90 minute IPA for extract

Whats up fellow brewers, my buddy and I wanted to try a 90 min IPA Extract Recipe, does anyone know of any or have any recipes? I couldnt find any posted.
Thanks'
Brian

I have your answer, my son and I are doing just that on friday. Here is the link I have on the pages I printed:

http://forum.alcoholreport.com/t11065/

if that doesn't work, PM me and ill scan the two pages back to you later today.


sheldon

http://www.xtremebrewing.com/

This guy is buddies with Sam (founder DogFish) Great clone!

awesome, this looks great, thanks gentlemen!!

...bump.

Decided this will be my next brew. I'm tired of LME - it's just a total pain in the ass, and want to start using DME, with some "advanced techniques" (sparging). I don't have the space or the SWMBO permission (yes, my balls are in her purse) to start all-grain brewing yet. Mainly it's a space issue, we have a 2BR condo that we're remodeling for some sweat equity, to move up to a house where I can have my mantown. Once we get a house with a basement or garage, then I'll get myself some nicer equipment and start in with the AG.

Anyways, here's the recipe from Alcoholreport:

Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA

This recipe has been floating around the internet and several magazines lately. It continues to be in high demand so I'm adding it to my collection. The addition of Amber/Brown Malt in this recipe contributes more to a suttle roast flavor but little of the sweetness you might expect in a beer of amber color. The hop additions to this recipe are not your normal boil/flavor/aroma additions. In the 90 minute boil you will be adding 1/4 ounce of hops every 8 minutes followed by another 2 ounces of hops added to the secondary fermenter or keg (dry hopping). If this recipe seems confusing, you are probably doing it right.

8 lbs Light Dry Malt Extract
1 3/4 lb German Pilsner Malt
1 3/4 lb Brown (amber) Malt 35 L
2 oz Amarillo Hops 16 HBUs
3/4 oz Simcoe Hops 8 HBUs
1/2 oz Warrior Hops 8 HBUs
1 oz Amarillo Hops -Dry Hop
1/2 oz Simcoe Hops -Dry Hop
1/2 oz Warrior Hops -Dry Hop
Wyeast British Ale Yeast

For Bottling: 1 1/4 cup Dry Malt Extract Or 3/4 cup Corn sugar

Partial Mash:
Add the cracked, Pilsner Malt and Brown Malt to 1 gal of 170º water. This combination of grain and hot water (mash) will drop in temperature to 150º. Let the mash sit for 1 hour at 150º. Sparge (rinse) the grain with 2 1/2 gals of 170º water and collect run off into the boil kettle.

Boil:
Add to the boil kettle, 8 lbs. of Dry Light Malt Extract and bring to a boil. Watch out for boil overs. In a separate bowl, mix together 2 oz. Amarillo hops, 3/4 oz. Simcoe hops, and 1/2 oz. Warrior hops. For the next 90 minutes, boil the wort while adding 1/4 ounce of the hop mixture every 8 minutes. Sparge the hops with cold water into the fermenter. Add the wort to the fermenter with cold water to make 5 gals. Add yeast when the temp reaches 70º. Ferment at 70º for 7 days or until fermentation slows. Rack to a secondary fermenter.

Dry Hopping:
Add the dry hop combination into the secondary fermenter using a hop sack. Let it age 1 weeks in secondary then bottle or keg

If you keg your beer, add the dry hops into keg instead of the secondary.

For bottling, use 1 1/4 cup of dry malt extract or 3/4 cup of corn sugar boiled with 2 cups of water added in the bottling bucket.

Click to expand...

And here's my revised 7 gallon recipe: (please tell me what you think...)

Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA Extract Clone (7 Gallon Recipe)
The addition of Amber/Brown Malt in this recipe contributes more to a suttle roast flavor but little of the sweetness you might expect in a beer of amber color. The hop additions to this recipe are not your normal boil/flavor/aroma additions. In the 90 minute boil you will be adding 1/4 ounce (.35 oz to be precise) of hops every 8 minutes followed by another 3 ½ ounces of hops added to the secondary fermenter.

