Question about a copper manifold

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ChandlerBang

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What is the best way to drill or cut a copper manifold for an MLT? I think holes small enough would be annoying to drill, but how many effin slots would I have to cut for that to work? A million? I'm planning on using 1/2 copper and then slot the bottom half or third I guess. Thoughts?
 
I just built a 1/2" copper manifold (48 qt rectangular cooler) a few weeks ago, and I used a standard hacksaw to cut slots. I made the cuts every 1/2" on the long pipes only (Palmer's book said this spacing would be sufficient). As long as you have a good way of clamping the pipe down while you're cutting, it shouldn't take too long. I have not used the MLT yet, so I can't comment on how it works.
 
A dremel tool with a cut-off wheel would zip through it like a dream. Just use a larger one so your not putting them in at 45 dgree angles
 
I did both of mine (5 gal. Rubbermaid and 100 qt rectangular) with a hack saw while watching TV. I have a dremel, but since the hack saw is slower, it's more controllable in my hands. Plus, the slits are a little bit wider, which fits my personal bias. My cuts are 2-4 mm apart. It was quite a few nights of TV. Works well, FWIW.
 
Im going to be doing this soon myself... does anyone have a link for the best hardware to get as far as a valve? Also, what do you use to hold the copper together? Solder probably isn't best right?
 
I am thinking about reworking my 5 gallon water cooler MLT with copper tubing. My plan is to drill fairly large holes and sleeve it with stainless braid. It's still a bazooka tube style but will be a fixed coil covering nearly the whole bottom of the MLT.
 
Im going to be doing this soon myself... does anyone have a link for the best hardware to get as far as a valve? Also, what do you use to hold the copper together? Solder probably isn't best right?

My parts are held together by friction fit, you can solder or not. Some folks tap (just a tap!) the end of the pipe to bend it a little so the friction fit is tighter, I didn't bother.
The type of valve is your choice. I've used just a plain old tubing clamp to pinch the tubing shut, no per se valve.
 
Make sure to use "lead free" solder. I have so many fittings in mine that I think it will be difficult to manage without some of the connections soldered. I'm going to make a DIY thread when it is done.
 
On my 5 gallon cooler I did it with a hand hacksaw. Took a good 2-3 hours to build the whole thing and my hands were like rubber when I was done, sucked. I spaced them about 1/4. On my 10 gallon cooler I used a dremel with the same spacing and it only took about 1-2 hours and that included boiling the pipes and attaching it to my MT. You can pick up a dremel at Home Depot for around $70.00 I didn't solder anything for easy cleaning.
 
Use a shotgun. that should put a bunch of holes in it real fast! If your going to use a hack saw it would be nice to build a cutting box so you can easily cut without worring about how deep you go. Dont worry about it taking awhile. It is better to spend a little effort for something that will be exactly what you want and will last you a long time
 
I used a pipe cutting tool to put the slots in mine. Only takes a few seconds per slot, just don't go all the way around the pipe.
 
i used a metal blade on my bandsaw to cut my slits...about every 3/8" or so, doesnt have to be exact, took about 10 mins to cute @150 slots.....no solder on the joints either, makes cleaning a breeze.
 
I drilled mine and it took a little while and is very sloppy looking but no ones see the bottom besides me and right after I finished I had the great idea to use my band saw so maybe next time and I solder the lines above the water line to aid in siphoning
 
I'm surprised that nobody has brought up a jig saw.

I used one with a metal blade, and it made really quick work of the process. It gives you the control of the hacksaw without having to do it all by hand.
 
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