How long do you age your mead?

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Qeelin

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I want to make my first batch of mead and I'm curious how long it will take to age completely. According to "The Complete Joy of Home Brewing", Papazian says to ferment to completion in the primary, move to a secondary to clear and then you can bottle/drink the mead. Is this how y'all do it? Most people say to age 6 months to a year, do you? How young have you drank your mead? I don't want to rush things but I'm curious if mine will be ready to drink in time for an event next year. Also has anyone ever used oak chips in mead? I just love the sound of "Oak Matured Mead" but I don't want to waist the time and money for it to turn out terrible.

Ronnie
 
Oak can completment meads nicely, but it is very easy to over do it.

Some meads are drinkable at 6 months or even earlier, but I haven't had one yet that I really loved that wasn't at least 18 months
 
some sweeter meads are fine early, however generally speaking six months to a year is perfect.

Oak is another matter all together. I made a chai mead recipe that I aged in oak and the oak really made the mead wonderful. It was quite popular and I ended up winning an award for it at an SCA event that had a mead tasting competition. I wrote an article on oak aging here.
 
How long do I age? As long as I can!

Seriously, though, some mead is good quickly, and I agree w/ CuAllaidh that sweeter ones seem to be more enjoyable earlier. But no matter what, you'll never go wrong with aging longer -- put a few bottles from each batch away and forget them for 5 or even 10 years or longer!

In his book "Homebrewed Adventures," Papazian talks about drinking 50 year old mead in Scotland, and he seemed to think it was absolutely fantastic...
 
How long do I age? As long as I can!

Seriously, though, some mead is good quickly, and I agree w/ CuAllaidh that sweeter ones seem to be more enjoyable earlier. But no matter what, you'll never go wrong with aging longer -- put a few bottles from each batch away and forget them for 5 or even 10 years or longer!

In his book "Homebrewed Adventures," Papazian talks about drinking 50 year old mead in Scotland, and he seemed to think it was absolutely fantastic...

Well if you do age a mead that long would it be advisable to use a corked bottle instead of a flip top "EZ-Cap" style or ordinary beer bottle? I can't imagine those bottles would last too many years like a cork would.
 
I age mead/melomel for as long as it takes. I've had melomels that were great at 1.5 years, but I have a cyser that wasn't even palatable till 4 years. Usually melomels will be ready before meads & the higher the ABV, the more aging it takes. I always bottle part of a batch in 12 oz beer bottles as samples, that way I can try one at various stages of aging to see how things are progressing. Regards, GF.
 
It is possible to over age meads, especially melomels and such. While mead tends to mellow and interesting notes come through over time, it is possible for off flavours to come through and intensify over time as well. The best way to determine how long to age is put away a number of bottles and after six month take a bottle out and taste, then after a year take a bottle out and taste, then again at two three four and five years taste. That way you'll know the best length of time to age that recipe for future batches.
 
It is possible to over age meads, especially melomels and such. While mead tends to mellow and interesting notes come through over time, it is possible for off flavours to come through and intensify over time as well. The best way to determine how long to age is put away a number of bottles and after six month take a bottle out and taste, then after a year take a bottle out and taste, then again at two three four and five years taste. That way you'll know the best length of time to age that recipe for future batches.

That's a good idea. What do you use for bottles? Wine or beer? Will a beer bottle or swing top bottle keep it's seal for years and years?
 
I've used beer bottles before without issues, but I haven't aged for more than a couple years yet in one. I've also waxed beer bottles to help with keeping a seal during long term aging. I like beer bottles since I don't normally want to drink a wine bottle full of mead, even with friends I'd rather break out a couple 12 oz bottles of different meads/beers.
 
That's a good idea. What do you use for bottles? Wine or beer? Will a beer bottle or swing top bottle keep it's seal for years and years?

I personally use wine bottles, but I know a lot of mazers who use swing top and standard beer bottles without issue as well. While conpewter has a point about the volume of liquid in a wine bottle being more than you usually want in one sitting he obviously isn't as much of a lush as me :tank: seriously though it is a valid point and I might consider starting to use beer bottles myself for the point he made about bringing out various types in one sitting.
 
A 375 cc wine bottle and a 12 oz (360 cc) beer bottle hold a similar amount so you can bottle using whichever style you like while still keeping the volume small enough to serve when you don't want a full bottle.

