Anyone try BRY-97 yet

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Finally broke out my BRY-97 this past weekend. I kept a close eye on takeoff time since everyone was saying that this yeast was a bit slower.

OG was 1.055 and I pitched ~ 70-72 F. Ambient temps in house brought the temp down to 66-68 F, where its been fermenting steadily for 4 days. I pitched late Saturday afternoon and had blowoff by Sunday morning, so no delays here. My pitching practice is to use pure oxygen ~45 seconds and rehydrate the yeast. I did use a little more yeast than most people though. I probably pitched 16-17 g into 5 gallons. Did anyone else notice the recommended pitching rate on the back? It says 1 g / L.
 
Does anyone know what Nottingham or Windsor say on the back? Do they have the same pitching rate?
 
Finally broke out my BRY-97 this past weekend. I kept a close eye on takeoff time since everyone was saying that this yeast was a bit slower.

OG was 1.055 and I pitched ~ 70-72 F. Ambient temps in house brought the temp down to 66-68 F, where its been fermenting steadily for 4 days. I pitched late Saturday afternoon and had blowoff by Sunday morning, so no delays here. My pitching practice is to use pure oxygen ~45 seconds and rehydrate the yeast. I did use a little more yeast than most people though. I probably pitched 16-17 g into 5 gallons. Did anyone else notice the recommended pitching rate on the back? It says 1 g / L.

I pitched 11g into 10 gallons of wort (oxygenated with pure o2)...took around 18 hours to really get going, visible fermentation started @ around 12 hours
 
Pitching rate for Nottingham and Windsor is 100 gms active dried yeast for 100 litres wort to achieve 7-15 million cells per hectolitre.

Safale US-05 suggests 50/g/hl to 80 g/hl

Lallemand does not recommend any form of aeration.

Fermentis does suggest aeration.
 
Just the opposite.
Takes forever to drop out of solution.
Pretty much have to cold crash it for over a weelk.
Flavor is good but sweet.
 
I used this last week for the first time. Mainly because it was a clean west coast yeast, I was doing a DIPA, and was too lazy to make a starter of some 1056.

Pitched 2 hydrated packs into 1.5 cups of water I boiled, and tossed it in some 1.075 wort.

Took almost 24 hours to show signs of fermentation, maybe a little less, but close to it. Slow starter IMO.

It's still going a week later, but I've kept the temps at 62-64*, and the krausen hasn't dropped, but appears to be doing so this morning. Haven't checked the gravity yet, as it's been only a week. Appears to be pretty cloudy still, but I also ran out of irish moss and planned to use gelatin to clear it after it's done.

Will comment back on any taste from the yeast, and clarity in the next coming days. This appear to be a yeast from reading and comments here that like it a bit warmer.
 
Saw this yeast for the first time at my LHBS while picking up ingredients for a simple extract Pale Ale and decided to give it a try. Glad I read this thread, otherwise I'd have worried about no activity after 16 hours. Rehydrated it, waited 15 minutes, but no foaming. Pitched it anyway @5pm yesterday. It is noticeably darker (brownish) than other dry yeasts. Will update when I see airlock activity.
 
I used this yeast for the first time this past weekend in a Double IPA 1.086 OG. Slow starter... I did notice that it clumped a bit. I gave the frementer a small swirl. After about 20 hours I could see the yeast pushing upward. Krausen formed overnight. I used the blowoff not knowing the properties of the yeast. Glad I did. It ***** slapped the simple sugar. Its very aggressive. I love the way its working currently. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQpqVaoswpw&feature=youtu.be
 
Never seen or heard of it. Where did you find it?

I'm ready to try Nottingham again after steering clear of it before they started repackaging. I do like US-05, but without cold crashing it takes a long time to compact. Maybe this new Danstar yeast is the ticket.

Bob

I have been using Nottingham for 10 years and never have had a problem.

I normall do not rehydrate.

I brew mostly in teh Spring or Fall when the Temps are around 70 F and I cast the yeast right on top of my arriated wort at about 80 F and let it cool down.

Usually it is bubbling away after 12 hours.

Example:

  • Cool wort to around 80 F. (Usually in the evening to ambent temp is in the 60s)
  • Wort cools and yeast goes to work.
  • By the time the temp is around 70 F, mid-day, it is going... and a day or so later the significant fermentation is complete.

Temp on top of the fermenter are usually 70-72 F and I do not check the internal temp.

I do 5 and 10 gallon batches this way and have great luck with the yeast.

I also keep a little around in case something has not started the way I expected,,, and cast it at 24 hours if there is no activity...

DPB
 
One thought about the hop muting. A lot of people on this thread have reported significant blow off with this yeast. I am wondering if some of the hop oils and other solid hop material is being pushed out with the blow off? It might be worthwhile to try this yeast on the same recipe and 2 different fermenter sizes ... One that is small enough to promote blowoff, and one that was larger and would keep the entire fermentation, krausen and all, inside the vessel.
 
