Single tier scultpure pictures, please!

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Cheesefood

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I would like to build a singel tier sculpture for my set up and use my pump instead of gravity. Can any of you show me pictures of set ups you've built? I'm going to go with a double-burner system with a cooler in the middle

Thanks for the help.
 
Hey Cheesefood. I'm not sure who gave me this link, but there are quite a few single tier sculptures. I'm aslo getting ready to build my single tier sculpture. There are some pretty sweet ones, and some more economical ones too.

Brewhalla


Keep up posted on your sculpture, I'd like to see what you come up with.:ban:
 
Here is a single tier that looks like it was made without welding. A Brutus Ten type clone.

DSCN0134r.jpg


His web site.
 
Bobby_M said:
Probably about 10x the cost. Unistrut is not cheap at all and neither are the fittings.

I see 8 ball valves. Those are about $10-$12 each. Probably close to $200 in plumbing alone. 2 pumps ($100+ each) . So let's say that his comes in close to a grand.
 
Cheese... He's asking about the stand structure itself. That erector set looking stuff is called Unistrut. It's main usage is supporting pipes and conduit in industrial settings. They have all kinds of shapes like angles, U, and boxed sections. Then they sell all kind of connectors like angles, crosses, tees, etc along with the bolts to hold it all together. It's inevitable that anyone that makes hobby type things with Unistrut, you'll find that they work in some industry that uses it a lot and some of it walks off the job. No one in their right mind would buy it at retail price for this kind of project.

And you're right.. hard plumbing is crazy and expensive. I'd at least have a short section of hi temp hose as a stress relief connecting each vessel to the bird's nest manifold. You need a frickin degree in boolean logic to set all the valves per function.
 
Bobby_M said:
Cheese... He's asking about the stand structure itself. That erector set looking stuff is called Unistrut. It's main usage is supporting pipes and conduit in industrial settings. They have all kinds of shapes like angles, U, and boxed sections. Then they sell all kind of connectors like angles, crosses, tees, etc along with the bolts to hold it all together. It's inevitable that anyone that makes hobby type things with Unistrut, you'll find that they work in some industry that uses it a lot and some of it walks off the job. No one in their right mind would buy it at retail price for this kind of project.

And you're right.. hard plumbing is crazy and expensive. I'd at least have a short section of hi temp hose as a stress relief connecting each vessel to the bird's nest manifold. You need a frickin degree in boolean logic to set all the valves per function.

Got it, thanks. I figure he's a plumber or something. Just look at how well thought out his hard-plumbing is: he knew to put cleanouts (flush-outs?) in various places.
 
Cheese, I have a welder that I we can probably get to put stuff together cheap - he LOVES good beer and the barter system. Let's work on something that we want and get him to make two for us.
 
rdwj said:
Cheese, I have a welder that I we can probably get to put stuff together cheap - he LOVES good beer and the barter system. Let's work on something that we want and get him to make two for us.

Freakin' sweet. I just want a basic cart with enough room for either two pots and an cooler in the middle (with shielding to prevent it from being melted) or three keggles (I might swap my cooler for a keg MLT eventually). I want it to have wheels and I want the burners built in.

Perhaps the middle tier could be raised to protect the MLT from heat. I can figure out the plumbing / gas lines on my own (or with help).
 
Cheesefood said:
Got it, thanks. I figure he's a plumber or something. Just look at how well thought out his hard-plumbing is: he knew to put cleanouts (flush-outs?) in various places.


I see the rigid-plumbed inline pumps as a strictly clean-in-place type set-up-I definitely want to be able to remove my tuns for cleaning/whatever. The inevitable movement of the tuns and temp changes scare me about hard lining all the plumbing to the tuns...It doesn't seem like he'd need to be a plumber to come up with this system- the valves are simply placed as tun outlets with a direct-drain in each drop before the pump. After the pump come the flow restricting valves-basic and simple. I would prefer to use hose, and QD's...

BobbyM, the 'logic' type valve system comes only with recirculating systems-I ain't headed there, at least not yet...

As for the uni-strut, it also comes with a green painted coating, but the cadmium coated stuff he used would be more rust resistant-and pricey. A smart employee would buy at cost from the employer saving on mark-up and, most likely, taxes. I may be missing something in his Page pics, but it seems to be only bolts, the obligatory uni-strut 'nuts' (flat stock with threaded holes that will span the gap of the uni-strut), and tabs; 90* and flat, to connect pieces to each other.

