Air compressor aeration

So even if I creep open the valve on the tank I cannot avoid unwelcome and excessive pressure?

I agree it's a better deal in the long run and I'm about to go to Air Gas, see what they have to say, but I've already seen $80 empty but shipped tanks on eBay and the regulator on Amazon you informed me about.

From my own research I would have to agree (again!) that this can easily be achieved for under $150.

stevescott123 said:

So even if I creep open the valve on the tank I cannot avoid unwelcome and excessive pressure?

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It's not as progressive as you might think on these. You crack it open and it's pretty much full blast. IMO, really not worth the risks to save a few dollars. Besides, how are you going to go from the tank fitting to the stone?

I agree it's a better deal in the long run and I'm about to go to Air Gas, see what they have to say, but I've already seen $80 empty but shipped tanks on eBay and the regulator on Amazon you informed me about.

From my own research I would have to agree (again!) that this can easily be achieved for under $150.

Click to expand...

Just make sure those empty tanks have a decent hydro date stamp on them. Close to expiring is one thing. Even a year out isn't that bad. But don't get any that are any older than that or you'll not get much (most likely) towards the exchange.

IMO, another 'benefit' of having the regular O2 tank and flowmeter regulator is you don't need to worry about having enough O2 for something. If you want to make several batches one week, or make something stronger than beer (mead, cider, wine, etc.) you'll have enough O2 on hand to get the job done without issue. I have to wonder how well one of those red bottles would hold up to making 2-4 batches of 14-18% mead in one weekend.

Couple of these reponses came in while I was at Airgas. I did indeed purchase a 20cf tank, filled with O2. The tank was $79.19, the fill $20.28. With the "fees" and my local taxes the total was $113.53.

The Harbor Freight tanks are just under $100. Sure, they're glossy and new and all that but only until you get it to the likes of Airgas who will exchange it for one they have. They don't fill tanks that customers bring in. I was aware of this beforehand, just wanted to reiterate it. Since I was there with my car (I usually ride to work) and Airgas Guy had been most helpful I decided not to waste time going home and trying to beat the deal online...only to wait for it to be shippd to me and then have to drive back to Airgas for the fill AND swap to a different tank. So I handed over my credit card.

There's a whole string of numbers stamped around the cylinder but none appears to represent a hydro date; it's probably in code.

One thing that came up in conversation was the cleanliness of the oxygen. No crticism intended of Airgas Guy but any use outside of industrial (ie: culinary) was beyond his scope. Obviously, since the cylinders are constantly being exchanged the history is not known and any reisdual matter inside the tank is not known. Apparently there is a medical oxygen supplier near Airgas that cleans it's tanks but they're more expensive. I decided not to go there on the grounds that Golddiggie uses an industrial tank and Eastok said that bacteria cannot survive in an O2 environment. Is there anything else that can put my mind at rest on this subject? For $5 the in line HEPA filter from Northern Brewer seems like it might be good insurance (?)

So on to the regulator. I passed up on the Airgas regs that I think started at $150. I'm interested in the one on Amazon but the picture is not so clear. It's a 540 fitting so that's good. I suppose I just have the reg closed, open the tank valve and then open the reg to the desired flow rate - but I don't know what that should be. Can that little medical reg cope with the pressure of the tank? Does the reg also have the ability to tell me how much O2 remains in the tank? Or is that what 2 stages do? I think, at a batch very 2 months, the tank might outlive me but I'd hate to be completing some high OG and expensive brew somewhere down the line and not have the 02 to inject because I didn't see it coming (or going!)

But I was (you were) right about the cost of tank, gas and reg being under $150. Of course that doesn't include the stone, tubing/wand, possible HEPA filter etc. Details, details.

But that's initial cost - like when you buy your first set of brewing equipment and hardware and you then use it for dozens of batches. Next time, it'll just be around $20 for the fill. If I ever need it!

your concerns about the cleanliness of the O2 is unfounded, steve. a HEPA could ease your concerns but then you have to worry about when to change it...more worries. in the 2 yrs i've been brewing i have never had any kind of infection in a fermentor and i hit the wort with pure O2 from a stainless wand that hangs in my garage, i never boil it just spray it with star san turn it on for a second and into the wort it goes. i know many other brewers here have the same experience using O2, it's safe.

Most of my concerns are unfounded. I'm a born worrier.

Thanks!

I think I read somewhere about 12 batches per filter, I'd have to check.

Any thoughts on the regulator and monitoring the tank contents?

