My Ugly Junk- Corona Mill Station...

loud1 said:

If you want good speed control use a cheap corded drill and a router speed controller from Harbor Freight or something similar. Then you can use a nylon zip tie to activate the trigger on the drill, be sure to secure the drill from spinning before letting it go or it could get really messy.

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The pictured drill has an RPM dial, set to "low", and a trigger-lock. 10A 1/2" slow-speed D-handle drill, Harbor Freight, $34.

tre9er said:

The pictured drill has an RPM dial, set to "low", and a trigger-lock. 10A 1/2" slow-speed D-handle drill, Harbor Freight, $34.

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That works too.

Thought I would post mine. Been done for a few months and I use I drill. works great!

I need to tweak mine. A 2# hopper is the pits!!!!! Luckily I know some scroungers and I have a soy sauce bucket from work to sacrifice. A couple of #10 cans too.

CHefJohnboyardee said:

I need to tweak mine. A 2# hopper is the pits!!!!! Luckily I know some scroungers and I have a soy sauce bucket from work to sacrifice. A couple of #10 cans too.

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I highly recommend the water-dispenser-bottle. 16# in it Saturday no problem.

I have found new empty water dispenser bottles at Wal-Mart for $7.00 or so, but not every Wal-Mart has them, only the ones that sell water dispensers.

Has anybody ever used something besides a power drill to run their corona mill? I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a mill, and I have access to a 1/2 HP, 1725 RPM Franklin Martin motor for free. I was thinking that I could pick up one of these to vary the RPM's for the mill:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JHQ3G8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The motor is wired for 110V, and the case says it runs 6.8 amps max at 110V.

A positive of the motor is that I could also use it if I ever upgraded to a roller mill.

I'm not sure if that controller would succesfully slow down that motor to an acceptable range. My opinion and experience is that it is easier and cheaper to use a harbor freight 1/2 drill to power a mill, rather than a free motor after buying all that is needed to make it work. Of course, YMMV

BeardedIdiot said:

Has anybody ever used something besides a power drill to run their corona mill? I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a mill, and I have access to a 1/2 HP, 1725 RPM Franklin Martin motor for free. I was thinking that I could pick up one of these to vary the RPM's for the mill:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JHQ3G8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The motor is wired for 110V, and the case says it runs 6.8 amps max at 110V.

A positive of the motor is that I could also use it if I ever upgraded to a roller mill.

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So long as your RPM's are below about 300, it should be fine. Make sure you'll have enough HP at the lower RPM's so you don't burn the motor. Lots of people use motors. The drill was as easy as spending $34 and chucking a nut-driver. It has a speed dial built-in and trigger lock.

tre9er said:

So long as your RPM's are below about 300, it should be fine. Make sure you'll have enough HP at the lower RPM's so you don't burn the motor. Lots of people use motors. The drill was as easy as spending $34 and chucking a nut-driver. It has a speed dial built-in and trigger lock.

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Well, considering the motor is free, its $28 for the variable RPM switch, or skip the motor and buy a $34 Harbor Freight drill (none of my current drills lock).

Plus I think there would be something nice and ugly about using a motor that's 3-4 times the size of the mill its running...

I have to stop reading the DIY section, first i was "forced" to build a pneumatic bottle capper now your making me power a corona style mill with a motor! What are you going to make me do next?

BeardedIdiot said:

Plus I think there would be something nice and ugly about using a motor that's 3-4 times the size of the mill its running...

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+1 isnt that what this thread is sposed to be about? lol nice and ugly

loud1 said:

I have to stop reading the DIY section, first i was "forced" to build a pneumatic bottle capper now your making me power a corona style mill with a motor! What are you going to make me do next?

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Build a keezer if you don't have one already.....Then an electric brewing setup.

Haven't you figured it out yet, half the fun is the DIY aspect, and there's always another project on the horizon.

BeardedIdiot said:

Well, considering the motor is free, its $28 for the variable RPM switch, or skip the motor and buy a $34 Harbor Freight drill (none of my current drills lock).

Plus I think there would be something nice and ugly about using a motor that's 3-4 times the size of the mill its running...

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$28 variable RPM switch
$ ?? cord
$ ?? coupling to attach motor to mill
$ ?? misc. hardware

This option is far from free...Just my opinion, but the HF drill at $34 is a value for something that you know will work. Will that motor provide enough torque at low RPM's to turn the mill? Not all motors are variable speed, but are typically gear reduced to run slow w/ adequate torque. Not trying to rain on the party...have fun whichever course you choose.

wilserbrewer said:

$28 variable RPM switch
$ ?? cord
$ ?? coupling to attach motor to mill
$ ?? misc. hardware

This option is far from free...Just my opinion, but the HF drill at $34 is a value for something that you know will work. Will that motor provide enough torque at low RPM's to turn the mill? Not all motors are variable speed, but are typically gear reduced to run slow w/ adequate torque. Not trying to rain on the party...have fun whichever course you choose.

