using a mill for cracking grain in kits

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

markz

Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Boston
I've done a few 5 gal. kits now that indicate the grain should be cracked before steeping in muslin cloth bags at various points in the boil. I've been using a wooden rolling pin and a cutting board, which turns out to be bad for a number of reasons; it puts dimples in the rolling pin, it's really slow, it's a PITA, it doesn't do a very good/consistent job, etc.

I've read through a few of the threads about the corona (/victoria/gorilla) mills and am thinking about getting one since the price seems right for my scale. My question is if that would apply to my situation or not. Most of the discussion in those threads revolve around guys doing all grain brews in large batches. They also refer to the efficiency (which I can't seem to find defined anywhere in the wiki or forum) being affected by the consistency/quality of the grind. Since I don't even know what efficiency is, I don't think this would apply to me (until I do an AG).

Should I just get one and open up the plates to crack the grain and not get a really fine flour? Is there a better method to do what I'm trying to do?

-Z
 
Corona type mills have adjustable grinding plates which would work for just cracking the grains as well. I haven't done a partial mash in a very long time, so as for how much the grain needs to be cracked, I have no idea.

As for efficiency, when used in the context of all grain brewing, the finer the grain is crushed the higher the efficiency, but at a cost of risking a stuck sparge or producing tannins. Efficiency is how much of the available sugars have been extracted from the grain.
 
Yes, a Corona-type is great for extract with specialty grains. Efficiency isn't a concern because the specialty grains are only there for flavor. Set as coarse as you can, the goal is to break each grain into 3-4 pieces.
 
And since Charlie Papazian gets 87% percent efficiency with his dialed in Corona, that isn't even an issue in the future.

But with all the extract w/steeping grains and PM recipes I ever had filled at my LHBS, they ran the grain through the same large hopper Barley Crusher they use for the AG recipes, and never adjusted the gap...the "crush" was really the same whether I was steeping or not.
 
I am also brewing extract kits with specialty grains and wonder just how "cracked" the grains need to be to get the flavor they are supposed to add. It isn't real convenient to get down to the LHBS and get it milled so I have just been using the rolling pin method. I put the grains in a heavy duty zip-lock and go at it for about 5 minutes. Is that enough, too much? Inquiring minds want to know...
 
Yes, a Corona-type is great for extract with specialty grains. Efficiency isn't a concern because the specialty grains are only there for flavor. Set as coarse as you can, the goal is to break each grain into 3-4 pieces.

This sounds like sound advice - it makes sense in my realm of newbism.

I just started an extract Oktoberfest (a little late, but hey), and it took me about half an hour to crush it all. It wasn't as bad as last time, I think because there was some crystal and some chocolate which crack open pretty easily. The pale I "roasted" in the oven for 10 minutes before crushing and it was pretty easy going too. The Munich is the only one that took a little extra effort.

I just can't picture opening the box, cutting open the 5 little baggies inside and asking them to crush 1.75 lbs for me. I'm pretty set to order a corona or cheap knockoff version for my next batch (extract IPA). It's cheap enough and gadgety enough, and I certainly plan on doing an all grain in the not too distant future.

Thanks for all the responses. :mug:

-Z
 
I just ask my LHBS to crush my grains when I buy them. My LHBS doesn't charge for that option, as long as I purchase the grains at their stock points (usually 500g or 2kg, depending on the grain). I've seen mail-order shops charge up to $1.75 for the service, though, and if they're charging that for a pound of grain, I'd consider getting a mill. If that's the charge for 50lb of two / six row barley, that's up to you.
 
You might have already read this one,but:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-ugly-junk-corona-mill-station-90849/

page 15 is the one Markz. I am going to build mine exactly like wilserbrewer did his. I got the Grizzly from grizzly.com (I think it was). Thirty bucks out the door (shipping included). I have everything I need at the house already, just taking up space.

I decided to do this after a bud of mine was talking about it. Did research from my 2 LHBS's if you buy a fifty lb. American 2 Row Malt it is about 50 bucks. Paying for anything under 50 lbs. it would cost 75 bucks when you get to the same fifty pounds. I am going to start with the 2 row, and eventually get to having most of my grains comming out of a fifty pound bucket. Another thing I have found out is that uncrushed grain will last a year...crushed grain needs to be used a soon as possible for freshness.

Hope this helps. :mug:
 
Yup - that's one of the main ones I've been reading recently. I think I'll start off hand turning the mill since I don't really have all that much to crush in these kits. Those are some pretty slick setups though.

I've been holding off on all grain, and lately I've been wondering why, exactly. I need to do some more reading, get through Oktoberfest, and then I'll probably give it a go.

-Z
 
I got a Food Saver - vacuum bag thingy from WallyWorld - I seal excess cracked grains and whole grains and toss 'em in the fridge - some for months and months, depending on what I'm brewing.
 
If you buy fifty pounds of uncrushed, air-conditioning is enough, right? They sit like that in the LHBS. Of course they move a lot faster at the store.
 
Back
Top