revco
Well-Known Member
Also agreed, brilliant! Great space saver idea. I still need to figure out a proper storage mechanism for my setup. It's sprawling, for sure!
Show us your sculpture or brew rig
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Also agreed, brilliant! Great space saver idea. I still need to figure out a proper storage mechanism for my setup. It's sprawling, for sure!
I really like it. I have the same type of shed but a 5x8 that I use for all my brew stuff, along with my Brutus 10 I built last summer. Added a 8x8 deck off the front of it, wheel out the stand and start it up.
Is that pipe looking thing your counterflow chiller? Can you give more detail on that? I think I see the temp probe wire going to the top but can't see anything else about it.
Thanks,
Is that pipe looking thing your counterflow chiller? Can you give more detail on that? I think I see the temp probe wire going to the top but can't see anything else about it.
Thanks,
SkullStacheBrew
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No, that is my RIMS heat exchanger. Temperature probe on top and electric heat element in the bottom.
Here is my counterflow chiller. Pretty basic copper tube inside a hose. I think I got about 30' in it before I couldn't slide it in anymore.
http://skullstachebrew.blogspot.com/
Here is my counterflow chiller. Pretty basic copper tube inside a hose. I think I got about 30' in it before I couldn't slide it in anymore.
http://skullstachebrew.blogspot.com/
nice set up Bro! Great job.
dbrewski
Well-Known Member
I love creative thinking. Haven't seen anything quite like this, and it makes sense in a shared area like outside an apartment, etc. Heck, it makes sense just about anywhere! Great way to keep a deck or patio cleaned up when not in use. Good work!
FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
I wonder if you could lube up the hose inside just pouring baby oil or something else in there? 30' is probably sufficient though.
*Edit* I just realized how sexual this post sounds.
slakwhere
Well-Known Member
Soapy water and mine went together easy as pie.
The toughest part was pushing the hose on the end of the T
The toughest part was pushing the hose on the end of the T
Damn that's cool!
Do you have pics of the inside if the dumpster, errr, mash tun? How well does it hold temp with the rims - does it get "cold pockets"?
What elements are you boiling with in the kettle? Boil time?
Do you have pics of the inside if the dumpster, errr, mash tun? How well does it hold temp with the rims - does it get "cold pockets"?
What elements are you boiling with in the kettle? Boil time?
Heh. I don't have any pics right now but its just a simple stainless braid in the bottom of the MT. The only problem I have had with the RIMS tube (it's the one from Stout Tanks) is that the way its configured new with a probe on one end, the probe was not giving accurate temps. I reconfigured it so that the probe is inside of a 1/2 tube and it is much better. I give the mash a stir now and then but the temp stays very steady.
The kettle has 2 4500w elements. I start heating as soon as the elements are covered and I've never timed it but I would say at worst it gets to a boil about 10 mins after I'm finished sparging. Sometimes it gets to a boil before I'm done sparging.
My biggest bottleneck right now is heating strike water which takes about an hour. However, I have a dryer plug that's close
The kettle has 2 4500w elements. I start heating as soon as the elements are covered and I've never timed it but I would say at worst it gets to a boil about 10 mins after I'm finished sparging. Sometimes it gets to a boil before I'm done sparging.
My biggest bottleneck right now is heating strike water which takes about an hour. However, I have a dryer plug that's close
dbrewski
Well-Known Member
Holy smokes! Go big or go home, right? That is awesome. What size are your typical batches?
slakwhere
Well-Known Member
i think the control panel for this should be 6 foot x 4 foot to be more to scale with the size of the vessels!
frod1963
Well-Known Member
Here is my work in progress. You can follow my blog to see more.
I really like the stainless "vessel" or kettle/ stainless drum or whatever that is on the right at mid height, what is that?
