New way to control Pellet Hop gunk!

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Hi, lots of people do, I am on mobile so I can't point out specific posts. I use the same pot but when I went from 15 to 26g I also switched over to plate chillers.

Cool, thanks man.

What size basket do you use on your 26g kettle? Thanks for all the R&D on this, think I'll go with the 300 micron, just want to be sure it is sized right for my kettle.
 
Cool, thanks man.

What size basket do you use on your 26g kettle? Thanks for all the R&D on this, think I'll go with the 300 micron, just want to be sure it is sized right for my kettle.

You are very welcome, this started out as one of my 'science projects' and has worked out well! I use a 6" diameter by 14" long basket in mine and I'm very happy with it. Given your pot I would check the inside diameter of your IC and make sure that will fit, if it won't you can definitely make the basket longer to compensate for a narrower diameter. Chad can also fab you different hangers such that the basket is suspended over the middle of the kettle as opposed to hanging off the side. Let me know if you need additional measurements or pics off of my setup.
 
Welcome as an official vendor Chad!

I'm going to be bottling an IIPA this weekend so in a few weeks I will know how well the hop utilization was (but based on my observations during brewing I think it will be fine.)

Just wanted to mention that I did a small batch yesterday - 3 gallons in my 8 gallon pot. It wasn't a hoppy beer, but I did use an ounce of whole hops and I was concerned that they might not be immersed enough (normally the basket hangs 2" from the bottom.) So I just set it in the bottom of the pot during the boil - and there was a full boil inside the basket. I'm guessing that the frame conducted enough heat up from the bottom of the kettle to keep the wort inside the screen hot enough to do a roiling boil.

Has anyone else tried to just set their basket on the bottom of their pot? Since normally hops just float freely in the boiling wort, why not do this all the time? I don't see where the hops would burn if indeed you get a rolling boil inside the basket. They seem tall enough that they could not tip over.
 
I have tried this several times and it works great every time. I had the same end result as you, the wort boiled right though the basket without any issues.
 
Should these be ordered long enough to sit on the bottom of the kettle, or do you want the bottom of the strainer up a bit to allow boiling wort in? I was thinking of ordering the 4"x10" 300 micron. My kettle is 12" tall, and 16" diameter so I will have room for my 9 1/2" diameter IC.
 
ziggityz said:
Should these be ordered long enough to sit on the bottom of the kettle, or do you want the bottom of the strainer up a bit to allow boiling wort in? I was thinking of ordering the 4"x10" 300 micron. My kettle is 12" tall, and 16" diameter so I will have room for my 9 1/2" diameter IC.

I'm not sure. The folks that boil it on the bottom seem to like the way that it works, mine don't reach the bottom of my kettle and I usually only do full to the brim batches so I haven't had the opportunity to try it out. I don't think it will enhance the outcome any except may cut down on the need to stir in the basket as often due to the bubbles agitating things on their way up.
 
I'm not sure. The folks that boil it on the bottom seem to like the way that it works, mine don't reach the bottom of my kettle and I usually only do full to the brim batches so I haven't had the opportunity to try it out. I don't think it will enhance the outcome any except may cut down on the need to stir in the basket as often due to the bubbles agitating things on their way up.

That is my problem I believe with my spider (paint strainer bag) and my 20g blichmann; its not reaching the bottom. I tried ball bearings but the bag is simply too small. In all reality I do not want the bag to touch for obvious reasons but it hovers about halfway down.
 
I found that if I leave the strainer on the bottom of my kettle, I do get the surge of bubbles agitating the basket, without the need to stir.

I have the bigger 14" on for my kettle, it won't tip if it just floats around freely.

However- I have gotten burned spots in the bottom of my kettle where the basket sits. Hops will settle and clog a bit on the bottom, and if you weight it down, the easiest way for the energy to escape is to take the path of least resistance. You'll trap some wort under it and burn it.

Have had it happen 3 times now, 1st on accident, and the other two I was experimenting.
 
FATC1TY said:
I found that if I leave the strainer on the bottom of my kettle, I do get the surge of bubbles agitating the basket, without the need to stir.

I have the bigger 14" on for my kettle, it won't tip if it just floats around freely.

