Ready to build first mash tun...

I have brewed a couple of all grain batches with my friends cooler style tuns. I am setup to brew ten gallon batches so I am looking for a tun that's large enough to accommodate but not leave superfluous head space. I also tend to brew big beers. My last 5 gallon batch called for 22 lbs. of grain. Right now I am thinking of buying this one...

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-Xtreme-120-Quart-Cooler/14574678?findingMethod=rr#Product+Reviews

Too big? Too small?

Also, I am going to be building a manifold. I have read many threads debating the benefits of bazooka tube vs. manifold. I have decided to go manifold. I'm not sure on CPVC or Copper? Benefits outside of cost?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

I use a 10 gallon bev cooler and can accommodate up to 23lbs of grain. I use a copper manifold and it works great. My concern with CPVC is it is not food grade material and may cause issues with the mash, I could be wrong, just my .02

Do you think that a 30 gallon would leave too much headspace?

SteelCityBrewery said:

Do you think that a 30 gallon would leave too much headspace?

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Depending on the size of the grain bill if there is.a lot of empty space you may have a harder time maintaining temps during the mash.

I have a 5 gallon and a 10 gallon round cooler with copper manifolds. IMO copper is the way to go. No issues with copper at all. Just put your drain holes on the bottom of manifold. I learned that the hard way.

I'd splurge on the 1/2" stainless valves and bulkheads like these http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=47.

I used the Lowe's brand brass fittings originally, but switched to these. The cost is about the same once you factor in all the pieces and parts you need to make the Lowe's stuff fit properly, especially the stainless washers.

Bobby M has a handy chart for sizing cooler tuns https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-big-your-mash-tun-needs-123585/

you may also want to look at Bobby M's bulkhead design also. I did mine this way and have never had even a single drop leak.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/no-leak-mlt-bulkhead-design-87197/

I use CPVC. Easy to cut and drill and cheaper than copper. I don't worry about food grade since it's rated for potable hot water.

I have their 70Q version and regularly have ample head space. Here is a picture of 23 lbs of grain at 1.25Q/lb ratio. I could probably fit another 20lb if needed. I hope this will provide some perspective

I went ahead with the 70qt cooler. Now I just need to figure out the best manifold design...

Some good info at john Palmers book site. I followed his specs and it works great. I did cut slits and drill holes between slits.
http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-1.html

not sure what b-boy means by bottom slots only.. 4 batches so far with 78-80% eff. i have them on both sides. and so does joe.. who i trust knows what he is doing i made mine just like this one,, also i use the 70quart xtreame cooler. i recently done a 23lb grain bill and had plenty of space for more.

grimzella said:

not sure what b-boy means by bottom slots only.. 4 batches so far with 78-80% eff. i have them on both sides. and so does joe.. who i trust knows what he is doing i made mine just like this one,, Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pE3mcU_equc also i use the 70quart xtreame cooler. i recently done a 23lb grain bill and had plenty of space for more.

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What he means is the slots in the manifold should face the bottom of the tun.

duboman said:

What he means is the slots in the manifold should face the bottom of the tun.

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i dont see that in joe's video. his slots are on top. what am i missing here?

I was thinking of doing slots on the top and bottom to increase wort uptake. Is this wrong?

SteelCityBrewery said:

I was thinking of doing slots on the top and bottom to increase wort uptake. Is this wrong?

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IME, if the slots are on the top they will get plugged up with debris as you drain and the bed settles. Once the debris gets into the manifold you will reduce flow and possibly wind up stuck. If the slots are only on the bottom the pressure forces the wort up into the manifold and out to drain

so far so good. no stuck. 4 batches. i have slots on bottom and top. 3rd batch was a 22 or 23 lb grain bill 90min mash Belgian strong dark = yummy

SteelCityBrewery said:

I went ahead with the 70qt cooler. Now I just need to figure out the best manifold design...

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The best manifold design is no manifold! Use a SS braid.

Denny said:

The best manifold design is no manifold! Use a SS braid.

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Interesting, I used to use an SS braid and was having issues so I switched to a manifold and now everything is consistently better, maybe my SS braid just plain sucked

duboman said:

Interesting, I used to use an SS braid and was having issues so I switched to a manifold and now everything is consistently better, maybe my SS braid just plain sucked

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Maybe so.... I know a lot of people who have had manifold problems and switched to braids. My own experience is that a braid works better for me than a manifold did.

I have to agree with Denny... My braid works flawlessy, even on 26lb grain bills which is pretty much my systems max. It filters incredibly well too.

I use a braid in my 70Q without issue as well. Also has very little wort left over when I'm emptying grain.... +/- .5G

Maybe it's the whole round Bev cooler vs rectangle, I use a 10g Bev cooler and the whole round spiral thing wasn't working well and leaving a lot of wort, the manifold leaves almost nothing.

It just goes to show that there really is no right or wrong, it's what works best for your own set up!

it also give the OP something to look at. either one works just fine. and jumping right into it will be the only way hes gonna find out. so get to it and start mashing. we want some beers!!

Grimzella, I'm trying.... As soon as I get this manifold/braid put together, you are more than welcome to have some of my brews!

thats great. we at least, both live on the same side of the state. maybe we can meet and swap once we get a good amount of beers ready to drink.

Bricks41 said:

I use a braid in my 70Q without issue as well. Also has very little wort left over when I'm emptying grain.... +/- .5G

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Do you fly sparge? If not you might try shortening the braid so it won't get caught up when you stir.

good suggestion. thats kinda why i went with copper. stays in place. not that the braid does this if its the right type or has a wire inside supporting the braid.. but pipes never flatten. copper to me just seems like a build and forget type of thing. except for cleaning.

grimzella said:

good suggestion. thats kinda why i went with copper. stays in place. not that the braid does this if its the right type or has a wire inside supporting the braid.. but pipes never flatten. copper to me just seems like a build and forget type of thing. except for cleaning.

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All I can say is that I've used the same braid for over 425 batches. I've used up to 75 lb. of grain with it. I have no supporting wire. The braid is a bit beaten up, but it's never flattened and I've never had a stuck runoff.

One time I had issues with the stir, but I have a good technique now where I get good grain movement without disturbing the braid.... movement is similar to beating an egg with a fork.

Copper wasn't in my budget, nor do I have the tools to cut slits.

Same... no supporting wire and no issues with drainage so far, but not using 75 lbs of grain lol.

Here's a video of me doing a batch sparge and how I stir in the water....

Just an update for everyone, I brewed my first all grain batch this weekend. I went with a copper manifold with slots on the bottom. My old man gave me some advice about putting the slots on the bottom so that the wort would drain from the lowest point in the tun. I used a 4 way cross to join the pipes and used a short piece of silicone tube to join the two. I brewed yesterday and actually went over my expected gravity of 1.068 to about 1.072. She drained perfectly after vorlaufing. I will say that I definitely see the benefits of a direct fire mash tun. I didn't preheat my mash tun and by the time my grain was all doughed in my mash temp was down to 149. I tried to heat some water up but the 12 gallons of water and 26 pounds of grain filled my tun to the brim. I mashed as planned and still hit my pre-boil gravity but my wort seemed thinner than usual. Not too much though. I appreciate the help everyone! Prost!

It's your first AG brew...don't sweat the temp. If you were, say, 5 degrees low this time just heat your water 5 degrees hotter next time. A couple times doing that to dial things in and you won't have to waste time preheating your tun.

yup thats what i do. preheating seems like a wasted step once you dial your equipment in. Beersmith makes this nice.