Bad Nottingham Experiment with Pics

Yakima 728
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Don't worry, I am really really thankful someone is trying to do an unbiased experiment to finally bring this lot of yeast into indisbutable light.

The first time I heard about it, I was thinking the error was something with the user. But I have read so many stories of people with bad results that I will never buy nottingham. I never have bought it and when I do buy dry yeast, it is because I want something consistant and reliable as a backup for my other yeasts.

Thank you for putting the time and effort into this experiement and I wanted to make sure you knew there are people out here reading that appriciate it.

Many like me are being patient to see the results, unlike some people who are jumping at your throat because you are proving the yeast they love is faulty.

Thanks again!
 
I won't say that I'll never buy Nottingham again. It's generally a solid yeast, which is why so many people defend it vociferously.
Danstar clearly has to work out some issues, though. I'll try it again in a while.

That said, I pitched two packets of Mauri Ale Yeast into my carboy and immediately started getting airlock activity.
 
I dont understand why some people are protective of a yeast strain. I have had a problem with it, took five days to start. I doubt it turns out well. If it does i will post.

The manufacturer has admitted to a bad batch. How is it surprising that they may have had another?
 
soundsandsuds said:
I won't say that I'll never buy Nottingham again. It's generally a solid yeast, which is why so many people defend it vociferously.
Danstar clearly has to work out some issues, though. I'll try it again in a while.

That said, I pitched two packets of Mauri Ale Yeast into my carboy and started getting airlock activity.
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I personally won't ever buy it (I can't say again because I have never used it). I usually use my own harvested pacman yeast for almost everything, but always have US-05 on hand for a back up. Like I said, when I buy dry yeast, it is because I need something very reliable and consistant on hand. I just wouldn't feel confident using Nottingham at this point when US-05 has been virtually problem free.
 
Notty is the only dry beer yeast my LHBS carries. I've never had a problem with it. I would definitely use it again, but not that lot number. It's super cheap and super effective. However, it probably won't be an issue for me for the simple reason I'm going to start washing my yeast and reusing it. A bad batch shouldn't be a reason to stop using the strain altogether. I can imagine myself in their position, and some contractor in the supply chain screwed something up, I wouldn't think it's fair for my whole empire to collapse from one (or two) bad lot numbers.
 
I'll throw in the fact that I pitched a pack of notty from the same lot as show in the first pic in this thread into the beer I brewed last night and I had kraeusen and airlock activity within 12 hours, so...

I don't think this is necessarily a "bad batch" of notty. if it was a bad batch, there wouldn't be a bunch of folks who are having success with it.

Perhaps a more important question would be, "Where did you get it from?"

idahoDal (who previously posted) is a friend of mine and his yeast came from Northern Brewer. mine came from my LHBS. Same lot, different supplier.
 
passedpawn said:
Sooo, why do you proof yeast if you're going to use it anyway (whether it blooms or not)? The idea of proofing is to know whether the yeast is good or not before you pitch (into beer or bread). Or so I thought.
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Proof/pre-activate. Quibble of terms I suppose. I generally boil a little sugar water at the very beginning of my brew day and when it is cool, toss in the yeast. Generally it has had a couple hours to proof/activate/whatever. My last batch there was no signs of activity when it came time to pitch. What are you going to do if you don't do this the day before? I keep a packet in the fridge. Had nothing happened I would have tossed it in also.
 
Walker said:
I'll throw in the fact that I pitched a pack of notty from the same lot as show in the first pic in this thread into the beer I brewed last night and I had kraeusen and airlock activity within 12 hours, so...

I don't think this is necessarily a "bad batch" of notty. if it was a bad batch, there wouldn't be a bunch of folks who are having success with it.

Perhaps a more important question would be, "Where did you get it from?"

idahoDal (who previously posted) is a friend of mine and his yeast came from Northern Brewer. mine came from my LHBS. Same lot, different supplier.
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I got my bad pack from Austin Homebrew supply
 
If some work and some don't, from the same batch, seems like a supplier issue. As someone mentioned above.
 
