American IPA Stone Ruination Clone

Just made this again with some of my tweaks. To my disappointment my og was only 1.058. 13.5 lbs of two row... was planning on much better efficiency since my run off was so little and full conversion tool place after an iodine test

Got everything prepped to cook up a batch of this today.
Couldn't get Pacman, so I'm using a 3L starter of Wyeast 1056. I've been making some really lightly hopped beers lately... Psyched to get a hop monster on tap.

Did an extract version of this about two months ago. Not much bitterness to it at all. Used 2oz of magnum 12.4% AA @60. I do full boils on a propane burner for better hop utilization. I did one other ipa before that bitterness seemed good so I'm thinking its not my water. Trying to figure it out

so wlp007 or pacman? I thought Stone uses pretty much WLP007 for this one?

Best beer I've made so far. Well done. This is one I will keep for a Long time.

I have a 2 Liter starter of WLP002 (English Ale Yeast) ready to go, but decided to change my brew to an IPA. Would this recipe work with English Ale yeast, or am I better off doing a new starter? (I have Super San Diego available to make a starter, and I could save my English Ale yeast). However, I would prefer to use my existing starter today if possible.

(I have never used WLP002, so not sure what to expect)

Thanks for your input!!

Thanks LA Brewer. I saw mixed responses for using WLP002 with APA on some other forums, so the Stone link puts me at ease!

twalte said:

I have a 2 Liter starter of WLP002 (English Ale Yeast) ready to go, but decided to change my brew to an IPA. Would this recipe work with English Ale yeast, or am I better off doing a new starter? (I have Super San Diego available to make a starter, and I could save my English Ale yeast). However, I would prefer to use my existing starter today if possible.

(I have never used WLP002, so not sure what to expect)

Thanks for your input!!

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My buddy brewed a Ruination clone with Wyeast 1968 (same as WLP 002). The malt and hops were very close, but the yeast character was quite noticeably different between the real thing. I'm a huge Ruination fan and I think 007 is worth it if you want it to be as close as possible.

Planning on brewing this tomorrow, doing a partial boil 3.5 gallons. I'll be following the same hop schedule, and will be using 8 lbs of Dme and the one lb of crystal 20. what should I be looking for as far as og, fg, and ibus? Can't wait for the final product! Thanks for the replies.

4traindays said:

Planning on brewing this tomorrow, doing a partial boil 3.5 gallons. I'll be following the same hop schedule, and will be using 8 lbs of Dme and the one lb of crystal 20. what should I be looking for as far as og, fg, and ibus? Can't wait for the final product! Thanks for the replies.

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It's at the top of the recipe

Original Gravity: 1.077
Final Gravity: 1.013
IBU: 103+

4traindays said:

Planning on brewing this tomorrow, doing a partial boil 3.5 gallons. I'll be following the same hop schedule, and will be using 8 lbs of Dme and the one lb of crystal 20. what should I be looking for as far as og, fg, and ibus? Can't wait for the final product! Thanks for the replies.

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Don't use 1lb of crystal. .5 lb at most of Crystal 15. 1.071 og and minimal of 1.012 fg. Cheers

I just finished my first brew ever today. Used this recipe (did 8lbs light DME with 1lb Crystal in steep). It came out much darker than I thought it would. Does it lighten up as it ferments or did I do something wrong? I got an OG of 1.075 so thats pretty good news so far for my first brew. I hope my starter worked well. Thanks!

Edit: Whoops, wrong thread!

I'm looking at making a Ruination clone as my fourth batch, which will be my first time not using a kit.

Originally I was going to use the recipe direct from Stone in the BYO article: http://www.stonebrew.com/news/081201/ . However, putting this into various recipe calculators (and my own math) show an OG of only 1.069 (63 p/p/g from the light DME, another 5.8 p/p/g from the steeped grains at 40% efficiency) while Stone claims an OG of 1.072.

Now, I'm trying to figure out where the 3 p/p/g difference is at. Stone says to steep the grains at 149 degrees F for 45 mins... does the 45 min steep yield a higher efficiency? If so, would it be enough to raise the steeping efficiency to 65% (what I calculate would be needed to achieve an OG of 1.072)?

