Anyone have this mini-lathe??

Looking at getting this lathe. Mostly due to having a 20% off coupon for HF. Puts the cost to just under $400 (will get it from the local HF, no shipping or sales tax :rockin. Really need to know if this is a good lathe or a total steaming pile of rhino dung.

Looking at getting it this week IF it's worth getting. Otherwise, I'll continue to search for a lathe, that will do what I want (turning small items) at a decent/reasonable rate.

Looks like a metal lathe? What are you planning on cutting?

304 stainless and maybe some other annealed stainless allows is the hardest things to go into it. Want to try using it to ream fittings as well as put holes in TC caps. I have located a 4 jaw chuck for it for not too much money (on Amazon, still looking for other sources).

With the high speed range, I'm wondering if I could also do some wood turning on it. Small things like tap handles. :rockin:

I would look it up here
http://hfreviews.com/

I feel like there was another review website for HF tools but can't find it off hand.

I have turned literally thousands of delrin and aluminum motorcycle and bike pegs on one. Great little lathe for the money. It crapped out after about a year but I used that thing for 8 hours a day 2 weekends a month.

I have the hf 7x12 which is essentially the same lathe as the 7x10 just a longer bed. I do all sorts of steel work on it, stainless, whatever. Two huge drawbacks is it has no weight to it and is not that rigid, so light cuts are key to smooth results. And it uses 5/16 tool bits, the selection for quality indexable bits is HORRIBLE.

If I were to do it again I would save up and get an 8 or 9 inch lathe. More of a bit selection (they use 3/8 ) and the lathe itself weighs more.

MyNameIsPaul said:

I have turned literally thousands of delrin and aluminum motorcycle and bike pegs on one. Great little lathe for the money. It crapped out after about a year but I used that thing for 8 hours a day 2 weekends a month.

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It lasted under 400 hours?

I'm looking to ream out stainless fittings that are the bases for corny posts (304 stainless I believe) that already have holes in them, I just need to make some larger. Also looking to make centered holes in round things (brass, stainless, aluminum, etc.) that I can then tap or thread (internal or external). I have a set of taps and dies that I can use for this. I would like to be able to put a centered hole into the 20mm dummy round I have. That way I could tap it for use as a faucet handle.

I read the reviews on the HF site, as well as the linked reviews site posted by The_Dog_42. Only two on the site from The_Dog_42, back in 2009. From mini-lathe.com it sounds like it could be a decent enough mill. I'll have to check it out later today. I like the price of $400, compared with over $700 for a Grizzly mini-lathe (after shipping and such).

I have a line on another lathe, a Clarke BT1028 from another source (off a CL ad). Problem there is it's more money (listed at $600, before finding out the tool post is missing). So, I'd need to get a tool post/holder, as well as the MT2 drill chuck (need the chuck for either one). Since the Clarke is a 7x12 lathe, I'm seriously thinking about getting that one. IF they'll drop the rate to something closer to the HF lathe, and offset the amount I'll need to spend to get the tool holder. Since the HF 7x12 would only run $560 (with the coupon), and it has the tool holder, I'd want the other guys to reduce theirs to at least $500 (if not lower). If not, then I'll just get the HF lathe.

Unless someone has some really bad experiences with this model lathe (ones currently being sold, not previous versions) that is.

Gixxer said:

I have the hf 7x12 which is essentially the same lathe as the 7x10 just a longer bed. I do all sorts of steel work on it, stainless, whatever. Two huge drawbacks is it has no weight to it and is not that rigid, so light cuts are key to smooth results. And it uses 5/16 tool bits, the selection for quality indexable bits is HORRIBLE.

If I were to do it again I would save up and get an 8 or 9 inch lathe. More of a bit selection (they use 3/8 ) and the lathe itself weighs more.

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Don't have the capital to get a larger lathe. Nor do I have the space, or someone to help me get it into the basement (where I'm setting up my workshop).

I wonder if I could just get another/different tool post/holder that accepts the 3/8" tool size. Guess that's something I'll need to check at the store...

My experiences are not bad but as long as your wants and needs are within the limitations of the lathe then you will be happy. I never really knew how big of a project I would have come up and when it did I was really wanting bigger.

The prob with using 3/8 bits on that lathe is the cutting edge sits too tall compared to the centerline of the part you are working on. I had to use my surface grinder on the tool bit to get the cutting edge at the right height.

