brewnami
Member
Hey guys:
I built this rig some time ago and am just getting around to posting it. I did want to put it out there though in case it helps anyone. I referred to Scuba Steve's build as inspiration and wanted to pay it back to the site and attest to the fact that you can use a wooden "brutus" safely.
Essentially this is a direct fire system just as brutus is. Somethings important to note if you build your own:
Some notes on the hardware:
The steel that the kettle cross bars are 2X2 tubing that are mounted on a perpendicular 2X4's. Mounted underneath the 2X4 are 1X1 perforated steel stubs that the burners are also mounted to. To mount the arm of the burner I hung a u-bolt from the perforated tubing. All the steel and quick disconnects came from McMaster Carr.
I also use the Blichmann auto-sparge which is great as long as you set the float level right.
For one the grey stiff is Durock concrete board and I used this on and around any surface that the kettle cross bars touch so the wood wouldn't burn, which it definitiely will without the board. Not pictured is the ceramic insulation (McMaster Carr ) that I added to run the length of the insides of the stand. I added this for extra heat protection. I could have been OK without the extra insulation but nonetheless.
Also you'l notice that I don't have heat/wind shields in the pics, though I have added them now. The way the burners are mounted they are about 6 inches from the bottom of the kettles which is probably a bit too much distance. Without the heat shields I was burning my valves and thermometers. If you build one of this keep in mind this is a must.
It's been a great rig so far and I am very happy with it. Always keep an estinguisher around (though I have never needed one) and be sensible with the burners and you'll be fine.
I will answer any questions as best I can. If you'd like more pics I can add some. Just let me know.
I built this rig some time ago and am just getting around to posting it. I did want to put it out there though in case it helps anyone. I referred to Scuba Steve's build as inspiration and wanted to pay it back to the site and attest to the fact that you can use a wooden "brutus" safely.
Essentially this is a direct fire system just as brutus is. Somethings important to note if you build your own:
Some notes on the hardware:
The steel that the kettle cross bars are 2X2 tubing that are mounted on a perpendicular 2X4's. Mounted underneath the 2X4 are 1X1 perforated steel stubs that the burners are also mounted to. To mount the arm of the burner I hung a u-bolt from the perforated tubing. All the steel and quick disconnects came from McMaster Carr.
I also use the Blichmann auto-sparge which is great as long as you set the float level right.
For one the grey stiff is Durock concrete board and I used this on and around any surface that the kettle cross bars touch so the wood wouldn't burn, which it definitiely will without the board. Not pictured is the ceramic insulation (McMaster Carr ) that I added to run the length of the insides of the stand. I added this for extra heat protection. I could have been OK without the extra insulation but nonetheless.
Also you'l notice that I don't have heat/wind shields in the pics, though I have added them now. The way the burners are mounted they are about 6 inches from the bottom of the kettles which is probably a bit too much distance. Without the heat shields I was burning my valves and thermometers. If you build one of this keep in mind this is a must.
It's been a great rig so far and I am very happy with it. Always keep an estinguisher around (though I have never needed one) and be sensible with the burners and you'll be fine.
I will answer any questions as best I can. If you'd like more pics I can add some. Just let me know.