Also, this is the first place that I've read (from Yooper) that splitting the extract additions increases hop utilization (I guess it really reduces loss). How effective is this? Meaning, does splitting the extract additions to match the ratio of boil water to top off water yield a hop utilization anywhere close to that of doing a full boil?

Brewed yesterday, used 8 lbs Dme, got an of of 1.060. Wondering why is lower than expected?

4traindays said:

Brewed yesterday, used 8 lbs Dme, got an of of 1.060. Wondering why is lower than expected?

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How much wort did you end up with?? More than 5 gallons?

I do partial boils, then top off. Boiled 3.5 gallons then topped off to 5 in my primary. The recipe I used called for a 2.5 gallon boil, would my boiling 3.5 be the cause of the OG being lower than stated in the recipe? If so what adjustments should I make to the recipe to compensate for a lower og? I try to boil as much water as possible for the hop utilization, but if this reduces expected gravity, should I only boil 2.5? Thanks.

8 lbs of DME at 45 p/p/g, for 5 gallons = 1.072 OG. Boil size won't impact OG. Did you steep 1lb of Crystal 20L also? That could add another 4.5 points of gravity.

Without the crystal malt factored in, the only way an OG of 1.060 makes sense is if you finished with 6 gallons of wort, or used LME and finished with 5 gallons.

I'm not saying you did either of those, just that's how it mathematically equates to 1.060.

How well did you mix the top off water into the boiled wort?

Oh, and you are correct to boil as much as you can for hop utilization.

I would bet that your beer needs to blend. Water and wort are two different densities and may not have mixed well. If you are sure you topped off to 5 Gallons and not more, it is probably higher than your reading.

4traindays said:

I do partial boils, then top off. Boiled 3.5 gallons then topped off to 5 in my primary. The recipe I used called for a 2.5 gallon boil, would my boiling 3.5 be the cause of the OG being lower than stated in the recipe? If so what adjustments should I make to the recipe to compensate for a lower og? I try to boil as much water as possible for the hop utilization, but if this reduces expected gravity, should I only boil 2.5? Thanks.

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Hmm, I did my first brew with this recipe and I got 1.075 (1.074 then correcting for the temperature of 70F up to 1.075). I did do a full boil, however (6 gallons boiled down to ~5 gallons with 8lbs of light DME and 1lb of Crystal Malt steeped).

And as to my previous question about the beer being darker than I expected, it lightened up after the first day or so. Also, I got a ton of fermentation for the first 2 days or so but it slowed down really quickly, is that normal?

Thanks for the replies. Is there anyway that I could end up with a gravity of 1.060 if I indeed used 8 lbs Dme and 1 lb crystal 40 which I steeped for 35-40 mins? Maybe I just didn't mix my wort well enough before I measured like previously stated. I couldn't believe my hydrometers reading when it stayed at 1.060!

Just got my stuff to make the BYO version. I got a question though. The AG version calls for a 90 min boil. The extract for a 60. Why??? ESP considering the hops.

Thanks!

So I had a question about the original recipe posted. For extract, is the late DME addition for a partial boil only? I did a full boil (6 gallons of water), steeped the crystal malt for 30 minutes and added all 8lbs of DME at boil. After racking to the secondary, it tasted a lot sweeter than I was expecting. Is this because I added all the DME at once or will it even out over time? Thanks.

As a newbie I'll try to answer, I think the reason for the late edition is to help keep the color lighter. Extract brews tend to be darker the AG.

The sweetness will go away as the yeasties chew on the sugars.

thejuanald said:

So I had a question about the original recipe posted. For extract, is the late DME addition for a partial boil only? I did a full boil (6 gallons of water), steeped the crystal malt for 30 minutes and added all 8lbs of DME at boil. After racking to the secondary, it tasted a lot sweeter than I was expecting. Is this because I added all the DME at once or will it even out over time? Thanks.

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I did the same thing as you when I made this. Ifull boil all extract added in the beginning. I was disappointed with the bitterness level. It wasn't very bitter at all. Ive heard you will get better hop utilization with splitting the extract.

A full boil with all the extract added at the beginning should still result in over 100 IBUs. Orangemen5, what was your FG, and what yeast did you use?

VampireSix said:

A full boil with all the extract added at the beginning should still result in over 100 IBUs. Orangemen5, what was your FG, and what yeast did you use?