Since sweet dessert wines are usually bottled in 375 cc bottles I typically use that size for sweet meads.
 
So, I have a question, somewhat off topic, but I have 5 gal of show mead that still in bulk aging after 1.5yrs. 1098->.998. Has serious jet fuel fusels in the nose, like isopropyl alcohol is in it. I added acid blend and it cut down some of the harshness... I followed Ken Schram's verbatum advice from the Jamil show on meads.

Is it supposed to have that much alcohol in the nose? It is quite hard to drink. Will back sweeting cut that down, or is it a lost cause at this point?
 
Is it supposed to have that much alcohol in the nose? It is quite hard to drink. Will back sweeting cut that down, or is it a lost cause at this point?

It depends.
What yeast did you use, and at what temperature did you ferment this?
What type of honey did you use?
How long did the fermentation take? were there any problems with it?


If you have a really fusel ridden batch, it can take years to mellow. I produced a batch 3 years ago and I'm still waiting for it to become drinkable (I'm beginning to wonder it if ever will - D47 creates a mess at 75 F).

The good new is that sweetening can cover a multitude of sins including fusels.

Medsen
 
What yeast did you use, and at what temperature did you ferment this?
Lalvin 71B-1122; room temp.. somewhere in the mid-upper 70's. Nothing I read at the time (as still even) really seemed to care about ferm temps NEARLY as much as beer fermenting.

What type of honey did you use?
12 lbs Local wildflower and another 3 lbs from another source. If I recall correctly, the extra 3lbs may have had some severe crystallization..which I just read in Shramm's book can cause issues, but not explicitly fusels.

How long did the fermentation take? were there any problems with it?
Under a week if, Im not mistaken. Its been a while (4/09) since I made it, and Id have to dig a find the "brew" notes. FermK, DAP, GoFerm, stirring first 3 days, etc. No problems, just lots and lots of fusels.. 5 gallons of honey flavored jet fuel. Once you get past the burn, it has a nice honey taste.
 
Your fermentation temp is the culprit. Traditional meads, by and large, taste much better much sooner if you ferment them cool. Generally that means below 70F, and near the lower end of the yeast's temperature range. It is possible to produce a good traditional mead fermenting in the upper 70s or even in the mid 80s F, but very few yeast will do it, and 71B isn't one of them.

If you age it long enough, it may get better. You can certainly sweeten it to cover the alcohol if you like sweet wine/mead.

Medsen
 
Has anyone used Wyeast 4184 Sweet Mead yeast? I'm planning on making a blackberry melomel for my first and I want it to finish very sweet. I plan on using 15 lbs of clover honey for a 5 gal batch. What do you think?
 
That yeast strain is notoriously finicky and prone to sticking (particularly with traditional meads). If you are fermenting berries, it may work better as that provides more nutrients and pH buffering. Personally I'd rather use a yeast like 71B, or if you want lower alcohol, even a neutral ale yeast.

Medsen
 
That yeast strain is notoriously finicky and prone to sticking (particularly with traditional meads). If you are fermenting berries, it may work better as that provides more nutrients and pH buffering. Personally I'd rather use a yeast like 71B, or if you want lower alcohol, even a neutral ale yeast.

Medsen

Lower alcohol isn't necessarily what I'm after, just a sweeter mead. I've read that having a high quantity of honey in the batch will cause the yeast to die at certain alcohol levels and leave unfermented sugar behind. Some of the yeasts designed for sweet mead (like the Wyeast 4184) say they are designed to leave a certain amount of sugars behind no mater the alcohol level.
 
Your fermentation temp is the culprit. Traditional meads, by and large, taste much better much sooner if you ferment them cool. Generally that means below 70F, and near the lower end of the yeast's temperature range.

My beer making has gotten much, much better in the last 1.5 years as I have acquired a few more temp-controlled refrigerators since then :) This information is good to know, and I actually figured this might be the case as beer yeast throws off flavors at the higher end of the yeast temp ranges, and typically much better results at the lower end (as long as it doesnt stall/crash) I guess I couldnt find literature to back it up and this caused my doubt.

So, for brewers yeast, I was under the impression that fusels were formed by either high temps, underpitching and/or insufficient oxygenation. Are these also true for mead (meaning wine/champagne yeast)? I had the understanding that there were slightly different yeast in the way they behaved, but wasnt sure how they were different functionally.
 