Demon
Well-Known Member
Looks like a 42gal kettle from bubbasbarrels.com
rockinmarty
Big Member
Holly crap dude. Only 1 question: What do you do once it get cold in Winterpeg? 'cause that will steam up a garage:rockin:
SteveMillerTime
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Jimmy_B said:
Please tell me you have a link to that giant bag you use for mashing...that'd save me so much time cleaning up! Not to mention reduce tannins from the grain!
rockinmarty
Big Member
I would also love to know where to get one!
I started with 20 gallon batches but am mostly doing 30 now.
I am planning to move it all inside pretty soon. Was hoping to get in one more outdoors brew but then this happened this evening. Up until earlier today there was no snow. Such is life in Winnipeg
I am planning to move it all inside pretty soon. Was hoping to get in one more outdoors brew but then this happened this evening. Up until earlier today there was no snow. Such is life in Winnipeg
rockinmarty
Big Member
Still nothing in the Montreal area. hoping for another winter like last year. We did not get to much snow.
Huaco
Well-Known Member
Here is a crappy pic of my brewery. I will try to take more pictures with my good camera and not my phone...
Would still like to polish the keggles...
Would still like to polish the keggles...
BeardedIdiot
Well-Known Member
Huaco, you used the original openings of the kegs as tri-clover drain fittings that run through the top of the table, yes? Trying to remember back when you were doing your build thread...
Jimmy_B
Well-Known Member
Here is a pic of the bag without grain in it, sitting in an empty 70 quart coleman extreme cooler.
My girlfriend actually makes bags. Here's a link to the ad/discussion on our local club forum.
http://brewnosers.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1679
And a quick video of me draining the mash tun - no lifting of the bag required!
Last edited by a moderator:
Huaco
Well-Known Member
That is correct... It is a little tricky to remove the clamps, but that is the ONLY downside... Bottom draining these vessels is AWESOME! Some guys in my local club are catching on to the idea as well.
Huaco
Well-Known Member
I also used chrome sink disposall flanges to cover and protect the hole I cut in the wood.
HollisBT
Well-Known Member
Aright, no one shoot me please, I did search and still couldn't find a solid answer...
What is the typical cost of having a single tier brew sculpture welded together? For materials and labor.
What is the typical cost of having a single tier brew sculpture welded together? For materials and labor.
Huaco
Well-Known Member
Hey Hollis
I lived in Greenville for about 3 years... well, Simpsonville actually.
Anyway, Cost could vary wildly. This all depends on what material you use, the complexity, etc. Even the same brew stand could vary price quite a bit depending on what shop you get to fabricate it. Best advice I could tell you is to ask around to your buddies... Who knows... you never know who will have a welder and experience.
To your question though, I can't tell you because as you see, I built my stand out of wood.
HollisBT
Well-Known Member
Huaco said:
Upstate represent!
Thanks for that, I've been trying to find information to budget for the stand... I know of a good welding shop in the area, but haven't put together final plans as of yet...
I'm also debating whether or not to learn how to weld it together myself
Monster Mash
Well-Known Member
There is no definite answer for that question. It depends on how much of the work you do yourself and how much the welder thinks he's worth. Come up with a design and start going to welding shops, you might find one that likes beer and will barter a bit.
Like MonsterMash says, it depends. In my case, the cost of labor to weld and materials (2" mild steel box tubing) was around $800. That does not include casters, burners, high temp. paint, gas plumbing, bolts, nuts or taking it back to have something added, i.e., another burner windscreen that I should have had them put on there in the first place but I never thought I would be direct firing my mashtun. For pictures and dimensions of what I had done, click my signature.
I just bought 2x2x11 ga (1/8", basically) SS for my brewstand. I got a deal at $7/foot. You can use smaller tubing, but I think you'll need more of it, or you'll have a weaker stand. I could not go thinner than 11 ga, no matter what the material.
The same material in mild steel is $2.50/foot.
Steel like this is usually sold in 20 foot pieces. My stand is going to take between 40 and 50 feet.