BTW what size diffusion stone are you using?

stevescott123, if you already have some 3/16" ID [Bevlex] tubing (as most people who keg will have) then all you need is the air stone on the wand (now)... $34.90 for that. Just need a way to connect it to the O2 regulator. Get one [of the regulators] with threaded fittings and you can break it down easy, get it with the barb and you'll just leave it connected. The threaded fittings (brass) I use were not even $1 each from the welding gas supplier.

So, with buying everything new, you could be closer to $200. Still a far cry cheaper than using the small O2 bottles. You're at under half the cost of just the bottles alone. Of course, I was [originally] talking about just the O2 source, not the stone/wand too.

i use a wand like the one linked to above except i think i bought mine at morebeer. i've had my tank for about 1- 1/2 yrs and brew almost every weekend, i have no clue how much is in there. i basically count to 60 then stop some people say they don't notice the difference but i did notice faster fermentations and cleaner tasting beer. when i use dry yeast i don't aerate but i do when i reuse the yeast slurry from a dry pitch.

I think I'm going to order the "Drive" regulator on Amazon referenced above. Presumably all regulators are designed to work with the high incoming pressure; that's what regulators do (!) and there's no difference betwen "industrial" and "medical" regulators in regard to their ability to do so.

I've seen the wand on Williams but I've not ordered from them before. I have a big wish list at Northern Brewer but thay don't do the wand/diffusion combo. So it's going to be $40 from Williams with the shipping. I think that's over priced for what it is.

I'm planning on getting a stone and matching up some flexible tubing between it and the regulator but also using a section of rigid food grade tubing to better control the stone and keep it low in the bucket. Either I'll sleeve the rigid in so that it's carrying the O2 or I'll just pass it over the flexible tube like a jacket so it's not actually carrying the 02, it's just a handle. I'll go to my local store to see what I can figure out with tubing and stones. But I think I can do it less expensively than the Williams version.

Williams says their wand comes with a 2 micron stone. Northern Brewer sells the 2 and the 0.5 micron with acompanying information that suggests the 2 is suited to the aquarium pump style aeration system and the 0.5 for the oxygenation system. Perhaps the tiny aquarium pumps don't have the pressure to push out of the smaller diffusion holes?

So it looks like I'll get the 0.5 stone unless somebody advises me not to. I read some bad customer reviews on NB that some stones had clogged very quickly. Nobody seems to know how to unclog a stone.

Why does eastok not aerate wiyth a dry yeast? I probably will only use liquid Wyeast from now on but isn't aeration/oxygenation beneficial to all beers, not just the higher OG? I'm hoping to have this 02 sytem up and running in time for my next brew. I'm plannning a NB Caribou Slobber which isn't paricularly high OG but if I have an 02 system I've invested time and money in then I'm not going to shake the bucket before pitching!

stevescott123, with your planned double tube segment, you're going to have more things to sanitize before, and clean after, each use. IMO, that's more trouble and tempting fate (infections). I would just get the William's wand. Or make your own version with all stainless fittings/tubing.

I'm thinking about making my own wand with a .5 micron stone. Not as bad, for me, since I have a welding setup here (again) so I can silver solder a length of stainless tubing to a fitting to connect to the stone (I have a few on hand, of course).

I've not had any clogging issues with the 2 micron stone, on the stainless wand, from William's...

No, there is no need to aerate the wort but it does not harm the yeast either. During its aerobic production, dry yeast accumulates sufficient amounts of unsaturated fatty acids and sterols to produce enough biomass in the first stage of fermentation. The only reason to aerate the wort when using wet yeast is to provide the yeast with oxygen so that it can produce sterols and unsaturated fatty acids which are important parts of the cell membrane and therefore essential for biomass production.

this is from Danstar's website and it explains why dry yeast do not need O2, but it does not hurt either so i just skip it when using dry yeast.

I use a .5 micron stone connected to the regulator (barb) with 1/8" silicone tubing. I use a medical regulator on a "D" bottle and use 1 Liter flow for about 1 min for 5 gallons.

Thanks for those numbers. After reading some reviews on the stones it seems the 2 micron may be less prone to clogging. I doubt he hole size increase would be detrimental to the beer.

I'm surprised the reg barb is 1/8 but I'll easily figure out the hoses I need once the regulator arrrives.

Golddiggie said:

stevescott123, with your planned double tube segment, you're going to have more things to sanitize before, and clean after, each use. IMO, that's more trouble and tempting fate (infections). I would just get the William's wand. Or make your own version with all stainless fittings/tubing.

