plaster and paint the elevated edge. It looks like your hood already has an inside lip on the back wall, so that would just bring the back SS panel out even or close to the hood edge.
 
Regarding the backing board, I've seen a lot of mixed information about whether or not it needs a spacer. I believe you two are probably right that I don't really *need* the gap, but it does make sense that it should be there. I believe code requires a wood stove to have a 1" spacer between the wall and the backer board, and then a non flammable surface material.

Currently the stainless backing on the wall underlaps the hood by a few inches, but to Jon's point, I could cut the height down so it sits flush with the bottom of the hood, and bump it out a bit for the backer.

Thanks for the info guys. I'm planning to do another round of taping and mudding the drywall next week in preperation for painting, so I'll look to address this then. I'll pickup the backing board and do a hand heat test with it next to the burner after a while to answer the gap/no gap question.
 
I see no reason to worry about redoing the drywall. I work in construction and have done a few restaurants. The one thing that would happen is double layer 5/8" drywall. Which does create a 1 hour rated wall. But that was also bc they were not standalone places so needed the break between the different stores. But this stainless would be applied straight to the drywall!! I know y risk it is a big deal. But also radiant heat has to be through the roof to penetrate the stainless and drywall to combust the wood framing behind it. And u said u used type x. Id say dont sweat it and enjoy u sweet setup!! Planning my next house build i def have a brewery in thought as a built in!!!

Cheers!
 
dcarroll86, I'll admit you are telling me what I want to hear. You are probably right, but I can't help but consider the risks. The wall here is a 1hr rated firewall (per code as it is 3ft from our property line) with two layers of type X, but only one of those layers is on the inside. If I recall my wall from the inside out is: 26gauge Stainless Steel, 5/8" TypeX, Studs and R21 insulation, 5/8" TypeX, plywood, and then siding.

My concern is the impact the heat will have on the in-wall materials, which include quite a bit of plumbing and electrical right there. I'm leaning towards slapping some backing board up there as JonW suggested. I figure for a couple of hours work, I may save myself years of uncertainty. My contractor will be coming by for a visit tomorrow though, so I'll fire up the burners for a bit and get his opinion on things.

Thanks again for all your thoughts! I should have started this thread and been picking your brains earlier. :)
 
I helped a friend build a small cabin and behind the wood stove we put hardy backer and a sheet of stainless. The next day the wood stove was cookin and we had to pull some siding off to repair a pluming leak for the outside faucet. The back side of the sheetrock was maybe ten degrees warmed that sheetrock down the wall away from the wood stove and the stainless behind the stove was so hot you couldn't keep your hand on it. If you added backer under the stainless you are going to be more than good to go
 
Wow, a separate building to brew in! Great looking build.

Those wok burners that you are using, how are they at maintaining a low boil?

I use a 23 tip one now, with 13 tips closed off. I find that they burn dirty yellow flame at low flame with natural gas. The tips of my burners are all aimed at each other.

I really only need it that low for 5 gallon boils, my 10 gallon boils are no problem.

next question: How long does it take to bring 12 gallons to boil with your setup.
 
That's so cool man. I'm a contractor in Maine and in my next home I'm going all out on a brewery. Great to see this. Check out hymiesbrew and Wayne Hymer inc on YouTube
 
My wife would cut me if she saw me reading this thread... haha My garage build has already tested the limits. :) Best of luck!
 
Every day in my new garage is a constant battle between making new messes and cleaning them up. This weekend the mess won for a while and some real work was achieved. The drywall is now done, and we're on to the mudding and taping.

I had some help for this one. 12' drywall sheets on the ceiling can be unwieldy.
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Making progress on a Saturday, despite our best efforts
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Finishing the last of the drywall with the help of a Bohemian Pilsner, just the thing for the job.
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Wow, a separate building to brew in! Great looking build.

Those wok burners that you are using, how are they at maintaining a low boil?

...
next question: How long does it take to bring 12 gallons to boil with your setup.

I'll have to get back to you on these. I've yet to brew on the full setup, as the build has been getting in the way. I do acknowledge that maintaining these on a low heat setting will be tricky. On mine, when I reduce power below about 1/3, they burn red and produce soot.

I've brought 6 gallons of water to a boil quicker than I ever could before on my SQ14 LP burner, but I haven't yet timed it.
 
Well, what's in a name? ;) As much as I like to think of the new building as 'my brewery', it is still located on my (residential) property, and therefore very much a 'homebrew' setup.

Perhaps someday of the knowledge and experience I gain from working on this project will help me with a proper nano build, but that's quite a ways over the horizon if it's there at all.
 
fall-line said:
Well, what's in a name? ;) As much as I like to think of the new building as 'my brewery', it is still located on my (residential) property, and therefore very much a 'homebrew' setup.

Perhaps someday of the knowledge and experience I gain from working on this project will help me with a proper nano build, but that's quite a ways over the horizon if it's there at all.

I believe detached buildings work in some states, just a zoning issue. You'll basically be set up f you wanna go commercial. Read the Healdsburg brewing company thread, sounds like you are in his circumstance.

Very, very cool though! Absolute best of
Luck and thanks for quick reply.
 
