So I have my strut, fittings, casters, burners and pump. Still need hoses, fittings etc... I big issue is now what is the best way to cut the strut? I checked some other threads and it looks like people are using chop saws mostly. I was thinking about renting one but now thinking about just taking it to a welding/fabrication shop and having them do it...
Solid strut single tier build
- Thread starter lpdjshaw
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Daves69 said:
If you've got easy access to am affordable shop go ahead and have them do it if you're more comfortable with that option. I bought two $8 disposable chop blades and rented a chop saw from a Home Depot for 4 hours and $10. $26 total and a couple hours to measure and cut everything down to size.
I actually just realized that the company I work for has a Milwaukee Portable Bandsaw and one of my co-workers said he will assist in cutting it on Monday.
This works out perfect since I wont' have to pay any $$ and won't have to worry about the noise with my neighbors etc.. My Job is in a Commercial Complex that is pretty much a ghost town after 5PM, so we are just going to cut them in the back lot. He (co-worker) assures me that the cuts will be straight and not a hack job. We will see, I will post up pics when I get them cut!
noremorse1
Well-Known Member
I am considering doing a build like this and not really concerned about using galvanized as this will be an electric build. HOWEVER... I would only be concerned about the part that is in contact with heat/flame if I were using gas. That would be the top portion of the rig. If you were to replace the top strut channel with stainless, it would increase the total cost by about $180.00 (two 10 foot lengths of stainless strut, and a handful of stainless fittings).
There is no need to make the entire rig stainless if the only concern between stainless and glav is burning off the galvanization and, in turn, toxic fumes and rust.
noremorse1 said:
Valid point but even if you had to replace the top every two years you would not break even until year ten. But then I plan on having a full stainless stand. Most of us use strut to get us brewing now for cheap and plan to upgrade in the future.
Daves69 said:
That's my plan. I have $80 in parts from strutchannelfittings.com and another $75 for 4 strut lengths from Home Depot. I'll likely have to replace the top section once before I can afford to convert to entirely electric so, for my system, strut it is.
noremorse1
Well-Known Member
Wrapping the strut that is exposed to heat/flame in a few layers of tinfoil each brew should extend the life of your stand. Just an idea.
noremorse1 said:
Have you seen the price of tin foil recently? Folks I bought solid strut for aesthetics but if you but the slotted your taking like $15 for a10' section. I must have 50 batches on my current cheap Bass Pro turkey fryers and even that metal is good for another 50 batches.
This stuff lasts and if your that worried about it holding up or dis-coloring then there are other products out there to build your stand out of. A fully stainless mig welded option comes to mind.
Good luck!
elmito said:
Enough to brew a half barrel,
seriously though I did the math and without the center column supports and 5' wide your in the 1,400lb range. Add the center supports and remove the casters and you could achieve around 2,000 would be my guess. This stuff is strong and there are data sheets on the deformation floating around here and on the web.
Awesome, thanks for all the info. I'm trying to put a 30 gallon build together. Looks like I'll have to make it a little wider and deeper than yours. The 30 gallon bayou classics have a bigger base than my current keggles. I think I'll also make one of the top struts longer to mount a control panel.
#1. Did the OP drill hole for the connections then? I don't see any holes, not sure how this was put together if you did not drill holes.
#2. i like the idea of using a SS and Galv. hybrid to save money, but I know some metals do not like to be placed together. Could there be an issue having SS and Galv touch?
#2. i like the idea of using a SS and Galv. hybrid to save money, but I know some metals do not like to be placed together. Could there be an issue having SS and Galv touch?
#1. It's the same connections as what your used to seeing its just solid strut, what that means is the wholes are not there. The Channel where the nut/bolts connect to are still there. Solid strut has no true advantages over slotted strut for brewing other then it might be a little easier to clean up/wipe down.
#2. As long as your not welding Galv. to SS you will be fine. Just bolting the two together wont hurt anything. Worst case would be if you cut the Galv. strut your going to have a unprotected area where it could rust and that rust might attempt to make it's way to the SS.
Here is my version of the OP's, I used solid as well. No SS however.
musikguru6
Well-Known Member
How are the gas lines attached to the structure?
musikguru6
Well-Known Member
Also, what size casters will fit this?
I think your asking about my stand since you commented in the other thread with the same questions, these are the casters I used: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1F6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Also to bolt the gas manifold to the stand again I took eye bolts that were just a little smaller the the OD of the Iron Pipe and opened them up a little so I could slide the pipe in them, then just drilled holes and bolted them to the bottom cross member.
Also to bolt the gas manifold to the stand again I took eye bolts that were just a little smaller the the OD of the Iron Pipe and opened them up a little so I could slide the pipe in them, then just drilled holes and bolted them to the bottom cross member.
