Pneumatic Capper

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ol' rummie

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
153
Reaction score
3
Just finished my pneumatic capper, waiting for compresser to try it out.
Anyone have any ideas on PSI settings. I put in a flow control to regulate the speed.
Hope I don't break too many bottles while tweaking the pressure and flow rates.
p1030131v.jpg

p1030130m.jpg
 
i would start low say 20 psi and go up from there.Once you start capping you will find out where you need to be.Great job!!:mug:
 
i say move up from 4psi in 1 psi increments. wear GLOVES and EYE PROTECTION!

if it were me, i'd want the actuator switch on a foot petal so i could use both hands to move/manage bottles and caps. just something to think about for v1.1, you could always just splice a quick connect jack into the existing button, then you'd have the best of both worlds.

gotta say, awesome freaking build... and if you don't post videos we WILL find you and make you drink Natty Ice as punishment.
 
Whoa, that takes some balls my friend! Way to
Take an idea and run with it.

I wonder, is this how breweries with automated bottling lines cap their bottles
 
If it doesn't work, you can always turn it into a mini log splitter.

One suggestion, a rubber pad on top of that uber thick steel base.
 
Since you did not say the size of your cylinder I cannot suggest a pressure so you get to do the math... In my tests it has taken about 160-165 pounds of force at the peak and then drops to about 110-120 pounds for final closure. Keep an eye on the amount of flex in your cylinder mount. If it flexes too much you might not get pretty, symetrical crimps. It should crimp OK, but they might not be totally symetrical.
 
Just finished my pneumatic capper, waiting for compresser to try it out.
Anyone have any ideas on PSI settings.
My 2-1/2" and 3" bore size cappers operate with 60-80 psi and limited travel stroke.

Hope I don't break too many bottles while tweaking the pressure and flow rates.
Install a safety shield.
I have never broken a bottle, can happen.
The bottles are very strong, as long your capper head comes straight down you should not have any problems.


Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
I second the safety shield and goggles!!!! Looks like a cool invention. I agree that a foot pedel is the way to go, and double +1 to the 100 psi vid(with proper safety measures of course!)
 
My 2-1/2" and 3" bore size cappers operate with 60-80 psi and limited travel stroke.

It's a good thing you have your stroke limited. A 3" cylinder at 80psi is about 565 pounds of force. With that power I bet you could find a weak bottle once in a while. Do you have a flow control on it or is it coming down ka-pow?

How cool would it be to have something in your brew room that goes ka-chunk...capped, ka-chunk...capped.
 
A 3" cylinder at 80psi is about 565 pounds of force. With that power I bet you could find a weak bottle once in a while.
I agree;)
Do you have a flow control on it or is it coming down ka-pow?

Flow control, slow motion.
How cool would it be to have something in your brew room that goes ka-chunk...capped, ka-chunk...capped.
Its not too hard to do.
I used to have a few problems with the crown feeder (caps) in the old days of brewing.
All my beers are in kegs now, very few end up in bottles.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
Wicked awesome, where did you source the pneumatic cylinder?

I got the cylinder for nothing from work, it's 1 1/2" bore.
I have nothing so far to limit the stroke, I'll wait to see if a limiter is needed.

I don't know why I didn't think of a foot pedal, but I like it!

ClaudiusB, love those brewery pics, are you licensed?
 
Cool. I am working on a pneumatic capper as well. I have a 2" bore spring-return cyl with a 5/8-18 thread on the rod end, perfect for mounting the bell from my wing capper. I also have a foot pedal (from spare parts drawer at work). I just need to weld up the frame.

Keep us posted on how yours works out. My guess is 100psi won't break any bottles. 100psi x (1.5/2)^2 x pi = 177 lbs. My bench capper has a lever arm that multiplies force by 8 (10"/1.25"). So with 22 lbs of force on my lever I get 177lbs capping force. I would say I routinely exceed that.

Cheers.
 
I'd suggest using some of those fancy brushed metal bottles for the dial-in procedure, once you get it close then switch to glass. ;)
 
That and put a rubber ring or something to center the bottles so you hit them correctly everytime.
 
I like this rather a lot. It has got me thinking about either a electric motor actuator or a foot pedal driven capper. I won't have air at my bottling station. It'll be too far from the shop and what with the refrigerated and heated glycol, water, and power lines I'm likely to be in a tight squeeze for feed through lines no room for even a little air line.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top