Ok first question of my brewing process

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jakwhite

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I'm converting my shed as my partner has had enough of my barrels on the kitchen side she hates the smell and I've had a few over active ones that have blown my valve and leaked everywhere leading to thousands of ants and flys during the summer months!

Living in England as you can probably imagine our weather is terrible and we are set to have our worst winter in years, I'm planning to get a little heater on a timer to come on for half an hour every 2-3 hours to take off the chill can't have it constant as 1.kill the electric bill
2. Probably kill/cook the rabbit

What do you pros recommend though a heat belt or a heat plate? Or is it work me making a cupboard insulated to try keep it warm from the heater I will have on timed?

All help/advice will be much appreciated
 
Can't you brew outside and ferment indoors? With a little careful planning and the right tools, you could ensure no more mess to upset your SWMBO.

If that is not possible, a insulated cupboard in conjunction with a heat belt or plate sounds like a dandy plan. I remember English winter temperatures as fairly unsuitable for fermenting outdoors.
 
If you've got a root cellar, it will be warmer than a shed. The shed will fluctuate temps every 24 hours so it's not that great even with a heating element. A basement will be more steady.
 
Swmbo? Stupid woman making brewing observations? Best I could come up with,

The only problem is now we have altered the kitchen I've no room either otherwise fermenting inside would of been ideal as I caould keep a close eye on it, and now her daughter is back living with us we have lost our spare room usage!

I'd love to have a basement but only a handful of old British houses now have them and the government had a big scheme to fill half of them in "saves energy bills" although heat rises!

What if I insulated the shed slightly that way they temperature shouldn't fluctuate that much if I had the heater on every 40 mins for ten mins then in the morning for an hour evening for 45 mins to give it one good boost of heat and then top it up regular with the intermittent periods?

In my browsing if the other threads I've read people talking heating controls are they for heated kegs? Or belts and plates etc?
 
Ok I've just done abit of research on the star, definitely something I'm going to do,

does anybody know of one that doesn't have a cool source as I wouldn't I would just be using the heat source to heat up the room as its a shed it may or may not drop quiet quickly, so if I used the heat only it would cut off at say 21c and the heat would escape on its own bringing the stat to 18 kicking it back in again? Is my theory right?
My thinking being having a fan on to cool the shed down will kill the electricity bill but also be pointless as the shed will cool itself down itself anyway,
 
Get a tub bigger than your fermenter and put water in it. Set the fermenter in there making sure the level of the water isn't so high that your fermenter would tip over and then add an aquarium heater. If necessary, wrap the whole thing in a blanket to help hold in the heat or make a fermentation chamber that is insulated. If you control the temperature so the beer ferments toward the lower end of the yeast's preferred temperature it isn't as likely to spill over as the yeast work slower and the beer will be better.
 
jakwhite said:

She Who Must Be Obeyed ;-)

I started this reply half an hour ago and got interrupted. Bloody work. Chances are someone's already enlightened you.
 
Ahh I like my theory on what it meant aswell :p lol


To use an aquarium heater does that need to cut on or off? Or dies it keep the water around the tank at a constant temp?

I like that idea but when I've changed it into my barrel does it still need to be kept at the same temp? Or can it be left to cool as it wants?
 
You are going to have a heck of a time keeping a constant temp without some sort of insulation. Lots of us use old refrigerators or freezers. You put a heating element inside and then you can control heating or cooling with an external temperature controller.

A heating belt on a fermenter in an uninsulated shed probably isn't going to be able to maintain brewing temps when the ambient temps drop near freezing.
 
+1 to what billl said - That shed, unless heavily insulated, is not going to stay warm at all in the winter.

That said, however you choose to proceed, do not arbitrarily attempt to keep your ambient temperature at 20C! For most ale yeasts, that's actually going to be too warm, and will lead to estery fermentations (you'll typically get some fruity flavors in your beers). Instead, pay attention to the yeasts you're using. Every yeast strain has a temperature range that it likes to ferment at. And every fermentation creates heat - so for the first few days of active fermentation, the fermenter will actually be 5-10 degrees warmer than the ambient temperature. So, if a given yeast, say S-04, likes temperatures around 18C, you'll want to keep the ambient temperature closer to 13C during the most active stages of fermentation, then raise it back up to 18C as fermentation starts to calm down. Better yet, if you have a temperature controller with a probe, just attach that probe to your fermenter and set the temperature to 18C, and just let the temperature controller do all the work for you! Keeping the temperature controlled like this will tend to help avoid those messy blow-offs too.
 
billl said:
You are going to have a heck of a time keeping a constant temp without some sort of insulation. Lots of us use old refrigerators or freezers. You put a heating element inside and then you can control heating or cooling with an external temperature controller.

A heating belt on a fermenter in an uninsulated shed probably isn't going to be able to maintain brewing temps when the ambient temps drop near freezing.