11 ¼ lbs Light Dry Malt Extract (exact conversion is 11.2 lbs)
2 ½ lbs German Pilsner Malt (exact conversion is 2.45 lbs)
2 ½ lbs Brown (amber) Malt 35 L (exact conversion is 2.45 lbs)
3 oz Amarillo Hops 16 HBUs (exact conversion is 2.8 oz)
1 oz Simcoe Hops 8 HBUs (exact conversion is 1.05 oz)
1 oz Warrior Hops 8 HBUs (exact conversion is 1.05 oz)
1 ½ oz Amarillo Hops -Dry Hop (exact conversion is 1.4 oz)
1 oz Simcoe Hops -Dry Hop (exact conversion is 1.05 oz)
1 oz Warrior Hops -Dry Hop (exact conversion is 1.05 oz)
Wyeast British Ale Yeast
For Bottling: 1 ¾ cup Dry Malt Extract Or 1 cup Corn sugar. {1}

Partial Mash:
Add the cracked, Pilsner Malt and Brown Malt to 1 ½ gal of 170º water. This combination of grain and hot water (mash) will drop in temperature to 150º. Let the mash sit for 1 hour at 150º. Sparge (rinse) the grain with 3 ½ gals of 170º water and collect run off into the boil kettle. {2}

Boil:
Add to the boil kettle, 11 ¼ lbs. of Dry Light Malt Extract and bring to a boil. Watch out for boil overs. In a separate bowl, mix together 3 oz. Amarillo hops, 1 oz. Simcoe hops, and 1 oz. Warrior hops. For the next 90 minutes, boil the wort while adding just over 1/4 ounce (.35 oz to be precise) of the hop mixture every 8 minutes. Sparge the hops with cold water into the fermenter. {3} Add the wort to the fermenter with cold water to make 7 gals. Add yeast starter when the temp reaches 70º. {4} Ferment at 70º for 7 days or until fermentation slows. Rack to a secondary fermenter.

Dry Hopping:
Add the dry hop combination into the secondary fermenter using a hop sack. {5} Let it age 1 weeks in secondary then bottle. {6}
Bottling:
For bottling, use 1 ¾ cup of dry malt extract or 1 cup of corn sugar boiled with 3 cups of water added in the bottling bucket. {1}

Click to expand...

My questions:
1) My standard rule so far has been 1oz of dextrose per gallon of "final product" that is actually in the bottling bucket... By the numbers I'd assume that DMEextrose = 1.75:1? I'm also assuming that you boil the DME with water, like you would boil dextrose with water? Directions were unclear, but I'm going with common sense on that assumption. 1.75oz DME per gallon in the bottling bucket, boiled in 3 cups of water sound about right? I'd be lying if I said I wasn't nervous about bottling with DME, but I said the same after ditching the carb drops for dextrose... And that has worked great.

2) That puts 5 gallons in my 5 ½ gallon boil kettle. Looks Like I'll need to upgrade if I don't want to boil over (indoor, stovetop). Question though is: I have never sparged. Can I do the BIAB sparging method, where I just get a grain bag/filter bag/whatever it's called, that covers the opening of the boil kettle, and sparge the 170º water over the grains that way? I'm assuming that is what they mean, I just want to be clear.

3) Sparge the hops with cold water into the fermenter. What does this mean? The hops all got added already... Confused.

4) I'll be making a yeast starter. Not really a question there I guess. I was going to go into detail about recovering actual Dogfish Head yeast... But I honestly don't think I'm ready for that yet. Soon though... I found a sweet centrifuge on ebay for short money.

5) Hop sack... I have been just tossing hops in, and letting them settle to the bottom. Again, I've had good luck with this. Do I really have to use a hop sack? I thought it was only for convenience. I autosiphon from secondary into the bottling bucket, which does an excellent job of keeping the sediment at the bottom and not stirring it up into the Ale Pail. Thoughts?