Just looked at Grizzly's site... They have a set of 1/4" tools, so those would work. Going to see if it's possible to get the holders that you can use with the replaceable tips in either 1/4" or 5/16". Or see if anyone knows if you can change the post over to one that accepts 3/8" tools. That would probably be the best thing.

I'm also planning on initially clamping the lathe to a workbench. Once I get another bench/stand, I'll secure it to that with bolts.

Well, not cheap but they do offer a set with the inserts in 5/16"...
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Glanze-Mini-Turning-Tool-Set-5-16-/H5680

Check out littlemachineshop dot com, wholesale tool has some stuff, and on the high end with American made indexable tooling is carbide depot. All of the above carry indexable tool bits.

Unholy HELL!! Almost double the cost for their lower cost lathe (at littlemachineshop)... Being between jobs right now, I need to not spend more for something that I can spend less to get the job done.

I could see getting a Grizzly lathe later, if the HF dies after a year (or when it does, and I'm not between contracts again).

Golddiggie said:

Unholy HELL!! Almost double the cost for their lower cost lathe (at littlemachineshop)... Being between jobs right now, I need to not spend more for something that I can spend less to get the job done.

I could see getting a Grizzly lathe later, if the HF dies after a year (or when it does, and I'm not between contracts again).

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Reading the reviews, buyer seem rather supportive of ity for the hobbyist. Biggest complaint, and most common, is the plastic gearing.

GilaMinumBeer said:

Reading the reviews, buyer seem rather supportive of ity for the hobbyist. Biggest complaint, and most common, is the plastic gearing.

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From what I've read, I think the plastic gears are for cutting threads. Not sure how much of that I'll actually use the lathe for. IF I do, I'll just be sure to go slow on it. Besides, as I mentioned, I have a set of taps and dies that I can use to thread things.

I'll be going to the local HF shortly. Going to send off another email to the place selling the Clarke lathe to see if they'll price it where I'm comfortable. If not, then I'll try the HF lathe. I do plan on running it as much as possible during the initial 2-3 months. If it doesn't fail me in that amount of time, it should be good for until I outgrow it.

Golddiggie said:

I could see getting a Grizzly lathe later, if the HF dies after a year (or when it does, and I'm not between contracts again).

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I was looking Into small lathes and mills quite a lot a couple years ago, and I remember both the Harbor Freight and the Grizzly lathes being built in the same Chinese factory by Sieg. It seemed like, While they might have different features, the overall quality was about the same. Look and see if the Harbor Freight has plastic gears for the leadscrew.

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/versions/Versions_harbor_freight.htm

I posted those sites for tooling, you are right the LMS lathe is more expensive. The lathe is full of plastic gears not just for thread timing.

I need to hold off on getting this a bit... Need to see if I can do what I really need with my existing drill press (I know I won't be able to turn anything, but I might be able to ream out the fittings I need to). Once I'm actually on a job again, I'll be in a better position to get a better lathe. IF I find that I can't do the task with the drill press (or even a slower moving drill press) and there are not any machine shops that will do the job for me at a reasonable rate, I'll revisit.

Find a used lathe on CL or look in the industrial auctions. There is absolutely no comparison in the rigidity of the HF lathe compared to even an old Atlas for $400. By the time you are done, you will end up with more in tooling (chucks, tool holders, boring bars, etc) so you might as well buy something that will last so you only have to buy it all once.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/tls/3398541597.html

Camping57 said:

Find a used lathe on CL or look in the industrial auctions. There is absolutely no comparison in the rigidity of the HF lathe compared to even an old Atlas for $400. By the time you are done, you will end up with more in tooling (chucks, tool holders, boring bars, etc) so you might as well buy something that will last so you only have to buy it all once.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/tls/3398541597.html

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X2

All the new manual stuff is mostly junk. Get an older lathe in good shape.

A toolmakers lathe would be ideal for what you're talking about.

I second the craigslist hunting, that HF lathe is ok. Shallow cuts and being gentle are the key to it lasting. I'm not a fan.

You are most likely better off sticking with your drill press like you said, you will find you only use a mini lathe if you can find an excuse to.. there not all that usefull compared to a real lathe

Scored a new 12 speed floor drill press from Lowe's today... Need to get a chuck keg that's a 100% proper fit, but until then I can use the one from the other drill press. Goes down to 300rpm, which is far better than the 480rpm of the bench drill press... Couldn't pass up the price on it... Just couldn't...