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I wasn't aware of this. My OG 1.074 FG 1.018. 1 pack of rehydrated us-05. I'm in the process of getting my water analyzed to eliminated that aspect. It's still a very good beer just not bitter As i would like. But I've never had a beer that was to bitter for my liking.

Based on the 16+ pages of this thread that I read, this seems like a great recipe, and I plan to try it this weekend.

Question: the BYO Stone recipe lists the dry-hop addition as 22 oz. of whole hops, but the recipe on this thread lists 2 oz. Is the BYO Stone amount a typo? That's like 10 times the amount of hops difference between the two....

stricklandia said:

Based on the 16+ pages of this thread that I read, this seems like a great recipe, and I plan to try it this weekend.

Question: the BYO Stone recipe lists the dry-hop addition as 22 oz. of whole hops, but the recipe on this thread lists 2 oz. Is the BYO Stone amount a typo? That's like 10 times the amount of hops difference between the two....

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Has to be a typo. Even if it weren't, I'm not wasting tens of dollars on an overkill dryhop

Tried again tonight after almost 4weeks aging. Really good! Although, I'm not quite sure if its as hoppy as ruination, but I think it's awesome beer regardless!

Putting this on the calendar for two weeks from now. Or maybe this weekend. Really looking forward to a hoppy bastard, and I have almost everything for this one.

I don't have any Magnum, as I didn't plan my bulk hop buy for IPAs. My bad. For bittering, I have a full lb of Newport 16.3% AA or most of a lb of CTZ 17.5% AA.

Brew365 seems to think Newport would be a better sub. Searched the thread, and nobody's tried it. Anybody think it would turn out OK?

Thanks Yoop.


Edit: Nevermind. Looks like the recipe at Stone was changed to Columbus/Centennial some time ago. Looks like I fell in love with Ruination after the change was made, so I think I'll just go with the Columbus instead of the Magnum and forget the Newport. Looks like I have to drop the Columbus down to 1.5 oz (@ 17.5% AA) to keep around 118 IBU as the original recipe did.

I brewed my own spin on this 4 days ago.

Bittered with Columbus. Then a mix of Columbus and Centennial at 10 and again through a hop back on the way to the chiller. Planning on dry hopping heavy with centennial and a little Columbus.

I used WLP007 and it appears to have fermented out in 3 days with a 1.072 OG.

Some of the guys over at NB think that this recipe was brewed at Stone with WLP 007. So, I think you have a pretty fair clone, until you dry hop with Columbus that is.

Yeah I'm still a little undecided on the Columbus for dry hop. I'm thinking only .5oz and 3-3.5oz of centennial.

Brewed Yooper's version up yesterday for a friend. My laundry room smells super hoppy! Should be ready for Easter!!! OG 1.07. Us 05 for yeast.

Just did a batch of this today. Bittered with Columbus and hopbursted with an extra ounce centennial at flame out. Made a starter of pac man and it'll hopefully kick off tonight.

Did this one before with WL002 and it was superb if anyone was interested.

Just did a side by side with the real deal. Stone on left, Wlp007 in middle and wlp001 on right. More astringency from
from the stone. Wlp007 is definally the closest commercial yeast to stones house yeast. Just needs filtered and by the way stick with C15-20 if you want the color.

Brewing this up in a few hours. Very excited. I haven't tasted this recipe yet, but I went out and bought a Ruination bomber to remind me. Your post just reminded me of that.

I'd like to tweak it to up the sweetness and color just a little from the commercial version. Should I sub for a darker Crystal, add some darker Crystal, add Carapils, or something else entirely?

thadius856 said:

Brewing this up in a few hours. Very excited. I haven't tasted this recipe yet, but I went out and bought a Ruination bomber to remind me. Your post just reminded me of that.

I'd like to tweak it to up the sweetness and color just a little from the commercial version. Should I sub for a darker Crystal, add some darker Crystal, add Carapils, or something else entirely?

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Use max 5% crystal of total grist. I like a more maltier ipa and I add 10% Munich malt. Mash at 150-152 to achieve the body character. No carapils. To answer your question you can add darker and more crystal malts to suit your own character, but in my opinion that isnt the style of a ipa.

Sampled mine yesterday after 1 wk. primary finished at 1.012. Tasted great!