That's what I'm worried about, well I've been doing some research, I think I'm either going to go 1 of 2 ways,

1. Get the arc 1000 with a wall mounted heater and I already have an industrial heat lamp that is used to dry domestic dwellings after flood damage, so if I put that on a timer and set it to come on every hour for ten mins this should keep the chill off the shed then use the stc 1000 with a wall mounted heater to keep the shed above 18c, wich will kick in as a back up until the big rad kicks in again, and insulate as much of the shed as possible, it is only for 3 weeks of the fermenting process so the bill may not be too bad, aswell as insulating the shed as much as poss,

2, build a cupboard that will be well insulated with either the stc1000 or a heat belt / pad inside it,

I watched a vid of somebody using an old fridge with the heat pad in it with the stc1000 and the fridge plugged into the cooling side, I'm not sure if I can afford a fridge but think it may be worth having a look?
 
stratslinger said:
+1 to what billl said - That shed, unless heavily insulated, is not going to stay warm at all in the winter.

That said, however you choose to proceed, do not arbitrarily attempt to keep your ambient temperature at 20C! For most ale yeasts, that's actually going to be too warm, and will lead to estery fermentations (you'll typically get some fruity flavors in your beers). Instead, pay attention to the yeasts you're using. Every yeast strain has a temperature range that it likes to ferment at. And every fermentation creates heat - so for the first few days of active fermentation, the fermenter will actually be 5-10 degrees warmer than the ambient temperature. So, if a given yeast, say S-04, likes temperatures around 18C, you'll want to keep the ambient temperature closer to 13C during the most active stages of fermentation, then raise it back up to 18C as fermentation starts to calm down. Better yet, if you have a temperature controller with a probe, just attach that probe to your fermenter and set the temperature to 18C, and just let the temperature controller do all the work for you! Keeping the temperature controlled like this will tend to help avoid those messy blow-offs too.

So for instance if I built a box with a door on, well insulated eg 0.5" kingspan (used to insulate roofs and walls) sat my fermentor on a head pad inside and set the temp to what you said to, would that be more reliable? It would be easier than trying to heat the entire shed, at least then with the probe inside the box the stc will have a rather specific reading and the boxing should maintain a constant temp?

Would you agree?
 
I put jackets and fleece vests on my fermenters when its cold. Just a few weeks ago, my fermenter was wearing a fleece vest and two jackets. You could also try sleeping bags or other things like that. Those with a heat pad underneath in the insulated box would be pretty good. It would take way less heat as well. Insulated box, covered with blankets, inside the fermenter on a heat pad wearing a couple jackets.... Your problem will be it getting too hot!

You could also sleep outside and cuddle it the whole night. :)
 
HopZombie99 said:
I put jackets and fleece vests on my fermenters when its cold. Just a few weeks ago, my fermenter was wearing a fleece vest and two jackets. You could also try sleeping bags or other things like that. Those with a heat pad underneath in the insulated box would be pretty good. It would take way less heat as well. Insulated box, covered with blankets, inside the fermenter on a heat pad wearing a couple jackets.... Your problem will be it getting too hot!

You could also sleep outside and cuddle it the whole night. :)

Haha well my girlfriend moans I don't cuddle / give her enough attention, imagine the reaction when I'm cuddling my brew all night,

Well with the stc-1000 it shouldn't get too hot as it would cut the heat pad off when the box is upto temp, cut back in if it drops below 3 degrees what I set it to, so theoretically once it's upto say 18c the pad will turn off the box should if insulated well enough remain at 18 for a while then it will drop down to say 15c then kick back in until 18c is reached again

Like I said theoretically! I have seen a fridge for £20 it may be worth me looking at the sizes wether I can fit it into my shed, if it fits snug ill use that as the box then in the summer as a fridge for it still connected to the stc 1000 but obv with our summers I will rarely need it!!

If its too big I can't afford to re arrange the shed,

£20 on fridge £14 on an stc-1000 £4 on 2 sockets, £20 on a heat pad/ belt, the girlfriend will kill me with 3 weeks to Xmas!!

Wish I was in America where the weathers decent and the garages are big and a big freezer doesn't cost an arm and a leg to turn into a kegerator
 
Ok just been to the shed to have a measure up, I have a 700mm gap under my counter, perfect for a fridge I'm waiting for a guy to get back to me if he still has his old fridge for £20 as I have just been to b&q (uks DIY store chain) and priced up. Some wood, insulated polystyrene, and 2x2 for framework and it came to £50 just for materials for a box that's without hinges and catches etc,

Quick question though, won't the fridge stink if I put it on heat?

Atleast this way the fridge is insulated and will keep the heat in, I can keep my 2nd phase barrel in it during the summer, and when I get really into it I'm 50% closer to making a keezer!
 
I once saw a setup where he mounted a normal 75W light bulb in a metal paint can, hooked it up to a thermostat, and sat that on the floor of his fridge to heat the chamber up. Light makes can hot, radiates out from there. He claimed it could move the temp up a good 5 degrees in 30 minutes.
 
