My new brew system, a brutus 10 with some nice modifications

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Gas manifold time...

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On the bottom picture, you have a npt to flared fitting, I notice some arrows point up on it, could you give me some information on this part?

Another time, I think I answered my own question again. Is that a Excess Flow Valves for example from Brasscraft?

http://www.brasscraft.com/Products.aspx?Id=214

If so, what rating are you using (i notice yours has a green band) there are many colors from this product line.
 
I replaced those fittings with standard NPT to flare fittings. They came apart internally when I was disassembling my gas bar to make some changes. I didn't know what they were to be honest....

Sounds like a pretty decent safety feature that I should probably look into replacing :/
 
So Im wiring up my honeywell VR8200 valves and I saw you are using the same ones. Unlike your build I was planning on wiring my valves straight to their respective love controller but, I am now stumped. there are two spots to wire into, a TH and a TR prong. Can I just take one hot wire from the TR terminal to the love control? I noticed you had two hots coming off yours, why is that?
any help would be much appreciated
thanks
Ian
 
Im going to be doing a wallace stand build in the coming months, and want to use the bg-14 burners from agrisupply as well. In your posting you said "The Banjo burners are high pressure propane burners, so the orifice holes (in the brass fitting entering the burner) are smaller. To convert these burners to low pressure propane you have to drill the holes in the orifice to be bigger. That's what I did."

do the burners on agrisupply come with the brass orifice? What kind of regulator are you using off of your tank? Specifically interested in the psi, (30,20,10,something else?)
Because if you drill out the orifice but have a 30 psi reg, are you still low pressure (sorry i know nothing about LP, other than it smells funny :))
Thanks for the awesome write up and supplier list. Gonna use the same flexible gas lines.
 
cobol,
I have the high pressure banjos bg-14's, use a bbq propane bottle, and have a 0-30 psi regulator to make it work. I crank the pressure knob 11 cranks and the flame is perfect.
snake10
 
@cobolstinks

In the picture above from Jlandin, it shows the reg connected to the tank (and is a low pressure reg(no knob)) also from reading about it in this blog as the honeywell VR8200 valves wont work with high pressure.

If you want to do a high pressure system, is simple as buying a high pressure reg, normal size orifice change and bypass all automatically controlled systems and run it manually from the knob on a high pressure reg.

If you are going to order the BG14 why dont you order the orifice already drilled out from
here: http://www.brewershardware.com/Valve-and-LPG-Orifice-for-BURN10.html

Quoted from Brewers Hardware:
What is WC Pressure? WC stands for Water Column and is measured in inches. It is a measurement of pressure under 1 PSI. Most gas companies deliver gas to your home at 7" to 11" WC. 27.7" WC is equal to 1 PSI.

Perhaps this regulator will work for you (you must change to a low pressure reg, for a low pressure system, high pressure will not work with the VR8200 valves, I think the honeywell valves may become damaged if used with a high pressure system.):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z2FM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So Im wiring up my honeywell VR8200 valves and I saw you are using the same ones. Unlike your build I was planning on wiring my valves straight to their respective love controller but, I am now stumped. there are two spots to wire into, a TH and a TR prong. Can I just take one hot wire from the TR terminal to the love control? I noticed you had two hots coming off yours, why is that?
any help would be much appreciated
thanks
Ian


I think this thread located at the link below may answer your question:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/gas-temperature-control-dummies-116632/index11.html
 
I am in the process of ordering everything needed to build the control panel. I have most of it but still need a few things.

Josh, what are the dimensions of your control panel box?

I have looked for hours trying to find the power in module you have used and for the life of me have not been able to locate one. Anyone have a source to purchase one just like it?

Thanks in advance
Zeek
 
I am in the process of ordering everything needed to build the control panel. I have most of it but still need a few things.

Josh, what are the dimensions of your control panel box?

I have looked for hours trying to find the power in module you have used and for the life of me have not been able to locate one. Anyone have a source to purchase one just like it?