Click to expand...

Thanks for raising that but I'm not really concerned as I'll be soaking it in sanitiser as I would*anything*that touches the beer. And I'll keep it wrapped when not in use. If bacteria can get in to the tubing so can sanitizer.

But I'll take a look at my local store, see what they have.

I'm looking into silver soldering a section of 304 stainless tubing to a swivel nut, to connect to other air stones. :rockin: Might put the swivel nuts on both ends, to have a more secure connection to the gas line too...

Sounds impressive. But it's like most things; you can take them as far as you want - budget, time, resources permitting!

That said a brazing torch is on my shopping list...

stevescott123 said:

Sounds impressive. But it's like most things; you can take them as far as you want - budget, time, resources permitting!

That said a brazing torch is on my shopping list...

Click to expand...

Go with at least an oxy acetylene torch. Get it sized right too. I'm going to swap out the 20 cubic foot O2 tank (one of two I had traded my 40 cubic for) and get a 60 cubic foot for welding operations. When my acetylene tank is empty, I might go for the next size up on that too. Means I'll be able to do more without going to swap tanks as often.

About to place the order for the stainless tubing. Getting two pieces that are slightly different OD/ID to work with. I've measured the swivel nut barbs I have, to confirm they'll work with these. Then it's just a matter of doing a little silver soldering to connect them up. I won't braze since it's not as good for this application.

BTW, silver solder rod is NOT cheap these days. Prices range fro about $130 to $200 per POUND of the stuff. very glad I had some I bought years back (over a decade ago).

Err yeah....I'm just going to modify my wort chiller a little and install a garage sink. All copper. $20 Bernzomatic kit from Home Depot will be just great!

stevescott123 said:

Err yeah....I'm just going to modify my wort chiller a little and install a garage sink. All copper. $20 Bernzomatic kit from Home Depot will be just great!

Click to expand...

Meh... I think we had a kit like that when I was just a kid. Used it a few times and my father decided it was seriously over-rated and under-powered. So we went to the oxy acetylene system and have been running that way ever since. I suppose it will be fine if you just want to solder water pipes with it. You won't be able to do much else with it though (IME/IMO).

IMO, even a small oxy acetylene system will be a vast improvement. Get the good regulators that use standard connections and you can always increase your tank sizes later.

I used mine for the first time in years to make some metal stakes to secure a tarp over the basement bulkhead. Made short work of heating up 3/8" steel rod. Made a loop on one end (had already cut the other end to a chisel point) just by heating and bending with a pair of vice grips.

BTW, I have another welding tip that's smaller, which I'll be using for the silver soldering of small items... The cutting attachment/end is also nice to use for most any steel (other than stainless).

I'm beginning to think this O2 tank from AirGas was a bad idea. I got my Drive oxygen regulator shipped to me but it has no connector on the outlet. I've discovered it's a DISS fitting designed to stop morons feeding oxygen patients the wrong gas. That's all well and good but you'd think ONE of the dozens of medical supply stores in this town would have it. Best I've found so far is an online veterinary supplier but they want $15 - half the price of the regulator! Removing the DISS outlet completely didn't help; can't find anything to match that hole either.
So far I've spent $160+ and if I've done my math right the AirGas cylinder, at one brew every 2 months, is going to last me 93 years. If I'd gone the Bernzomatic 02 and NB regulator/oxygenator route I'd be up and running now and I'm sure those red cannisters last long enough.

stevescott123 said:

I'm beginning to think this O2 tank from AirGas was a bad idea. I got my Drive oxygen regulator shipped to me but it has no connector on the outlet. I've discovered it's a DISS fitting designed to stop morons feeding oxygen patients the wrong gas. That's all well and good but you'd think ONE of the dozens of medical supply stores in this town would have it. Best I've found so far is an online veterinary supplier but they want $15 - half the price of the regulator! Removing the DISS outlet completely didn't help; can't find anything to match that hole either.
So far I've spent $160+ and if I've done my math right the AirGas cylinder, at one brew every 2 months, is going to last me 93 years. If I'd gone the Bernzomatic 02 and NB regulator/oxygenator route I'd be up and running now and I'm sure those red cannisters last long enough.

Click to expand...

Shoot me a picture of the regulator... I was able to get a threaded fitting (to barb for the hose) from a welding supply store without issue. I don't think it's a 1/4" MFL thread, I think it's different. I know they had the plastic ones on Amazon, for not a cheap price. After cracking the first one (when clamping the hose on it) I decided that metal was the way to go. Cost me maybe $1 each at the welding supply store...

