I'm close to ordering parts and was hoping someone could give their opinion on what I selected so far.
Lowes 5500watt element -
a Ultra Low Watt Density (ULD) Element would be better to prevent scortching of your wort. I bought this one: Camco 2963. This site also has the best prices on dryer cords and 30/50AMP receptacles that I've found. You'll save enough money to make up for the shipping costs.
Auber PID # syl-2352 -
I bought the 2362 and I think a lot of people are....it's a couple $ cheaper and now has the manual mode that you need.
Auber 40 amp SSR # RS1A40D40 -
a lot of people are successfully using these Chinese SSRs that are MUCH cheaper. Be prepared to wait 3 weeks to a month to get them though.
Auber heat sync # HS40 -
the Chinese SSRs come with the heat sinks
Auber panel connector for thermocouple # TCCON
??? Auber thermocouple ??? I'm not sure what to get yet.
either
TC-K6 K-type 1/4 - 20 thread or TC-K100MMNPT liquid tight K-type 4 inch probe 1/4 NPT.
I went with the more expensive 4" RTDs because I also monitor/control my mash with them and they have disconnects built in (although it's not a panel mount). While you need a thermocouple/rtd connected to the PID it doesn't need to even be connected to the kettle if you are using manual mode. If you want something you can thread into an NPT fitting to monitor cooling temps, you could probably get away with the 2", but it's up to you. You probably already know the the 20 thread thermocouple will not thread into an npt fitting, I figured I'd point that out.
I was thinking of buying one of Bobby's sight glasses with a tee so I could screw the thermocouple in there. Does the probe length matter? I would have to get the second thermocouple because of the thread. There is a big difference in price though so maybe a 1/4 hole in the keggle would be cheaper and easier.
I highly recommend Bobby's sight glasses. They are simple and well designed (and come with calibration numbers).
I also haven't picked any switches yet.