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The motor is already corded, just have to plug it into the variable RPM switch. I have plenty of misc. hardware laying around the garage to attach the mill and motor to whatever substrate I want.

The only thing I would need to worry about is how to connect the motor to the mill. I don't know exactly what I would use for that, but I could probably find something to fit that wasn't too expensive.

I'm not trying to avoid buying the drill, I just have this motor available to me for free and was seeing if it was feasible to use it.

I finally reworked mine into a bucket in bucket setup. The original wasn't bad, I mainly just wanted a bigger hopper.

I've done about 3 batches with the bucket in bucket. Between the larger hopper and the dust being eliminates, I love this design.

I added a couple of chunks of scrap wood to space the mill bucket up from the lower bucket just enough to keep one from sticking inside the other. It just so happened that these lined up with the mounting board for the mill, so I just stuck them in place with my finish nailer.

The only issue you'll have with that is if you need to hand-crank if for any reason. I have mine so I can attach the crank outside the bucket (the mill shaft sticks through the bucket) because I had my old drill die on me once.

tre9er said:

The only issue you'll have with that is if you need to hand-crank if for any reason. I have mine so I can attach the crank outside the bucket (the mill shaft sticks through the bucket) because I had my old drill die on me once.

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Shouldn't be a problem. I've got multiple drills, and several other methods of spinning it.

Yep, an old hand-drill or a ratchet would work fine.

autobaun70 said:

Shouldn't be a problem. I've got multiple drills, and several other methods of spinning it.

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This is me. I have 3 drill motors and a couple routers that I could even use if I wanted to. Heck, for that matter I also have a few electric motors that could get the job done. I will NOT hand crank! :rockin:

Stauffbier said:

This is me. I have 3 drill motors and a couple routers that I could even use if I wanted to. Heck, for that matter I also have a few electric motors that could get the job done. I will NOT hand crank! :rockin:

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Hell, I like simple, but I am lazy. I will fire up one of my generators to avoid hand cranking. Or give a high school kid a $20 bill. I'm not cranking.

Here is mine all shiny and new.

I elected to mount it so I could use the handle if needed



The extra hopper is a boiler draft hood I had laying around. I think I might add some sheetmetal at the screws in the bucket to reinforce it.

Revvy said:

Build a keezer if you don't have one already.....Then an electric brewing setup.

Haven't you figured it out yet, half the fun is the DIY aspect, and there's always another project on the horizon.

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I'm going to keep my setup simple for now, I've installed a filtered water supply in my basement for brew water and the water cooler for that matter, built a pneumatic bottle capper, made an immersion wort chiller. Projects on the horizon, motorizing a corona mill with an electric window motor, it's worm drive w/plenty of torque, counter flow wort chiller, mash tun, and maybe a rolling brewstand to make brewday setup easier.

It's a small list but I'm working 2 jobs and I don't have time for much else.

loud1 said:

... Projects on the horizon, motorizing a corona mill with an electric window motor, it's worm drive w/plenty of torque, ...

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Like an automotive power window motor? Got a source or recommendation? I had been trying to locate a windshield wiper motor but most of them seem borderline in terms of torque.

loud1 said:

... It's a small list but I'm working 2 jobs and I don't have time for much else.

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I know that feeling. AT least my second job is at the LHBS, man I beat up that employee discount.

camiller said:

Like an automotive power window motor? Got a source or recommendation? I had been trying to locate a windshield wiper motor but most of them seem borderline in terms of torque.



I know that feeling. AT least my second job is at the LHBS, man I beat up that employee discount.

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I got the power window motor from surpluscenter.com but they seem to be out of them, I'll probably burn it up anyway since it isn't 100% duty cycle.

camiller said:

Like an automotive power window motor? Got a source or recommendation? I had been trying to locate a windshield wiper motor but most of them seem borderline in terms of torque.

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I *think* I've read about guys using big-rig windshield motors.

I've got an older garage door opener laying around from when I bought my house and changed it out. Motor still works fine. I'll have to see if I can rig it up to run the corona once I finally order it.

BeardedIdiot said:

I've got an older garage door opener laying around from when I bought my house and changed it out. Motor still works fine. I'll have to see if I can rig it up to run the corona once I finally order it.

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If you maintain use of the garage remote to start it...well that, sir, would be epic.

Heh. I do still have the garage button, and the wireless car remote. The garage button has got like 20+ feet of wire attached to it... I could operate it from anywhere in the garage, or even from the basement...

wilserbrewer said:

I'm not sure if that controller would succesfully slow down that motor to an acceptable range. My opinion and experience is that it is easier and cheaper to use a harbor freight 1/2 drill to power a mill, rather than a free motor after buying all that is needed to make it work. Of course, YMMV

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I endorse this. I have daydreamed about putting a gearmotor on my setup, but it takes me maybe 10 minutes to grind the biggest batch I make, and setting up and tearing down the ugly junk maybe another 5.....I have no trouble investing 15 minutes in this process. Now If I were to go completely beyond what's allowed and brewed 50 batches a year, that might be another story. But in the meantime, my antique Craftsman 1/2" drill serves the purpose: K.I.S.S.

tre9er said:

I *think* I've read about guys using big-rig windshield motors.