One thought about the hop muting. A lot of people on this thread have reported significant blow off with this yeast. I am wondering if some of the hop oils and other solid hop material is being pushed out with the blow off? It might be worthwhile to try this yeast on the same recipe and 2 different fermenter sizes ... One that is small enough to promote blowoff, and one that was larger and would keep the entire fermentation, krausen and all, inside the vessel.

I actually didn't have any blow out it just krept up the tube. My biggest concern was lag time. This clumpy yeast took its time. Once it was ready... BOOM!
 
zip100473 said:
I actually didn't have any blow out it just krept up the tube. My biggest concern was lag time. This clumpy yeast took its time. Once it was ready... BOOM!

But did you have hop muting issues as well?
 
But did you have hop muting issues as well?


Might clumped a bit, but wasn't anything super abnormal. Took a while to get going, but once it did, it chugged and chugged and then took it's time to drop the krausen.

It attenuated really well. A bit lower than US05. It has a very dry clean profile, and I used alot of whole cone hops in my boil.

Honestly, if I found lower hop aroma/flavor, it was me looking for it. I'd say that it was more rounded and softer, but could have been my hop schedule, and hops.

It did floc out tight though.. Which I'm thinking it's pulling some stuff out and down with it. This yeast might be a beast to clean up real well, IMO.
 
I'm giving this a try in my cream ale today. But I can't find it in beersmith2. Is there a yeast pack update somewhere that has this?


If there is, I haven't found it.

To be honest, in BS2, I'll just put US05 as the yeast. These are extremely similar, with the BRY97 being IMO, a faster working yeast, that is... once you get it going. It's got atleast 18-24 hour lag time, even with a rehydrate. But once it goes, it goes, and it floccs out really, really well. Very clean yeast, almost no character to it.

I'm using it again in a Belma Galaxy APA. It's kickin' ass right now, after taking close to a day to get going.
 
If there is, I haven't found it.

To be honest, in BS2, I'll just put US05 as the yeast. These are extremely similar, with the BRY97 being IMO, a faster working yeast, that is... once you get it going. It's got atleast 18-24 hour lag time, even with a rehydrate. But once it goes, it goes, and it floccs out really, really well. Very clean yeast, almost no character to it.

I'm using it again in a Belma Galaxy APA. It's kickin' ass right now, after taking close to a day to get going.

Yeah, I just put it down as notty....
 
I'm giving this a try in my cream ale today. But I can't find it in beersmith2. Is there a yeast pack update somewhere that has this?

Just add it into Beersmith2.. You can add ingredients and their properties.

Bob
 
I'm not likely to use this again. The long lag times and that I needed to be at 64 for fermentation to kick off is unsettling when S05 usually takes off in 12 hours @ 60 for me. I'm drinking an IPA that is quite tasty, but it isn't as clear or dry as I'd expect (and prefer) fermenting it with S05 or pacman.
 
Pitched last night into a 10 gallon batch of amber split with 05 and 97.

Activity and small krausen from 05 about 12 hours later. Nothing yet from 97.

Fermenting at 64*F, and treated both the same (rehydrated in 110g of 88*F water for 30 minutes).

Will post attenuation, floccuation, and tasting notes later.

Finally kegged tonight.

Attenuation was the same.

Flocculation was much better with US-05.

BRY-97 had a yeasty aroma I did not like. I'll reserve other flavor/aroma comments until it is chilled and carbed.
 
I used this yeast this week end too for the first time. 1.056 wort pitched at 62f and took 24 hours to take off as I ramped up temp to 68.
For me I do not like this long lag time, I think I will stay with WLP001 for my APA/IPA
 
My Belma/Galaxy IPA did have the lag, but finished in roughly a week at 67*.

I brewed it on a Friday evening, and did a Citra Pale on Sunday, they both finished about the same time, with the Citra Pale being US 05 yeast in it, and it fermenting cooler at 64/65*.

I think it'll stick with the US05, but will hold my judgement until I get the IPA kegged one day this week.
 
I also had a long lag time with my starter, and the krausen still wasn't gone after 72 hours, so I couldn't decant - oh well. Since it is dry yeast, normally won't need starters, but I only had the one pack.

I noticed a bready citrusy smell and taste from the bit I left behind in the starter vessel. Someone else in this thread mentioned they got a pineapple smell. Currently frementing an IIPA at 1.076.

It may be related to Chico, but more like a 2nd cousin than a brother.
 
After going back and reviewing all my notes, I think the only problem with this yeast is the cell count per pack.

My initial reviews were used on small batches (full pack used)and then I used slurry for the first full batch. Those batches all took off and finished quickly with high attenuation and good flocculation.

The side by side was using 1 pack each so I under pitched the Bry-97 and then had the lag time and acetaldehyde in the tasting notes. This makes sense as I had a less optimal fermentation.

When using this again, I'll adjust my starting cell count about 2 fold and I'm sure it'll act much differently.

Keep commenting with your own results.

Bull
 
My experience: I let the beer cool down to much (below 60 not sure exactly how low). Warmed to 62F. Waited 48 hours with no sign of fermentation. Noticed lots of yeast was sticking to the side of the carboy. Warmed to 64F and shook the carboy to activate yeast. Had a 1" thick krausen 2-3 hours later. Fermenting nicely now at 64F.