Thanks in advance
Zeek

Is this what you are looking for :

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/100140-conn-ac-recpt-single-fuse-socket-765-00-001.html
 
Something like that will work. I like the one that Josh used as it is a press in fit one. :)
 
First I must give credit to Josh for sharing his build information on this project. :rockin:

Here is the start of my shameless attempt at replicating his brewery controller. This was probably the easy part for me. Wiring it all up without letting the magic smoke out of it will be a little more difficult. :D. One step at a time.

Cheers
Zeek

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IMG_1458-1.JPG
 
Zeek said:
First I must give credit to Josh for sharing his build information on this project. :rockin:

Here is the start of my shameless attempt at replicating his brewery controller. This was probably the easy part for me. Wiring it all up without letting the magic smoke out of it will be a little more difficult. :D. One step at a time.

Cheers
Zeek

can you please list your componates you bought
 
Most of the part #'s for various items are listed throughout the thread. Here are the ones I ordered.


Radio Shack


SPST Lighted Rocker Switch
Item#: 2062522
Quantity: 2 $4.19 $8.38


SPST16A/125VAC Illuminated On/Off Rocker Switch
Item#: 3165064
Quantity: 1 $3.99 $3.99


DPDT with Center Off Heavy-Duty Toggle Switch
Item#: 2062514
Quantity: 2 $3.99 $7.98


Size M Panel-mount Coaxial DC Power Jack
Item#: 2102486
Quantity: 2 $3.19 $6.38


Size M Coaxial DC Power Plug (2-Pack)
Item#: 2103614
Quantity: 1 $3.19 $3.19


RadioShack® 6-Position Dual-Row Barrier Strips
Item#: 2103983
Quantity: 2 $2.59 $5.18

8-Position Jumper
Model: 274-650 | Catalog #: 274-650
Quantity: 2 $1.99 $3.98



Auberins.com

2 x Universal 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SYL-2362) = $85.10
2 x Panel mount connector for RTD sensor (RTDCON) = $7.30
2 x Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2 in, 1/4 NPT Thread (PT100-L50NPT) = $63.10

Stayonline.com

1. Product ID: 7286
Product Name: AC Outlet IEC60320 C13 Female
Quantity: 2 Unit Price: $3.00


2. Product ID: 6458
Product Name: PowerFig PFC14R14J96 AC Power Cord IEC 60320 C14 Plug Right to ROJ 8 Feet 15a/250v 14/3 SJT
Quantity: 2 Unit Price: $6.00


Digikey.com

Digi-Key Part Number CCM1647-ND
Description MODULE POWER ENTRY 10A W/SWITCH
Quantity: 1 $7.28

Home Depot

Heath Zenith Wired Door Chime Transformer
Model # DW-125
Internet # 202209267
Store SKU # 777900
Quantity: 1 $12.85 /EA-Each


For the enclosure
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=7360431

I got mine on ebay from user tonytieger

Made an offer of $10 and he took it. He had 5 left but has not relisted them yet.

Zeek
 
Keep track of your wiring, I am just about to start my wiring and so far this is what I have written down. Please correct and/or add to complete this wiring information.

six post double pole double throw (HOA)

1 - 24v valve (down fire mode)
3 and 4 - 24v (wire specifics??)
6 PID (up/auto)

For lights I would put a 24v light between the HOA (term 6(auto mode)) and the PID and between HOA (term 1) and 24v valve (down fire)

PID SYL-2362

8 (white),9 (red),10 (red) - pt100 temp probe (wire specifics??)
1 and 2 - AC power in (wire specifics??)
13 - positive terminal 6 on HOA switch
14 - 24v valve Neutral

Set points for PID

inty - p100
outy - 4
hy - 3
atou - 0
psb - 0
rd - 0
corf - 0

Manual for syl-2362
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-2362 instruction 1.6.pdf

Gas valve (connections at valve)

The "TR" terminal goes to terminal 14 (24v+) and terminal 13 goes to the positive side of the transformer
The "TH" terminal goes to the negative side of the transformer

Switches

Pumps and main power are Single Pole Single Throw
HOA switches are Single Pole Double Throw


Lights

Lights for illumination between PID and valve are 24v

RTD Inputs


White-
Red-
Red-

What wire connects to each post on the radio shack connectors?

