diy ball valve

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macr023

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macr023
I am in the process of installing a ball valve on my PP bucket.

I understand there are a lot of places online that sell kits, but I strongly believe in supporting local business. Also I like the idea of outsourcing locally.

Here are two pictures of what I have setup so far.

v1.jpg


This is how I want to mount it.

Valve | washer | bucket wall | o-ring | washer | reducer

v2.jpg



My concern is the seal between the inside washer and reducer. I noticed some kits you buy online are setup similarly, I just want to confirm if this looks ok. The surface of the reducer where it comes into contact of the washer is machined nice and flat.

Another option I was thinking of is just get a snug fit o-ring, place it on the reducer, slide it through the bucket wall from inside to out, and then from outside have valve | washer

The reason for using inside and outside washers is for reinforcement as the bucket wall is plastic (polypropylene) It gets a little soft at hotter temps and with a heavy ball valve it can sag a little, i've seen pics / videos online of this.
 
A washer against an o-ring tends to leak pretty easily.
The o-ring will twist and push away from the threads and water will leak past the washer rim and out the hole.

A flat gasket would work a little better with that type of setup.

If you can solder the washer to the reducer and then use a flat gasket you will not have any issue.
 
I have not tested with just a washer and a gasket without soldering.

When you add a metal washer and then a seal (gasket or o-ring) they tend not to push around the nipple at the hole so water can seep past the metal washer around its hole and then out the hole in the cooler wall.

Soldering it to the nipple creates a water tight bulkhead.
In our standard kits with a locknut, there is a groove in the locknut that keeps the o-ring seated around the nipple.

There is an entire thread on soldering stainless steel here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/
 
Why not just try it, and see if it leaks? I made all my bulkheads from random crap I bought at Lowes, (not to pull away from Wayne at BF - he's got good stuff, and it probably would have been cheaper in the end to go with him). Sometimes took a bit of trial and error, no two are a like, but none leak now. I have used o-rings, bushings, and flat rubber washers. Typically you can get them to seal with enough fiddling.

One tip - don't crank down too tight on the o-ring. It will definitely bulge out then.
 
I just posted a reply but don't see it, maybe replies with pictures need to be approved by admin, I will try again.

Wayne: Thanks for the help. Can I solder a stainless washer to a brass fitting ?

Also what do you think about this order.

valve | washer | bucket wall | o-ring | reducer

I will have to get a smaller o-ring, but the reducer is pretty much acting as a bulkhead. I just wanted to add the washer for reinforcement, but it seems I can get away with just one side with a washer.

shortyjacobs: I might run the test tonight with washer, either way I think I will be drilling the same size hole to fit the 3/8 brass fitting. I agree with you it would be cheaper getting from online, but not only do I find that I spend too much online and end up not using, there are many little reasons, such as, I am choosing 3/8 size valve because the bucket gets a little soft when heated and 1/2 valves will cause significant sag. Also I am enjoying outsourcing form local stores and supporting local business is always a +. I actually purchased recently from UK ebay three polypropylene taps which the guy advertised usable with watterbutt barrels and kegs etc... since I saw keg I guessed food grade. After receiving them and contacted the manufacturer which was richards & sankey, they claim their taps are not food grade. How ever there is another company that sells identical taps by waddington & duval that are food grade. So in the end I am deciding to try and piece out locally, I like holding my part in hand as I try out different possible fittings.
 
A tight fitting flat gasket between the bucket wall and reducer will seal. The oring MAY work if it doesn't squish out from behind the flange in the reducer. Wayne is right in that you can't put a metal washer against another metal fitting on the wet side of a bulkhead and expect a seal. Liquid goes between them, finds the threads and spirals past all gaskets.
 
So I have the choice of soldering the washer to the fitting and attempt with my existing buna-n o-ring, or use the reducer as a bulkhead with a smaller o-ring/gasket. Since I cannot find silicone gaskets near me (yet), I might try and make my own silicone gasket. I saw a youtube vid where a guy buys a silicone baking sheet and punches out center holes using a small pipe and then uses a washer as a template to cut the outer circle. The sheet is food grade and rated to 450 Fahrenheit.
 
