ball lock vs pin lock?

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Hello
Pin type have 2 different connectors so you cant mess up the connection. In only goes to in, out only goes to out; reportedly ball lock can be reversed. 5 gallon size the pin type keg is a bit shorter. Both are rated to 130 psi, at least the ones I have. I dont have any long term experience with either as far as connector reliability, longevity, leaks, etc. There are likely people that prefer one over the other for various reasons. I have both because they were cheap.
If you are sizing for a fridge etc then size may be a factor.
I dont personally see one being worth 40 more bucks over the other.
Longer term corny keg brewers will likely correct me :)

Eric
 
the main difference is that ball-lock keg parts are cheaper and easier to get than pin-lock, other than the height/circumference differences
 
Ball lock lids have a manual/mechanical pressure relief valve, pin locks are only mechanical. The versatility of the manual valve allows you to purge the kegs easier. You may need to get a modified socket to remove the posts on a pin style where as on a ball lock you can use a standard 7/8" box end or 12 point wrench. But if price is what is restricting you these are problems that you could work around.
 
About the only difference I can find other than the shorter and fatter pin lock and the relief valves is that pin are no longer being made and you can still buy brand new Ball locks from a bunch of vendors. I caught a pin lock system on sale and saved enough to get an extra keg to go with the kit. Now I have multiple possibilities rather than having to label bottles to keep them seperate. They were originally part of the non interchangeable idea between Coke and Pepsi so that each other couldnt steal the others kegs easilly. There are special sockets available to switch them over if you want, but I personally don't see a reason to go to that much trouble just to change a fitting style to keep up with the proverbial Jones's. That just my opinion and it is worth about what you paid for it, but thats how I see it.
Bob
 
Just a point of clarification: in the used market you'll find all kinds of crazy stuff, with pin lock sized kegs with ball lock connections and ball lock kegs with pin lock lids being fairly common. I have both types of kegs and they work just as well, and a mixed system is easy if you use MFL connections for gas and liquid. I honestly don't see the pressure relief valve on the lid being all that important of a feature, but that's just my opinion...
 
Attaching the ball locks are easier but yeah you can get them reversed if you're not paying attention. The pressure relief valve is handy if you need to bleed CO2 from the keg for cleaning. T[
 
I use both because I made sure to set up fittings instead of barbs. The only problem I have run into is that the more stout pin locks don't always fit where ball locks do.

For example many mini fridges will hold two ball locks but only one pin lock. When purchasing ball locks for this purpose make sure that they are not converted from pin lock bodies as you will run into the same problem.
 
lumpher said:
the main difference is that ball-lock keg parts are cheaper and easier to get than pin-lock, other than the height/circumference differences
Click to expand...

I've heard it the other way. The supply of used ball locks is starting to run low, so the price is going up. Pin locks are generally less desired, so they are cheaper and easier to get. Coca Cola made the pin locks so you know there is a huge supply of kegs/parts.
That's how it was explained to me.

(To the OP: And there are the size differences, like the others have mentioned.)
 
lumpher said:
the main difference is that ball-lock keg parts are cheaper and easier to get than pin-lock, other than the height/circumference differences
Click to expand...

Uhhhh, nope! Pin lock are usually cheaper and easier to find (because everyone has ball lock). Check out www.kegconnection.com for great prices.

I'm all pin lock!!
 
I only use pin locks. They are cheaper and its impossible to hook it up with the wrong hoses.
 
ffaoe said:
I only use pin locks. They are cheaper and its impossible to hook it up with the wrong hoses.
Click to expand...

This and this also make it quite difficult to hook up the wrong connections.

image-3377757515.jpg


image-3938531579.jpg
 
I too am considering starting with pin lock b/c they're now cheaper. However, is there a way to vent oxygen when carbing (to prevent oxidation of the beer) as I've seen many talk about and demonstrate with the relief valve that's on top of ball locks kegs?
 