For me it was $1 more than US-05. I am cheap so it needs to have a significant value add to justify the extra cost. Finicky at 60-62F is a negative.
 
larrybrewer said:
Is BRY-97 20 billion cells per gram? An 11g pack should have 220B cells, right?

The specs on the Danstar site say "Living yeast cells ≥ 5 x 109 per gram of dry yeast" I believe by "5x109" they mean 5x10^9 or > 5 billion cells per gram.

Fermentis spec sheet says this about US-05: "Viable cells at packaging: >6x10^9 /gramme"

So according to the specs from both manufacturers US-05 has about 20% more yeast cells per gram.
 
Hrmm... with that info to be honest, US05 is probably a better choice. BRY-97 is a nice clean yeast, and finishes really well, floccs nicely, and I think the two beers I've made ( IPA's ) with it, turned out well.

Can't remember the price on them.. but for less cells, and more lag time... ehhh. However, for those with it, I had a 1.075 IPA, I brewed on a Friday evening, and a 1.058 APA I brewed on Sunday morning/afternoon, and both were done around Sat/Sun the following weekend at the same time.
 
What's the concern about lag time? Anything other than the potential for undesirable microbes to get a head start? The lag doesn't bother me at all.
 
What's the concern about lag time? Anything other than the potential for undesirable microbes to get a head start? The lag doesn't bother me at all.

I know, I've never understood folks fear of that. Just because we don't see a krausen forming yet, or anything else, doesn't mean the yeast isn't doing something as soon as it wakes up in the presence of 5 gallons of sugar.....
 
I'm looking for a good clean yeast for my lower grav beers, like my Kentucky Common. As much as I love US-05 as my goto yeast, I'm really tired of that almost peach like flavor that I pick up when I use it for session type beers that don't have any roasty or highly caramally dark malts to cover it up. I can't seem to escape it, even fermenting o5 at the coolest temps I can get it to.

I have 5 gallons of my Kentucky Common that I'm getting no pleasure out of drinking this time, because it's overwhelmingly peachy.

That's why I'm interested in this yeast. My cream ale's going to get cold crashed and go into a keg over the weekend. I may even burst carb it just to have something else to drink over the holidays besides the Kentucky Common.
 
Revvy said:
I'm looking for a good clean yeast for my lower grav beers, like my Kentucky Common. As much as I love US-05 as my goto yeast, I'm really tired of that almost peach like flavor that I pick up when I use it for session type beers that don't have any roasty or highly caramally dark malts to cover it up. I can't seem to escape it, even fermenting o5 at the coolest temps I can get it to.

I have 5 gallons of my Kentucky Common that I'm getting no pleasure out of drinking this time, because it's overwhelmingly peachy.

That's why I'm interested in this yeast. My cream ale's going to get cold crashed and go into a keg over the weekend. I may even burst carb it just to have something else to drink over the holidays besides the Kentucky Common.

Not to jack this thread and turn it into a us05 discussion, but I have seen posts on the forums of others getting fruity flavors when using us05 at lower temps. I usually ferment with it in the 65-68f range. I get a light fruity flavor on my lighter beers that usually disappears after a couple of weeks in my keezer lagering at 45 f or so.
 
Not to jack this thread and turn it into a us05 discussion, but I have seen posts on the forums of others getting fruity flavors when using us05 at lower temps. I usually ferment with it in the 65-68f range. I get a light fruity flavor on my lighter beers that usually disappears after a couple of weeks in my keezer lagering at 45 f or so.

Yea, that peachy stone fruit flavor definitely comes up once you get below 65F with US-05 for me. It likes to be a little warmer.
 
What's the concern about lag time? Anything other than the potential for undesirable microbes to get a head start? The lag doesn't bother me at all.

Long lag time can be an indicator of under pitching. Under pitching can lead to off flavors.

Lots of people, including myself, use dry yeast because the cell counts are high enough to not require a yeast starter.

My concern is if the BRY-97 is essentially the same yeast as US-05 (or only has minor differences) but comes is a smaller package (11g for BRY-97 vs. 11.5g for US-05) and has a lower cell count (5B cells/gram vs. 6B cells/gram) why should I buy it? Especially when it is more expensive ($4.50/pack vs. $3.29/pack at northernbrewer.com).

BRY-97 = 55B yeast cells for $4.50
US-05 = 69B yeast cells for $3.29 (25% more yeast cells for 27% less $)
 
I have brewed 2 batches with BRY-97 now and have a 3rd in the fermenter. The first 2 I did not rehydrate and they kicked off in around 24 hours, the last batch I rehydrated per directions and it took 48 hours. I got nervous and threw another package on top at 36 hours when I didn't see anything happening. I get a heavier yeast taste and it takes a long time for the beer to clear in the keg. I have one package left and after that I'm going back to US-04/05 which are my house yeasts. US-05 is cleaner; flocs better and is cheaper...easy decision.
 
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