However- I have gotten burned spots in the bottom of my kettle where the basket sits. Hops will settle and clog a bit on the bottom, and if you weight it down, the easiest way for the energy to escape is to take the path of least resistance. You'll trap some wort under it and burn it.

Have had it happen 3 times now, 1st on accident, and the other two I was experimenting.

That was my original theory for not running it on the bottom and why I chose a shorter design. While it would be nice to not stir I find that stirring vigorously at each hop addition combines the hop pellets and wort into a nice split pea soup of hoppiness that seems to work well. I don't really see a way around burning the wort trapped in the bottom of the basket unless the bottom ring was mesh (which would diminish the strength quite a bit.)
 
15.5 gal keggel do both 5 and 10gallon batches size and price to Iowa chad have used a paint bag spider in the past
 
Here's the Pic's

This is for the Glass Carboys.
looks awesome, chad! question: have you devised a means by which we can use the dry-hopping filter and still seal the carboy, with a bung/cap/etc? first thing that comes to my mind is some sorts of flat metal "clips" that allow the filter to hang inside the carboy, then use a carboy cap like the one below to cover up.

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I'm interested in this to act as an auto siphon filter to help keep fruit and such from clogging the siphon when I rack.
that's an interesting idea. i currently use a hop bag over the end of my racking cane, but this filter should work great for such an application as well.
 
question: have you devised a means by which we can use the dry-hopping filter and still seal the carboy, with a bung/cap/etc? first thing that comes to my mind is some sorts of flat metal "clips" that allow the filter to hang inside the carboy, then use a carboy cap like the one below to cover up.

Why use a clip? As long as the hop spider is tall enough that it fits into the neck of the carboy, you should be good to go. Add the carboy cap you have in your picture (you been taking pix of my caps when we're brewing?) and you should be able to add anything you want during and after the ferment (like fruit, hops, oak chips, etc.).

Another great idea and something I am going to have to consider buying...
 
Why use a clip? As long as the hop spider is tall enough that it fits into the neck of the carboy, you should be good to go. Add the carboy cap you have in your picture (you been taking pix of my caps when we're brewing?) and you should be able to add anything you want during and after the ferment (like fruit, hops, oak chips, etc.).

Another great idea and something I am going to have to consider buying...
lol, no, haven't been sneaking any pix! i have one of my own, thank you very much...

my operating assumption here - and it could be completely wrong - is that you don't want the dry-hopping filter to go all the way to the bottom of the fermenter since this will kick up the trub. so the idea behind the clips was to find some way of "suspending" the filter below the cap but above the trub.

but maybe i'm wrong there, and having the filter hit the trub isn't such a bad idea.
 
Love the hop basket!!! Clean up was a breeze.
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I don't think that would be an issue. I'd pull mine out before cold crashing so any trub that gets kicked up will settle back down quickly.
true indeed, but i'd prefer to leave my dry-hops in there as long as possible before bottling/kegging. if i'm going to cold crash for 48 hours, i want the dry-hops to be in there for those 48 hours. extraction is lower at those temps but it's better than nothing.

i would prefer if we could figure out a system that would allow the filter to sit above the trub while still allowing a seal on the carboy opening. but i haven't tried this thing out yet, maybe my concern is unfounded...
 
Is there a clear consensus 300 vs 400. I use an immersion chiller, and have no immediate plans to move to a counter-flow or plate chiller.
 
i would prefer if we could figure out a system that would allow the filter to sit above the trub while still allowing a seal on the carboy opening. but i haven't tried this thing out yet, maybe my concern is unfounded...

Sanitized unwaxed floss. I just used it the other day to suspend a hopbag in primary off the trub, ran it thru my bung and jammed the airlock in. Ended up tieing the extra floss around the carboy handle around the neck and when i removed the bung and siphoned to keg the hops stayed suspended above trub. the sack swelled so much it wouldnt pass thru the carboy mouth.

Not sure how much these filters weigh? Possibly high test fishing line?
 
ziggityz said:
Is there a clear consensus 300 vs 400. I use an immersion chiller, and have no immediate plans to move to a counter-flow or plate chiller.

