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Here a few random build pictures.

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You had me right up til the pic of the temp probes in water for primary fermentation, poo poo.

Very nice work on everything else, i'm almost sorry I badgered you in the classified section.:mug:

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I'm jealous. Really jealous. I want to hate you for having something that awesome that I'll never have.

Nice stuff, man. Be proud.
 
wow again. the opposite side of the garage is freakin awesome too.

one question for you? how hot does that OSB get behind your brew kettles? seams like adding a less flammable material or a SS backsplash of some kind might be a good idea. better safe than sorry considering how nice your "garage" is.
 
You had me right up til the pic of the temp probes in water for primary fermentation, poo poo.



Very nice work on everything else, i'm almost sorry I badgered you in the classified section.:mug:

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Where do you suggest I’m always open for suggestions? Just did the water thing because I thought it would be better than open air. I thought about putting temp probes into each fermenter through grommet in lids to monitor activity and control compressor with off one in water. Problem is I don’t want to make drastic changes in temp based on one fermentation. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Don't sweat the classified section...No offense taken.:mug:
 
Where do you suggest I’m always open for suggestions?

It is tough when fermenting that many beers at one time. I just do one at a time and tape the probe to the side of the fermenter.

I find this keeps the temps within 2f no matter how active the fermentation. Any way you do it you will have decent temp swings with that many buckets at one time.
Get a pipeline going and start fermenting one at a time.;)



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wow again. the opposite side of the garage is freakin awesome too.

one question for you? how hot does that OSB get behind your brew kettles? seams like adding a less flammable material or a SS backsplash of some kind might be a good idea. better safe than sorry considering how nice your "garage" is.

I know. The OSB sucks.

OSB is the first thing to go and when I get the money I will go stainless or tile. Actually that is why I am selling left over stuff in the classifieds is to raise some dough to cover the OSB.

Surprisingly it does not get too hot because the burners are down in and surrounded with stainless. You can lay your hand on the table in front of vessels and will not burn your hand. Either way it has to go. Thanks.
 
Get a pipeline going and start fermenting one at a time.;)



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Good Idea and once I have a recipe I really like I will invest in a larger fermenter and do one big batch at time. A friend is trying to give me a 4 foot by 6 foot walk in box and I might take it for a future chamber to put a couple decent conicals in. My initial goal was to brew once a week until I get 4 lager beers in the primary. Then brew every two weeks after that. Once I move the last lager to secondary I am going to try a couple of ales one at a time. Want to brew as much as possible to work out my processes and get some beer on back up in case I end up with a bad batch.
 
How is a stagnant gel pack going to control fermentation temps? Fine but not necessary for a kegerator, but simply not the best option for a fermenter.


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:off:
The gel pack can control ambient temps, so it controls fermentation over multiple vessels. There are lots of ideas on how to handle it with a single vessel, but when dealing with multiple vessels, I like the idea of monitoring semi-ambient conditions. The gel pack provides a little slower response, so opening the door doesn't automatically make the compressor come on but it will respond to the heat dumped into the fridge by the fermentation cycles of all your vessels. Control the ambient and the vessels will follow. It'd be interesting to have a data logger monitor the temp of a vessel using this method, but I don't have the setup to do a comparison.


Oh and Maxout...PROST!
 
The_Dog_42 said:
:off:
The gel pack can control ambient temps, so it controls fermentation over multiple vessels. There are lots of ideas on how to handle it with a single vessel, but when dealing with multiple vessels, I like the idea of monitoring semi-ambient conditions. The gel pack provides a little slower response, so opening the door doesn't automatically make the compressor come on but it will respond to the heat dumped into the fridge by the fermentation cycles of all your vessels. Control the ambient and the vessels will follow. It'd be interesting to have a data logger monitor the temp of a vessel using this method, but I don't have the setup to do a comparison.

Oh and Maxout...PROST!

Thank you, I like the gel idea. I was going to use the data logging feature on the BCS and place a probe in each vessel and one in ambient. I have three separate fermentations going on in there now and getting ready to be four today. Ive been watching the strips on the buckets nut they seem to all be the same? Problem is I do not have a hole for the probe in existing fermenting vessel's and don't dare try to mod the lid in the middle of a fermentation. I will start with the new batch that will go in today and see what happens.
 
Can you tell us where you got the color coded rings for your hoses and a where you got the burner ignitors?
 
What insulation did you use on the temperature sensor cables? It looks like mesh/fiberglass but I'm curious where you sourced it. We are having some heat issues with our sensors and other wiring, so I'm looking for something to protect it from the heat.
 
Tarheel4985 said:
What insulation did you use on the temperature sensor cables? It looks like mesh/fiberglass but I'm curious where you sourced it. We are having some heat issues with our sensors and other wiring, so I'm looking for something to protect it from the heat.