I have pin lock kegs with ball connectors and manual relief valve lids. they've morphed into ball locks over the years.
 
beerman0001 said:
Why the pic of the ball lock kegs?
Click to expand...

He was pointing out that many ball lock kegs also make it "difficult" to hook things up wrong by explicitly labeling which post is which. Not as effective as a physically being unable to hook things up backwards, but unless you're hooking up kegs in the dark, seems like it should be sufficient if one is paying attention. :D
 
amandabab said:
I have pin lock kegs with ball connectors and manual relief valve lids. they've morphed into ball locks over the years.
Click to expand...

I was looking at buying some pin locks without relief valves on top, although the vendor provides piece to push onto one of the posts to relief pressure. However, I don't see how this would let you vent oxygen when carbing b/c gas would be going in and pressing down on the out post would spray beer, right?
 
BrewKnurd said:
He was pointing out that many ball lock kegs also make it "difficult" to hook things up wrong by explicitly labeling which post is which. Not as effective as a physically being unable to hook things up backwards, but unless you're hooking up kegs in the dark, seems like it should be sufficient if one is paying attention. :D
Click to expand...

:drunk: I read that one wrong.
 
mmcouch said:
I was looking at buying some pin locks without relief valves on top, although the vendor provides piece to push onto one of the posts to relief pressure. However, I don't see how this would let you vent oxygen when carbing b/c gas would be going in and pressing down on the out post would spray beer, right?
Click to expand...

Right. so what you do is hook up the pin lock backwards. Wait, you cant.
yes you can if you build a gas line with a beer connector. :fro:

just like you'd build a hose for transfering from keg to keg "out to out". and purge the keg being filled with the gas post.
 
mmcouch said:
I too am considering starting with pin lock b/c they're now cheaper. However, is there a way to vent oxygen when carbing (to prevent oxidation of the beer) as I've seen many talk about and demonstrate with the relief valve that's on top of ball locks kegs?
Click to expand...

Yes, very easily: remove gas connector, depress poppet. I do it regularly :)
 
amandabab said:
Right. so what you do is hook up the pin lock backwards. Wait, you cant.
yes you can if you build a gas line with a beer connector. :fro:

just like you'd build a hose for transfering from keg to keg "out to out". and purge the keg being filled with the gas post.
Click to expand...

Umm, not right actually. The dip tube for the gas-in side is higher than the level of beer in a full keg. I've never had beer squirt me through the gas side... if so, you've got bigger problems.
 
mmcouch, I use a swivel nut connector on the gas line and connect gas line to an out quick connect on the out line. This bubbles CO2 through the beer as you are pressurizing, and I vent by pushing the plunger on the gas in port.
Just remember to take the disconnect off the keg before you undo the swivel nut...
 
Can a guy take the lid from a pin lock and drill it out to install a pressure relief valve?
 
CaptnCully said:
Can a guy take the lid from a pin lock and drill it out to install a pressure relief valve?
Click to expand...

If you have some sort of relief valve with a nut on the back side, yes. The lids are to thin to thread something into. I think the oval lids are interchangeable between pin and ball locks.
 
barrooze said:
Why not? Add a SS nut and an o-ring (maybe a washer too) and it's just like a weldless bulkhead assembly for a ball valve.
Click to expand...

I doubt you would have enough threads to go through the lid, an o-ring, and have room left to thread on a nut. If you want to try it M14 2.0 is the thread pitch. I just checked one. Even if it did fit the valve doesn't seal on itself. It seals on the bottom of the bung its threaded into.
 
That relief valve you linked is not going to work by just threading it into a nut. Picture a cup welded to the top of the lid. Drill a hole through the bottom of that cup and the lid. Now imagine the rim of that cup is threaded for the threaded part of what you linked. The tip of it covers the hole, the spring keeps it tightly sealed. Excessive pressure, or pulling on the ring, unseats the seal allowing pressure to release.

You can drill a hole and install one of these in your lid. http://www.brewbrothers.biz/Pressure-Relief-Valve-Assy
 

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