6) Secondary for only a week? That's it? Seems like a short time... I suppose the majority of the conditioning will be in the bottles then?

Thanks... Sorry for the huge post, but it's always better to be safe than sorry, and I know there's some real talent here that can answer these questions.

-Craig

lextasy23 said:

My questions:
1) My standard rule so far has been 1oz of dextrose per gallon of "final product" that is actually in the bottling bucket... By the numbers I'd assume that DMEextrose = 1.75:1? I'm also assuming that you boil the DME with water, like you would boil dextrose with water? Directions were unclear, but I'm going with common sense on that assumption. 1.75oz DME per gallon in the bottling bucket, boiled in 3 cups of water sound about right? I'd be lying if I said I wasn't nervous about bottling with DME, but I said the same after ditching the carb drops for dextrose... And that has worked great.

Click to expand...

DME is more expensive than corn sugar or table sugar, I don't know why you wouldn't just use sugar.

lextasy23 said:

2) That puts 5 gallons in my 5 ½ gallon boil kettle. Looks Like I'll need to upgrade if I don't want to boil over (indoor, stovetop). Question though is: I have never sparged. Can I do the BIAB sparging method, where I just get a grain bag/filter bag/whatever it's called, that covers the opening of the boil kettle, and sparge the 170º water over the grains that way? I'm assuming that is what they mean, I just want to be clear.

Click to expand...

You don't need to sparge with that much water. I would do the BIAB method where you just let it sit in 170* water for some time. Using 5 lbs of grain for your mash, you will have very little water needed for this. (1.25 quarts per pound)

lextasy23 said:

3) Sparge the hops with cold water into the fermenter. What does this mean? The hops all got added already... Confused.

Click to expand...

If you strain your wort while adding it to your carboy, sometimes you will want to pour the top-off water over the hop residue you strained out to get more out of it.

lextasy23 said:

4) I'll be making a yeast starter. Not really a question there I guess. I was going to go into detail about recovering actual Dogfish Head yeast... But I honestly don't think I'm ready for that yet. Soon though... I found a sweet centrifuge on ebay for short money.

Click to expand...

Yeast starters are good.

lextasy23 said:

5) Hop sack... I have been just tossing hops in, and letting them settle to the bottom. Again, I've had good luck with this. Do I really have to use a hop sack? I thought it was only for convenience. I autosiphon from secondary into the bottling bucket, which does an excellent job of keeping the sediment at the bottom and not stirring it up into the Ale Pail. Thoughts?

Click to expand...

Don't bother using a hop sack, I don't use them.

lextasy23 said:

6) Secondary for only a week? That's it? Seems like a short time... I suppose the majority of the conditioning will be in the bottles then?

Click to expand...

I wouldn't even bother using a secondary. Dry hop right in the primary after it's done.

bknifefight said:

DME is more expensive than corn sugar or table sugar, I don't know why you wouldn't just use sugar.

Click to expand...

I have plenty of both... It's not about the cost... I'm more curious about the difference in priming. How does DME method compare to dextrose? I don't use cane sugar because I was told it made crappy unrefined soda bubbles.

Whatever does the best job for this clone, is what I want to use.

bknifefight said:

You don't need to sparge with that much water. I would do the BIAB method where you just let it sit in 170* water for some time. Using 5 lbs of grain for your mash, you will have very little water needed for this. (1.25 quarts per pound)

Click to expand...

Ya, it sounded like a lot. 1.5 gallons, BIAB method. Then boil, then DME at flameout?

bknifefight said:

If you strain your wort while adding it to your carboy, sometimes you will want to pour the top-off water over the hop residue you strained out to get more out of it.

Click to expand...

