BIAB Brewing (with pics)

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wormraper said:
ok guys, I'm thinking of going BIAB from all extract for my next brew (queue drums and fanfare)... was going to try the all grain Chinook IPA kit from Northern brewer pre-crushed grains etc... now I only have a 7.5 gallon pot that came with my Bayou burner... do I have enough volume in that pot do do BIAB or should I hold off till I have a bigger pot??? (volume is 10 lbs of 2-row and one pound of carapills)
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Check your local Lowes. They are having some great deals on Bayou Classic stock pots.. yes, aluminum is fine.
 
mtnagel said:
I think I saw something about doing a mash out at 170F with BIAB due to increased efficiency (I think). Are you saying I shouldn't raise the temp for a mash out for 10 mins?
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From what I've read (I may be completely wrong here, maybe mysticmead or someone more experienced than me can chime in) you aren't supposed to raise and hold temps at 170f for mashout.

The proper way to mashout is to raise from mash temps to 170f over a 10 minute period.
 
Antler said:
From what I've read (I may be completely wrong here, maybe mysticmead or someone more experienced than me can chime in) you aren't supposed to raise and hold temps at 170f for mashout.

The proper way to mashout is to raise from mash temps to 170f over a 10 minute period.
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you can raise it slowly to 168-170F and then pull the bag... you can raise it slowly and hold for 10-15 mins...you can raise it quick as well. Going to 168-170F does a couple things. It stops the conversion process and it makes the dissolved sugars less viscous, that in turns helps with the extraction.

Of course, you don't have to do a mash out. There are times when I just don't feel like doing a mash out and if there's a decrease in efficiency it's only 1-2 points.
 
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/biab-why-mashout-309533/

Read this thread above, mash out if you like, don't bother if you like...

I don't bother ususally. Technically speaking it doesnt matter much, some love it, some don't believe in it.

Some very knowledgeable people in the referenced thread consider the mashout "myth busted" regarding higher efficiency and BIAB. cheers!
 
Does anyone steep their specialty grains separately at the end of the mash instead of mashing them with your base malt?
 
TBaGZ said:
Does anyone steep their specialty grains separately at the end of the mash instead of mashing them with your base malt?
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Any particular reason? Some people add dark grains to the end of their mash/sparge if they want color but not as much flavor, and I suppose it's possible to do a partigyle with BIAB (remove bag, don't squeeze, add grains, dunk sparge/soak as "second runnings"), but otherwise I don't see why you would need to.
 
TBaGZ said:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/anyone-else-listen-gordon-strong-podcast-beersmith-332735/

Some people in my HBC were discussing it, and I had started listening to this podcast with Gordon Strong where he talks about steeping. Thought I would see if any BIAB guys did it, and what they thought of it.
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I have heard about (probably on Basic Brewing's podcast) people not putting the darker specialty grains in the mash because they affect pH ... which meant they needed to add stuff to adjust the mash pH and they didn't want to add the extra stuff to their beer.

I haven't experimented with this personally. (I don't make a lot of dark beers right now.)
 
mathin said:
I have heard about (probably on Basic Brewing's podcast) people not putting the darker specialty grains in the mash because they affect pH ... which meant they needed to add stuff to adjust the mash pH and they didn't want to add the extra stuff to their beer.

I haven't experimented with this personally. (I don't make a lot of dark beers right now.)
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+1 on that. I heard Mike "Tasty" McDole discuss this on the Sunday Session. Basically the additional kilning used to darken the grain results in the grain providing few if any fermentables. Added to the fact that heating this dark grains messes with the pH were the reasons that Tasty stated he simply cold steeps his dark grains and then adds in "the tea" after the mash.

Chris
 
Just did my first all grain batch.

Got some 5 gal paint strainer bags from lowes (like everyone seems to) and brewed an English mild. Hit 72% efficiency! Not bad for a first time. Especially since I fscked up my temperatures!
 
ChrisL_ said:
+1 on that. I heard Mike "Tasty" McDole discuss this on the Sunday Session. Basically the additional kilning used to darken the grain results in the grain providing few if any fermentables. Added to the fact that heating this dark grains messes with the pH were the reasons that Tasty stated he simply cold steeps his dark grains and then adds in "the tea" after the mash.

Chris
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Exactly. Really dark, roasted grains are lowering (acidification) mash pH. For some people (with more alkaline water) it's really good :). No need to use crazy additions of various salts or acids just to place your mash in desired pH range-of course when brewing dark beers :)
Also Jamil was mentioning that sometimes he's pulverizing dark/black malts (in coffie grinder, magic bullet etc), just to add it to the mash, before sparging.
 
So I did my first BIAB brew this weekend. Things went reasonably well especially considering I did a 5 gallon batch with a 17 lb grain bill and I also brewed a 10 gal extract batch at the same time.

The only thing is that my BIAB that I had a friend sew from voile fabric, got a few small tears in it. I didn't notice till I went to wash it, so I don't think any grain got in the batch. But I was hoping to reuse this several times before needing another. I do think it may have happened because I used a metal vegetable strainer, that has a metal rod with keychain ring on it - like this one. Of course, now that I search, I see they have ones without that post. Anyway, I already figure for my next batch I will use something else.

So basically I'm asking, how many uses do you normally get out of your BIAB bag?
 
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mtnagel said:
So basically I'm asking, how many uses do you normally get out of your BIAB bag?
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Some voile material is heavier and sturdier than others. A bag properly made with the corrrect material should exhibit almost no wear after proper use, and last a long time, guessing 30 batches or more. I have had people report 30 batches and looking to replace the bag, not because it couldn't be used, but just to replace it cause they thought it was "time".

Of course, sharp edges like a cut keggle that hasn't been properly dressed and smoothed, could damage a bag immediately.