Golddiggie said:

BTW, silver solder rod is NOT cheap these days. Prices range fro about $130 to $200 per POUND of the stuff. very glad I had some I bought years back (over a decade ago).

Click to expand...

True, but thankfully most places will sell the 45% fluxed rods by the stick for around $12 (at least wholesale, maybe ~$15-18 retail?). Even at that, I'm glad they tend to go farther per stick than most lower grades seem too.

501irishred said:

True, but thankfully most places will sell the 45% fluxed rods by the stick for around $12 (at least wholesale, maybe ~$15-18 retail?). Even at that, I'm glad they tend to go farther per stick than most lower grades seem too.

Click to expand...

Hopefully, once I've gone through the rods I have, I'll have positive income and be able to get a pound at a time. I prefer to not have the flux coated rods since I can then use it for other things. I've used one (wish I hadn't tossed it out now) to act as a whip to aerate my first batches of mead (bent in half, locked into my drill chuck). I've also used them to repair pot list that had the rivets break. Simply cut a piece and peened over the ends so hold tight. Did that back in the late 90's and they still hold it together.

stevescott123 said:

I'm beginning to think this O2 tank from AirGas was a bad idea.

So far I've spent $160+ and if I've done my math right the AirGas cylinder, at one brew every 2 months, is going to last me 93 years. If I'd gone the Bernzomatic 02 and NB regulator/oxygenator route I'd be up and running now and I'm sure those red cannisters last long enough.

Click to expand...

I agree. For probably $60 you could've bought the other setup and be done with it.

Golddiggie said:

Shoot me a picture of the regulator... I was able to get a threaded fitting (to barb for the hose) from a welding supply store without issue. I don't think it's a 1/4" MFL thread, I think it's different. I know they had the plastic ones on Amazon, for not a cheap price. After cracking the first one (when clamping the hose on it) I decided that metal was the way to go. Cost me maybe $1 each at the welding supply store...

Click to expand...

Photos of the Drive regulator.

I will add my 2 cents although this thread has progressed far enough it may not even matter.

#1:

Most commercial breweries use air compressors for inline aeration when transferring beer from kettle to fermenter. If it wasn't sufficient - why would they continue to do it?

#2:

It does not take a lot to condition the air from the compressor. First - you use reinforced beverage tubing - definitely not rubber air compressor hose. Second - you need a cheap coalescing filter to catch any liquid out of the compressor (which shouldn't happen if you use an oil-less and drain regularly). Then you need a HEPA filter - Heyes barbed capsule filter for example @ 0.2um. You only need about 20PSI flow and that is max.

#3:

The benefit of aerating this way is it's absolutely impossible to over-aerate. And it is more than sufficient aeration in most cases - German do it this way and produce some pretty big beers. Conversely, over-aerating with O2 is super simple and there is no good way to measure it.

I aerate with my air compressor - I also have worked in a commercial brewery that does it this way for 15BBL batches. It's fine - so don't get discouraged at all the talk that it's not enough air.

Actually - at VLB (in Berlin) they don't even use anything. They just let the wort splash into the fermenter.

eastoak said:

i would just as soon shake the fermentor than use an air compressor. you will not get more air in there than you will by shaking and the air running through the hose tastes bad. between shaking and pure O2 i went with the pure O2. i think my setup cost me about $140 for the cylinder/regulator (harbor freight) and the stainless aeration wand. the cylinder will last me for hundreds of batches, maybe thousands, i've had it over a yr now and it's still going on the same O2 fill.

Click to expand...

Do you have to exchange your tank or do they fill it? Also, I currently use a home depot o2 tank with a regulator that I found at a home brew shop. The regulator has a small nozzle that I attach my hose and aerator to. How do you connect your hose to the regulator?

Initially you pay for the tank PLUS the fill. When (if) it empties you exchange for a different tank paying only for the fill. I figure mine's going to last 93 years. If you like you can have it when I'm done.

See previous posts regarding connection difficulties..

NMG318 said:

Do you have to exchange your tank or do they fill it? Also, I currently use a home depot o2 tank with a regulator that I found at a home brew shop. The regulator has a small nozzle that I attach my hose and aerator to. How do you connect your hose to the regulator?