Ahhhh, makes perfect sense. Great thanks. I never strain though. I let it go right in the primary, then autosiphon to secondary for more settling and clarifying. It's a pretty sweet setup, relatively easy, and produces pretty clear results. Not to mention the beer gets to sit with the hops longer.

bknifefight said:

Yeast starters are good.

Click to expand...

Yup. no arguments there.

bknifefight said:

Don't bother using a hop sack, I don't use them.

Click to expand...

Same as above... Just let it mingle with no bag, then settle out, then the night before racking i move it to the counter (so the next day when i rack it's settled and clear again, if anything got stirred up when moving).

bknifefight said:

I wouldn't even bother using a secondary. Dry hop right in the primary after it's done.

Click to expand...

I was under the impression that the secondary was recommended for conditioning, for pretty much any brew. I guess I need some clarification on the when's and do's and dont's of secondaries...

I had "yeast starter" logic. It isn't necessary, but only makes it better. No?

lextasy23 said:

I have plenty of both... It's not about the cost... I'm more curious about the difference in priming. How does DME method compare to dextrose? I don't use cane sugar because I was told it made crappy unrefined soda bubbles.

Whatever does the best job for this clone, is what I want to use.

Click to expand...

It won't make a difference in quality between DME and Corn Sugar. The difference will only be in the amount per gallon needed to get the carbonation you want.

lextasy23 said:

Ya, it sounded like a lot. 1.5 gallons, BIAB method. Then boil, then DME at flameout?

Click to expand...

Use 1.5 gallons for your mash and 1.5 gallons for your sparge. You will have plenty of room left over after that. Then do everything as you normally would.

lextasy23 said:

Ahhhh, makes perfect sense. Great thanks. I never strain though. I let it go right in the primary, then autosiphon to secondary for more settling and clarifying. It's a pretty sweet setup, relatively easy, and produces pretty clear results. Not to mention the beer gets to sit with the hops longer.

Click to expand...

It's pretty much all up to preferences. If you don't strain, you're getting all of the sugars/hop oils that I strain out and there is no need to rinse.

lextasy23 said:

I was under the impression that the secondary was recommended for conditioning, for pretty much any brew. I guess I need some clarification on the when's and do's and dont's of secondaries...No?

Click to expand...

Like above, it's all up to preference. If you want to to clear a bit more or bulk condition longer, then use a secondary. My only recommendation is that if you plan on bulk aging for some time, don't dry hop until 1 week before bottling. If you do it from the get-go and age it for a month, you may get grassy flavors from the hops.

I used this recipe a few months ago and it turned out great. Give this one time in bottle conditioning...

I tried it after 2 weeks and was a little disappointed, waited another month...and it's made a huge difference.

robh4413 said:

I used this recipe a few months ago and it turned out great. Give this one time in bottle conditioning...

I tried it after 2 weeks and was a little disappointed, waited another month...and it's made a huge difference.

Click to expand...

Can you compare what you did vs what I have noted in my 7 gallon conversion?

lextasy23, you're way too worried about this beer. Just do what you normally do and everything will turn out great, I promise.

I have done an all grain version of this and I think you may be headed for some problems...

1) The Original recipe calls for pilsner malt. That would be EXTRA light DME. In a 5 gallon batch 1 pound of dextrose (corn sugar) is ok to add and can complement the beer. I have NEVER heard of anyone using Dextrose (corn sugar) as a base malt. Table sugar will add a cidery taste and may be good for upping the gravity in fruit wine but in beer??? I would use Extra light DME as my base.

TIP: Mix the DME when the water is cool. Mix it in slow and try not to make clumps. DME clumps can be REALLY hard to get to dissolve. There seems to be less clumps when it is mixed cold.

2) huh? Do you have a second kettle? even if it is smaller? If so you can do a "split boil" I did this for a long time and it worked out well enough. If you have not I would steer you to : https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/ seriously, you need to read that link... vs. have us try to reinvent this process for you...