I've used yeast from this lot 3 times now. 1 pack from the LHBS, 2 packs from Brewmaster's Warehouse. All three beers have fermented just fine with no rehydration/proofing/stupidness.
 
Funny, that is the same batch I used this weekend. It worked fine. Which makes me think even more strongly that is must be a supplier issue. At least in this case.

I am in NC and got this from a brew supply store in Raleigh.
 
As far as I'm concerned, the experiment is over, 72 hours with no gravity change. I was only whining because people were chiming in with deconstructive comments before the experiment was over. Now that my personal experiment is over, yall have at it. I appreciate the moderator jumping in and cleaning it up, I myself started to get carried away and dragged down into the shi talk. I apologize.

Let the sh hit the fan.
 
The supplier issue doesn't make much sense to me, though. We haven't heard anything about the Windsor or the Munich. Plus, I'm in Vancouver, Canada while Fletch is in Georgia. It's not likely to be the same supplier.
 
passedpawn said:
Sure! Yoop was just cleaning up the stupidity. That's over with now, hopefully.
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I guess the stupidity isn't over yet.
dwarven_stout said:
I've used yeast from this lot 3 times now. 1 pack from the LHBS, 2 packs from Brewmaster's Warehouse. All three beers have fermented just fine with no rehydration/proofing/stupidness.
Click to expand...

With posts like this one the direction of this thread will continue. What dwarven_stout is suggesting here is that anyone that's having a problem with this yeast is doing something stupid.

I was just following the directions of on the back of the packet, and rehydrating. If that's wrong, and the basis of this problem, then Danstar should change the directions on the packet.

I too apologize if my "+1" post offended anyone. All I was doing was agreeing with someone that a poster was being offensive.
 
Rover said:
I guess the stupidity isn't over yet.


With posts like this one the direction of this thread will continue. What dwarven_stout is suggesting here is that anyone that's having a problem with this yeast is doing something stupid.

I was just following the directions of on the back of the packet, and rehydrating. If that's wrong, and the basis of this problem, then Danstar should change the directions on the packet.

I too apologize if my "+1" post offended anyone. All I was doing was agreeing with someone that a poster was being offensive.
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Er, I don't think that's what he is suggesting at all. I think he is suggesting that the distinction between proofing and rehydration is stupid in this discussion.
 
mullenite said:
Er, I don't think that's what he is suggesting at all. I think he is suggesting that the distinction between proofing and rehydration is stupid in this discussion.
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It sounds to me like the way he does it by not rehydrating or proofing is the better way to do it. That's why his way is working
 
Memorex88 said:
I still think it has something to do with the way they STAMP the lot and date on the packets. Until they change this practice, I won't/haven't taken a chance on notty anymore.

Look at the pictures here --> https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/nottingham-yeast-128940/index6.html#post1582423
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Dry yeast is so hard to kill, it just does't seem like a little air/moisture in the packet would kill it dead. Slow it down a bit at the start, but not kill it. I have used half pack of bread yeast and closed the top with tape and used the other half a few months later with no problem.

It is multiple people from multiple locations so it is def a problem. But always in the past dry yeast is as reliable as sugar. It just always works. So I probably just shot myself in the foot and my next batch will not start!!
 
I have come to the conclusion that I really do need to rehydrate and "proof" my yeast. From this day forward I have a new plan. ( my plan in no way implies that anyone who has an alternate way of doing things is doing anything wrong, it's just what I have determined that I need to do to keep my sanity.) From now on, I will rehydrate in accordance with the manufacturers recommendations. I will then add 1 teaspoon of sugar (disolved in a 1/4 cup of water) to my rehydrated yeast solution. I will ensure my water is not to hot and not too cold. About 85 degrees is good. If my yeast does not foam up (proof) within 30 minutes, I will dump it and start over with a fresh sachet of yeast. I will keep extra yeast sachets on hand for this purpose. If it's good I will pitch it directly into my brew bucket.

