I brewed a cream ale recently. It was an extract kit with specialty grains. I steeped grains longer than I should have unintentionally(kids). I think I also used too much water. I tasted a bottle after two weeks and has a bitter aftertaste. I would describe it sharper than a bittering hops taste. I suspect tannins. My question is can tannins be eliminated by bottle conditioning? If not that's fine I can take the bad news. The bitterness isn't that bad to where ill dump them. Any info on this would be helpful. Thanks guys.
Tannins in beer
- Thread starter rynoryan
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flars
Well-Known Member
How long do you think your steep was and what was the max temperature of the steep? Have you tested the pH of your water? Tannin extraction can come from water with a pH of 5.5 and higher.
I steeped for at least 30 mins when directions stated 20 or 25 not sure exactly tho. It called for 1 to 2 gallons of water. I had more like three in there. The temp called for 155 F. I hit the temp dead on and maintained it I'm fairly sure. Thanks for reply man.
It may age out a bit, but not much. One thing that does drop polyphenols (tannin is a polyphenol) is lengthy lagering. That is one reason that lagers are "smoother". You can try putting them someplace very cold for a few weeks to see if that helps, but it really depends on why you have that flavor. If it's hops polyphenols, that will get better but if it's from a too-high mash/steep/water pH, it won't improve much if at all.
I am thinking that it's the latter- that in such a light beer it would easy to have a too-high pH and especially when using tap water. What was the water you used for the batch?
Edit- I replied at the same time you did! Using "spring water" is tough, because you don't know what's in it. I'd try reverse osmosis water, from the big "water machines" at some grocery stores and places like wal-mart, if you're purchasing water. That way you know what is in it (basically nothing) and can add a bit of calcium chloride to it if you want.
I am thinking that it's the latter- that in such a light beer it would easy to have a too-high pH and especially when using tap water. What was the water you used for the batch?
Edit- I replied at the same time you did! Using "spring water" is tough, because you don't know what's in it. I'd try reverse osmosis water, from the big "water machines" at some grocery stores and places like wal-mart, if you're purchasing water. That way you know what is in it (basically nothing) and can add a bit of calcium chloride to it if you want.
Maybe. Usually, for extract brewing it's not a big issue but for these lighter colored beers it can be.
flars
Well-Known Member
I don't hink a few minutes of extra steep time would do it, nor extra water. Temp was far from 170° so that is not a consideration for tannin extraction. To eliminate some of the variables test the pH of the water. Brew stores will have pH testing strips for acid and alkaline solutions.
Was this a kit which had pre-hopped LME?
flars said:
No, not pre-hopped. I added bittering hops at 60 mins if I recall correctly(can't remember what kind). I think I added flavoring hops at 10 minute mark. Sorry I can't be more precise. I didn't start taking notes till after this batch.
flars
Well-Known Member
What is the sanitizer that you are using?
IL1kebeer
Well-Known Member
rynoryan said:
Oxyclean is a cleaning agent, not a sanitizer. Off topic to your initial question but I'd advise you to use a real sanitizer to prevent infections.
flars
Well-Known Member
StarSan is a great no rinse sanitizer. Solution will last for weeks in closed containers as long as the pH remains below 3.2. If the solution turns cloudy don't sweat it. The cloudy look is just from minerals in the water. The pH is the key.