24V valve control outputs (on control box)

Power to valves (wire specifics??)

Terminal block (bridge) main power

Minimum 16 pole block (with a layout as displayed below)

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

Functions:
-Power too 24v transformer
-Power too PID

Specific wire information

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16

No information yet (to be completed)

Terminal block (bridge) 24v

Minimum 16 pole block (with a layout as displayed below)

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

Functions:
-Power too six post double pole double throw (HOA) which in turn powers the valves

Specific wire information

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16


No information yet (to be completed)

Input power module

To main switch (wire specifics?)

Main power switch

to Terminal block main power (wire specifics?)

Pump power switch(s)

power from Terminal block main power

24 volt transformer

power from Terminal block (bridge) main power
power too Terminal block (bridge) 24v


Wire gauge size

10 and 14????




That is all I have at the moment, please add and/or correct this (I will update this post) to make this information as complete as possible. Please check back with this post at a later date for complete information as I will update it as I get more information.

Please note, your specifics may differ. I have taken all information from JLandin and compiled it specific to the build in this thread. Some information comes from word or mouth, manuals, and well informed individuals in an effort to help me optimize my wiring of the system.

Thanks in advance,
Daniel in Frankfurt, Germany
 
To my understanding the hot wire from your pid should be wired to the TH terminal not the TR. The TH stands for thermostat which is what would normally be sending the call for heat to the valve. So I'd say TR is common and TH is hot
 
I guess I am confused then, anyone care to verify the Th and TR connections on the honeywell vr8200 valve? I had copied that information from another thread in this forum where a user used that and it worked, however, if that information is wrong, please correct it.

The information I copied was located here at the very bottom

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/te...-honeywell-valve-questions-167050/index3.html

The person went on to fix his problem with drilling a bigger hole in the oriface.

So question is, what wire connects to the TR terminal and the TH terminal of the Honeywell vr8200 valve.
 
Welding the gas bar has been a nightmare. I keep finding leaks rewelding and finding them again. I recommend running pipe inside the gas bar. Ugh
 
Welding the gas bar has been a nightmare. I keep finding leaks rewelding and finding them again. I recommend running pipe inside the gas bar. Ugh

Where have your leaks mostly been? At the welded couplings? Or on the ends? Do you think you would have had more success in welding the gas beam in place rather than putting end caps on it? I am interested as I am heading down this road very soon ...
 
Where have your leaks mostly been? At the welded couplings? Or on the ends? Do you think you would have had more success in welding the gas beam in place rather than putting end caps on it? I am interested as I am heading down this road very soon ...

My buddy that is helping me is a certified HVAC technician and Mac Guyver so I am definitely not the pro he is. And he is also a pretty good welder. Here are a few of the mistakes i made you can learn from:

1. Run all gas line with pipe. You can even plasma cut holes and enclose it inside the bar. That way your welds don't have to be air tight. Pipe glue will prevent leaks.

2. If you ignore recommendation #1 and weld the pipe nipples to the bar make sure all nipples face the same way. Honeywells are smart, safe, but expensive. my honeywells face different sides not by choice but because the threads started on different sides and under too much pressure will break.

Before anyone gets technical HVAC is heating and air not gas but in commercial HVAC gas is heavily involved and he has over 10 years experience in new construction including running gas lines.
 
lotwookie said:
My buddy that is helping me is a certified HVAC technician and Mac Guyver so I am definitely not the pro he is. And he is also a pretty good welder. Here are a few of the mistakes i made you can learn from:

1. Run all gas line with pipe. You can even plasma cut holes and enclose it inside the bar. That way your welds don't have to be air tight. Pipe glue will prevent leaks.

