Beer Engine

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DaleP

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2010
Messages
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Location
Webster Groves
Beer+Engine.jpg


Put together a beer engine, total cost, about $50.00! Get almost a half pint on each pull, tho I need a bigger handle to make pumping easier.
 
Changed the fitting, and cut out the 90 bend in the tubing, looks better. Paint the framework tonight to match the Keezer, brew a 15 gallon batch of bitter tomorrow, can't wait to pour my first draw of cask ale at home!
 
Homebrewers and stoners, you know what they have in common? Both are master craftsmen/mechanics/engineers when is comes to partaking in their hobbies.
 
Here is the parts list.
Bimba cylinder SS-316-DXPW
From McMaster
7768k22 check valve
7768k26 check valve
5272k201 compression fitting
89895k121 ss tubing
Carr Lane Manufacturing
CL-150-TPC-S toggle clamp
I had to drill and tap another hole in the bottom of the cylinder for a check valve, installed both check valves, one for beer in, one for beer out. Bent the tubing to make a nice swan neck, attached to the out check valve with the compression fitting. The other check valve gets a barbed fitting to match the beer line. The frame was some scrap 1.5 inch angle iron welded together to make a c channel, next one will have nice SS c channel bought. The toggle clamp was welded to the cylinder shaft and a 3/8 nut welded to the back side to allow for mounting on the bracket. All in all, took about an hour to build.
 
One of the best things I have ever seen here. Very impressive. To make it, did this all just bolt together, or does it require skillz?
 
I've read that you still should keep CO2 on the keg though. Not enough pressure to carb it or even push the beer. Just to fill the void in the keg so you don't draw a vacuum or pull oxygen in and spoil the beer. I'm no expert though, just what I read somewhere.
 
Pulling in Oxygen is actually a desired result to a certain extent, especially on a commercial scale, and it is on a homebrew scale too, it just means that you want to only have a small vessel (1-1.5gallon) serving this way, so that you drink it in a reasonable time before the oxidation becomes a negative as opposed to a positive for your real ale.

:mug:
 
I am curious how this has worked for you as I am thinking hard about making one. I am having a hard finding the "all stainless" cylinder and am wondering what you think about one with aluminum end caps.
 
Dale,
Do you have any updates on the beer engine? I know this is an old thread, just curious if you have updated it recently and if it is still working.

Thanks,
-G
 
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