Click to expand...

i bought my tank at harbor freight (i have another tank i bought from midwest homebrew supply) and get it refilled at the homebrew shop for $14 so i get the same tank back. i do wonder what the AirGas place around the corner from the homebrew shop would charge for a tank swap and might check out that option next time.

all of my connections screw on and off. i think it's more expensive but worth it for the ease of use.

AirGas Las Vegas 20cf tank $79.19, fill $20.28. Various fees and taxes total $113.53.

jcaudill said:

I will add my 2 cents although this thread has progressed far enough it may not even matter.

#1:

Most commercial breweries use air compressors for inline aeration when transferring beer from kettle to fermenter. If it wasn't sufficient - why would they continue to do it?

#2:

It does not take a lot to condition the air from the compressor. First - you use reinforced beverage tubing - definitely not rubber air compressor hose. Second - you need a cheap coalescing filter to catch any liquid out of the compressor (which shouldn't happen if you use an oil-less and drain regularly). Then you need a HEPA filter - Heyes barbed capsule filter for example @ 0.2um. You only need about 20PSI flow and that is max.

#3:

The benefit of aerating this way is it's absolutely impossible to over-aerate. And it is more than sufficient aeration in most cases - German do it this way and produce some pretty big beers. Conversely, over-aerating with O2 is super simple and there is no good way to measure it.

I aerate with my air compressor - I also have worked in a commercial brewery that does it this way for 15BBL batches. It's fine - so don't get discouraged at all the talk that it's not enough air.

Actually - at VLB (in Berlin) they don't even use anything. They just let the wort splash into the fermenter.

Click to expand...

Ok, so this thread started out helping me answer my question but has turned into a tutorial of how to setup an o2 system (not complaining, just an observation).

I have a 15 gallon compressor and have installed pvc lines running along the top walls of my garage with a few drop downs where I can connect air tools at different places in my garage. I thought of adding one where my keezer was so I could attach a ball lock air connector so I could clean my kegs and keezer every few months ( the 20 min flush with blc). Rather than waste co2, I thought using the compressor was a good idea. until I read this thread that is. Now I have about 30 feet of pvc pipe, plus the hard plastic yellow air line that the air has to go through before it gets to my keezer area. The compressor says oil free. So what are the chances of spraying oil in my kegs while I am flushing with blc?

Second question is can I aerate with this setup? I currently use the thing with the wings that you stick in the carboy and attach to your drill. Don't know how much oxygen is getting in there but after a few minutes I have a crap ton of foam on top.

Oh and I am putting a separate regulator for this line with one of those hepa beer line filters.

BullGator said:

Ok, so this thread started out helping me answer my question but has turned into a tutorial of how to setup an o2 system (not complaining, just an observation).

I have a 15 gallon compressor and have installed pvc lines running along the top walls of my garage with a few drop downs where I can connect air tools at different places in my garage. I thought of adding one where my keezer was so I could attach a ball lock air connector so I could clean my kegs and keezer every few months ( the 20 min flush with blc). Rather than waste co2, I thought using the compressor was a good idea. until I read this thread that is. Now I have about 30 feet of pvc pipe, plus the hard plastic yellow air line that the air has to go through before it gets to my keezer area. The compressor says oil free. So what are the chances of spraying oil in my kegs while I am flushing with blc?

Second question is can I aerate with this setup? I currently use the thing with the wings that you stick in the carboy and attach to your drill. Don't know how much oxygen is getting in there but after a few minutes I have a crap ton of foam on top.

Oh and I am putting a separate regulator for this line with one of those hepa beer line filters.

Click to expand...

i would just shake the fermentor rather than bother with hepa filters and oil free compressors. if i was brewing 20-40 gallon batches that set up might enter the furthest reaches of my irrational mind but then i'd probably end up getting an O2 tank and regulator anyway.

BullGator said:

Ok, so this thread started out helping me answer my question but has turned into a tutorial of how to setup an o2 system (not complaining, just an observation).

I have a 15 gallon compressor and have installed pvc lines running along the top walls of my garage with a few drop downs where I can connect air tools at different places in my garage. I thought of adding one where my keezer was so I could attach a ball lock air connector so I could clean my kegs and keezer every few months ( the 20 min flush with blc). Rather than waste co2, I thought using the compressor was a good idea. until I read this thread that is. Now I have about 30 feet of pvc pipe, plus the hard plastic yellow air line that the air has to go through before it gets to my keezer area. The compressor says oil free. So what are the chances of spraying oil in my kegs while I am flushing with blc?

Second question is can I aerate with this setup? I currently use the thing with the wings that you stick in the carboy and attach to your drill. Don't know how much oxygen is getting in there but after a few minutes I have a crap ton of foam on top.