I think from reading Marcs test results, the 400 doesn't allow for anymore flow and DOES let more debris into the kettle. That being said, I would assume the 300 would be the way to go.
 
Sanitized unwaxed floss. I just used it the other day to suspend a hopbag in primary off the trub, ran it thru my bung and jammed the airlock in. Ended up tieing the extra floss around the carboy handle around the neck and when i removed the bung and siphoned to keg the hops stayed suspended above trub. the sack swelled so much it wouldnt pass thru the carboy mouth.

Not sure how much these filters weigh? Possibly high test fishing line?

note to self...trademark hop flavored floss
 
Sanitized unwaxed floss. I just used it the other day to suspend a hopbag in primary off the trub, ran it thru my bung and jammed the airlock in. Ended up tieing the extra floss around the carboy handle around the neck and when i removed the bung and siphoned to keg the hops stayed suspended above trub. the sack swelled so much it wouldnt pass thru the carboy mouth.

Not sure how much these filters weigh? Possibly high test fishing line?
brilliant! thanks!
 
Went back to my brewing roots this morning and brewed a 5 gallon extract batch with steeping grains. Found a great use for the 400 micron filter as a grain basket. Will be testing out Chad's new carboy filter in the next week or so after fermentation finishes. The prototype looks good with great quality and arrived is CA in like two days! Will post updates throughout the process.

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He's planning two versions, one that's cheaper with a rubber stopper and one that will have a stainless top. For a prototype I'm impressed, for as small as this thing is it, it can't be easy rolling and welding these.
 
He's planning two versions, one that's cheaper with a rubber stopper and one that will have a stainless top. For a prototype I'm impressed, for as small as this thing is it, it can't be easy rolling and welding these.

Anything with a stopper sized for a Better Bottle, do you know?
 
Anything with a stopper sized for a Better Bottle, do you know?

What are the opening and height measurements of a better bottle? This one might just fit it as is, I think he's trying to come up with as much of a common size as possible but am not sure.
 
I would be interested in one of the carboy filters. That would be great for dry hopping and filtering when siphoning
 
What are the opening and height measurements of a better bottle? This one might just fit it as is, I think he's trying to come up with as much of a common size as possible but am not sure.

19" in height (with bump in the center of the bottom that comes up about an inch and a half)

Opening takes a #10 stopper and is about 1.75 inches (inner diameter).
 
bovineblitz said:
19" in height (with bump in the center of the bottom that comes up about an inch and a half)

Opening takes a #10 stopper and is about 1.75 inches (inner diameter).

This will probably work as is, my Italian 6.5g carboy is 20" tall (from top of hump) and 1" opening. You'd need a tapered stopper but other than that I think it's about 18" long so that it will work for more than just glass carboys. I even think this will work in my small conical too.
 
Idk that I've seen a stopper that can plug both a 1" and a 1.75" hole, plus 18" is probably slightly too long for a better bottle by a half inch or so.

I have one on the way that I going to use in a 6.5 gallon better bottle (doing a citra smash). I'll post my results once I am finished.

Awesome :mug:
 
I have a 6 gallon better bottle and I also have a prototype dry hopper on the way, I will post some pics and measurements once I get it and get the ok from chad.
 
Chad has one on the way to me as well. I can't wait to try it!
I have a Rye IPA that's just about to go into secondary where I'll dry hop using Chad's latest.
 
Man, wish I wasn't out of town when he was offering the prototypes! Sounds like we'll have some good general feedback soon, awesome.
 
Welcome Chad,
It is good to see ya here. I have used my screen and love it. It left little to no hop junk in the kettle. Chad how about one like a funnel for the fermenter, that would be great.
Thanks,
Paul
 
Hey marcb! I was checking out pix in post 584 a page or so back and noticed what looks like a whirlpool device you got piped over the edge of your brew pot. Can you post a few more pix of that? I have all the fittings for a whirlpool but was dreading punching another hole in my pot and didn't like the idea of adding another valve on the outside. What you have there looks like just the ticket!! It would be great to see pix on the outside, how you have it plumbed together, yada yada! Thanks and thanks for pointing us to Chad!

PS - that carboy hop screen looks awesome!
 

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