I bought the braided wire sleeve on eBay -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-4-...16794782QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo#ht_500wt_722

To be honest I would look around for actual fiberglass sleeve as this is flame retardant at best. If you are looking for good heat insulation they sell the fiberglass stuff in a tape that you can just wrap around the wires. I've used in on exhaust headers and is probably a better solution if you have serious heat. This stuff I used looks good and adds a little flame retardant but not suitable for extreme heat shielding. The link is to the stuff I used and will get you in the ball park as they offer a million types.
 
What insulation did you use on the temperature sensor cables? It looks like mesh/fiberglass but I'm curious where you sourced it. We are having some heat issues with our sensors and other wiring, so I'm looking for something to protect it from the heat.

This is the high temp fabric I used to wrap my wires that were going to be around my burners. I put cheap electric ignitors on my burners and used this fabric to cover it. The fabric is right next to the flame and my burners put out some flame! This fabric works great and it comes in all different sizes and lengths.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-4-...baQQitemZ360234435258QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo
 
Can you tell us where you got the color coded rings for your hoses and a where you got the burner ignitors?

The rings on the hoses are just colored zip ties. :) The igniters I got from a local HVAC supply company, I can give you their name and number if you like. They were the Honeywell Q3450 Intermittent Hot Surface Ignition With pilot. I couldn't find a "deal" on the igniters I think they were around $70.00 each. Work really well and light every time no matter what.
 
Summary-

Bought a 5 gallon recipe from local HBS called “North of the Boarder” Cervesa. Not my favorite style beer but wanted to try a “cervesa” style beer for some friends who helped with the build.

Not sure exactly what is in it as it is a proprietary recipe. All In all it added up to 8.25lbs of grain and two hop additions. Used smack pack of Wyeast 2007 pilsen lager yeast.

Without getting too detailed I did a single infusion 60 min mash at 154 while reticulating, mash out , fly sparge and 75 min boil and ended up with exactly 5 gallons in the fermenter. Thanks to the BCS-462 and Beersmith2 I nailed my volumes and temps. My OG ended up 1.041.

I am still a rookie and this is my 4th brew so appreciate any criticisms and advice.

In Pictures - Whole malt, fill HLT/HT EX with water right below mash temp and BK with strike water volume below strike temp. Instant hot water heater shaves an hour of brew day. I recirculate in the HLT to keep temps even through out.

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im going to say what everyone is thinking.. To be doing your 4th brew on that is so totally wrong, and congratulations :mug:. Those of us who say that though, its just outta jealousy so dont take it seriously. Kudos for you to take the time to build it and understand it and not just drop the $$$ on a prebuilt system as a new brewer, At least it shows some understanding of what your system is doing, and why.

Its friggin awesome.
 
Heating strike water and heat exchanger the rest of the way with the BG-14’s under BCS control. BCS will hold temps and sound buzzer when temps are reached. Prepped the mill over the mash tun and grind the malt. Check my crush? MM3 with gap set at .039. I was milling into a large pot the dumping into mash tun but was losing allot of the fine powder so I decided to do this one directly into the mash tun.

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I transfer the strike water from the BK to the mash tun dough in and let rest. After about 10 min I started recirculating and maintained 154 degrees for 1 hour. Through testing and brewing I have learned that to maintain temps during recirculation I need the HLT about 3-4 degrees above actual desired mash temp. This is due to heat loss in the tubing and pumps. Took a lot of testing to dial it in. I’ve also learned that wort reacts slightly different than water did during testing and has required some tweaking since I started brewing. Last two batches I have been able to set it and just watch. Feels good to get to that point and the wort really get cleared up.

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Finished mashing and mashed out. I sparge with water that was pre-heated to 168 in the HLT during mash out. I move the output from the mash tun through a pump and into the BK. I take the output that was hooked to the mash tun during recirculation and hook to the output of the HLT. This way all the wort that is in the heat exchanger, pump and lines gets pushed out by the sparge water coming from the HLT. Cleans the system and saves all the wort. :) I keep an eye on the HLT level to measure the desired sparge volume and target pre boil volume. Take a pre-boil gravity reading and start boil.

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Boiled for 75 min with two hop additions, one at start of boil and one at 60 min. During boil I clean mash tun, sanitize fermentor and tools, drain HLT and fill with ice preparing for cool. I also tried to recirculate in BK this time during boil to help with hop utilization. Seemed to make a little difference. Boiled down to desired volume, flame out. Circulate through heat exchanger to cool while whirl pooling in BK. Cool to desired temp and let rest so large particle can settle before transferring to fermener.