SS needs to be MIG or TIG welded. TIG is a slower process and finding something with TIG equipment and experience is more difficult. In my area, TIG welders charge shop time at a minimum of $100/hr.
Shop time includes set up time, coffee breaks, bathroom breaks, clean up, tool maintenance, etc, as well as the actual work time. You can probably add 25% to the actual time it takes to weld the stand to get shop time.
The other issue is material. Most shops aren't going to have exactly what you want already on hand. They are going to buy it from their supplier at whatever price they offer it at and charge you for the time it takes to get it, directly or indirectly. Nobody works for free.
A big part of the fabrication process is figuring out the design, cutting the pieces and drilling all the holes. And a welder works about 50% faster if they have a helper.
So... if I were you, I'd find a welder that will "work with you", preferably outside of normal shop hours. I'd figure out what material I wanted and go buy it from a supplier. I'd buy or rent a chop saw and cut all my material and drill all my holes so that all the "welder" needs to do is weld. I'd also prep every weld edge so that its clean and ready for the torch and rod.
If he will allow you to, I'd be right there with him in the shop, working, while he is putting together your stand so that you can answer any questions and help him with the setup and figuring things out.
The actual "welding" time (torch burning rod) on a brewstand isn't very much. Its all the other stuff that takes the time. And the more of it you handle yourself for the welder the less expensive its going to be and the better the chance that you get what you want will be.
Just my $0.02. Hope this helps.
gifty74
Well-Known Member
Or, do what others and myself have done and go "weldless". Much much cheaper (~$150 in materials for a single tier, 3 station stand), easily cut the sections of strut with a metal cutoff blade, design it however you like, have the ability to change it at any time by cutting a new piece, removing a few bolts, and inserting the new piece, have all the strength in the world, have attachment points all over the place to put whatever you want on it with a nut and bolt, and build it on your own time in your garage. Only tools needed are a saw with cutoff wheel, steel file, and socket wrench. Put mine together in 30 mins after the sections were cut.
HollisBT
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, I knew it was a pretty vague question, I just wanted a figure to budget around...
I guess I'll draw up some plans and ask some shops around here.
As far as weld less goes, I'm already spending a pretty penny on a new set up, I kind of feel like I might as well shell out a little more to do it exactly the way I want it the first time and be done with it, instead of leaving me wanting more, and spending more in the future.
Thanks for the insight guys
I guess I'll draw up some plans and ask some shops around here.
As far as weld less goes, I'm already spending a pretty penny on a new set up, I kind of feel like I might as well shell out a little more to do it exactly the way I want it the first time and be done with it, instead of leaving me wanting more, and spending more in the future.
Thanks for the insight guys
If I was going to build a bolt together brewstand, I'd use mild steel or SS tubing and the joiner pieces of the strut kits. You could still cut the tubing with a chop saw. The only extra work would be drilling the holes for the joiner pieces.
Regular tubing would be a lot stronger than the strut and a lot easier to clean with not so many nooks and crannies.
FWIW, 1.5 x 1.5 x 0.100 wall square tubing is about $1.50 per foot.
JohnnyUtah
New Member
My wife works with a gal whose husband welds and fabricates. He put this rig together for me, painted it, and drilled all the holes in the kegs for $400 cash.
modenacart
Well-Known Member
I got bed frames for free off craigslist. It is plenty strong. I bought a welder off craigslist for $50 and did the fabrication myself. It wasn't hard to learn, just takes practice.
The crappy thing about bed frames is you need to strip off all the old paint for the high temp paint to do it's thing.
I found the casters for about six dollars apiece at lowes and they are plenty strong too. So many people are over designing their stands.
Jones
Active Member
It only took me 10 months to complete.
1.5" square tube and 2,000 degree paint.
It's time to finish up on the HLT and pumps.
1.5" square tube and 2,000 degree paint.
It's time to finish up on the HLT and pumps.
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