3) This sounds like an odd way of dry hopping. Which the 90 min does have...I am lost...no one I know of sparges the hops...

4) http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html Make a starter or pitch the right amount of vials/packs...

5) This is personal preference. The more that gets filtered out the more viable beer and less trub will be at the bottom of the fermentor. (You can pick up a 2 pack of 5 gallon paint strainer bags at Home depot or Lowes for about $3 and they work just fine. If you brew in a bucket toss one in the bucket (it has an elastic top) dump your wort in and lift out the bag. You can also use them in the boil kettle but it should NEVER touch the bottom.

6) What is a secondary? seriously this is a BIG beer, if you yank this off the yeast cake before it is done it can stall. You can restart the fermentation when you add in priming sugar to bottle it and then you MIGHT have bottle bombs and gushers.


On to the recipe and notes on that...

- 90 minute IPA is CONTINUOUSLY HOPPED for 90 minutes. I broke down the hops into12 - 7.5 min additions of the needed hops. I hope this is what you are planning to do or something similar. Also you are boiling it for 90 minuets right???

- There is a simcoe hops shortage so I hope you have those already...or can source them.

- Pilsner malt requires a protein rest or it will not convert. If you are planning to get fermentables from that pilsner malt you need to steep the grains @ 128-130F for 20-30 minutes then bring the temp up to 150 for 60 min mashing as normal.

Good luck and seriously look at that link...This whole thread is screwy...

Zamial said:

I have done an all grain version of this and I think you may be headed for some problems...

1) The Original recipe calls for pilsner malt. That would be EXTRA light DME. In a 5 gallon batch 1 pound of dextrose (corn sugar) is ok to add and can complement the beer. I have NEVER heard of anyone using Dextrose (corn sugar) as a base malt. Table sugar will add a cidery taste and may be good for upping the gravity in fruit wine but in beer??? I would use Extra light DME as my base.

TIP: Mix the DME when the water is cool. Mix it in slow and try not to make clumps. DME clumps can be REALLY hard to get to dissolve. There seems to be less clumps when it is mixed cold.

2) huh? Do you have a second kettle? even if it is smaller? If so you can do a "split boil" I did this for a long time and it worked out well enough. If you have not I would steer you to : https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/ seriously, you need to read that link... vs. have us try to reinvent this process for you...

3) This sounds like an odd way of dry hopping. Which the 90 min does have...I am lost...no one I know of sparges the hops...

4) http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html Make a starter or pitch the right amount of vials/packs...

5) This is personal preference. The more that gets filtered out the more viable beer and less trub will be at the bottom of the fermentor. (You can pick up a 2 pack of 5 gallon paint strainer bags at Home depot or Lowes for about $3 and they work just fine. If you brew in a bucket toss one in the bucket (it has an elastic top) dump your wort in and lift out the bag. You can also use them in the boil kettle but it should NEVER touch the bottom.

6) What is a secondary? seriously this is a BIG beer, if you yank this off the yeast cake before it is done it can stall. You can restart the fermentation when you add in priming sugar to bottle it and then you MIGHT have bottle bombs and gushers.


On to the recipe and notes on that...

- 90 minute IPA is CONTINUOUSLY HOPPED for 90 minutes. I broke down the hops into12 - 7.5 min additions of the needed hops. I hope this is what you are planning to do or something similar. Also you are boiling it for 90 minuets right???

- There is a simcoe hops shortage so I hope you have those already...or can source them.

- Pilsner malt requires a protein rest or it will not convert. If you are planning to get fermentables from that pilsner malt you need to steep the grains @ 128-130F for 20-30 minutes then bring the temp up to 150 for 60 min mashing as normal.

Good luck and seriously look at that link...This whole thread is screwy...

Click to expand...

^^ you missed a few things i guess.

It IS DME... Not dextrose as a malt lolol... I was talking about priming. What are the key differences priming with DME and priming with dextrose..?

