ebay aquarium temp controller build

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Fascinating thread! Great price for these compared to other temp controllers on the market.

Question: have any of you used this specific one? ebay link

It has no model number, but appears to be from the same manufacturer. Price looks good, and I only need one to do cooling, not cooling and heating. Features "Refrigerating control output delay protection", so I assume this will work just fine. Just want to ask before I buy.

Thanks!!
 
colinski said:
Fascinating thread! Great price for these compared to other temp controllers on the market.

Question: have any of you used this specific one? ebay link

It has no model number, but appears to be from the same manufacturer. Price looks good, and I only need one to do cooling, not cooling and heating. Features "Refrigerating control output delay protection", so I assume this will work just fine. Just want to ask before I buy.

Thanks!!
Click to expand...

Dumb dumb dumb! It's only a 5A capacity...
 
colinski said:
Dumb dumb dumb! It's only a 5A capacity...
Click to expand...

Just because it has a lower contact rating doesn't mean considering one is dumb. I have one of these controlling my keezer and two controlling my HERMS. As long as you only need single stage and you're not switching anything over 5A, these actually have several advantages over the STC-1000. They are cheaper, easier to program, have more programming options, fahrenheit readouts, and SS temp probes.
 
JuanMoore said:
Just because it has a lower contact rating doesn't mean considering one is dumb. I have one of these controlling my keezer and two controlling my HERMS. As long as you only need single stage and you're not switching anything over 5A, these actually have several advantages over the STC-1000. They are cheaper, easier to program, have more programming options, fahrenheit readouts, and SS temp probes.
Click to expand...

That's kind of what I was wondering..since I only need cooling, that one looks fine, as long as the freezer is under 5A. The STC-1000 would still work for cooling though If I didn't hook up to the heating side, correct?
 
colinski said:
That's kind of what I was wondering..since I only need cooling, that one looks fine, as long as the freezer is under 5A. The STC-1000 would still work for cooling though If I didn't hook up to the heating side, correct?
Click to expand...

Yep, it works fine as a single stage controller as well. If there's any doubt about how much the freezer draws, it might be better to just use the STC-1000.
 
Woohoo - my STC-1000 showed up today! Fortunately, I had done most of the work to put my box together already, so it was just a matter of cutting the hole, doing a little soldering (yes, that was far less difficult than it first appeared!) and hooking up a couple connections...

d657e8d9.jpg


And for whoever asked, mine came from Mixtea - it took 14 days exactly from the day I ordered it to the day it arrived.

Also - glad I went with the 6x6x4... I know my difficulty was mostly self inflicted (I chose to use some solid 12-gauge wire I had left over, and that stuff is a little tough to manhandle around at times), but I really don't think I could have pulled this off with a 4x4x4.
 
My LHBS sells some long SS probes with a NPT end that is meant to be secured inside a hole drilled into the bucket. The probe looks high quality, but I'm always worried about infections with this kind of thing (same reason I don't ferment in a bottling bucket even though it'd make things more convenient.)

My LHBS also sells a similar controller to most of these (different color scheme though) that happens to come with the same probe as well, but it's rated to 25A. Way too expensive IMO (over $100), but I suppose it could be worth it if you wanted to put together a monster setup that needs that kind of amperage.
 
Here's mine! I got my controller a few months ago, but just got my freezer this past weekend. Let me tell anyone who is thinking about hooking one of these up but is worried about not being the most handy person - if I can hook it up - ANYONE can!! I just followed the wiring diagrams provided early in this thread. The hardest part for me was cutting out the project box :eek: I plugged it into my freezer, set the parameters and off she went. I also hooked up a hair dryer to the heating side, just to see if it was hooked up right, and it circulated just fine - no electrical fires :ban:

Thanks to ALL the posters on the mammoth thread - espesially the OP! It provided me with the confidence I needed for my first "real" DIY project!

!cid_p_00046.jpg
 
colinski said:
That's kind of what I was wondering..since I only need cooling, that one looks fine, as long as the freezer is under 5A. The STC-1000 would still work for cooling though If I didn't hook up to the heating side, correct?
Click to expand...

And don't forget, you could use an interposing relay with a higher contact rating if this one has the features you want. In fact an interposing relay is always a good idea in a control circuit, it will protect your controller if something goes wrong with your freezer or wiring. Then you just replace the relay, not the controller.
 
Just a quick question. I found a freezer with a bad thermostat (guy hard wired the compressor for an hour until he could get a new freezer, kept his food cold). Just wondering if I can use one of these to wire inline as the thermostat instead of buying a new thermostat and building a controller box.
 
xsists said:
Just a quick question. I found a freezer with a bad thermostat (guy hard wired the compressor for an hour until he could get a new freezer, kept his food cold). Just wondering if I can use one of these to wire inline as the thermostat instead of buying a new thermostat and building a controller box.
Click to expand...