I've read that having a high quantity of honey in the batch will cause the yeast to die at certain alcohol levels and leave unfermented sugar behind. Some of the yeasts designed for sweet mead (like the Wyeast 4184) say they are designed to leave a certain amount of sugars behind no mater the alcohol level.

In a mead, virtually all the sugars are fermentable, so the yeast will ferment all the sugar available until they reach the limit of alcohol they can tolerate. As long as you start with a gravity (or potential alcohol level) higher than the alcohol tolerance of the yeast, you'll end sweet. The problem is that you can't be quite sure what that alcohol tolerance is - the listed numbers are not always what you get in practice so you could be higher or lower depending on the must. That means you won't be certain how sweet you end up. It could be just right, or you could end up with it being syrupy.

One way around this problem is to ferment with a gravity to produce the level of alcohol you want, and then stabilize the mead using sulfite/sorbate to prevent continued fermentation. Then you can sweeten it up to the exact level you want. I often take this approach.

With the Wyeast sweet mead yeast the alcohol tolerance is around 11-12% ABV. As long as you start with a gravity above about 1.090, you'll probably have residual sugar (if it sticks, you definitely will :) ) With a yeast like 71B, the tolerance is about 14% so you need to start with a gravity above 1.105 to end sweet (give or take).


So, for brewers yeast, I was under the impression that fusels were formed by either high temps, under-pitching and/or insufficient oxygenation. Are these also true for mead (meaning wine/champagne yeast)?

Factors that lead to higher fusels are higher temperature, more oxygenation (not less), higher pH, higher pitch rates (not under-pitching), higher level of solids, and possibly higher levels of precursor amino acids (but this is debated). Bayanus strains may also be more prone to fusel production.

Temp is the most important of these factors, and the production of fusels seems to occur most during times of rapid yeast growth, i.e, during the early part of fermentation. Letting the temp rise late in the fermentation does not seem to cause the same problem.

My apologies to the OP for diverting this thread into a discussion of yeast physiology.

Medsen
 
I do not tend to really drink mine until a year+. Even then some take longer and I have a recipe for a quicker mead.
 
bubbachuck,
So whats that recipe for a quicker mead and how quick are we talking? <3-months?

I currently have three 1-gallon variations (#1-valencia orange, #2-red grapefruit, & #3 lime/red grapefruit/valencia orange) of Yooper's JOAM in the primaries from mid-june, contemplating racking to secondary or bottling soon. No idea when it will be ready to drink.
 
I made a batch of MOAM and a batch of JOAM and sampled a bottle each month after reaching the six month point and it was like drinking paint thinner.

I am down to the very final bottle, over 1 year later and I regret drinking all the others for "testing". Its absolutely fantastic now. One year minimum. It only gets better with age. Lots and lots and lots of age.

This last bottle needs to be saved for a special occasion...
 
I just racked my first gallon of mead to secondary after almost 2 months.. it was a darker honey, but was very clear (could read small print on labels through it) and actually tasted pretty good... I guess I will bottle in another couple or few months... I was wondering at what point the mead would benefit more by being in brown glass bottles rather than continuing "bulk" aging in clear glass???... I can keep it pretty dark, but it's not perfect.
 
Hey there. I'm still really new to mead so my answer could be totally off, but from what I've been reading on here (and numerous other sources), it doesn't look like you really need to worry about the darker bottles for mead. They seem to be primarily for beers where the hops will get skunky if exposed to too much light. Since (most) meads will not have hops added to them, it doesn't look like a clear bottle would cause any problems.

P.S. Sorry in advance if I'm totally on the wrong page and thank you to whoever corrects me.
 
Hey there. I'm still really new to mead so my answer could be totally off, but from what I've been reading on here (and numerous other sources), it doesn't look like you really need to worry about the darker bottles for mead. They seem to be primarily for beers where the hops will get skunky if exposed to too much light. Since (most) meads will not have hops added to them, it doesn't look like a clear bottle would cause any problems.

P.S. Sorry in advance if I'm totally on the wrong page and thank you to whoever corrects me.

+1...you are correct. I generally only use brown bottles for my hop metheglins (and occasionally a few extra longnecks at the end of a bottling run after I've filled up my 2 cases worth of 750's...) Most of the time I just pick the color of the bottle based on what I'm bottling; ie, I tend to use green for cysers, clear for other melomels and meads that have a that have a nice color (like a nice dark bochet), and cobalt blue, amber and other colors for various other meads...
 