TIP: Thanks

my kettle is fine. we discussed that too.

that's not dry hopping we're talking about, it whether to filter the hops out of the boil into the primary, and fill through the hop filled filter (sparge), or just leave them in the wort and let it settle out in the primary (which is what I do).

Ya, I make starters now. Way better. Building a stir plate from old computer parts.

wow, really? you sure you're not trolling?

yes, i have the hops.

i was going to follow sam's hopping instructions. A buddy of mine has his book, with the recipe. this is extract, so a tad different. I'm not trying to make a good beer, i'm trying to make a clone that is as close as possible to DFH, to compare with a buddy.

I'm not overthinking it bknifefight, I'm just trying to make this as absolutely close to DFH as possible.

That being said, I'm this close to skipping the DME, and making this my first AG with BIAB method...

Really though, I know that dextrose isn't a malt. lol

Cool deal. It sounded way out in left field or maybe I read things wrong. It happens. Best of luck! Sounds like you have this pretty well figured out.

1. Use less amber malt. You don't want 1.75lbs for a 5 gallon batch. 1-1.25lb tops.

No joke.

2. You might want to try WLP007 yeast, I feel it's closer to what DFH uses.

Well, good news and bad news.

Good news is, it's looking like a pretty good beer. Bad news is, (bad being a relative term lol) it's a 1.100 OG, so probably like 12%! Yowza!!

I used 3lb of both grains instead of 2.5, and over 12lb of LME not DME. It smelled incredible, and sure looked like it though. Even after watering it down a tad more to 8 gallons, it still wound up with the 1.100 OG.

Should be a rockin' good time though.

I did however add the hops incrementally about every 2 minutes. I just sat in the kitchen on a stool with the laptop next to the stove watching Netflix, and sprinkled in a few pellets every couple minutes. I eyeballed it perfectly because after an hour and a half, I was out of hops

I just hope the yeast can stand the 12% environment. Never made anything that high. I plan on keeping in in the primary for a week, then in secondary for at least 6 weeks.

More to come...

Thanks for the tip.

I was under the impression that I could get the majority of the fermentation done in the primary in a week (as in previous brews) then siphon it off into the secondary for the rest of the fermentation to occur. The trub leftover in the primary would include dead and settled yeast, and the hops goo. There should be more than enough healthy yeast in suspension to take care of the rest of the sugars in the secondary, right? My thought process for only a week in primary was to get it off the trub as soon as possible to avoid off-flavors.

Ideally I'd like to get it off the hops after a week, then a month of secondary, then drop in the dry hops, then bottle 2 weeks later as long as I'm at a stable FG...

A week in primary, a month in secondary, 2 weeks dry hopped, at least a month bottle conditioned.

lextasy23 said:

Thanks for the tip.

I was under the impression that I could get the majority of the fermentation done in the primary in a week (as in previous brews) then siphon it off into the secondary for the rest of the fermentation to occur. The trub leftover in the primary would include dead and settled yeast, and the hops goo. There should be more than enough healthy yeast in suspension to take care of the rest of the sugars in the secondary, right? My thought process for only a week in primary was to get it off the trub as soon as possible to avoid off-flavors.

Ideally I'd like to get it off the hops after a week, then a month of secondary, then drop in the dry hops, then bottle 2 weeks later as long as I'm at a stable FG...

A week in primary, a month in secondary, 2 weeks dry hopped, at least a month bottle conditioned.

Click to expand...

The old adage of getting it off the dead yeast bit is albut gone. The yeast isn't dead,it just goes dormant after all that munching. That's why a "stalled" ferment can be restarted with the same yeast by adjusting the temp,& stirring them up again.
A secondary eliminates all the yeast that is still used to finish fermenting & clean up by racking to secondary. Some that've done this on a big beer need to re-pitch. Did you keep loose hops from the BK to the fermenter? I use hop sacks to eliminate that. That way,I can dry hop more "cleanly" if you will,for a week before bottling. But always get a stable FG 1st,& let it clean up/settle out for a short time.