Assuming the guy bypassed the thermostat correctly, building the standard box and plugging the hardwired freezer into will most likely be easier than retrofitting the controller in place of the thermostat. More portable/reusable, too. Most turn the thermo to max anyway, essentially "hardwiring" the compressor to always be on.
 
jerdes said:
And don't forget, you could use an interposing relay with a higher contact rating if this one has the features you want. In fact an interposing relay is always a good idea in a control circuit, it will protect your controller if something goes wrong with your freezer or wiring. Then you just replace the relay, not the controller.
Click to expand...

Can't you just use a fuse? I was planning on putting one in my project box. What's the difference?
 
Blackhawkbrew said:
I also hooked up a hair dryer to the heating side, just to see if it was hooked up right, and it circulated just fine - no electrical fires :ban:
Click to expand...

Be careful with hooking up a hairdryer to these things! They can draw a ton of power. Depending on your particular one, it may have just been that you didn't run it long enough to cause problems.

Granted, my hairdryer is kind of a beast, but it operates at 1875W - at 125V, that's 15 amps!
 
emjay said:
Can't you just use a fuse? I was planning on putting one in my project box. What's the difference?
Click to expand...

A fuse will protect the overall circuit, if the contact rating of the controller is greater than the load you are switching by at least 20% you are pretty safe. However no industrial control is wired in this fashion. In practice an interposing relay is always used to protect the controller in addition to a fuse. The advantage here is that you are only switching a control signal with your controller, not line voltage. This will greatly extend the life of the controller contacts.
 
jerdes said:
A fuse will protect the overall circuit, if the contact rating of the controller is greater than the load you are switching by at least 20% you are pretty safe. However no industrial control is wired in this fashion. In practice an interposing relay is always used to protect the controller in addition to a fuse. The advantage here is that you are only switching a control signal with your controller, not line voltage. This will greatly extend the life of the controller contacts.
Click to expand...

Where are you grabbing your interposing relays from? Everything on line appears to be part of a card frame or larger assembly.

Thanks for the info.. definitely drop one in and save myself from a $25 loss.
 
colinski said:
Where are you grabbing your interposing relays from? Everything on line appears to be part of a card frame or larger assembly.

Thanks for the info.. definitely drop one in and save myself from a $25 loss.
Click to expand...

Any relay used between controller and load is termed an interposing relay. Its the application, not the device. I have the advantage of working in the controls industry and can simply walk out to the shop and snag what I need. I will do a bit of research and report back on what I find for a cheap and easy to obtain relay for this application.
 
Mine came in today, Ordered on 7/20/11, recieved 7/27/11. China to NY state. That is pretty darn quick, if you ask me :)

One thing I am surprised by: how darn SMALL the thing is! I bought a 7x5x3 project box from Radio Shack, and I will mount this in one of the ends that is 5" wide so that I have room for wires. I also picked up a stereo surface mount connector as I had a stereo plug laying around, and will wire in the sensor with that, so that I can disconnect it if needed.

Now I gotta put this and my fermentation chamber together, then get to brewing again!

For what its worth, I got mine from Ebay Member: mixtea who specifically sells 110v controllers. When I get into kegging, I will be purchasing another from said seller :)
 
Grrrrrrrrr. Ordered the 220V model. Just re-ordered the 110V. Well at least I have a model to use to fab into the hobby box. and I have a spare temp sensor!
 
I just purchased the ebay temp controller. I want to hard wire this unit to my fridge (nucool 2.8). I have read over the posts here but I can't find a clear solution for this. I don't want to create an external box that the fridge plugs into. The nucool 2.8 does not have a compressor, it is thermoelectric.

The picture below is of the electronics on the back of the unit. Anyone know how I could do this? I want the fridge to turn on and off to keep the correct temperature. Forgive me if my ignorance with electronics and wiring has caused me to overlook how to do this.

Thank you for your help!

nc1.jpg
 
Since I've seen a bunch of people asking, I did a little bit of research into how big the hole for the temp controller ought to be cut. Since it was near impossible to search this thread to find the answer, please excuse my bit of SEO at the bottom.

According to this page, the controller's faceplate is 75mm(wide) x 34.5mm(tall), and the body of the temperature controller is 71mm(wide) x 29mm(tall) x 85mm(deep).

My best conversion of those measurements into inches is somewhat imprecise. The faceplate is just a bit bigger than 2 15/16"(wide) by 1 5/16"(tall). The body of the temperature controller is just a bit smaller than 2 13/16"(wide) by 1 3/16"(tall). Going between these numbers give us an optimal "blind" cut of 2 7/8"(wide) by 1 1/4"(tall). Ideally you'd trace the box, but in terms of making a cut that's safe and pretty much guaranteed to work (assuming the measurements on the site are correct) this size hole should work. So long as you're using the boxes discussed in this thread, the depth shouldn't be much of an issue, but it's roughly 3 3/8".