I have access to a torch. As for flux and solder, I will have to purchase. I think I will try with just using the reducer on the wet side with a home made silicone washer. If I see I need more sidewall support, I will try and solder the washer to the fitting.
 
I ended up picking up a silicone baking sheet for 7$. I also picked up a 23 cent copper slip coupler which I used as a punch. I punched 2 holes, and used the washers I had as a template to cut the circumference. I laid them out like this.

valve | washer | bucket wall | silicone gasket | washer | silicone gasket | brass

Well it was working great until the water was getting warmer.

I drained the water and saw that the 2 gaskets were squishing at different times. While one needed more squishing, the other was over squished. I cut the outer part of one gasket to match the hex on the brass fitting. Then I used that alone on the wet side. On the outside I used both washers and gasket, only to maintain thickness to apply pressure on the whole thing. So its now like this

valve | gasket | washer | washer | bucket wall | hex gasket | brass fitting

So far 23 liters (6 gallons) and the water is pretty damn hot now. Still waiting for a boil. BTW I have 2 1500 watt elements in the bucket. This is going to be my HLT/ boiler, well I have another bucket already for dedicated boiler, but they are the same specs. I cannot tell the exact temperature as my home made RTD circuit is in a box and don't feel like wiring it up. Its also on a proto board which makes it more annoying to setup right now. But so far i'm close to boiling and no drips.

I like the idea of using these silicone baking sheets as gaskets. First I can make any size I want, second, food grade and third, can go up to 445 fahrenheit. I have so much left over material, I can now make gaskets for my diy thermal wells and who knows what other diy/ add on I will make.
 
macr023 said:
I ended up picking up a silicone baking sheet for 7$. I also picked up a 23 cent copper slip coupler which I used as a punch. I punched 2 holes, and used the washers I had as a template to cut the circumference. I laid them out like this.

valve | washer | bucket wall | silicone gasket | washer | silicone gasket | brass

Well it was working great until the water was getting warmer.

I drained the water and saw that the 2 gaskets were squishing at different times. While one needed more squishing, the other was over squished. I cut the outer part of one gasket to match the hex on the brass fitting. Then I used that alone on the wet side. On the outside I used both washers and gasket, only to maintain thickness to apply pressure on the whole thing. So its now like this

valve | gasket | washer | washer | bucket wall | hex gasket | brass fitting

So far 23 liters (6 gallons) and the water is pretty damn hot now. Still waiting for a boil. BTW I have 2 1500 watt elements in the bucket. This is going to be my HLT/ boiler, well I have another bucket already for dedicated boiler, but they are the same specs. I cannot tell the exact temperature as my home made RTD circuit is in a box and don't feel like wiring it up. Its also on a proto board which makes it more annoying to setup right now. But so far i'm close to boiling and no drips.

I like the idea of using these silicone baking sheets as gaskets. First I can make any size I want, second, food grade and third, can go up to 445 fahrenheit. I have so much left over material, I can now make gaskets for my diy thermal wells and who knows what other diy/ add on I will make.
Click to expand...

I love the baking sheet idea! I have a couple I don't use that I will be making extra gaskets out of. Thanks! :mug:
 
I can't take credit for the idea as I came across it through searching. It actually was a youtube video where the guy describes very well how to make one. But i'm glad to share.

I will be working on my mash tun and boiler today, so I have to pick up 2 more ball valve assemblies. I will post more pics later today.
 
Sorry the delays, the server that I was hosting my pictures on went offline over the weekend. I have a picture of my new brewstand which I whipped up this weekend. Its a 3 tier gravity fed stand.

brewstand.jpg


I will get 2 more ball valve assemblies this week, then focus on the manifolds for the mash tun and brew kettle. Also I will need to get some insulation for the mash tun. I hope within 2 weeks I Will be doing my first all grain batch.
 

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