I would primary for a month at least. Don't transfer to secondary until you've confirmed the fermentation is done.

bknifefight said:

I would primary for a month at least. Don't transfer to secondary until you've confirmed the fermentation is done.

Click to expand...

+1

4 weeks Primary, no secondary.

You won't be disappointed.



This looks like a solid recipe. I think I'll give a go at this for my next brew. Also, some great tips by others regarding process. Should be no problem making something great.

So, you wouldn't worry about the beer sitting on a bed of spent hops from the boil (grassy/earthy flavors?), or sitting on the yeast that has fallen out of suspension? I thought that both of those would produce off flavors... No?

I guess I just don't fully understand why can't i let the rest of the fermentation occur in the secondary? My whole point there was to let the madness occur in my primary with the blowoff hose, then transfer it into secondary to let the yeast still in suspension do the rest of the work (when it's down to a point that an airlock wouldn't be blown off), clear/settle more, then dry hops for the last 2 weeks (probably 4 weeks into the secondary), then bottle.

My main concern was getting the spent hops trub out of the picture ASAP. It's been explained to me that dormant yeast is NBD, but I'm pretty sure letting it sit on hops grossness is no good for weeks on end. This is my main reasoning for a week in primary, the rest in a clean secondary, then 2 weeks of dry hopping. Probably an easy month in the bottles.

The secondary is not for fermentation, it's for clearing, dry hopping, oaking or fruiting.

I've read way too many threads here about people racking to secondary after a week and the beer stalls out and they have to pitch more yeast to get it going again.

Excellent, thanks for the tips. And more specifically, thanks for the clarification.

It'll be staying in the primary until it's at a stable FG - probably 4-6 weeks, then racked to the secondary for 2 weeks with the hops. Then in the bottles for a couple months ought to mellow it out nicely.

Solid plan? I'm not afraid to admit that I'm still a noob. I am receptive to pointers from you old pros

Ya they're all I use now.

lextasy23 said:

Excellent, thanks for the tips. And more specifically, thanks for the clarification.

It'll be staying in the primary until it's at a stable FG - probably 4-6 weeks, then racked to the secondary for 2 weeks with the hops. Then in the bottles for a couple months ought to mellow it out nicely.

Solid plan? I'm not afraid to admit that I'm still a noob. I am receptive to pointers from you old pros

Click to expand...

I think the FG will be stable long before the 4 week mark, especially if you're fermenting at 70*F as per the recipe. The long Primary mostly allows for yeast cleanup and clearing.

Your plan sounds great though. I'd go with a 1 week dry hop just to ensure it doesn't get too grassy. If you want, you can do this in Primary and entirely bypass Secondary.

unionrdr said:

Also be careful not to let "hoppy" beers sit too long. They wiil fade. I also use o2 barrier caps to slow this down. They seem to keep the flavors improving for a couple of extra weeks on pales,APA's,IPA's,that kind of thing. I'm sold on them,& they only cost about a buck more per 144cnt bag.

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Do you sanitize these before putting them on? I know it's always a debate, just had to ask since you mentioned them. I've never used them but I'm considering for a future batch.

nefarious_1_ said:

I think the FG will be stable long before the 4 week mark, especially if you're fermenting at 70*F as per the recipe. The long Primary mostly allows for yeast cleanup and clearing.

Your plan sounds great though. I'd go with a 1 week dry hop just to ensure it doesn't get too grassy. If you want, you can do this in Primary and entirely bypass Secondary.

Do you sanitize these before putting them on? I know it's always a debate, just had to ask since you mentioned them. I've never used them but I'm considering for a future batch.

Click to expand...

It's closer to 75°, but I don't think it should be a huge deal. STRONG fermentation... Blew all sorts of krausen through the blowoff hose into my gallon of sanitizer. I agree though, it's likely that it'll be done in more like a week or two, but the extra time in there will I guess be for clearing and additional settling.