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71westbrewing
Well-Known Member
anyone have any idea where I could get the plug/switch receptacle he uses for the pumps?
I have seen them at Lowes in my area. I bought a couple for my outdoor receptacles that set out in the rain.
pellis007
Well-Known Member
Hey lpdjshaw...really nice build. I've been subbed to this thread for awhile and have finally decided I'm going to build my own. Everything is in my shopping cart but before I press "Order"...any changes you would recommend? I'm sure you've had opportunity to brew on this rig and just wondered if there's anything you'd do differently with the stand now that you've had a chance to use it.
Thanks,
Pete
Thanks,
Pete
OP
OP
lpdjshaw
Well-Known Member
Sorry, just saw this, haven't been on in awhile. Anyways, probably the only thing I'd change would be to build it a little shorter (I can still shorten it though, just too lazy right now). I wasn't sure at the time whether I was going to go with 15 or 20 gal kettles so I went with the longer frame to accommodate wider kettles. I'm still planning on making a gas manifold and mounting that on the frame as well as mounting my water filter.
I would have to agree with this, especially if you are using keggles. I cut my strut to pretty much the exact same dimensions as lpdjshaw and even gave him credit in my thread. But I thought it was a little to high. Then my wife wondered out into the garage when I was mocking up the stand (after it was assembled with casters installed) and she could not see inside the keggles, now she is only like 5'4". I basically cut the legs down to a height where she could peak over the top and inspect the product with out being on her toes or step ladder. I think I eventually took about 4" off the height making my legs 20" instead of the 24". Yeah it was an extra cut and yeah the stand was already assembled but that's the great thing about strut, when you want to make a change you can!
pellis007
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply and input lpdjshaw and Daves69. My strut order shipped today so I haven't started the build yet. I'll definitely take your advice to go a little shorter. Having it too tall kinda defeats the purpose of single tier. I was thinking with casters installed that it may be a little tall. I'll be using boil kettles instead of keggles so they should be a little lower profile also. Thanks both for your input...I can't wait to get this build started. I'll be sure to snap some photos of the progress.
If you decide to go this router, check out this thread:
My Weldless Build With 1 5/8" Strut
That thread has information using non-solid strut, but it would be the same as this thread!
Gameface
Well-Known Member
Any downside to going super low? I'm thinking 16" off the ground. Enough to gravity feed the pumps but low enough so that I'm looking down into the kettles.
I love this design. Pretty sure this will be the way I go. Just don't see the benefit of height anymore than to be able to feed the pumps. Could I go lower than 16"?
I love this design. Pretty sure this will be the way I go. Just don't see the benefit of height anymore than to be able to feed the pumps. Could I go lower than 16"?
Your going to be doing allot of bending over at 16" to the bottom of your kettles. My stand is 29.5" to the bottom of my keggles and it's that height because my wife is 5'2" and she wanted to be able to see inside the converted sankey keggle. She can see down them so unless your very little and I am not being mean but 16" sounds way low.
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Gameface
Well-Known Member
I have you beat in the short wife dept but I doubt my wife cares if she can see into the kettles. lol
Guess I won't go as low as 16" but maybe around 26", I'll get a tape measure out and compare to other stuff before I commit to anything.
My kettle currently sits on a KAB4 and that thing isn't too far off the ground, not too much of an issue. I have a 20G Blichmann and it's 20" tall.
Just got mine built. BG14s go on this weekend. Was an easy 3 hour cut and build.
Basically finished. So glad to finally start all grain.
LoopeyLoon
Member
What size black pipe did you use? I'm at that stage right now in my build.
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It's 1/2"
LoopeyLoon
Member
Thanks. Build looks great!
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they are close to roller blade wheels. They roll nicely
pellis007
Well-Known Member
Well, this project has been on the "back burner" (pun intended) for awhile since I don't brew in the summer. But I've resurrected my solid strut build and plan to have it finished in the next week or two, just in time for my brew season. I built the stand and mounted the burners last winter/spring. Yesterday I decided to finish the propane plumbing, mount the chugger pumps and my Therminator. I have all my kettle valves, weldless bulkheads, sight gauges and thermometers on order and they should be here this week. I also ordered some pump valve kits with quick disconnects and hoses which should arrive this week. After that I need a propane regulator, and to finish my mash tun. Not sure what my sparge solution will be yet and I still need a false bottom. I plan to recirculate and eventually will probably convert to an automated RIMS system with gas valves and control panel. Thanks to the OP for the idea and the info. Can't wait to finish this up and get my 10 gal batches going for the fall.
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