So ya, assuming the website is correct, that's the best bet you have to cut the hole before you have the temperature controller in hand.

As far as cutting the hole, my plan is to use my dremel along with this attachment and an impromptu wood jig to cut the hole. I'll report back to let you all know how it goes.

SEO: The size of the temperature controller, the dimensions of the temperature controller, the hole for the temperature controller should be, cut the hole, the size of the hole... Anyone have other ideas?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
physast said:
I just purchased the ebay temp controller. I want to hard wire this unit to my fridge (nucool 2.8). I have read over the posts here but I can't find a clear solution for this. I don't want to create an external box that the fridge plugs into. The nucool 2.8 does not have a compressor, it is thermoelectric.

The picture below is of the electronics on the back of the unit. Anyone know how I could do this? I want the fridge to turn on and off to keep the correct temperature. Forgive me if my ignorance with electronics and wiring has caused me to overlook how to do this.

Thank you for your help!

nc1.jpg
Click to expand...

I can't seem to upload my diagram file, but this is what I was thinking.

From chrod connected to the wall socket:

- Hot goes to pins 1, and 7 (cooling only)
- neutural goes to pin 2 and is tied to ground to the original ground of the fridge (basically nothing changed except now linked to pin 2)
- pin 8 out to the fridge + terminal (power to fridge)

Does this sound right? Assuming that the fridge will stay on all the time. Looking at the picture I could tie a resistor to the NTC of the fridge to trick it to stay on. What ohm resistor should be used?

Thank you for your help.
 
physast said:
I can't seem to upload my diagram file, but this is what I was thinking.

From chrod connected to the wall socket:

- Hot goes to pins 1, and 7 (cooling only)
- neutural goes to pin 2 and is tied to ground to the original ground of the fridge (basically nothing changed except now linked to pin 2)
- pin 8 out to the fridge + terminal (power to fridge)

Does this sound right? Assuming that the fridge will stay on all the time. Looking at the picture I could tie a resistor to the NTC of the fridge to trick it to stay on. What ohm resistor should be used?

Thank you for your help.
Click to expand...

My recommendation is to wire up the standard box, especially if you do not already have the knowledge to perform a retrofit. It is much more reusable and flexible that way. There seems to be a trend that the only people wanting to perform a retrofit are those that don't know how. Those that do know how do not see any benefit, and build the standard box.

Things to consider-
Virtually all peltier based (thermoelectric) coolers ultimately operate on DC power. You will need to check the operating voltage at the point you are attempting to tie into, as it may be DC. You will need a multi-meter for this, as well as for checking what value of resistor will force the unit to be "always on". One can be had for less than $10.

Peltier devices (single stage ones at least) are limited to ~40F below ambient. Using this controller to set a lower temperature will not overcome that limit.

Peltier devices have very low efficiency. I would guess about 1/4 (or less) of the input power. This could be an issue for keeping up with the heat output of the beer/wort if used as a fermentation chiller. It depends highly on ambient temps.

You previously mentioned connecting the "neutral" wire to the "ground" wire of the cooler. Unless you meant the neutral of the fridge as well, this is not correct, and is potentially dangerous. It may work, but not on a GFCI portected outlet.
 
cwi said:
My recommendation is to wire up the standard box, especially if you do not already have the knowledge to perform a retrofit. It is much more reusable and flexible that way.
Peltier devices have very low efficiency. I would guess about 1/4 (or less) of the input power. This could be an issue for keeping up with the heat output of the beer/wort if used as a fermentation chiller. It depends highly on ambient temps.
Click to expand...

cwi, thank you for responding. I realize the benefit of having a reusable box design. My main reasoning for wanting to not use that particular design is:

1. It would just look cool having it mounted flush with the fridge.
2. I don't plan on using it for any other fridge (I know this could change)

The retro fitting should work the same as the box I would think. I am basically wanting to tie in to the main power from the power chord before it even reaches the electronics of the fridge, before any DC conversion happens.

Even if I use the box I suspect I would need to trick the fridge to be always on.

This is my first fermentation fridge and from the other reviews of this fridge on HBT it seems to work.

EDIT: If the retro fit does not work though I will end up with the box design.
 
physast said:
I realize the benefit of having a reusable box design. My main reasoning for wanting to not use that particular design is:

1. It would just look cool having it mounted flush with the fridge.
2. I don't plan on using it for any other fridge (I know this could change)
Click to expand...
1.-form over function
2.-planned obsolescence

Are in marketing by chance?

physast said:
This is my first fermentation fridge and from the other reviews of this fridge on HBT it seems to work.
Click to expand...

