Show us your element housings/pots. How did you do it?

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I'm also using the Brewer's Hardware housings with full ferrules. I want them welded as close as possible and will remove any excess from the inside of the keg. Even if there isn't any sticking through, it will be fine. Just need to weld them above the line where the false bottom sits to prevent creating a route for stuff to bypass it.

I had to use straight elements as the curvy ones wouldn't pass through the housing.

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I'm also using the Brewer's Hardware housings with full ferrules. I want them welded as close as possible and will remove any excess from the inside of the keg. Even if there isn't any sticking through, it will be fine. Just need to weld them above the line where the false bottom sits to prevent creating a route for stuff to bypass it.

I had to use straight elements as the curvy ones wouldn't pass through the housing.

Sweet! When are you getting that welded in?
 
I gotta figure out getting the 1.5" hole in the side of the kegs for the two ferrules.

I have the perfect hole/punch saw for this if you want it. It is a 1 3/8" carbide tipped hole cutter. It is perfect for the ferrules. Just pay $15 which should cover shipping.
PM me.
 
Here is my kettle, two 1500W 120V elements fed from separate breakers in my panel. My ground wire is fastened to the screw for the electrical box, I did a continuity check to ensure I have a good ground.

Later down the road I believe I am going to tear it apart and weld the stainless locknut to the kettle. I also need to make a quick disconnect at the element's electrical boxes since I don't use a pump and typically batch sparge makes it hard to lift kettle to pour. The cords get hung up on things.

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Sparky said:
Here's mine:

How'd you get the curved elements to fit? The 5500W 240V elements I had from Ron's Home and Hardware didn't fit through. I'm wondering if I tried with the ferrule clamped on and didn't take it off...oh well.

Sparky said:
I have the perfect hole/punch saw for this if you want it. It is a 1 3/8" carbide tipped hole cutter. It is perfect for the ferrules. Just pay $15 which should cover shipping.
PM me.

1 3/8 hole cutter makes a hole big enough for a 1.5" ferrule? I put a caliper on the ferrule and it's definitely bigger than 1.375".
 
Just finished my element covers/boxes. 2" TC X 1" NPS element plate from Hillbilly Stills soldered through 14ga stainless plate which in turn is bolted to water-tight box. Provides grounding point and covers element wiring inside the box. Cable strain relief on the side for my 10/3 cords and that's it.

Have to say, even it's going slow, the build is really fun.

Thanks to many from the forum for continuing inspiration.

Where did you find the box & strain relief? I have the same adapter from Hillbilly Stills.

Thanks,
Chris
 
I found the boxes on eBay but he has sold them all now. Usually a little searching with different keywords will result in finding something. There are alot of 4x4 junction boxes that will work too.
 
How'd you get the curved elements to fit? The 5500W 240V elements I had from Ron's Home and Hardware didn't fit through. I'm wondering if I tried with the ferrule clamped on and didn't take it off...oh well.



1 3/8 hole cutter makes a hole big enough for a 1.5" ferrule? I put a caliper on the ferrule and it's definitely bigger than 1.375".

I had to bend (straighten out) the curved element. If you take your time, it will bend any shape you want. However, I think it is best to go with a straight one if you have the option.

The 1 3/8" hole cutter is perfect for the 1.5" ferrule. Since it cuts less, it lets the 1.5" ferrule site on the kettle, not inside it. It is flush with the kettle. Measure the inside diameter of the ferrule and it should show that the 1 3/8" cutter works best.
 
lafolielapper said:
OK...so here is my question. I am doing a really simple PWM control box...only controlling a single 5500W heater element and no RIMS/Pumps/Etc. I currently have two pre-wired wide-view LED's 12V that I would like to use for two purposes. First, I would like one LED to show power applied to the circuit...the second showing the pulse on and off of the SSR. Where would these LED's be placed within the circuit to show both of these statuses.

Lastly, I would like to have a switch to control whether the circuit is on or off. As of now I have a SPST Toggle Switch 10A that I intended to use to control the 12VDC to the PWM...but now I am wondering if it is also important to have a DPST 30A switch to control the input power from the dryer cord 240V to the receptacle that my heater element will be plugging into.