New drill press:


Sticker SHOCK!!


No delivery charges (they removed the head for me, and then loaded it into the back of the truck) or sales tax. :rockin: I'll get the actual model number off it (PCB660DP). It was the last one there, and they're not carrying that model anymore... Besides the work light built in, it has frickin lasers...

So, SCORE!!!

Hell yeah man I'd say.
good score

Not to mention it's a lot easier on my budget with this... Stoked about using it for the first time. Probably going to be tomorrow on that.

Almost ready to get a mini-lathe, even with having the drill press. As great as the press is, I think I'll still get a good amount of use out of the mini-lathe. I'm also seriously looking at the 7x12 lathe model from Grizzly. If you take the coupon out of the mix, the Grizzly model is actually less money, to my door, than the HF model that's the same size. Plus, the Grizzly comes with additional items/tools that the HF simply doesn't. Like a steady rest, which I can very much see using. Might need to get a 4 jaw chuck early on, so that I can mount the item off center and use it to drill the two additional holes in the stainless pieces.

Don't do it man. Get a good used lathe. Hardinge makes a very good tool makers lathe.

PapsD said:

Don't do it man. Get a good used lathe. Hardinge makes a very good tool makers lathe.

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Been looking for used ones in the size I need... Guess what, either the same price as a new one, or the person wants MORE with less tools with it (like a missing turret). Also looking on ebray but those have laughable warranty periods. Like 30 days IF you're lucky. Sorry, but the Grizzly has a full year warranty, comes with all the accessories I'll need to use it (sans some tools but I can get those at an affordable rate), at a better rate than the rest.

Unless you know of a store that offers a full year warranty on the lathe (and all that comes with/in it) that can be delivered (to my door) for the same rate (or less) than the Grizzly...

Yeah but you won't get the accuracy or rigidity of a hardinge out of a grizzly. You're gonna get a better lathe that can handle some serious use if you get a hardinge or other high quality lathe. There's a reason they cost more.

You can buy more and better tooling to fit the hardinge plus it would be worth it to get it repaired if/when something happens. It probably would be nearly impossible to get that grizzly repaired.

PapsD said:

Yeah but you won't get the accuracy or rigidity of a hardinge out of a grizzly. You're gonna get a better lathe that can handle some serious use if you get a hardinge or other high quality lathe. There's a reason they cost more.

You can buy more and better tooling to fit the hardinge plus it would be worth it to get it repaired if/when something happens. It probably would be nearly impossible to get that grizzly repaired.

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What do those cost??? I am stretching my budget to get the Grizzly... Unless you have one you can send me, for free, that is.

Also, I need one that's under 80-90# so that I can move it as needed. I'm not looking to get something that's a few hundred pounds (or more). With the full year warranty from Grizzly, I don't expect to have any issues getting it repaired IF needed. To expect me to spend 4x (or more) my budget on a tool is just stupid.

The new ones are through the roof. Look @ used old machines.

If I had a sweet lathe like that I'd sit in my garage and drink homebrew and turn parts to make a living.

The best manual machines were made before the 1950's. The stuff made before WW2 is even better.

PapsD said:

The new ones are through the roof. Look @ used old machines.

If I had a sweet lathe like that I'd sit in my garage and drink homebrew and turn parts to make

The best manual machines were made before the 1950's. The stuff made before WW2 is even better.

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Bubba, I've BEEN looking at local sources for this size lathe. Guess what, NONE available at anywhere near a price that makes sense. I have a very limited budget for this first one. As long as I get at least a solid year of use out of it, I'll be good. I've already been talking with another HBT member about this. Chances are, I can get metal replacement gears (for the plastic ones in it) from either McMaster-Carr, Grainger, or MSC. That's pretty much the only parts that could wear on me, prematurely.

My budget is being stretched at the delivered cost of the Grizzley. With no prices even listed for the ones you're talking about (new) the used prices will be far outside of my budget. I'm not about to go digging through tons of site to try and find one. I also won't buy an used tool/machine without being able to see it first. Especially with the costs of shipping involved.

I have one of those from HF.