I read threads on thermo-electric coolers, and recall people had mixed results. As I said before- It depends highly on ambient temps. These will not work in a garage in the south, whereas a compressor based fridge/freezer will. Additionally, I think many of those who thought theirs were meeting ferm temps were only monitoring the ambient air, and not the beer which reaches ~10F above ambient at times.

This cooler will have a hard time dropping the temp of a full carboy, so the wort will need to be at the correct temp before putting it inside it.
 
cwi said:
1.-form over function
2.-planned obsolescence

Are in marketing by chance?

I read threads on thermo-electric coolers, and recall people had mixed results. As I said before- It depends highly on ambient temps. These will not work in a garage in the south, whereas a compressor based fridge/freezer will. Additionally, I think many of those who thought theirs were meeting ferm temps were only monitoring the ambient air, and not the beer which reaches ~10F above ambient at times.

This cooler will have a hard time dropping the temp of a full carboy, so the wort will need to be at the correct temp before putting it inside it.
Click to expand...


lol! No actually I am in Astrophysics. Trust me I know that practically speaking the box design is the best way to go. I think the thermoelectric is good enough for the fermentation though. The ambient temp in the fridge is 38F right now at the lowest setting in my living room with the room temp at 77F.

Again if the retro fitting does not work I will just do the box.
 
thanks for the link.. I found one for 16.99 with free shipping but it makes no mention of the 110V version, just says 220 on everything. Some of the other sellers say they'll ship the one for your country, but not this one. I think I'll go with the link you posted.
 
Alrighty,

I seem to have everything wired up and working for the moment, but some strange behavior (the display would read EE and the alarm would be going off) when I was still tinkering with everything has me a bit worried about the sensor. I decided to wire up the probe with a 1/8" mono jack like some people were talking about earlier. The jack I got from radioshack had three prongs/tabs (though I am sure the package said it was mono) in which case it must have been this jack:

Sku-005585.jpg


If you're looking at it with the "third" prong/tab in the middle, I soldered the right and left prongs/tabs. From what I could tell of the construction, those connected to the inside surface of the jack and the large "tension" contact that hits the end of the 1/8" plug. I assume these were the correct tabs to solder.

The plug I got from radioshack had two solder terminals (one was a prong/tab and the other was midway down what looked like a cross section of a tube) and it looked like this:

pRS1C-2266812w345.jpg


From what I can tell, I soldered everything properly. When soldering, I fed the wire through the hole in each terminal and bent it back on itself (similar to the way you'd wire up an outlet, hooking through the terminals) and then covered each terminal in a bit of solder. Was I wrong to double the wire back, and could that be causing the strange behavior I experienced? I don't often solder, and had never soldered these sorts of terminals before.

Thanks for any help you guys are able to provide.

EDIT: To reiterate, it's currently working just fine (for the past 20 minutes or so) and appears to be reading temperatures accurately.

EDIT2: A couple hours in and it's running fine. I think I may be in the clear, but if anyone has ideas on things to check, that'd be awesome.
 
bruin_ale said:
thanks for the link.. I found one for 16.99 with free shipping but it makes no mention of the 110V version, just says 220 on everything. Some of the other sellers say they'll ship the one for your country, but not this one. I think I'll go with the link you posted.
Click to expand...

That is the one I ordered ($16.99). I can all but guarantee it will be the 220V version.
 
asthepenguinflies said:
Alrighty,

I seem to have everything wired up and working for the moment, but some strange behavior when I was still tinkering with everything has me a bit worried about the sensor.

Was I wrong to double the wire back, and could that be causing the strange behavior I experienced?
EDIT: To reiterate, it's currently working just fine (for the past 20 minutes or so) and appears to be reading temperatures accurately.

EDIT2: A couple hours in and it's running fine. I think I may be in the clear, but if anyone has ideas on things to check, that'd be awesome.
Click to expand...
If you describe the strange behavior in more detail than just "strange behavior", you might get some advice.
Installing the jack involves more than just soldering. Taking a picture of your completed work, instead of posting stock photos, is sufficient, and easier than documenting your install process in detail.
 
cwi said:
If you describe the strange behavior in more detail than just "strange behavior", you might get some advice.
Installing the jack involves more than just soldering. Taking a picture of your completed work, instead of posting stock photos, is sufficient, and easier than documenting your install process in detail.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I wrote a couple versions of that post because the first one didn't post for some reason. Apparently, I left out the important bit the second time around. I've updated the original post, but basically: The display would read EE and the alarm would go off. From what I can tell, that's the error for the sensor shorting. However, it's reading temps fine and giving me no errors right now. So ya.

I'll take some pictures this evening when I can.
 

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