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I'm trying to start formulating my own recipes and i'm just looking for some reassurance. I figure i'll start with the Mr. Beer extract cans and add some steeping grains and/or additional extract along with some pellet hops.

The Mr. Beer cans of UME/HME are approx 1.5lbs of liquid extract. From what I've read online, it seems like the average ppg for liquid extract is 34. Is this a good average number? It seems to make sense when you do the formula for one of their 'standard' recipes:

1.5lbs LME (1 can) = (34ppg x 1.5lbs) / 2 gallons = 25.5 points
0.8lbs Corn Sugar = (46ppg x 0.8lbs) / 2 gallons = 18.4 points
Total Points----------------------------------- = 43.9

Starting Gravity (approx) ---------------------- = 1.044
Batch Size: 2.13 gallons

^ This seem ok? If so, then I might be looking at my first 'custom' 2 gallon recipe to be something simple like this:

1.5 lbs LME (Hopped Pale Ale)
2.0 lbs Crystal 40L (Steeped)
Starting Gravity: ~1.048

1/2oz Nugget @ 60 mins
1/4oz Willamette @ 30 mins
1/4oz Willamette @ 5 mins

Third question - how much boil-off will I see? If I boil 2 gallons of water for an hour - it'll definitely be less than 2 gallons when i'm through. If increase the starting amount to say, 2.5 gallons, should I be adding more fermentables? 1/4 or 1/2 lb of brown sugar maybe?

Thanks for any help or comments :)
 
So, looks pretty good to me!

My rule of thumb for liquid extract is: you don't want *less* than 1.1 lb per gallon, UNLESS you are using additional sugars (honey, specialty grains, packets from McDonalds... etc.) Doing as much partial mash as you are, relative to the recipe, I think you should be fine.

How much boil-off you can expect is an open question, every setup is slightly different.

Your changed volume won't affect your sugars, quite so much as it will affect your hop utilization. You'll just have to experiment, then after you know the boil-off you should be able to calculate the IBUs. Considering that your malt extract is ALREADY hopped, I don't know that I would go with quite so long of boils with the fresh hops you are adding. You can never get "boiled hops" out of beer, but if you overdo it with aroma hops you can wait 'em out while the beer ages. ;)

So, it looks good, but I would seriously consider scaling back the hops boil, and you'll know your boil-off after it happens.
 
Justibone said:
So, looks pretty good to me!

My rule of thumb for liquid extract is: you don't want *less* than 1.1 lb per gallon, UNLESS you are using additional sugars (honey, specialty grains, packets from McDonalds... etc.) Doing as much partial mash as you are, relative to the recipe, I think you should be fine.

How much boil-off you can expect is an open question, every setup is slightly different.

Your changed volume won't affect your sugars, quite so much as it will affect your hop utilization. You'll just have to experiment, then after you know the boil-off you should be able to calculate the IBUs. Considering that your malt extract is ALREADY hopped, I don't know that I would go with quite so long of boils with the fresh hops you are adding. You can never get "boiled hops" out of beer, but if you overdo it with aroma hops you can wait 'em out while the beer ages. ;)

So, it looks good, but I would seriously consider scaling back the hops boil, and you'll know your boil-off after it happens.
Click to expand...

So maybe I should half the boil times or half the amount of hops i'm using?

Thanks!!
 
Slider46 said:
So maybe I should half the boil times or half the amount of hops i'm using?

Thanks!!
Click to expand...

Of those two options, I would reduce the boil times.

How hoppy do you like your beer? And by hoppy, I mean, 1) how bitter, and 2) how aromatic?

1) Bitter = long boil
2) Aromatic = short (or no) boil

The aroma of hops is called "floral", but to me it smells like a bush or something. *shrug* Anyways, I know I like it, but I don't like the bitter. The pre-hopped stuff is already plenty bitter in my opinion, so if it were me I'd err on the side of aroma and dry-hop with the entire 1 oz.

But if you like a bitter beer (the opposite of "malty"), then boiling hops is your key.

I can't make a truly informed suggestion b/c I don't know the IBUs of the extract you're using. If you can figure that out somewhere, somehow, and then calculate how many IBUs you want more than that from the hops, then go for it.

If not, like I said -- I'd err on the side of "aroma". But that's just my $.02! :mug:
 
Justibone said:
Of those two options, I would reduce the boil times.

How hoppy do you like your beer? And by hoppy, I mean, 1) how bitter, and 2) how aromatic?