Please help...very very very confused!!

Are you using a contractor between your SSR and the receptacle?
 
You can use a double pole relay to kill power to both legs of the element for safety sake and they make them with 120V AC or 12V DC coils so any simple switch can be used to kill the power to the element. Common sense works too...unplug everything before cleaning etc. Above all use a ground fault protected outlet or breaker, if something happens you'll live to brew another day. AC power in the same room with gallons of liquid, hoses, water lines etc requires safety.
 

Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but some people don't like the idea of physically touching a 30 amp 240V switch. Wet hands, etc., people would prefer to throw a low voltage switch and then have a relay in a control panel that throws the higher amp/voltage switch.

There's a logic to this, IMO, although it's more about comfort level than actual danger. Just my limited opinion.
 
Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but some people don't like the idea of physically touching a 30 amp 240V switch. Wet hands, etc., people would prefer to throw a low voltage switch and then have a relay in a control panel that throws the higher amp/voltage switch.

There's a logic to this, IMO, although it's more about comfort level than actual danger. Just my limited opinion.

They make this to address that concern
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NK...cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

Not sure that this is the right one but they do have one that fits the one being used.
 
Does anyone have an issue with the hot water heater threads being straight pipe thread and everything else being standard pipe thread? Any suggestions in this or does it seem to work OK using the standard 1" pipe thread? Thanks for the info.
 
BackpackerAaron said:
Does anyone have an issue with the hot water heater threads being straight pipe thread and everything else being standard pipe thread? Any suggestions in this or does it seem to work OK using the standard 1" pipe thread? Thanks for the info.

I'm using tank spuds from brew hardware with 5.5k LWD and a 4.5k ULWD from Ron's hardware and the 4.5k threads in 3/4 of the way before it's tight and the 5.5k gets just over one turn before its tight. This concerned me but once made my enclosure (which I hope to post pic of today) it didn't matter: because of the thickness of the 2 orings and the face plate I only get one turn before the oring make a solid seal.
 
Here are my element inclosure, the thing the sets mine apart is the use of the Switchcraft plugs and outlets. I use to use then when I did audio and lighting for events, they are solid and small so I could install then on my "Kal boxes" which helps for disassemble.

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I really like the switchcraft solution. Are those rated for 30amp? Any chance you can provide model numbers so I can locate the plugs / connections in their catalog?

I'm curious if they are any cheaper than the twist lock plugs. I'm tempted to put in the basic right angle plugs on my control box just to save money, but worried about how clean it will look.
 
They are rated for this application; follow the links to see the specs. To be sure I double check w/ switchcraft and they confirmed they are good for exactly what I had in mind and I've never had a problem so far they don't even get warm...
They are like $4 for the outlets and $6 for the plugs.


Connectors STRAIGHT CORD PLUG
Panel mount power Outlet
 
They are rated for this application; follow the links to see the specs. To be sure I double check w/ switchcraft and they confirmed they are good for exactly what I had in mind and I've never had a problem so far they don't even get warm...
They are like $4 for the outlets and $6 for the plugs.


Connectors STRAIGHT CORD PLUG
Panel mount power Outlet

wow those are amazingly cheap. Do they lock in?
 
Yes, push in to lock and they have a triger button on the plug. You can see in the image, it's the white metal on the very top on the plug.
 
They are rated for this application; follow the links to see the specs. To be sure I double check w/ switchcraft and they confirmed they are good for exactly what I had in mind and I've never had a problem so far they don't even get warm...
They are like $4 for the outlets and $6 for the plugs.


Connectors STRAIGHT CORD PLUG
Panel mount power Outlet

Are they Waterproof? That would be perfect if they were.
 
I'm going to say no, they are not waterproof but splash proof maybe, the contacts are on the inside of the barrel on the plug so it would take a lot of water to short them, more then a boil over or a loose hose. The panel mounts are not meant to take a lot water, I've used the straight cord outlet in wet outdoor application with the the straight cord plugs and then wrapped gaff tape around the connection and they are then just about waterproof.
 
just placed my order for 4 plugs and 4 outlets. I think this is going to be a great solution. Cheaper than the twist locks and takes up less space. Plus I can disconnect my power cord from the kettle. Thanks for sharing the info.
 