BTW - here is a link with a good picture of what a good proofing yeast looks like,

http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html

I know that I would also be safe making a "starter" but that involves more forethought than I am likely to be able to do consistantly.
 
I mentioned the bad batch to my LHBS when I went to pick up some other yeast for repitching.

They mentioned that it's easier to mess up the yeast by following Danstar's instructions on the package. They said that rehydrating at the top end of their recommended temperature range tends to kill the yeast, especially if a lot of water is used; because it takes longer to cool down. They suggested that pitching dry is more reliable.
That said, I pitched towards the bottom of the suggested temperature range, so that wasn't my problem.
If problems are caused by following the manufacturer's instructions then that's not operator error. We should be able to follow the manufacturer's suggestions and receive the intended results. It's not really reasonable to suggest that people are idiots for following the instructions on the package.
 
stevedasleeve said:
You might want to read this:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/fermentation-can-take-24-72-hrs-show-visible-signs-43635/

It solves the Nottingham problem (apparently it is technique related, and experience results in good fermentation.)
Click to expand...

Do a quick search of this forum for threads on Nottingham. The problems are well documented going back at least a year and not just by a bunch of noob brewers who don't understand that it takes time for fermenting to launch. The fact that some Nottingham yeast is OK doesn't take away from the fact that they shipped a lot of bad product. That thread and wisdom gets quoted at the beginning and throughout every one of these Nottingham threads.
 
It probably was a sub par packet. I have used nottingham 4 times and it has started in 4 hours. I have even proofed it before and it has shown activity in 30 minutes. I did once have a problem with danstar Munich taking 4 days to start. In this case I did rehydrate and proof and it did fail.

So far Nottingham hasn't let me down. When it works it makes a good product I guess.
 
I just asked you experts for help with my yeast problem in "No airlock bubbling". I got a few good pointers there. I brewed about 42 hours ago. No fermentation so far. Then I read this thread. I used exactly the same yeast as the op - same lot. i'm such a newbie (3 batches) that I assumed I was the problem. Maybe its the yeast. What is the time window for repitching? I wont be able to get any new yeast until tomorrow which will put it at about 72 hours
 
Ronstar, just to make sure you are clear, the problem with the yeast is not that it won't ferment. The problem is that it takes a very long time (relatively) to start/complete fermentation.

You will most likely be ok if you let the yeast sit and allow them to get their lazy asses in gear.

This is still a big issue with the yeast, so don't think I am downplaying the issue! I just want to make sure you are aware of the potential issues
 
Germelli1 said:
Ronstar, just to make sure you are clear, the problem with the yeast is not that it won't ferment. The problem is that it takes a very long time (relatively) to start/complete fermentation.

You will most likely be ok if you let the yeast sit and allow them to get their lazy asses in gear.

This is still a big issue with the yeast, so don't think I am downplaying the issue! I just want to make sure you are aware of the potential issues
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll wait a while.
 
ronstar55 said:
Thanks! I'll wait a while.
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Also many people have found that when the manufacturer stamped the date on the the yeast packet, some of the letter-stamps penetrated the wall of the packet entirely. If you still have your packet laying around I would reccomend you see if that was an issue with yours.
 
Germelli1 said:
Also many people have found that when the manufacturer stamped the date on the the yeast packet, some of the letter-stamps penetrated the wall of the packet entirely. If you still have your packet laying around I would reccomend you see if that was an issue with yours.
Click to expand...

Thanks - just checked and my packet is penetration free.
 
In my opinion ronstar, if it has not started in 48 hours, I would re-pitch. Possibly with a different brand. The longer the wort sits unfermenting the larger the chance you will get off flavors specifically and other un-lovelies. Remember proper sanitation.

It only costs a couple bucks, and gives you peace of mind. Otherwise, How long do you wait? 4 days, 5 days? Just do it!!: )
 
I finally started airlock activity somewhere between 48 and 58 hours. In the future I'll have more yeast to pitch on standby in case this problem happens again.
 

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