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Yeah, you have read that in another thread here. So have I. I just don't have access to spare wiper motors from semi tractors. I think that the wiper motor that monsterguts sells for animating Halloween decorations might have enough oomph to do it. I just don't have a torque wrench to check how much torque it takes to turn the mill, with grain in it.

camiller said:

Yeah, you have read that in another thread here. So have I. I just don't have access to spare wiper motors from semi tractors. I think that the wiper motor that monsterguts sells for animating Halloween decorations might have enough oomph to do it. I just don't have a torque wrench to check how much torque it takes to turn the mill, with grain in it.

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Here's a figure: A LOT. I conditioned my malt this weekend and the drill had a hard time starting (10A, 1/2" drill) on slow speed. Had to crank speed up to keep it going. Dry grain takes less, but it does take some beef on these since they're grinding rather than just squeezing.

tre9er said:

Here's a figure: A LOT. I conditioned my malt this weekend and the drill had a hard time starting (10A, 1/2" drill) on slow speed. Had to crank speed up to keep it going. Dry grain takes less, but it does take some beef on these since they're grinding rather than just squeezing.

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Yeah, but when I turn it by hand it doesn't seem like it takes much force. I really want to figure out a way to get a rough measurement before I drop the coin on a motor that might not work. Hmmmm..... I have a digital handheld luggage scale. I could connect that to the handle of the mill and pull it around then do the math from there. That ought to get me close. I've also thought about taking the motor out of one of those harbor freight drills and figuring out a way to mount it. More ideas than time.

camiller said:

Yeah, you have read that in another thread here. So have I. I just don't have access to spare wiper motors from semi tractors. I think that the wiper motor that monsterguts sells for animating Halloween decorations might have enough oomph to do it. I just don't have a torque wrench to check how much torque it takes to turn the mill, with grain in it.

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Those big semi wiper motors are readily available from junked trucks online....and it's not like I don't have a gigantic 12VDC power supply. It's just that I don't want the level of complexity that would go into that kind of installation.

camiller said:

Yeah, but when I turn it by hand it doesn't seem like it takes much force. I really want to figure out a way to get a rough measurement before I drop the coin on a motor that might not work. Hmmmm..... I have a digital handheld luggage scale. I could connect that to the handle of the mill and pull it around then do the math from there. That ought to get me close. I've also thought about taking the motor out of one of those harbor freight drills and figuring out a way to mount it. More ideas than time.

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I can break a bolt loose easier than my drill, too...but I tire faster

beernut70 said:

I think I might add some sheetmetal at the screws in the bucket to reinforce it.

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Looks to me like:

1. Homer bucket is thin plastic and maybe a bit flimsy
2. The screws look to close together, try spacing the screws as far apart as possible...even it you have to angle them and they will support the mill better.

wilserbrewer said:

Looks to me like:

1. Homer bucket is thin plastic and maybe a bit flimsy
2. The screws look to close together, try spacing the screws as far apart as possible...even it you have to angle them and they will support the mill better.

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The homer bucket is pretty flimsy. I used deck screws which have a pretty small head and I am a bit worried they will pull through over time. I have some pan head screws to change them out with and maybe add some sheetmetal. The mill is supported ok I tried tipping the bucket and everything and it doesn't move.

I went with your design so if I get a water bottle for a hopper all I have to do is get a new lid.

beernut70 said:

The homer bucket is pretty flimsy. I used deck screws which have a pretty small head and I am a bit worried they will pull through over time. I have some pan head screws to change them out with and maybe add some sheetmetal. The mill is supported ok I tried tipping the bucket and everything and it doesn't move.

I went with your design so if I get a water bottle for a hopper all I have to do is get a new lid.

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A couple of washers should be more than enough to keep them from tearing through the bucket.

Here is my revision. I didn't have any washers on hand small enough so I used some 24 GA sheet metal. Hemmed over the short sides so that when the screws tightened they wouldn't distort the metal and leave any sharp edges. This is so solid I could probably stand on the mill. Plus it adds some junk to it. ;-)

beernut70 said:

Here is my revision. I didn't have any washers on hand small enough so I used some 24 GA sheet metal. Hemmed over the short sides so that when the screws tightened they wouldn't distort the metal and leave any sharp edges. This is so solid I could probably stand on the mill. Plus it adds some junk to it. ;-)

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You've got my favorite tool next to your bucket there. I can do just about anything with a set of channel locks. I'm still just clamping my drill on a 2x4 and setting it on the top of a homer bucket. After revisiting this thread I'll have to change that.