1) Bitter = long boil
2) Aromatic = short (or no) boil

The aroma of hops is called "floral", but to me it smells like a bush or something. *shrug* Anyways, I know I like it, but I don't like the bitter. The pre-hopped stuff is already plenty bitter in my opinion, so if it were me I'd err on the side of aroma and dry-hop with the entire 1 oz.

But if you like a bitter beer (the opposite of "malty"), then boiling hops is your key.

I can't make a truly informed suggestion b/c I don't know the IBUs of the extract you're using. If you can figure that out somewhere, somehow, and then calculate how many IBUs you want more than that from the hops, then go for it.

If not, like I said -- I'd err on the side of "aroma". But that's just my $.02! :mug:
Click to expand...

I like a good IPA but I don't think i'm to the point where I can make a "good" IPA :eek:

I'm just going for a balanced pale ale on this one. Oh, also - can I dry hop in the primary? (which is all I have)
 
Slider46 said:
I like a good IPA but I don't think i'm to the point where I can make a "good" IPA
Click to expand...

At first it's not about making a "good" anything; it's about making the best anything that *you* can make. ;)

Don't shy away just because you're intimidated or whatever. If you aim for the sky, and miss, you'll still hit higher than you would aiming right for the ground from the beginning.

I'm just going for a balanced pale ale on this one. Oh, also - can I dry hop in the primary? (which is all I have)
Click to expand...

Yes, you can. Just be careful at bottling time not to get little bits of hop in the bottles, but if you do, it will just settle out with the yeast, probably. Use a hop bag to be sure.
 
Justibone said:
At first it's not about making a "good" anything; it's about making the best anything that *you* can make. ;)

Don't shy away just because you're intimidated or whatever. If you aim for the sky, and miss, you'll still hit higher than you would aiming right for the ground from the beginning.



Yes, you can. Just be careful at bottling time not to get little bits of hop in the bottles, but if you do, it will just settle out with the yeast, probably. Use a hop bag to be sure.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the encouragement :D

Here's my refined recipe:

Moved to Recipes Section
 
I drooled a bit, reading your recipe. ;)

I think you'll be happy with the Williamette.

You might shock yourself with this beer -- it could be that good -- so make sure to set a few bottles back. I suggest that you try one or two bottles after letting it age for at least 60 days in the bottle. Some of the aroma will fade, but the beer beneath the aroma might really mature and be something delicious.

Looks great! Enjoy it. :D
 
Justibone said:
I drooled a bit, reading your recipe. ;)

I think you'll be happy with the Williamette.

You might shock yourself with this beer -- it could be that good -- so make sure to set a few bottles back. I suggest that you try one or two bottles after letting it age for at least 60 days in the bottle. Some of the aroma will fade, but the beer beneath the aroma might really mature and be something delicious.

Looks great! Enjoy it. :D
Click to expand...

I posted this in the recipe section and one person mentioned that you should never have more than 20% of the fermentable sugars coming from crystal. Any reasoning for that?

This person said that 20% was the absolute max - you seem to think it'll work out just fine the way I have it setup now.

:confused:
 
Slider46 said:
I posted this in the recipe section and one person mentioned that you should never have more than 20% of the fermentable sugars coming from crystal. Any reasoning for that?

This person said that 20% was the absolute max - you seem to think it'll work out just fine the way I have it setup now.

:confused:
Click to expand...

A 1/2 pound of Crystal is all you will need to get excellent mouthfeel from MrBeer for their recipe's as long as you keep the steep under 170 degrees to avoid extracting harsh tannins. Check it out with:

http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator

http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe
 
Ok.. I'm not getting paranoid or freaked out. I just don't know because this is my first batch.

I brewed a Mr. Beer's Irish Stout with a can of Pale Malt Extract instead of their booster. It's been in the fermenter for 18 days. This Tuesday will be the 21st day.

I don't have a hydrometer. So, I didn't take a gravity reading.

Due to time constraints, I probably won't bottle it on Tuesday. I'll probably bottle it on Friday or Saturday.

I can see little patches of bubbles on top of it.

From what I read, two weeks in the bottle should be the minimum for a stout. ??

Btw, it tastes pretty good.

Thanks,
E
 
Slider46 said:
Thanks for the encouragement :D

Here's my refined recipe:

No Name Pale Ale

Malts
  • 1.5 lbs LME (Hopped Pale Ale)
  • 2.0 lbs Crystal 40L (Steeped 30mins @ 160 F)
  • 0.5 lbs Crystal 60L (Steeped 30mins @ 160 F)

Hops
  • ½ oz Nugget @ 30mins
  • ¼ oz Willamette @ 10mins
  • ½ oz Willamette For Dry Hopping

Specs
  • Starting Gravity: 1.052
  • Yeast: Safale US-05 (6 grams)
  • Batch Size: 2.13 Gallons
  • Fermentation: 10-12 Days @ 65-66 F
  • Dry Hop In Primary for 7-10 days
  • Priming Solution + Bottle Carbination
Click to expand...