Thanks for the confirmation! I've also been wondering what the best way to age is. Right now I'm working on a 3 gallon batch of sack mead that so far tastes great. Fermentation slowed drastically, but I made sure to de-gas and add more nutrient and it picked right back up. I'm planning on bulk aging for a month or so, then add finings and bottle in some flip-tops. Thanks for the info everybody!
 
I would say age as long as possible! If u taste the mead and it taste mad good, then a year later it will be even greater(provided it is stored correctly).
 
D47 creates a mess at 75 F.

yup
yup
yup
i have a cyser that should have been ready months ago and it is barely drinkable now and only then if it is ice ice cold (and who wants to drink it that cold?) probably another 2 months and it will tasty.
the cyser i made right next to it, same recipe, procedures and conditions, but used k1-v is crazy delicious.
 
bubbachuck,
So whats that recipe for a quicker mead and how quick are we talking? <3-months?

not sure what his recipe is, but this mead is drinkable and tasty in 3.5 months from mixing. lots have commented on it, i even sent some to total strangers on this website for impartial opinions and they liked it.
its a very simple recipe, the key is the yeast and proper yeast care:
15 lbs honey
top up to 5.5 gals water
k1-v1116 lalvin dry yeast
go ferm rehydration nutrient
fermaid o nutrient
do not ferment any warmer than 70 F
use staggered nutrient additions, so add 3 grams fermaid o (mixed in a little water) at 1/3 sugar depletion, and 3 grams at 1/2 depletion.
also, degas daily for the first 7 days of ferment, it's just a gentle stir to release bubbles.
will probably finish around 1.000, (still can't tell why, something with the k1-v yeast) will taste sweeter than that though.
primary one month
secondary 2.5 months
bottle
be hungover
 
You can have a tastey mead with a few months of aging, but it might be amazing after 1+ years.

If you're a first time mead maker, I think it is fine to drink a few bottles, but I think you should also set some aside so that you can see how it improves with age. I enjoyed my young mead, but after tasting my 1 year old mead, I wish I had saved more of it. This experience convinced me to wait 9 months before I even bottle.

The next lesson is to keep a pipeline going so that you always have some aged mead ready.
 
Hey there. I'm still really new to mead so my answer could be totally off, but from what I've been reading on here (and numerous other sources), it doesn't look like you really need to worry about the darker bottles for mead. They seem to be primarily for beers where the hops will get skunky if exposed to too much light. Since (most) meads will not have hops added to them, it doesn't look like a clear bottle would cause any problems.

P.S. Sorry in advance if I'm totally on the wrong page and thank you to whoever corrects me.

Thanks to you and the others for the responses. I actually did put a few hops in my first batch (had some leftovers from a batch of homebrew I was working on at the same time...). It was still good when I tried it and I have it in the dark now, so I suppose I'll bulk age it for a while longer. I should have thought of the hop thing myself, but I was having a slow moment (as I often do).

:mug:
 
I want to make my first batch of mead and I'm curious how long it will take to age completely.

I've made about 20 gal of mead in the last little bit, my latest batch was brewed in February, bottled in April, and is only now smooth enough to drink. at three months it tasted like a harsh sake (I used a lot of honey!), but now it's starting to smooth out and taste like a soft(er) wine.

AFAK, mead is one of those things that has a very, very long and slow upward climb to greatness.
 
So I know it has been a couple of years since this thread went dormant, but I wanted to thank you all for the wealth of knowledge I've gained. I started two variations of a mead recipe on 02 January this year and just moved them to secondary. I tasted both during the transfer and they are GLORIOUS. One is a cucumber/jalapeño and the other is a mango/habanero. Each has 6 pounds of local honey.

I have read so many posts encouraging a year plus in secondary. Guess I'm in this for the long haul. Each batch is 2.5 gallons. Figure a year in secondary, then bottle and forget about it for 6 months before trying it out? Thoughts?

Oh, one last thing. I put extra produce in with the must when I racked over to secondary. Would it stay in there the whole year? If not, at what point would I remove it? Thanks again!
 
I don't think I'd leave it on the fruit/veggies any longer than 4 months, but you should taste 'em every month or so to see if they've reached the flavour profile you want. You can always rack onto more produce if you feel the need. I've left melomel on plums as long as 7 months with great results.
Regards, GF.
 
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