I also wouldn't twist and squeeze a bag like a sumo wrestler.

mtnagel,
I have seen people break off the center post on that type of strainer prior to use for BIAB.
 
I'm up to ~25 uses with my paint strainer bag inner, voile outer. No wear that I can really see, although the voile bag has a slight stain to it and a wonderful smell.
 
mtnagel said:
I do think it may have happened because I used a metal vegetable strainer, that has a metal rod with keychain ring on it - like this one. Of course, now that I search, I see they have ones without that post.
Click to expand...

I think that post is just screwed on and can be removed, at least mine does.
 
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Thanks for the responses. Basically I paid $12.50 for 1 use of 1 bag because my co-worker screwed up the sizing of the first bag and then I ripped the second :(

I'm leaning towards buying one from you wilserbrewer if it will last longer. I guess sometimes it's not worth it to try to save some money.

eulipion2 said:
I usually can get around 10 uses per bag or more, but I've never used a homemade bag.
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Where did you get your bag?
 
wilserbrewer did my bag and I havent had any issues.. its a giant pot too. 20 gallons (and the bag fits over the top edges)

Since it is such a big pot, its hard for me to brew 5 gallons , so we mainly brew larger 10 gallon batches, so each time we BIAB its 20 plus lbs of grain.. I've done it 5 plus times and still looking good.


I'd imagine it'd last a really long time going smaller grain batches... but I like heavy beers
 
I have 40 batches out of my first bag that my wife sewed for me and it's still in great shape and can be used today as if it were a new bag. I also have 10 batches on the bag I got from CustomBIAB.com. It looks just like new and will serve me for many more batches. I do spin and squeeze the bags to get every drop out that I can and it has had no adverse effect on either bag.

you might wonder why I have a second bag if the initial bag my wife made me is still going strong. Simple. my first bag is made to fit my 10 gallon pot, the one from Custombiab.com is made to fit my keggle. I can now 2 do BIAB sessions at the same time :)
 
mtnagel said:
Thanks for the responses. Basically I paid $12.50 for 1 use of 1 bag because my co-worker screwed up the sizing of the first bag and then I ripped the second :(

I'm leaning towards buying one from you wilserbrewer if it will last longer. I guess sometimes it's not worth it to try to save some money.

Where did you get your bag?
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+1 for wilserbrewer bags. I'm on at least 25 uses and no issues. I just rinse out grain then run thru gentle cycle with a scoop of oxyclean after every use. I can't see why it wouldn't last indefinitely.
 
BPhad said:
+1 for wilserbrewer bags. I'm on at least 25 uses and no issues. I just rinse out grain then run thru gentle cycle with a scoop of oxyclean after every use. I can't see why it wouldn't last indefinitely.
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What temperature setting do you wash the bags at? I would have thought that there could be some residue oxyclean left in the fibers of the bags but now with your post I am wanting to give this a try.
 
msa8967 said:
What temperature setting do you wash the bags at? I would have thought that there could be some residue oxyclean left in the fibers of the bags but now with your post I am wanting to give this a try.
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I just toss mine in with any laundry load. No I'll effects here.
 
I got my bag from Jeff 3 years ago. Never put mine in the washing machine, just toss it over the chain-link fence in the backyard and hose it off when I get done brewing. 500+ gallons and it's holding up fine. YMMV.
 
msa8967 said:
What temperature setting do you wash the bags at? I would have thought that there could be some residue oxyclean left in the fibers of the bags but now with your post I am wanting to give this a try.
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Warm wash and rinse. You could even just run it thru with water just to rinse out the sugars. I only use about a tablespoon of oxy.
 
i just wash mine with a hose then soak in sanitizer.. then let it hang dry.. i've never machine wasxhed / dried it..
 
A friend and I brewed a barley wine yesterday. The recipe had 19.5 pounds of grain ... we really didn't want to lift that by hand, so I built a tripod out of 2x4's and hooked up a block and tackle to hoist the bag out of the mash. It worked like a charm.

Getting ready to lift:

image-3888494898.jpg

Draining:


image-4001711939.jpg
 
mathin said:
A friend and I brewed a barley wine yesterday. The recipe had 19.5 pounds of grain ... we really didn't want to lift that by hand, so I built a tripod out of 2x4's and hooked up a block and tackle to hoist the bag out of the mash. It worked like a charm.
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Nice! How big is your pot/bag?
 
The pot is 15 gallons; approximate 18" wide and tall. The bag is big enough for the pot to fit inside.

The brew day went great up until the transfer to the fermenter. First time trying the ball valve and it clogged. Switched to the auto siphon ... it clogged. Had a hell of a time getting the wort into the carboy. Think I'll be investigating the hop spider threads though I wonder how that would work with an immersion chiller (which I usually put in the kettle with 15 minutes to go in the boil). Also may look at some sort of filter on the inside. Have heard mixed things about bazooka tubes.
 
Thanks, and yes, many jokes about squeezing balls were made :)

If anyone is thinking about making a similar contraption and wants to learn from my experience ...

- 10 foot 2x4's are about right lengthwise, at least for the setup I have

- 2 inch holes for the bolt are bigger than you need, but work (I haven't drilled the other end of the 2x4's yet, but I think 1 inch holes will be about right

- Get a cleat to tie off the rope and attach it to one of the 2x4's (I got this right the first time ... I knew sailing experience would come in handy brewing someday)

- this is the block and tackle I bought. Not the highest quality, but the price was right and I don't think I'll need to replace it anytime soon: http://amzn.com/B001BXJVNC

- lift slowly, you may need to adjust the legs to get the bag centered so you don't loose any wort. If you are brewing solo, you'll really appreciate that cleat about now :)

Dan.
 

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