I think you'll be happy with them, the twist locks are big and expensive. As you can see my CP is very small, that was partly possible because I used these outlets. My whole set up is influence by the event business (corporate events, rock concerts, weddings) that I use to do audio and lighting for, if you don't do this type of work then you might not think to use this type of product.
 
runs4beer said:
I'm using tank spuds from brew hardware with 5.5k LWD and a 4.5k ULWD from Ron's hardware and the 4.5k threads in 3/4 of the way before it's tight and the 5.5k gets just over one turn before its tight. This concerned me but once made my enclosure (which I hope to post pic of today) it didn't matter: because of the thickness of the 2 orings and the face plate I only get one turn before the oring make a solid seal.

Thanks. I got the parts and it seems to work well so far. I have only did a dry run (with water) so far. I used a 254V 4500W heating element and using it at 120V WHICH GIVES ME 1125W and approx 9 A. With 5 gallons of water it was heating at about 45 seconds per degree. Here isn't what it looks lie so far. I haven't mounted the pump yet but so far so good. Eventually I will swap out the 419 for a PID and SSR.

image-3502595425.jpg
 
stlbeer said:
Where have you located your temperature probe?

I am waiting on a tee and drilled through compression fitting and am going to put it in the input of my heater tube. I think this is the best place since I will measure my actual mash temp as opposed to putting it in the output of the tube which will always be higher since it's just been heated by the element. Any thoughts?
 
BackpackerAaron said:
I am waiting on a tee and drilled through compression fitting and am going to put it in the input of my heater tube. I think this is the best place since I will measure my actual mash temp as opposed to putting it in the output of the tube which will always be higher since it's just been heated by the element. Any thoughts?

Having it on the input of the tube will cause it to really overheat your mash. The controller won't stop heating until the entire mash is up to temp which means the liquid going through the tube could be boiling for all you know. Output on the tube is much safer for your mash and allows for much finer control.
 
They are rated for this application; follow the links to see the specs. To be sure I double check w/ switchcraft and they confirmed they are good for exactly what I had in mind and I've never had a problem so far they don't even get warm...
They are like $4 for the outlets and $6 for the plugs.


Connectors STRAIGHT CORD PLUG
Panel mount power Outlet

This is why I like this website so much. A great melting pot of people from all walks of life and occupations with hundreds of ideas that make for a superb resource for electric brewers. :mug:

I have the cord on my rig coming out of the side of the electrical box. That could be replaced with the Switchcraft plug and a small splash shield added for protection.
 
I have the perfect hole/punch saw for this if you want it. It is a 1 3/8" carbide tipped hole cutter. It is perfect for the ferrules. Just pay $15 which should cover shipping.
PM me.

Sparky, I'm planning on cutting a hole in my Kettle to support the installation of a 1.5" TC ferrule this weekend, but your post has me concerned that I might not know what I'm doing... I was expecting that I'd need to cut a 1.5" hole in my kettle to support a 1.5" TC ferrule -are you saying that I should be cutting a 1 3/8" hole instead? I've got access to both a carbide hole saw and a GreenLee punch, for what that's worth.


Thanks,
Adam
 
Here's mine:

That is a true thing of beauty!

I wasn't planning on parting with $70+shipping to solve this problem but DANG that looks SOO good..

If it exposed a switch craft connector on the outside it would be PERFECT in my book and probably worth $70...



Adam
 
So, with those Switchcraft connectors, is the "male" configured so that is safe being "hot" when exposed, unlike, say an L6-30P male plug?
 
So, with those Switchcraft connectors, is the "male" configured so that is safe being "hot" when exposed, unlike, say an L6-30P male plug?

Yes, even though it is a male plug the contacts are on the inside of the barrle and are not exposed, male or female, cord end or panle mount this type of conection keeps all of the contaacts safely covered. It is not uncomen to do "hot patches" wirh these at an events such as rock shows when a light or an amp goes down. not as much as they once were but rocks are still seat of the pants and Switchcraft knows this.
 
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