I'm not sure where you got 1.5 lbs for a Mr Beer HME. They're 550 g or 1.21 lbs.

When I use a 2.13 gallon batch, 1.21 lbs of HME and steeping instead of mashing, I get an estimated starting gravity of 1.040 instead of the 1.052 you get. Even if you mash instead of steep, you're not likely to get great efficiency for your first attempt. I'm not trying to discourage you, just trying to set expectations. You're expecting an ABV of about 5.2%, but you'll probably be closer to 4%.
 
bpgreen said:
I'm not sure where you got 1.5 lbs for a Mr Beer HME. They're 550 g or 1.21 lbs.

When I use a 2.13 gallon batch, 1.21 lbs of HME and steeping instead of mashing, I get an estimated starting gravity of 1.040 instead of the 1.052 you get. Even if you mash instead of steep, you're not likely to get great efficiency for your first attempt. I'm not trying to discourage you, just trying to set expectations. You're expecting an ABV of about 5.2%, but you'll probably be closer to 4%.
Click to expand...

I realize that now. I changed the recipe around and posted in the recipes section.

Thanks for your help :)
 
Well, others have more experience than I do with grains, however, I don't see the problem with extra crystal in there. In one sense, sugar is sugar -- but there are other considerations of course. Maybe they are talking about some arcane all-grain mythology, or maybe there's actually a good reason... unless they explain themselves you'll never know! ;)
 
Justibone said:
Well, others have more experience than I do with grains, however, I don't see the problem with extra crystal in there. In one sense, sugar is sugar -- but there are other considerations of course. Maybe they are talking about some arcane all-grain mythology, or maybe there's actually a good reason... unless they explain themselves you'll never know! ;)
Click to expand...

This link expresses what I would explain ;)
http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2009/03/22/steeping-grains-for-extract-beer-brewing/
Steeped grains will add very few fermentables to any extract brew.
 
Hey,

I just bought a 3 pack of Mr. from Amazon for $29 and was wondering what type of malt extract should I pair with the kits. Dark? Pale? Light? ??

High Country (Canadian Draft)
Whispering Wheat (Weizenbier)
Octoberfest (Vienna Lager)

I'm planning on using the LME in addition to the booster to give a higher abv.

Thanks,
E
 
Personally I only use dry malt when it comes to extracts. I would add 1 pound DME to each recipe.

For the Canadian and the Lager, I would use Light or Extra Light (sometimes called Pilsen). And you could use either the ones listed or a Wheat DME for the Wheat.

DarK extracts tend to add malts you may or may not want in a recipe, that's why I stay with the Light and Extra Lights. They will work fine, even in a dark recipe.
Also maybe steep some Crystal 60 or so, in the Draft. You'll love what it adds.
 
Thanks for the info Tim..

That's exactly what I was looking for. I'm going to start with the Octoberfest and use LME this time. Maybe next time I'll experiment with DME and/or that Crystal stuff all you fancy beer brewers talk about. ;)

Time to go the LHBS!!!!!!!!!!! :D

E
 
Anyone know how long a Mr. Beer can will keep for? I bought several recipes to try originally when I bought mine from woot! last year. I am now home brewing, and never got around to using my last one. I had been saving it in case I had family who wanted to give home brewing a shot, but at this point nobody is interested, and I would rather use it than letting it expire.
 
somecallmetex said:
Anyone know how long a Mr. Beer can will keep for? I bought several recipes to try originally when I bought mine from woot! last year. I am now home brewing, and never got around to using my last one. I had been saving it in case I had family who wanted to give home brewing a shot, but at this point nobody is interested, and I would rather use it than letting it expire.
Click to expand...

if you would like to pass it along my way, I'd be interested. :D ....

As long as the temperature didn't get too high, you'll be ok with the extract and booster You should get new yeast though.

E
 
Ok, I swear I have read all 203 pages of this thread and I still need help!!
Two things - I have WCPA bottled (warm conditioning) right now and I am at the 2 week mark tomorrow. What should I do now? Refrigerate it for another week?
Also, I have Oktoberfest in the keg fermenting now, also at the 2 week mark, but what should I do with that now? Bottle it now? wait another week? And when I do bottle it, I have read over and over not to use regular sugar, but what specifically should I use? (got a link?)