2. If you ignore recommendation #1 and weld the pipe nipples to the bar make sure all nipples face the same way. Honeywells are smart, safe, but expensive. my honeywells face different sides not by choice but because the threads started on different sides and under too much pressure will break.

Before anyone gets technical HVAC is heating and air not gas but in commercial HVAC gas is heavily involved and he has over 10 years experience in new construction including running gas lines.

You could weld a union in the gas rail so you can still position the valve in the direction you prefer. Or in your case add one to the nipple you welded on the rail.
 
Zeek, that is a good list, but for the total cost, you could have a bcs-460 and with a handful of ic relays for less than a buck each, you would have a fully process controlled system. Just curiosity why you went the harder route?
 
Zeek, that is a good list, but for the total cost, you could have a bcs-460 and with a handful of ic relays for less than a buck each, you would have a fully process controlled system. Just curiosity why you went the harder route?

jlandin was kind enough to share most all his build info for his brew stand and his controller. (Thanks again jlandin) I decided this is what I wanted to build so I am replicating most of his build. I have my controller finished and it was by no means hard to build. Rather simple hookups. I posted the list to make it easier for anyone else who is looking to replicate the controller.
As far as the bcs-460, I know nothing about it and had never heard of it.

Regards
Zeek
 
Did anyone else mimic Josh's build but instead go with a BCS-460 controller? I'm about to tackle that stage next and need a diagram. If you got one that would be extremely helpful. The lack of diagrams are my only complaint about the BCS route.
 
Here is a simple BCS diagram. This is how my system is connected. The BCS replaces all your PIDs. In fact it acts like 6 PID's in one simple small device. You don't need switches unless you just want to add manual control, but that can be done through the web interface or even through a phone app. You get four temperature inputs, 6 5V outputs for relays, 4 discreet inputs for things like push buttons if you really need them, 4 web inputs. All of it is controllable with a simple web browser or third party phone apps for both Iphone and Android. I use IC type 12V relays that cost less than $1 each. The nicest thing about the BCS is that you can program multiple processes for different brews and store them. When brew day comes, select the process that suits the beer you are going to make and start brewing. The BCS itself is $187. I have 6 relays at less than $1 each, a couple of inline rocker switches for manual control of my pumps, a 12V 10A power supply to run the gas and fluid solenoids and that is it. I have a little wireless router hooked up to my BCS and can connect a laptop or my Android phone directly to it to run the process or throw the router into bridge mode, link it my home network, and watch my brew processes from anywhere in my house. You can also use the BCS as a temp controller for your fermenter. In fact depending on your setup and level of control required, you could use the same BCS for both.

BCS_simple.jpg
 
I must say I love your setup and I am trying to build mine pretty close to your setup. The one thing I am really confused about is the burner. I have done lots of reading and the low vs high pressure is killing me. I see that you go the BG-14 Kick A banjo Burners from Agrisupply I want to get these, but on the website they say High Pressure. Please tell me that it doesn’t matter, or did you do something to this burner.

Thanks for your wonderful posts!

Flutch
 
Just buy the burners and use a 0-20psi adjustable regulator. It doesn't matter, the burner will come with the correct orifices already attached. You will need to build a manifold from black pipe (not galvanized!) and use gas rated ball valves. (see the water heater/appliance department of your hardware store).
 
So I bought the honeywell pilot burner and honewell 24v Solenoid Gas Valve, what I cant find is the small gas line that goes from the honewell gas valve to the pilot burner. I have the Honeywell 24" Thermocouple, but need the gas line.

could some please help.

thanks as always.

Fluth
 
Just go to HD/Lowes it's 1/4" copper coil in the plumbing section. Pick up the bender tool while your there too
 
Does anyone know if it possible to get reasonable bends in the 1/4" copper tubing without using a pipe bender? Or is it likely to kink?
 
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