I've had good luck in the past with letting it clear more in the secondary, regardless of how long it was in primary, so I think I'll still be going that route. I may even try a hop sack with a few marbles in it, something I have never done before.

Yes, I sanitize the caps. I put all my caps in a pint glass full of sanitizer, and just grab from there. It keeps my fingers sanitized during the bottling process too. Looks good on paper at least lol.

Ok so I know this is a big beer, and needs a while in primary, and that rule #1 is patience, and that 90% of noob questions is "it's fine, just relax and give it time", and that I'm probably worrying for no reason... But I still wanted to run my concerns by everyone...

This recipe turned out way stronger that I had originally planned. I was aiming for 8-9%, but got a 1.100 OG, or 12% if it gets all the way down to 1.010. But... it's been stuck at 1.025ish for 3 or 4 days now. My new buddy at my new favorite LHBS told me that it would need like 6 weeks in primary.

If it stays where it is for the coming weeks, would I want to repitch it with some "stronger" yeast, like wine yeast that could handle 12-13%? I used a Wyeast British Ale propogater and a 1L starter. My concern is that the yeast can't handle the high alcohol content that it's currently at, and has stalled. My bigger concern is that when i prime it, it won't do anything in the bottles and i'll have flat beer.

Thoughts?

(Insert "Sit back, relax, and have a home brew" here, right?)

Yeast was Wyeast British Ale Propagator Pack 1098, 10% tolerance... So I think my concerns are justified... Please help.

It's probably done, I wouldn't try to dry it out anymore because you will want body in a beer that big.

Temperature corrected values:
Original: 1.104
Final: 1.021
Alcohol By Volume: 11.1 %

That yeast says it has a 10% tolerance. Should I be concerned about it not carbing when I prime it???

I'm still a long ways off... I just didn't want to get a month down the road and realize that I should have been doing something now.

Your OG seems really high, which recipe did you use?

The yeast tolerance is a guideline. The beer should carb up as long as it doesn't sit in the secondary forever(if you do one)

It was this recipe, but I ended up giving in, and getting less expensive LME (dented cooper's cans), and used about a pound too many grains, for 8 gallons.

Not going to be a DFH clone lol... but so far it tastes great.

I'll be putting it in the secondary to dry hop for just 2 weeks, then bottling... but it'll be in the primary for at least another month.

Definitely a high OG. It's already got 11%, and hasn't reached 1.010. I figure it'll be almost 12 if it does...

20% over the guideline is what scares me. I have some big money into this batch, and a lot of people looking forward to it. I'd hate to end up with 3 cases of flat beer.

I have a question with yeast/ starter.

I put this into beersmith and it reccommended using two wyeast packs. I have a stirplate arriving shortly. I also will be bottling a 8% dunkel lager with saflager 23-74 or something.

Ok question is will I need to use both packs?
Should I use one and pitch into starter of lager yeast cake?
If so Will the lager yeast produce unwanted flavors?

Thoughts?
Cheers

Anyone?

No.
No.
Yes.

Make a 3QT starter with the stir plate from 1 smack pack.
Don't use the lager yeast.
It won't be the same beer.

See my recipe for the 90 min clone, it's dead on. You can make it with extract, but will have to do a mini-mash with the amber malt and 1lb of 2-row. Put those in a grain bag and add to a pot with a gallon of water. Bring to 150-155*, and hold that temp for 30min. Pull out the grain bag, add however much water to bring you to your pre-boil volume. Replace the 2-row with light extract: 10lbs DME or 12.5lbs LME, and proceed with the recipe as normal from there.

Extract IIPAs sometimes finish high, so pitch a lot of yeast.

Cheers .

Yeh I will be doing the extract version of the all grain recipe. I have my ingredients ready to go just didnt pitch two packs when I needed one. Save my $15 for later