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Last but not least I take my post boil gravity reading, transfer to fermentor from BK with siphon, oxygenate with med grade O2 regulated a 2 ppm for 2 min, pitch yeast, install air lock, label bucket and place in primary fermenter….wait. At this point I put Saniclean in the HLT circulate through both pumps and heat exchanger and let sit over night to sanitize system for next use. Drain the following day.

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Good looking process to go along with that great looking rig.
Awesome documentation!
 
So one question:

When do you find time to brew? :D

I'm on a much needed break from work and taking care of all the things I have been putting off including posting here:) SWIMBO has a bunch of honeydoos for me to do and in between I'm getting my brew on!:D Ive been building this rig for 6 months and it feels good to finally have some home brew in the pipeline to show for it!

Just in time too as my state just raised the sales tax on alcohol to 9%. Recession = higher alcohol sales and high debt = new taxes. Hit us were it hurts.... Home brewing is my way of avoiding high taxes. :mug:
 
im going to say what everyone is thinking.. To be doing your 4th brew on that is so totally wrong, and congratulations :mug:. Those of us who say that though, its just outta jealousy so dont take it seriously. Kudos for you to take the time to build it and understand it and not just drop the $$$ on a prebuilt system as a new brewer, At least it shows some understanding of what your system is doing, and why.

Its friggin awesome.

Thank you, and everyone for the kind words,

building the system has been challenging and as much fun as brewing. Your right.;) If I just dropped the coin on a Brew Magic I would not have learned as much as I did building my own nor would I appreciate the results as much. I think the DIY aspect of brewing is what really got me started and only DIY'ers can understand that. This has quickly become my favorite hobby and I am constantly looking at my system and thinking how I can make it better. :)
 
Congratulations on a fine setup! This is amazing. I am completely envious of your work and your "Garagemahall". Some day I aspire to have something just like this...
 
Awesome system. It's a good thing you like homebrewing, it would suck to finish your first batch and think "This is lame, I just want to buy some beer from the store".

Also, it's kind of late but I think the hops on your cervesa were meant to be at the start of your boil, then 15 minutes before you end the boil. It sounds like you did 1 package for 75 minutes, then added the second package 15 minutes later at 60 minutes. I just re-read that post and I'm not sure which way you did it. Either way, your set-up still rocks.
 
I find it weird that you are brewing only your 4th batch of beer on one of the raddest homebrew systems around. Good on ya!!
I'm on the 4th iteration of my system, and have yet to get anywhere near your level of stainlessness. I just built a new wooden brewstand out of timber I found at work.
Since your system and process is so pristine, you might want to make upgrading your fermenters the next step. I've found fermenting in corny kegs to be one of the best moves I've made. I won't go back to glass or buckets, but I may upgrade to a sanke fermenter eventually. Cheers.
 
I find it weird that you are brewing only your 4th batch of beer on one of the raddest homebrew systems around. Good on ya!!
I'm on the 4th iteration of my system, and have yet to get anywhere near your level of stainlessness. I just built a new wooden brewstand out of timber I found at work.
Since your system and process is so pristine, you might want to make upgrading your fermenters the next step. I've found fermenting in corny kegs to be one of the best moves I've made. I won't go back to glass or buckets, but I may upgrade to a sanke fermenter eventually. Cheers.

Agreed! fermenting in corny kegs is the way to go unless you have a couple grand to drop on some conicals, which I have a feeling the OP does...amazing system man!
 
Wait - is that your fourth batch ever, or simply your fourth batch on this rig?

If it's your fourth ever, color me even more amazed!!! I've been watching this thread progress the past couple days, and you've got some amazing work here - but to do it all before ever brewing a batch just boggles the mind!

Keep with it - with gear like this and your obvious capacity to learn new things to an impressive level of detail, I've no doubt you'll be making some amazing beers!
 
Living on the beach is great, but space near the west coast isn't something that is afforded to a garage... You make me want to live in Nevada - I think I could buy the whole state for a year's salary...
 
The rings on the hoses are just colored zip ties. :) The igniters I got from a local HVAC supply company, I can give you their name and number if you like. They were the Honeywell Q3450 Intermittent Hot Surface Ignition With pilot. I couldn't find a "deal" on the igniters I think they were around $70.00 each. Work really well and light every time no matter what.

I just used the standard grill ignitors. I bought 3 for 25 bucks. I covered the wires with high temp fabric and placed the ignitor right next to the burner. Works like a charm everytime and have not had any issues with the heat affecting the wires or anything else.
 
So what kettle do you put a lid on and why? I don't use any lids as it lets all the impurities out.

Also, did you polish your kegs? I am about to and I want to get an idea of how long it is going to take me.

Nice setup.
 
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