Ok just been to the shed to have a measure up, I have a 700mm gap under my counter, perfect for a fridge I'm waiting for a guy to get back to me if he still has his old fridge for £20 as I have just been to b&q (uks DIY store chain) and priced up. Some wood, insulated polystyrene, and 2x2 for framework and it came to £50 just for materials for a box that's without hinges and catches etc,

Quick question though, won't the fridge stink if I put it on heat?

Atleast this way the fridge is insulated and will keep the heat in, I can keep my 2nd phase barrel in it during the summer, and when I get really into it I'm 50% closer to making a keezer!

So long as you give it a good, thorough cleaning before you do anything with it, why should a fridge heated to 18C or so stink? Make sure that, if it's an upright fridge, you've got room to place it in an upright position! Fridge compressors don't tend to like to work in any other position.

Also, what you described for the insulated box is fairly close to what I've got for my fermentation chamber, except I went with more insulation. It's framed out with 1x3's sideways (so there's a 1.5" frame depth) with 1.5" rigid insulation in the gaps between frame members, and then another layer of foil backed rigid insulation inside that, for a total of 3" of insulation. Possibly overkill in my basement, but for an outdoor space like you're describing, even inside a (probably drafty) old shed I wouldn't go any less (I think it comes to a total R value of 11, if I recall - maybe a touch lower).
 
stratslinger said:
So long as you give it a good, thorough cleaning before you do anything with it, why should a fridge heated to 18C or so stink? Make sure that, if it's an upright fridge, you've got room to place it in an upright position! Fridge compressors don't tend to like to work in any other position.

Also, what you described for the insulated box is fairly close to what I've got for my fermentation chamber, except I went with more insulation. It's framed out with 1x3's sideways (so there's a 1.5" frame depth) with 1.5" rigid insulation in the gaps between frame members, and then another layer of foil backed rigid insulation inside that, for a total of 3" of insulation. Possibly overkill in my basement, but for an outdoor space like you're describing, even inside a (probably drafty) old shed I wouldn't go any less (I think it comes to a total R value of 11, if I recall - maybe a touch lower).

Well I used to do house restoration fire & flood, 1 thing I was always taught was to tape the fridge shut to stop it opening as the smell is terrible and a few times a whiffed it myself, even when the fridge is empty it starts to smell, I may try and find a brand new one but with Christmas around the corner I'm not sure, I really wanted to get a brew on for the new year,

I've just changed jobs and I get back about 3 am this morning it was minus 4 I went into the shed and yes it was cold but not as cold as I thought it would be,

The fridge would be stood up correct, I'm going to try source I reasonably cheep one and probably get set up mid December,

I want to really get into brewing doing it from scratch like mashing etc
 
Well I used to do house restoration fire & flood, 1 thing I was always taught was to tape the fridge shut to stop it opening as the smell is terrible and a few times a whiffed it myself, even when the fridge is empty it starts to smell

That makes sense - for a fridge that's been used and simply emptied. But if you take the time to remove _everything_ and scrub it all down with a mild bleach solution, there won't be anything left behind to stink. Trust me - there are plenty of us that use freezers or refrigerators (either using them outright, or built into our fermentation chambers) at these temperatures and don't have any problems with stink. You just have to clean them out thoroughly up front. Not really a big deal.

The fridge that provides the cooling in my fermentation chamber came from my mother in law's chicken farm, for a point of reference. If anything should stink, that should. And it doesn't. :mug:
 
stratslinger said:
That makes sense - for a fridge that's been used and simply emptied. But if you take the time to remove _everything_ and scrub it all down with a mild bleach solution, there won't be anything left behind to stink. Trust me - there are plenty of us that use freezers or refrigerators (either using them outright, or built into our fermentation chambers) at these temperatures and don't have any problems with stink. You just have to clean them out thoroughly up front. Not really a big deal.

The fridge that provides the cooling in my fermentation chamber came from my mother in law's chicken farm, for a point of reference. If anything should stink, that should. And it doesn't. :mug:

Yes I suppose you all do, with plenty of airating all in one spray some gloves and a lil bleach I don't think it would matter too much

Well the guy with the fridge for £20 has sold it I've priced a new one cheapest is £120 not good! My friend at work suggested (not sure how it works in US) but all our old fridges freezers etc have to be taken to the tip (garbage disposal plant) so they take the insides out due to the ammonia inside, she said I should phone them and see if I can a have one or even better have one without the fridge insides and just use it as a thermal box, then in the new year keep an eye out for a cheap fridge ready for the summer/keezer time,

I will make a few calls tomorrow as its now 1am and I've just got home from work
 
I have been and brought a small fridge for £5 it doesn't work but this can be my temperature controlled fermenting chamber!

A good clean up and it will be spotless! Got to go to work now though :( busy all weekend, will have to be a Tuesday morning jobby!
 
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