Oh and I am putting a separate regulator for this line with one of those hepa beer line filters.

Click to expand...

You just need to do what I explained above - you need to have a setup which accomplishes two things:

1) Removal of any liquid matter - coaelscing filter or Kobalt makes this great little cheap filter: http://www.lowes.com/pd_221024-47120-SGY-AIR10_4294813345__.

2) Filtering of the air to a very fine micron level (0.2um). I'll warn you these types of filters are pricey.

And then you just need beverage tubing capable of handling the pressure (which isn't much anyway), and a check valve so beer can't enter it's way back up into the line and filter.

I will say though I'd minimize if possible the amount of tubing (other than the beverage tubing) the air has to travel through before hitting this setup just to minimize any extra junk getting into the line.

It really is a very simple deal. I use air for aeration, but also to blow liquid out of my pumps and tubing when I'm done. You definitely can use it to clean kegs but you need to use it filtered as well, and you don't want to leave it in the keg. Your final blanket should be CO2.

HTH.

I'm trying not to be disappointed but I am surprised. I brewed yesterday and oxynated for the first time after a long journey to get equipped. It was at least 9hrs to fermentation activity and the bubbles though regular are not as vigorous as I am used to. I even put a blow off tube in expecting more drama but quickly went back to an airlock.

Oxygen is supposed to shorten the lag time and create a vigorous fermentation...

Oxygen was 1 min at 1L/min and I moved the stone around the bucket throughout. Bucket is in a temp controlled fridge locked at 69-70F. Brew is NB's Caribou Slobber.

The quickest and strongest fermentation I have seen to date was with my last brew where I used an electric whisk to beat some air in before pitching...

There are a lot of factors besides aeration that can account for this as well for example:

- Strain of yeast
- Generation of yeast
- Temperatures*****

I wouldn't exclusively blame it on the aeration.

Fair comment but it's the only thing that's changed compared to my last brew. Actually my temperature changed but for the better. I have a 2 stage controller on a fridge with a heater and temp is far more stable than it ever was in my home.

Yeast is a relatively fresh batch of Wyeast refrigerated on arrival and then a starter made a day prior - same as before.

Non foaming sanitizer in the airlock makes for a calmer bubble perhaps.

Should I oxygenate more/longer?

Proof will be in a couple of months I guess. Come to think of it I've worried about at least one aspect of all my brews to date. They're all drinkable!

i just think even with care it's too hard to really say. But - what you can do is try to rouse the yeast a bit and see if that helps. You may have to do this by shaking if you can't inject a little CO2 directly.

If your activity is slow and steady I'd just let it go. If it stops prematurely though then you may need more aeration.

If you don't want to use O2 and you don't want to use an aquarium pump or oil-free compressor, you can use an electric drill powered paint mixer. They are <$10 at HD and you don't have to pick up your carboy or plastic fermenter to shake it. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All

I have two air compressors: one is a small oil-free model just like the one pictured earlier and the other is a oiled model that I would never, never, never consider using for my beer. For now, I can easily sanitize my paint mixer and get pretty good results.

limulus said:

If you don't want to use O2 and you don't want to use an aquarium pump or oil-free compressor, you can use an electric drill powered paint mixer. They are <$10 at HD and you don't have to pick up your carboy or plastic fermenter to shake it. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=paint%20stirrer&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All

I have two air compressors: one is a small oil-free model just like the one pictured earlier and the other is a oiled model that I would never, never, never consider using for my beer. For now, I can easily sanitize my paint mixer and get pretty good results.

Click to expand...

So do you use the oil-free compressor to aerate? If so, can you explain your setup?

No, I don't. It never even occurred to me that it was even a possibility until I saw this thread yesterday. I bought the 2HP 8gal model when I was building our home theater in the basement. It is now delegated to keeping air in our tires and the occasional job such as building my keezer. The little oil-free model was bought to use at our lake house. But I found out it was just not big enough for filling boat toys. Since it does not generate pure oxygen, I think I can get just as much into my wort using the paint mixer and the cordless drill.

lamarguy said:

I've been using compressed air to aerate <= 1.070 wort. Works great. Pure oxygen is necessary > 1.070.

Click to expand...

Care to elaborate on this? I've taken 1.105 wort down to 1.014 just last month using nothing but stirring and dropping the wort into the fermenter from a couple feet up, splashing it.

You do not need pure o2, or even forced aeration, for everything over 1.070.