For some, cost is not a hindrance-but ability is.
 
Henry Hill said:
I see the rigid-plumbed inline pumps as a strictly clean-in-place type set-up-I definitely want to be able to remove my tuns for cleaning/whatever.
It looks to me like those tuns are connected with fittings that allow for easy removal. The worst thing I see is metal. A bit of insulation on the tuns and piping would be nice, but I'm an efficiency freak...
 
mr x said:
It looks to me like those tuns are connected with fittings that allow for easy removal. The worst thing I see is metal. A bit of insulation on the tuns and piping would be nice, but I'm an efficiency freak...

Yup, saw the unions on the MLT and BK, I just left out 'easily and quickly' in my post. And yet, there is no union on the outlet of the HLT, or between the MLT and BK.

To me, 'quick and easily' is QD's, not large crescent wrench... :)

Unions are great for a water softener or water heater that you may have to replace every 5-10 years...

Were I plumbing a barrel or multi-barrel system, it would be hard plumbed, the vessels would be firmly anchored and I would be doing C.I.P.

For 5 to 10 gallons, I see KISS, and make it modular.
 
I see compression fittings on all the tanks. Looks pretty easy to break that down. But I'm an instrument mechanic and it's second nature to me.
 
Here is my Monster. I am still refining it. There are so many things to add on once you get the main points covered.

P7211478.jpg
 
Bobby_M said:
...You need a frickin degree in boolean logic to set all the valves per function.

NAW, they make sense. Here's a few pics of mine. Just went out to the garage and snapped them with my cell phone. Oh yeah, and the pump isn't connected with hard pipe, there are silicone tubing sections to and from it. I just diddn't want to drop something and snap the head of my pump... I just know my luck and that kind of crap just seems to happen to me. hehehe





 
Grimsawyer said:
Oh yeah, and the pump isn't connected with hard pipe, there are silicone tubing sections to and from it. I just didn't want to drop something and snap the head of my pump... I just know my luck and that kind of crap just seems to happen to me. hehehe


EXACTLY! ;)
 
Got it, thanks. I figure he's a plumber or something. Just look at how well thought out his hard-plumbing is: he knew to put cleanouts (flush-outs?) in various places.

In the RV world those are called low point drains. DK about resi/industrial plumbing...
 
Hey Chimone, do you have any trouble with air flow to your burners with that setup?

My single-tier WIP is built from 3" angle steel - massive overkill, but I had a bunch of it available, so figured 'why not?' One drawback that I hadn't considered was that having the top squares roughly the same outer dimensions as the other Brutus clones but 3" wide means that the bottom ring of a keggle completely seals the hole - no gaps on the corners at all.

Without the ability to draw air from the top, the burners don't behave well. Even lowering the burners quite a bit below the frame, they only burn normally for a few minutes, then the individual blue flames vanish and are replaced by a vague blue-orange cloud of flame. This plasma ball floats around silently in the gap under the keggle for a couple minutes, looking like a terrible Evil Space Overlord special effect from the original Star Trek. Eventually, it gets bored and wanders over to the burner intake to try out its Space Shuttle booster rocket impression. Interesting as that is, I'm getting ready to make some changes to the design, though I haven't decided whether to just cut the hole wider or to add some 1/4" stainless plates to the top, with gaps between them.

I noticed in your stand pic, and some other close-ups from your gallery, that there's very little space in the corners once you added the rings to hold the kegs. Have you noticed any similar problems with draw at certain burner heights, or with a bit of wind?
 
nope, works almost too well now. I have to run them barely open and its plenty of heat. Wind, well it can only handle a little bit.....but if it really starts to gust it doesnt work for ****
 
Here is a picture of my single tier HERMS system.
Boil kettle on the left. HLT in the middle. MLT on the right.
Sight glass inbetween HLT and MLT to monitor the mash as it exits the HERMS coil during recirculation.
Sight tubes on the BK and HLT to indicate volume levels.
Fully plumbed with copper and stainless connections via tri clover fittings.
Built in oxygen tank and stone that are used as the wort exits the counter flow chiller.
BK and HLT are direct fired. The MLT on the right is not. Mash temperature is achieved via the HERMS.
Bypass valve on the HERMS coil in case temp starts to get a little warm during the mash.
One March 809HS pump.

You can look through the build here:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/561165364HPFuOl

2947197180058020267S600x600Q85.jpg
 
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