Every day in my new garage is a constant battle between making new messes and cleaning them up. This weekend the mess won for a while and some real work was achieved. The drywall is now done, and we're on to the mudding and taping.

I had some help for this one. 12' drywall sheets on the ceiling can be unwieldy.
8020063212_96a7616c62_c.jpg


Making progress on a Saturday, despite our best efforts
8020066674_55aa484887_c.jpg


Finishing the last of the drywall with the help of a Bohemian Pilsner, just the thing for the job.
8020066294_5df83b5d31_c.jpg

Great looking beer too? You're getting harder and harder to like...
 
Interesting point. I believe that in my state (WA), a separate location in a building zoned for commercial or light industrial purposes is required. Either way, I have a lot of home brewing to do before I consider anything further. Thanks for the kind words though, I'm looking forward to a lot of enjoyable brewing in here.
 
Great looking beer too? You're getting harder and harder to like...

haha, thanks.. I think. ;)

I was pretty pleased with how this beer turned out. I make very few beers that require laggering because I only have room in my chamber for one batch at a time. The guys working with me on the garage specifically requested a pils though, so I was happy to oblige. It is quite tasty, though it's starting to feel more like fall around here by the hour.
 
As far as state goes, Foggy Noggin over in Bothell brews out of a detached garage at his residence. 192 brewing in Kenmore used to brew out of his 192 square foot shed, but he moved. Not sure on local zoning. I think that is where your issue would be.
 
Jokenring, good to know - thank you. Again, no plans myself to go 'pro' any time soon, but it would be nice to brew more than 200 gallons a year. ;)

I'll look into that more if/when the time comes.
 
Drywall is done, first coats of tape & mud are on, and the remaining coats are happening today/tomorrow. Time to pickout some colors for the interior. I'm thinking fairly basic white/off white for a commercial shop look, but I'm not really a fan of white paint. I'll do semi-glosso on the walls for wipeability and eggshell or flat on the ceiling. Any thoughts? I'd love to see some examples.

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What's with the electrical outlets positioned at the top of the walls above the window? Never seen the put up that high before...

Otherwise, looking good! I dislike white as well, so I would probably go with a very light tan or cream color, just so it wasn't white.
 
The one you see in the photo there is for a retractable extension cord that will hang above the window (over the workbench). I had planned to install that outlet actually in the ceiling panel, but ended up just putting it on the wall.

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Yeah, the focus of this thread has been the brewery portion of the build for sure. I'm pretty excited about the garage and workshop capabilities of the building though too.
Here is an idea of what that part of the space it will hopefully look like when work is done

Garage 7.jpg
 
I may be missing it, Sorry ahead of time. Have you talked about what your plans are for the floor?
Looks very good so far.
 
A minor update to the brewing side of the project. My new MLT is complete, thanks to a last minute order from BobbyM.

I had planned to keep using my 10gal cooler for a while, but then you know.. stainless happened.
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Do checker board vct for the floor then seal it. That will clean up super easy and it's affordable flooring. What's with the guy talking about the outlets above the windows. Come on. I'm sure it's to plug lighting in. Anyway. Really cool here's my brew corner.

image-1555548855.jpg

I'm going to do a high end brewery in my next house.
 
A big thank you to the commenters who helped me decide on the cement backer board (JonW, dcarroll86, IM_Lars, Jokenring). I may be setting a dangerous precedent here, but I took your collective advice and got some 1/2" cement backer board for behind the stainless. I installed it last night from the bottom of the hood, down to about 12" above the floor, where I just put in a strip of 1/2" drywall to keep it flush.

I need to pickup some longer screws before I can re-apply the stainless, since there is an extra 1/2" of material to get through now. I'll get it back up, and trimmed out tonight.

I acknowledge that this may not have been absolutely necessary, but I'm going to feel a whole lot better doing 90 minute boils on high flame knowing this extra layer of protection is back there.

Backer board
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I've thought a lot about the floor situation, but haven't made any decisions. The plan right now is to keep it untreated.

My suggestion for the floor of the garage would be Rust-Oleum Epoxy Garage-Floor Coating Kit .

It would make clean up of any spills much easier.

With your floor brand new, and no clutter, it would be the perfect time to do it.
 
My suggestion for the floor of the garage would be Rust-Oleum Epoxy Garage-Floor Coating Kit .

It would make clean up of any spills much easier.

With your floor brand new, and no clutter, it would be the perfect time to do it.

Ditto, was thinking the exact same.

Sloping to a drain would be a plus.

PS - Love your sig quote. And your whole sig really.
 
Good thoughts, folks. I was anti-floor finishing because in my head I was thinking about the cost and time involved in grinding and polishing. This epoxy solution would be much easier. I do have fiberglass fibers in the concrete, so that'll be a bit of a challenge.. bit it sounds like I can hit the floor with a weed burner to singe off the ends of the fibers before applying. I'll take a closer look at this stuff - thank you.
 
Im_Lars said:
I may be missing it, Sorry ahead of time. Have you talked about what your plans are for the floor?
Looks very good so far.

1 vote for stained concrete.
 
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