THANKS!
Signed,
Thank goodness for the liquor store while I am stumbling through this home brewing thing in MN
 
1. Are the bottles hard? (assuming you are using the 1-liter PET bottles) If they are, stick one or two in the fridge for a week. Then see what you have. (I usually wait 3 weeks then refrigerate for a day or so... but some don't subscribe to that philosophy).

2. Two weeks is probably okay to bottle, but again, I keep mine in the fermenter for 3 to 4 weeks. More is better. (again some don't agree with that philosophy).

3. What IS regular sugar? Table sugar? I mostly use table sugar for priming. MUCH cheaper, and easier to find. I've read all the 'theoretical' differences between table and corn sugar, but from practical experience, there is no discernible difference. Use what you have, and you'll be okay.
 
Thanks Jollytim! I was thinking of doing the '2 weeks warm conditioning followed by 1 week in the fridge', so thanks for reinforcing.
Yes, they are the 1 ltr PET bottles.
As for the Oktoberfest, I don't have a choice (at this point at least) but to leave it in the fermenter for a while longer - I don't have any more bottles!! hehehe! Happy accident, I guess.
And yes, table sugar. Where does one find Corn Sugar?

Thanks again!
 
DaleKOB said:
Thanks Jollytim! I was thinking of doing the '2 weeks warm conditioning followed by 1 week in the fridge', so thanks for reinforcing.
Yes, they are the 1 ltr PET bottles.
As for the Oktoberfest, I don't have a choice (at this point at least) but to leave it in the fermenter for a while longer - I don't have any more bottles!! hehehe! Happy accident, I guess.
And yes, table sugar. Where does one find Corn Sugar?

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Yes...what jollytim said! I use table sugar regularly to prime. There isn't enough sugar to make any off flavors that my taste buds can tell. Don't use table sugar for your primary fermentation because would be enough to change the flavor. You can get corn sugar (dextrose) from any homebrew supply store (order online if you can't find one locally). It's usually pretty inexpensive.
 
Hello all,

New to brewing, figured I would try out a Mr. Beer kit before I screwed up a 5 gallon batch, haha.

Anyway, its been sitting in the fermenter for a day or two. Looking forward to bottling. I am using 15.9/16 oz brown glass Grolsch bottles. Anything special I should do (ie. not using bottle caps), as these are the ceramic bottle toppers with the rubber gaskets (gaskets are new, I should add)? Any sanitizing tips are appreciated as well.

Thanks
-DC
 
theshoe82 said:
Hello all,

New to brewing, figured I would try out a Mr. Beer kit before I screwed up a 5 gallon batch, haha.

Anyway, its been sitting in the fermenter for a day or two. Looking forward to bottling. I am using 15.9/16 oz brown glass Grolsch bottles. Anything special I should do (ie. not using bottle caps), as these are the ceramic bottle toppers with the rubber gaskets (gaskets are new, I should add)? Any sanitizing tips are appreciated as well.

Thanks
-DC
Click to expand...

Honestly for the cost, a 5 gallon batch is about the same price as a Mr Beer batch when you buy those Mr Beer kits :)
 
theshoe82 said:
Hello all,

New to brewing, figured I would try out a Mr. Beer kit before I screwed up a 5 gallon batch, haha.
Click to expand...

Screw-ups are valuable! The only way to learn is to do, and when you do, you will do it wrong. Embrace your screw-ups, because you are that much closer to making beer to be proud of. :)

Anyway, its been sitting in the fermenter for a day or two.
Click to expand...

What temperature is the fermentor at? Is it in a cool spot? You'll want to keep the temperatures down below 70F (and remember, fermentation can raise the internal temp 5F hotter than ambient temp), so that you can reduce the production of chemical "side products". You want pure ethanol production by the yeast and no side product off-flavors, if possible. :)

Looking forward to bottling. I am using 15.9/16 oz brown glass Grolsch bottles. Anything special I should do (ie. not using bottle caps), as these are the ceramic bottle toppers with the rubber gaskets (gaskets are new, I should add)?
Click to expand...

Those bottles are (often) really good for bottling. After the beer is bottled, put it inside a box, away from light, and at room temperature for a couple of weeks. If you taste it early, don't judge the whole batch by those first few. Also, to put your beer at it's best, leave any bottle you want to drink in the fridge for a week or two (a day or two is the minimum).