I've use it mainly on 410 s/steel and 14 kt gold for thumb studs on some of my folding knives. 304 stainless can be "work hardening" and tough as hell, so light cuts are the way to go.

Various cutting tools can be found here:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm

Good luck

I want a mill with dro, lathe, and standing drill press in my basement. Looking at grizzly, or hoping to find it all from a shop going outta business.

Blademaker said:

I have one of those from HF.


I've use it mainly on 410 s/steel and 14 kt gold for thumb studs on some of my folding knives. 304 stainless can be "work hardening" and tough as hell, so light cuts are the way to go.

Various cutting tools can be found here:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm

Good luck

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I found that out when I drilled my first piece of 304 stainless. Tried to jump too many steps and it glowed nice and then done. Destroyed two bits trying to finish the hole (had them already). I then picked up a new set of bits (29 set up to 1/2" in 1/64 increments) that will be used for the next try. I'm still holding off on drilling the second piece, since I don't want to bugger that one too.

I plan on getting some good tooling for the lathe, including a cutoff tool to use on some more stainless tubing/pipe. I can see using it for a good number of things that I'm otherwise unable to do now.

TowsonTiger22 said:

I want a mill with dro, lathe, and standing drill press in my basement. Looking at grizzly, or hoping to find it all from a shop going outta business.

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If you find a place that's getting rid of a lathe that's under ~100#, let me know. As long as I've not ordered/unpacked the Grizzly, I'd be very interested.

I did have one of the mill/drill/lathe's before. Even the small ones are a BEAST. Few hundred pounds so be sure to have a couple of friends help you out.

Golddiggie said:

I found that out when I drilled my first piece of 304 stainless. Tried to jump too many steps and it glowed nice and then done. Destroyed two bits trying to finish the hole (had them already). I then picked up a new set of bits (29 set up to 1/2" in 1/64 increments) that will be used for the next try. I'm still holding off on drilling the second piece, since I don't want to bugger that one too.

I plan on getting some good tooling for the lathe, including a cutoff tool to use on some more stainless tubing/pipe. I can see using it for a good number of things that I'm otherwise unable to do now.



If you find a place that's getting rid of a lathe that's under ~100#, let me know. As long as I've not ordered/unpacked the Grizzly, I'd be very interested.

I did have one of the mill/drill/lathe's before. Even the small ones are a BEAST. Few hundred pounds so be sure to have a couple of friends help you out.

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I suggest some kind of lube or cutting oil and a slow speed when working any 300 series stainless steel.
Also carbide bits are pricey, but worth it.

Blademaker said:

I suggest some kind of lube or cutting oil and a slow speed when working any 300 series stainless steel.
Also carbide bits are pricey, but worth it.

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Drill was going as slow as possible (300rpm) and I was using coolant. I tried to jump too much between holes. Had I gone in smaller steps it probably would have been fine. I've drilled more than a few pieces of stainless when I was also making knives (ATS-34 mostly, back in the 90's).

I picked up a set of cobalt bits since I've had great luck with those. The bits I got over a decade ago are just now needing replacing.

I plan on using the lathe at even lower speeds than the drill. I might start the holes on the drill press, but stop before I hit 1/4". Then step up the holes from there on the lathe.

ATS is my go to stainless when I'm not using my damascus.

Try Enco if you are on a budget. My throw away tools are from HF. I would never buy anything from HF that I would use to try to make a living...meh, maybe shoprags. I will not carry on about their pneumatic tools.

I have purchased many tools from Enco. Much of the items are from factories overseas. I would say that the quality is much better than HF.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=501&PARTPG=INLMK3&PMITEM=110-0800

If you so buy HF, don't skimp on the warranty or insurance.

If you intend to cut stainless, find a tool distributor near you and cozy up to them. You don't want to burn through tools and harden your workpiece. The correct tool for the job can last a long time.

Blademaker said:

ATS is my go to stainless when I'm not using my damascus.

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You suck...

I've been buying knives (folders) that use either AUS8 or VG10 (or at least VG10 cores). I have a couple of pieces of damascus still in bar form from way back. I might, at some future point, have the tools needed to make something from them. Until then, they sit and wait. They're just too damned nice to do a hack job on/with.

I think I have some O1 and maybe D2 stock still. I know I have a 1/4" thick piece of ATS-34 still (not sure how long, but decent length).