connecting CCF wort chiller to kettle outflow

I'm looking at building a CCF wort chiller pretty soon. I plan on using gravity to flow the hot wort through the system and into the fermenter. My question is, what kind of tubing do I use to connect the 1/2" weldess ball valve on my brewing kettle to the copper inflow pipe on the wort chiller? Given that the wort will be at or darn near boiling temp coming out of the valve I know standard vinyl tubing won't cut it.

Thanks for the help,

Jeff

First off, I'd highly recommend using a pump. For about a year (7 or 8 brews) I used gravity, much to my chagrin. It's a total pain in the ass, compared to using a pump. Things get caught in the CFC. You have to lift the full kettle up HIGH above the CFC or set it up there to begin with before your boil.

That said, if you must go without a pump I'd recommend this. If you end up using a pump, I'd recommend this.

I used to use a 3/8 compression fitting and just hooked it right to my ballvalve. But now I have a pump and QD's

I gravity feed mine.

BrewVint 25' Counterflow Chiller from AHS
my boil kettle has a
1/2NPT to 3/8 Barbed nipple
connected by
3' Silicone Hose 3/8
and secured at both ends with
Kwiklamp Hose Clamp (Small)
and a 3foot discharge hose to my fermenter, with a probe thermometer stick through the wall of the hose.

I stand my turky fryer on a couple of bricks so that my ball valve is at least 18 inches taller than my fermenter, and set my CFC in that range.

I had no cloging issues (because of a braided hose on the floor of my kettle), but do wish that it had a better flow. I only run my water about 20% open because the wort flow is not fast enough to need more water. it took 15min to chill 10.5 galons.

I do plan to add a pump at some point, but i don't have the money for it at this time.

Another benefit to using a pump is that you can recirculate the wort through your counterflow chiller and back to your kettle. I guess the idea is that in this way you're getting the whole wort down to cooler temp as quickly as possible.

In another thread, an advocate of immersion chillers mentioned that immersion chillers were better at getting the whole wort down to cooler temps as soon as possible, while counterflow chillers would leave part of the wort hot for some time longer (that portion left in the pot while the rest was making its way through the CFC). IIRC BobbyM and some others have recommended recirculating in that way.

Personally, I'd made about 10 brews with my counterflow without recirculating, and had stellar results when compared to chilling with an ice bath. So whatever...

+1 on the Pump.

I have some of the expensive silicone tubing, but I've never used it. Brewmasters Warehouse has a good price on this. It is the right way. You MUST use hose clamps where this tubing connects to barbs.

I do use nylon (I think) tubing from Lowes. The normal stuff won't cut it, but they have precut 10' sections of reinforced tubing that does fine with boiling water. You'll know it is the right stuff by the white reinforcement mesh that is molded into the thick walls of this tubing. I use 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) stuff. Pretty cheap. And it takes the minor suction from my pump just fine.

If you decide you want to not connect your CFC directly to your kettle use 1/2" ID Silicone tubing. Mc Master-Carr and most Homebrew Stores have it. You would also need a 1/2" FNPT to Hose Barb fitting to connect it to your valve. I have no idea what type of connector you have on your CFC but you will need a fitting for that also.

I just put barbed fittings on each end and then used silicone marine tubing rated for hot liquids. I use have been using gravity for about a year now and have no problems with it.

i just purchased thermoplastic 3/8" id which will be connected to some QDs. Is a barb and a clamp the proper way to connect them or is a compression fitting necessary? thanks.