Why put the beer in the box? If you add too much sugar to your beer, or if it wasn't done fermenting, it can explode. Oops. Better cardboard than the flesh of your body, I always say! (Some people put the fermenting beer inside a box inside a garbage bag, to catch the beer liquid in case of bottle bombs -- I split the difference and just keep it in a big ole Rubbermaid(tm) tub.) Bottle bombs are very rare, but they do happen, and an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. :)

Any sanitizing tips are appreciated as well.
Click to expand...

There are many ways to sanitize bottles, but considering your rubber seals, I would NOT do the oven version. :cross:
 
Justibone said:
Screw-ups are valuable! The only way to learn is to do, and when you do, you will do it wrong. Embrace your screw-ups, because you are that much closer to making beer to be proud of. :)



What temperature is the fermentor at? Is it in a cool spot? You'll want to keep the temperatures down below 70F (and remember, fermentation can raise the internal temp 5F hotter than ambient temp), so that you can reduce the production of chemical "side products". You want pure ethanol production by the yeast and no side product off-flavors, if possible. :)



Those bottles are (often) really good for bottling. After the beer is bottled, put it inside a box, away from light, and at room temperature for a couple of weeks. If you taste it early, don't judge the whole batch by those first few. Also, to put your beer at it's best, leave any bottle you want to drink in the fridge for a week or two (a day or two is the minimum).

Why put the beer in the box? If you add too much sugar to your beer, or if it wasn't done fermenting, it can explode. Oops. Better cardboard than the flesh of your body, I always say! (Some people put the fermenting beer inside a box inside a garbage bag, to catch the beer liquid in case of bottle bombs -- I split the difference and just keep it in a big ole Rubbermaid(tm) tub.) Bottle bombs are very rare, but they do happen, and an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. :)



There are many ways to sanitize bottles, but considering your rubber seals, I would NOT do the oven version. :cross:
Click to expand...


Thanks for the replies and the advice! Much appreciated. Will keep you posted as to how it goes.
 
Before I figured out real beer wasn't some ice cold, urine colored drink to chug after weed whacking, I moved up to adult beer. I quickly found out I got what I paid for, meaning it was expensive. The greatest expense incurred was for gasoline when I'd have to go across the state line for some of the "good stuff." Without much grief, my wife agreed to let me do something in her kitchen without her IN the kitchen. Good for me that I didn't begin with Mr. Beer when I started home brewing. For my 50th birthday my Wife and Mom got me a full size kit from mail order. I keep a sign in the kitchen that reads, "Zymurgism in progress" so my friends can ask what that means then I pop a top and let them get 'em some. Some are Budweiser, some are Brew-wisers.
 
Well that's just snobbery. There is nothing wrong with Mr. Beer (outside their abhorrent instructions). And the Mr. Beer route has brought many a newcomer into the world of home brewing.

I still use the fementor (several of them, in fact) as it is a great little fermentor. Mind you that I started a couple decades ago, long before Mr. Beer, but I find the fermentor to be quite to my liking.

Don't knock what 'brung' ya here. If you came a different route, then good for you. But many came the Mr. Beer route, and all that matters is that they are here now.

Stop the snobbery. :)
 
Today on sellout.woot.com the Mr. Beer premium kit with bottles and wcpa kit etc. is 19.99 plus 5 bucks shipping. Ive been looking for a good deal on a Mr. Beer and figured I'd pass this along. Cheapest I've seen it elsewhere is 35 bucks on amazon.

I am in no way affiliated with woot Its just a deal site I look at everyday and saw this deal today.:rockin:
 
Quick question. I know many say to leave your beer in the fermenter for as long as possible to create the highest quality beer...does that hold true with Mr. Beer as well? I have Weizenbier in the fermenter right now. Today is the 16th day. Can I go ahead and bottle it up or should I wait a bit longer?
 
Kegstand said:
Quick question. I know many say to leave your beer in the fermenter for as long as possible to create the highest quality beer...does that hold true with Mr. Beer as well? I have Weizenbier in the fermenter right now. Today is the 16th day. Can I go ahead and bottle it up or should I wait a bit longer?
Click to expand...

One would argue that doing that would make for an even better mr beer beer. But truly it doesn't matter whether it's a mr beer kit, or any beer recipes...beer is beer...it is all made of grain, hops, yeast and water regardless of whether it is fermented in a brown keg, from a little can, or in a 15barrel commercial fermenter in a brewery. It is all the same.
 
I tasted it...doesn't seem sweet at all. I might give it another week just to be safe...but damn, I really want to bottle it up right now! lol
 

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